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Recently replaced chain, have the correct length, everything is clean. My chain is skipping on the rear cassette while under torque. Is this an adjustment issue?
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I am no expert but have fixed up my bikes several times and it sounds like either the tension in the derailleur cable isn’t right or there is a small problem with one of the limit screws. Make sure the derailleur lines the chain up right on the gear for each of the limit screws and that there is enough tension in the cable for an immediate shift. slack can cause ghost shifting under torque. and if you said the chain is the right size (check the width too) then I can’t think of anything else it would be.
hope that helps. 💡
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first check your chain for stiff links and check your cogs for worn or bent teeth. 9 times out of 10 that’s the culprit when I am having this issue. next make sure the derailleur is lining up correctly with each gear. I find this is easier to do with the chain off.
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Sounds like cassette time. 😄 Later,
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"crash1" wrote
Recently replaced chain, have the correct length, everything is clean. My chain is skipping on the rear cassette while under torque. Is this an adjustment issue?
I hate to say it (because I’ve been here many times), but you may need a new casette. If your old chain had stretched too much, it’s probably worn the teeth on your casette down so that the new chain isn’t jiving with them properly. About 90% of the times I buy a new chain I usually have to buy a new casette.
Check the teeth to see if they are square on the top and to see if there’s a symmetrical u shape between them. If they look pointed on top and the u is elongated, that’s a definite sign of serious wear.
When in doubt, visit an LBS
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Many riders don’t monitor chain wear, As mtbgreg1 said running a worn chain kills the cassette. A worn chain changes the pitch of the chain and wears out the top of the cassette teeth causing the chain to skip. It’s sorta like a worn tire with worn knobs don’t grip as well. I use a Rohloff Caliper 2. It is a flat piece of steel that is cut out to fit in your chain to show chain wear. One side 0,0075mm and as long as it doesn’t lay flat the chain is good. If the 0,1mm side drops in the chain the chain and cassette need replacing. Look at http://www.rohloff.com and check it out. I got into chain wear when I wore out a XTR cassette. Another thing many riders do is over lube their chain. Too much chain lube attracts dirt that acts like sand paper on the chain and cogs. If you can rub your chain with a finger and see minor lube on the finger you’re good to go. Too much bike washing helps to lead to over oiling. Wash it if muddy but don’t wash it because of trail dust. 😄 Later,
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I had this issue last year when I replace my chain only, cause I thought my cassette was new enough. Rode new cassette just long enough with old chain that they made a pattern. Had to put on new cassette again.
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I would have to say +1 on the cassette…Usually the cassette and chain should be changed at the same time to prevent skipping…The chain rings too should get attention. Look at the shift pins and ramps for wear. Fancy rings That have machined ramps should be inspected for cracking too.
Cheers
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I guess I get 2-3 chains per cassette by replacing my chains before they are toast. Maybe it is the result of being so anal and measuring each ride. I’ve gone as far as 4 chains on an XTR cassette once I stopped over oiling and washing too much. I’m switching from XTR to XT for replacing cassettes because the steel XT gogs will last longer than the alloy XTR and $70.00 is easier to caugh up than $250.00. The weight difference is minor and is off set by the cost. Anal is as anal does I suppose. 😄 Later,
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"fat_billy" wrote
I guess I get 2-3 chains per cassette by replacing my chains before they are toast. Maybe it is the result of being so anal and measuring each ride. I’ve gone as far as 4 chains on an XTR cassette once I stopped over oiling and washing too much. I’m switching from XTR to XT for replacing cassettes because the steel XT gogs will last longer than the alloy XTR and $70.00 is easier to caugh up than $250.00. The weight difference is minor and is off set by the cost. Anal is as anal does I suppose. 😄 Later,
Wow 70 vs 250… that’s insane!
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I agree mtbgreg1 it’s insane. Retail xt is $99.00 and is on line @ Performance @ $79.00. Retail on xtr is $289.00 and $229.00 on same site. Performance will match on line prices in the store if they have the part and if you ship it to the store it’s free. My LBS will match Performance price. The xtr weighs 81 grams less than the xt so it is $53.00 an ounce. Spend the money you save and buy lighter tires and the weight savings is better it the rim than the hub. Good luck on the race Goo! 😄 Later,
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"fat_billy" wrote
I agree mtbgreg1 it’s insane. Retail xt is $99.00 and is on line @ Performance @ $79.00. Retail on xtr is $289.00 and $229.00 on same site. Performance will match on line prices in the store if they have the part and if you ship it to the store it’s free. My LBS will match Performance price. The xtr weighs 81 grams less than the xt so it is $53.00 an ounce. Spend the money you save and buy lighter tires and the weight savings is better it the rim than the hub. Good luck on the race Goo! 😄 Later,
Thanks man! Trying to get all the mechanical quirks ironed out of my ride before race day… almost perfect, but not quite 😕
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FYI I’ve recently seen the top of the line SRAM 9spd cassette on Chainlove for $50.
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I ran into a similar problem on my road bike last year — although it skipped mostly under moderate power, and always where the master link passed over the cassette. I was gonna pitch the master but my brother-in-law thought that my chain was too long. Took out two links and it works fine since.
But if the cassette is very old, there is a very good chance it is worn and causing, or at least contributing to, the problem. In my case, I knew that the cassette was quite new, so assumed that was not the problem.
It is way past time to replace my mountain bike chain, and I will replace the cassette at the same time. Since I ride my mtn bike on the road in winter when there is snow on the ground, I will try wait until spring so as not to subject my brand new chain and cassette to all that salt and crap they put on the roads here in Utah winters!
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I have found that when the chain is replaced the cassette needs to be replaces as well.This is due to both the chain and cassette wearing at the same rate.
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first check for chain kinks. just freewheel the pedals backwards and watch the rear derailleur- see if the cage hiccups from a frozen link. easy fix.
as everyone said, check the chain- past a certain point and it will damage the cassette. i get several chains per cassette. performance has a cheap measuring tool, or you can measure it with a ruler too- google for chain length per x links. i don’t remember. the tool is easier.
another, easy fix is the possibility that your sis or derailleur pull is off, possibly from cable stretch/slippage. also make sure your cable isn’t frayed. if the rear d is set up properly at limits, check the sis setting. shimano has the methodology for set-up for rear d and sis on their web site. pretty simple and quick. sometimes the sis can work without load then slip with load. twist the adjuster to see if it gets better or worse and repeat.
if all else fails, shuttle.
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It only happens to me when I’m in second and under torque. Doesn’t do it in any other gear.
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Replace the cassette.
Most likely those are the gears that take the most abuse due to climbing in them.
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Use the Park Tool CC-3 tool.
1. If it doesn’t fit in the roller gap…Your chain is good.
2. If it fits in at .75 but not 1.0…You need a new chain.
3. If it fits in at 1.0…You need a new chain and cassette.
It’s simple and it works!
😃
John -
Something that hasn’t been mentioned: remove your rear wheel and grab the cassette and see how much it wobbles. If it has an abnormal amount of wobble, the free hub body needs to be tightened.
Usually if it is loose, you will notice more skipping than just one gear…but it’s something to look at.
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