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Not sure if I’m too new or just stupid, but can’t seem to feel my bike the way some of you describe. The way your tires roll, stem length effects, crank length, bar width, etc.. Read articles here on ST and don’t notice any of these things when I ride. Haven’t notice my tires sticking to the ground and slowing me down, can’t tell if a shorter stem or longer bars would help, wheels/rims, like the idea of shorter cranks- but can’t even imagine how this would efect the ride. Many other upgrades have been discussed that I’m not sure how you even feel the difference. Own a Remedy 8 and it is pretty well equipt, but can’t imagine it’s perfect 😆 Do you need to try out these changes side by side to notice the difference? If so, where do you get this opportunity? Going to make some upgrades this year or upgrade the bike as a whole. Dropper post, get rid of my Alixir brakes, up grade front derailer from SLX to XT, better tires and maybe wheels, carbon frame if I upgrade into a new bike. I love my bike and it seems to ride nearly perfect, but that could be because I’ve never ridden anything else except a $200 used bike I bought on craigslist, that struggled to shift gears. Figure the better understanding of these things will help my riding and enjoy just knowing what’s what. How do I learn these things???
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Only by trying many bikes. Borrow someones on the trail for a section, then try another. Go to bike shops and demo all you have time for.
I got seriously lucky in getting hired for a week to demo 4-5 bikes a day for Outside Magazine, trying all kinds of mountain bikes. After the tests even have more appreciation for my Turner. Only the Trek 9.9 outperformed my bike by a lot but it’s not a fair test till I put $4000 more into the build like the Trek to lighten my bike. Cannondale Scalpel was 2 pounds lighter but handled a little worse. I have found that 96ers are really fun to ride, $5000 Moots Gristle. Climbed great and accelerated fast.
29ers are faster. -
It’s all a matter of time and experience. The more bikes you ride and the more pieces of gear you use, the more you’ll be able to sense these minute differences. To be honest, being able to pick up slight differences between certain components, products, or bikes can be pretty tough to do, which is why some of these magazine editors who have been in the business for a couple of decades can really break down a bike or a component’s performance in detail, while some one who has just started riding cannot.
While I’d say there is something to be said for test riding bikes when buying, IMO newbies to the sport should spend more time reading reviews written by professionals who have been riding bikes for years and, based on those knowledgeable reviews, figure out what kind of bike they need for their intended application. How is someone who’s only ever ridden one or two mountain bikes (or maybe none) really know what’s going on when they hop on a bike for a test ride?
However, if you’re a seasoned veteran and have ridden dozens of different bikes, if you’re shopping around for a new one of course you should do a bunch of test riding!
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"Gdb49" wrote
If so, where do you get this opportunity?
Go to the different local bike shops and find out when the bike brands will be doing demo days at local trails.
To really get a feel for a lot of bikes in a short period of time, consider going to Outerbike in Moab in October. The sign-ups for 2013 just opened. For $167 you can demo as many bikes as you can throw a leg over, and by the end of the first day, I guarantee you will start to be able to feel the subtle differences.
front derailer from SLX to XTOf all the upgrades you mentioned, this is the least impactful. Front derailleurs are almost impossible to tell apart, and the SLX and XT are so close as to not even bother. The rear derailleur or perhaps shifters would be more noticeable.
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"maddslacker" wrotefront derailer from SLX to XT
Of all the upgrades you mentioned, this is the least impactful. Front derailleurs are almost impossible to tell apart, and the SLX and XT are so close as to not even bother. The rear derailleur or perhaps shifters would be more noticeable.
Totally agree with this.
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The dropper post might be the best/most noticeable upgrade, followed by the wheels and tires, but they would be fairly costly. Not that a dropper post is cheap.
Like Maddslacker said, I wouldn’t upgrade the front derailleur.
Along with asking about demo days at your LBS, ask about group ride days. You’ll be able to see a lot of different bikes and speak with their owners. You might even get a chance to test ride them. (the bikes!)If you’re more vertically challenged than most, shorter cranks might help otherwise I’d stick with what you have.
