Brakes – BB7’s


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    • #76701

      These seem to be gaining popularity very fast, we have several reviews of them here on singletracks- … 7/783.html
      but Id like to ask here if anyone has had trouble with these? or any reason not to consider them over traditional hydraulic disc brakes?

      In a local forum here there has been a momentum to switch to these mechanical brakes because of hydraulic fluid acting differently while riding in the extreme cold temps here(when it is cold).

    • #76702

      I have ridden, but not owned a bike with hydraulic brakes. I do have a 29er with BB7’s, a full suspension 26er that I recently converted to disc (BB7’s), and a 26 hardtail that is in the process of the conversion to disc/BB7’s. Yeah, there is a trend there. I don’t really have enough experience to compare them, but hydraulics seemed to offer more instant stopping power, and for my XC riding is seemed easier to go the BB7 route.

      I think the BB7’s are great. I have never had any issues with either bike that has them now. I just recently rode in a wet/snowy environment and the full suspension with BB7’s performed great. I haven’t gotten to the stage of pad replacement, so moderate usage so far, but I like them.

    • #76703

      Hydraulic brake fluid when freshly installed in a bike should be good in extreme cold weather. If there is any issues that is because the oil has been in there to long.

      Using fresh DOT 4 or even better is the DOT 5.1 which is compatible in every way with DOT 4 flows at extreme cold. In fact it was developed firstly for European vehicles with ABS… Anyhow the new DOT 5.1 flows twice as quickly as the DOT 4 and has a higher wet boiling point compared to the DOT 4 as well as it flows at lower temperatures.

      Maybe….Just maybe some of the folks out there should do a brake flush in there braking systems and they will see a dramatic difference in the braking performance as well as the increase in modulation.

      Besides with the better braking systems out there you get two or four pistons pushing both brake pads instead of only one, while the other side has to be adjusted often and don’t forget the cable stretch as well as the contamination of the snow, mud that will get into the brake cable and caliper arm pivot.

      Hope this helps your decision making.

    • #76704

      I forgot to add this.

      As far as mechanical brakes these do work very well and the Tri-align system is needed for mechanical brakes, also these work much better than other brands out there like Tectro or shimano mechanicals. If your getting these take a look at the Avid speed dial 7 or ultimate they compliment the brakes nicely also check out a set of decent cables that are sealed like the flak jackets also from Avid or Jagwires sets. These will aid the life of the brakes by keeping most contamination out of the housing.

    • #76705

      I agree with you %100 about the cables, after the extremely wet summer we had last year I am leaning towards sealing all my shift cables also.

      As for all that other stuff I think I will trust the findings of people out here in the real world doing it over those in a laboratory testing it somewhere. That’s kind of why I posted the question here to begin with.

    • #76706

      I did alot of that testing with brake fluids.

    • #76707

      Just to add my $.02, I’ve been running BB7s for years and love them. The simple design and easy adjustments mean I rarely have to mess with them. Brake pad rubbing? A twist on the adjuster knobs and the problem is taken care of. Pads a bit worn? A twist on the adjuster knobs and the brake lever feel is back where I like it. I’ve done lots of long downhills (thousands of vertical feet) and had consistent braking the whole way down and could do two-finger braking the whole way. The pads wear well; I can usually get a few thousand miles out of a set. Top that off with a great price and I just don’t see any reason to make my life any more complicated.

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