Avid Juicy 3’s

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    • #107420

      Hi all,

      Stripped down my Juicy 3’s as I had sticky pistons, and replaced the front seals (not the rears as yet but I will be doing soon). Now I’ve bled them according to Avid’s instructions using thier kit and that failed (on three attempts). But a chap at work worked his magic and bled them within a matter of a 1 min had both sets back working. They worked fine on the trail, but the only problem is that I feel now that the travel on the levers is too far, and I like my brakes pretty sharp. Do the Juicy’s have a long travel or is that due to the bleed process?

      In addition to this I’ve found that my discs are a little askew and catch slightly on the pads, but I put that down to the fact the dics have long and not very many spokes leading out to the braking surface. Again is that a normal fact of living with Juicys?

      Cheers,

      Mark

    • #107421

      I’m afraid I’m inexpert at this and Don’t know the Juicys specifically at all. Hopefully we’ll get more/better input. 😀 I think the 2 things may be related. If there’s run-out in the disk it would effectively hold the disks apart till you squeeze making for longer travel. You should first check that the wheel is installed w/ drop out firmly on the hub. Also see check the disk trueness as best you can. You may also be able to realign the calipers, loosen the calipers from fork just a little and turn the wheel slowly and see if you can get it snugged down in good alignment with the disk, so it moves smoothly between.
      I’m not sure how much run out is too much.

    • #107422

      Sounds like the disk just needs truing. Can be done with a special tool, or the fix anything tool called a crescent wrench. Use only enough force to get the job done.

    • #107423

      Sorry, drop out on the hub? Excuse my ignorance!

    • #107424

      Slots the wheel axle fits into.

    • #107425

      Your rotors need truing (buy a rotor truing tool or use a de-greased crescent wrench) and you need to decrease your pad travel. You can do that by pulling both wheels out and slowly pulling the lever to the bar while watching your pads to ensure that they don’t get to close to each other. If the do, use a sparkly clean flat head screwdriver or cone-wrench to gently pry them apart. When I’m finished bleeding brakes my goal is to have 1/4 inch of pull to contact, then 1/6 of modulation in that brake.

    • #107426
      "jeremiahbwhite" wrote

      Your rotors need truing (buy a rotor truing tool or use a de-greased crescent wrench) and you need to decrease your pad travel. You can do that by pulling both wheels out and slowly pulling the lever to the bar while watching your pads to ensure that they don’t get to close to each other. If the do, use a sparkly clean flat head screwdriver or cone-wrench to gently pry them apart. When I’m finished bleeding brakes my goal is to have 1/4 inch of pull to contact, then 1/6 of modulation in that brake.

      Jeremiah, could you please explain the goal to "slowly pulling the lever" portion of your post? Is it to get rid of some of the dead pull in brake? In the past, I’ve always opened the calipers as far as possible and I’ve often ended up with too much pull before contact. It seems to me that this might resolve that issue.

    • #107427

      You got it. Before Bleeding push the calipers all the way out, then pump the lever to center the pads. Pulling the wheel out and pulling slowly on the lever will allow you to get a much better feel.

    • #107428

      Thanks a bunch. I’m looking forward to the next piston cleaning and brake pad change now 😀

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