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Thanks, great advice above- all of it. Moab in October sounds like a great idea, with or without Outterbike. I will sign up for it, seems like a great learning opportunity. Figured the the front derailer was low on the list, absolutely a dropper post. Need to learn more about wheels and tires.
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What about grips?
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I personally think the best place to start with upgrades are your contact points. Saddles, grips, bars, and pedals basically anywhere that your body makes physical contact with the bike. If you’re comfortable on bike then you will want to ride more.
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Grips are another very subjective item.
A lot of people love ergon grips, the ones with the palm rest. I used them for a while, but I don’t any more. Currently I really like my Giant OEM ones.
Several pros I know use foam grips, and I have tried them, they’re pretty nice.
Whatever you use, just make sure they are lock-on.
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Man, where else can you go to get a dozen different (free) opinions on gear by guys who have actual tried the equipment. All in a matter of hours! Thanks to all who responded.
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Definately THIS:
"slipfinger" wroteI personally think the best place to start with upgrades are your contact points. Saddles, grips, bars, and pedals basically anywhere that your body makes physical contact with the bike. If you’re comfortable on bike then you will want to ride more.
There are some simple easy and inexpensive things even the most inexperienced rider can (and probably should) change and notice a definate difference almost right away.
– Try a differant length stem. Get a shorter stem and then hit a big climb, you will most likely notice that yer front weel lifts off the ground at the most inopertune times, where as the longer stem will keep yer front wheel on the ground more consistanlty.
– Try a differant saddle. Saddles can be so way differant for every person.
– Try narrower or wider handlebars. You will most likely notice a difference in your climbing abilities and stability.
– TIRES! Differant treads will feel differently on the same trail. A pair of Michelin Dry’s VS Kenda Nevegals will feel WAY differant on the same trail. Tires can make a huge differance on ride.These are just a few examples of inexpensive changes changes that you could make to your ride and feel an instant noticable differance.
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You said that you like your bike and how it handles. So why do you want to do changes? Remedy 8 comes with 3×10 drivetrain. Replace big ring with bash guard for better clearance, install dropper post and just ride it until something will brake. Then you will be on the market for something else. Even stock Bontrager tires provide great traction at the right pressure. You’ve got an excellent bike, now is time to use it.
The most important – is skills and experience.
Happy riding
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"stumpyfsr" wrote
You said that you like your bike and how it handles. So why do you want to do changes? Remedy 8 comes with 3×10 drivetrain. Replace big ring with bash guard for better clearance, install dropper post and just ride it until something will brake. Then you will be on the market for something else. Even stock Bontrager tires provide great traction at the right pressure. You’ve got an excellent bike, now is time to use it.
The most important – is skills and experience.
Happy ridingYou are absolutely right, but for some crazy reason I just want to upgrade. With my limited time in this sport, it is hard to imagine it could get better, the bike seems perfect. Lucky first purchase? My large ring has become my bash guard 😆 Dropper post will be my first upgrade. Seems like fun to mess with the bike and a chance to learn.
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that looks like a pretty sweet ride.
your changes might depend on what your riding centers around.
me, i like a short stem and wide bars, but i also hate climbing, fwiw. from the trek website i couldn’t tell what the stem length and bar widths are. this can impact you descending (shorter/wider- less nervous at speed) or climbing (too short/wide and more nervous front wheel).
dropper can make a big diff if you use it a lot. i had one, loved it, it broke and now i don’t miss it. i’m usually doubled over at the top of any climb anyway. plenty of time to drop the seat. so it really depends on the riding you do, and the terrain changes.
tires also depend upon your riding and terrain.
as said, swapping out your drivetrain bits and pieces will do little for you. slx is good stuff, and an xt rd, no worries mate. going with a bashguard is a good idea (unless you’re an xc guy in the large ring a lot). if so, you might want to consider swapping your middle chainring to a larger one to split the difference, so to speak. also, if you do go to a dlbe ring and add a larger chainring that the previous middle ring, you may want the center your chain line as it’s different from a dble than a triple. just adding a spacer on the drive side will usually do it.
just have fun. i have an old bike i constantly think of upgrading. once i’m on the trail i don’t even consider it (although i do wish she would lose some weight……….)
