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Posts
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Those are the little wheels that look like chain tensioners right? are these a really good thing to have and do you need certain mounts on ur frames to get them?
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can it be used on a non single speed? and are they really worth having?
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Actually there are lots of dual ring guides. I have been running Blackspire’s dual ring guides for about 4 years.
Unless you are dropping your chain a lot, you don’t need it. If you are dropping your chain the first thing I would check is that your bike is tuned correctly. Changers front and rear, chain length and perhaps even chain line. You might also be getting your chain "cross." Mainly, in the littlest ring and littlest cog on your cassette. If those don’t fix it, on your bike, I would go with a three ring guide. The Heim 3-Guide is the only one I can find quickly, but if you search google long enough you might find more.
Generally chain drops occur on full squish rigs. Few rear suspension designs move concentric to the chain rings. Thus, as you cycle through your travel, the distance from your rear cassette to your cranks grows and shrinks. When this distance gets to short it’s like riding with to many links in your chain and that makes it easy for your chain to pop off.
I have Transition Vargrant hardtail without a chain guide. I ride it on most my favorite nasty descents and have never dropped the chain. Again, I’d be surprised if you need one and I would check my bike over before I shelled out any dough for one.
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well go on a kick to blow money on my bike and wqas going to get a new derailer for the rear but the one i wabted wouldent work so we took a look closer and noticed my crank set was bent and thats why i was having shift problems so i replaced them but now when i stand up and really pedal hard it starts gettin funky (i wanna say it feels like i break a tooth off the cog or something) i havent seen any damage but it throws my blalance off and has me sketched to pedal hard… any tips on that
btw yeah i dont need that part for my bike just saw it and thought car belt tensioner and tighter belt better performance and im not trying to get a new bike honestly im so used to mine and its still strong. plus i rode a fs bike around all day yesterday and just for freeriding i hated it i like my hardtail but it was nice on the trail
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Check all the teeth on your front cog rings first. You may have broken a tooth and that’s why it’s slipping. Note: If you are running a Shimano crankset, don’t confuse a short tooth they incorporate for shifting purposes for an actual broken tooth. If the short tooth follows in a pattern (ie: long, long, long, short)it’s not a broken tooth.
If you have no broken teeth I would think it is a chain line issue or maybe your front derailleur is pressing up against the chain causing it to shift when you torque it hard.
Does it happen no matter what gear you are in up front? How about when you change to another gear in the rear?
Sometimes having the chainline crossed up too far will make it hard to smoothly pedal. The little cog up front should use the big gears in the rear. If you have a nine speed cog set in the rear, just use the seven largest gears. The middle cog up front should use the middle 7 in the rear. The big cog up front should use the smallest 7 in the rear.
See if either of those help the issue and get back with us.
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i hardly shift outa middle cog in front and its a 8 gear i run about 4-7 and its just when im really cranking down and pedaling hard when it will pop or jerk free for a second and it just throws my balance off so bad that if i did that on a ramp to a jump id die lol
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There is a new bash guard called the turbocharger from e13 that I will be writing about which may be of interest. As well as they also offering the turbocharger along with the chainguide and tensioner…Psssst Hey Goose may be something you want check out e13’s website.
Cheers
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"NismoFreak69" wrote
i hardly shift outa middle cog in front and its a 8 gear i run about 4-7 and its just when im really cranking down and pedaling hard when it will pop or jerk free for a second and it just throws my balance off so bad that if i did that on a ramp to a jump id die lol
If you already checked your cassette and front cogs for broken teeth, I would then check for a stiff chain link or multiple stiff links. A stiff link can cause the bike to "slip" while under load as well. An easy check for this is to pedal your bike backwards and see if all the chain links fall into place properly. Normally a stiff link will stay bent and be pretty obvious. You can check by hand as well. Stiff links will need to be loosened. They will need to be replaced if damage is the cause of the stiffness. Check the pins for damage and make sure the chain is not pulling apart at the plates.
If you find a stiff link you can try to manually loosen it by holding the chain in your hand and bending against the links with a LITTLE bit of pressure. Chain links are only supposed to bend up and down but you will be putting lateral pressure on the link to loosen it ever so slightly.
A stretched chain can also cause a similar problem but I believe I remember you saying that the bike is pretty new. If you are a Clydesdale and mash a lot when pedaling there IS a chance that you may have stretched the chain already but probably not likely. You can buy a chain wear indicator or just measure it with a ruler (exactly 1 inch from pin front to pin front).
Another thing you may want to check is the torque of your cassette ring. A loose cassette could cause the slip you are talking about as well. You’ll need a torque wrench and a cassette removal tool to check this though. IF you don’t have them already, it might be the time to take it to a bike shop unless you want to buy some tools. The cassette remover is cheap but a torque wrench will run you about $50-$200 depending on how nice you go.
Check that stuff out and see if it helps. There are other possibilities that it could be but they are not as likely with a newer bike so I won’t mention them for now. Let us know how it goes.
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