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"Gdb49" wrote
[quote="stumpyfsr":x8rytn8a]You said that you like your bike and how it handles. So why do you want to do changes? Remedy 8 comes with 3×10 drivetrain. Replace big ring with bash guard for better clearance, install dropper post and just ride it until something will brake. Then you will be on the market for something else. Even stock Bontrager tires provide great traction at the right pressure. You’ve got an excellent bike, now is time to use it.
The most important – is skills and experience.
Happy ridingYou are absolutely right, but for some crazy reason I just want to upgrade. With my limited time in this sport, it is hard to imagine it could get better, the bike seems perfect. Lucky first purchase? My large ring has become my bash guard 😆 Dropper post will be my first upgrade. Seems like fun to mess with the bike and a chance to learn.[/quote:x8rytn8a]
I see. When I bought my full-suspension 29er, I thought I’ve got a do-it-all bike. Then I’ve looked around and now I have titanium HT and snow-bike in addition to my first one. And now it’s like choosing which of your kids you take to circus. Every bike has its pro’s and cons, but if I’ll have to have only one bike, that will be my Stumpjumper FSR 29er.
Note, now I’m riding Pugsley because It’s fun no matter snow or dry
JSatch made a good point. You can change/upgrade some parts up to your personal preferences.
Looks like AM and Trail bikes will suit best for do-it-all purpose. -
"stumpyfsr" wrote
You said that you like your bike and how it handles. So why do you want to do changes? Remedy 8 comes with 3×10 drivetrain. Replace big ring with bash guard for better clearance, install dropper post and just ride it until something will brake. Then you will be on the market for something else. Even stock Bontrager tires provide great traction at the right pressure. You’ve got an excellent bike, now is time to use it.
The most important – is skills and experience.
Happy ridingI have to agree with Stumpy, ride it until something breaks, then look to make a change. In the meantime, work towards increasing your skills, which will let you know the difference a new part makes.
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just looking at the trek site again, that’s a really nice bike. it’s not just a little starter model.
lots of good suggestions by everyone as how to fine tune it to your style of riding, type of terrain you ride, etc.
i have a friend who got a trek, a slash or something. he came from a giant reign-x and loves it. it’s only got a single ring up front, so not sure if it’s the slash (last years model). they definitely make nice bikes.
anyway, you’ll have plenty of time to get itchy for an upgrade when your skills and passion move on. maybe they will move you to a carbon xc machine, or a downhill bomber. or both. but for riding singletrack, it’s a keeper.
anyway, just have fun and good luck with the tweaking. check friends bikes, different tires, tire pressures, wider bars/shorter stem, tweaking the suspension, etc. hope the suggestions were useful.
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One of the cheapest and most effective upgrades is to get rid of your tubes, if you haven;t already, and go tubeless.
Lighter where it counts most (rotating mass at the circumference), better puncture protection, and improved grip. You can run lower pressures without pinch-flatting.
I’ve been running tubeless for 5 years now and I wouldn’t use anything else on my mtb.
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Great point Trailgumby! Not only do you lose wheel weight (great on mtbikes with the frequent accelerations), but also you gain the benefits of puncture resistance and being able to run at lower air pressure (more traction). Plus converting to tubeless doesn’t mean you have to buy new wheels and tires. Stan’s Notube does a great job! You can do both wheels for about $70.
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What about a carbon frame, guy at my LBS said it was not a good idea for me because I crash so much. Is this an issue for carbon frames? I like to push my limits and would probably quit riding before I’d stop crashing, so this is likely to be a long standing problem. Went tubeless already.
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