29’er Spooked Spokes ??

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    • #122080

      I am going on my second season with a 29’er hardtail. I’ve just recently snapped a fourth spoke on my rear wheel. After the first two incidents, I thought maybe I hit something or maybe it is just coincidence that I’ve broken 2 in a single season…Now with 4 broken spokes in two seasons, I am starting to wonder if it is a "coincidence"….I can not ever recalling breaking that many spokes in such a short span of time in all my years riding a 26’er hardtail.

      Just curious is anyone else out there experiencing this phenomena…Is it just bad luck? Or do I have a lemon on my hands?

      Sincerely,
      Spooked Spoke Folks

    • #122081

      I have the same problem with my 26er hardtail just broke my fourth in 2 seasons thought first time stick second and third the bike shop cause they seemed loose after getting fixed even tho wheel was straight 4th one all were tight and wheel straight riding uphill here a clang boom broken spoke on drive side don’t know what it is thinking about upgrading my wheel…is there any good strong wheels for a guy my size at 230 pounds I bought the 26 figuring they’d be stronger than 29 I always wondered if a 29 could support my weight

    • #122082

      What kind of wheels are you having the trouble with? Also, have you had a wheel builder look at them?

    • #122083

      I am having trouble with the stock wheels (Shimano M525 alloy hubs; Bontrager Mustang Disc 29 32-hole rims, Tubeless Ready)….LBS stated, "…they haven’t had any problems with these wheels…" and the wheel "looked fine".

      I am just wondering if anyone else was having issues with these wheels…more broken spokes than I am used to.

    • #122084

      While I have never owned those wheels, with some quick research I found that they tend to have issues with spoke tension coming from the factory. It wounds like you have had a better experience than some others even. My advise would be to make sure the spoke tension is appropriate and even.

      Are the spokes always breaking on one side or in a particular place?

    • #122085

      I have the exact same hubs and wheels (mine are converted to tubeless). I noticed my spoke tension was off shortly after I purchased my bike. I rode with them like that for quite a while not knowing any better (and the place I bought if from obviously did not bother to check them either). Never broke any spokes, but the wheels were definitely out of true. I took it to my LBS and they needed to true both of my wheels. They have worked great since then. The reviews I have read on these wheels are all over the place…

    • #122086

      Spokes break from fatigue, which is caused by the tension being too low or uneven. Most machine built wheels (wheels on stock bikes) have fairly uneven tension, and that’s whats going on with yours. Spokes will likely continue to break, because they’re fatigued.

      The spokes on each side of each wheel should have the same tension. You can check this by plucking the spokes like a guitar string, they should make the same tone on each side. Lower tone = lower tension. all spokes in the right rear should the same, the left rear will have a different tone. Same thing with the front wheel, each side will be different (if its a disc brake wheel) but each side should be consistent.

      And yes, 29er wheels can handle 230lbs riders no problem, most folks I build for are over 200lbs. Bigger riders need beefier rims obviously, but with the right parts anyone can ride a 29er.

    • #122087

      I am a sturdy rider myself at 240#. I have a Trek Excalibur 29er, and it works hard but performs well. I did ensure that the spokes were tightened correctly and had a bike mechanic that I trust show we what to look for in addition to checking my spokes. Enjoy!!!

    • #122088

      I just broke my fifth spoke (in less than two seasons) on my rear wheel on a ride last night. At the time of the last incident, I spoke to LBS & they assured me they would give it a good tune with one of the better mechanics….So I feel fairly confident that I have a competent mechanic.

      I am starting to wonder is there something else going on (besides poor craftmanship) ??? Could something be defective with the hub (Shimano M525 hubs) ??? It’s always the rear wheel….seems to be both sides & always snaps at the hub end. Don’t really want to dish out the $$ to rebuild a complete wheel, however if I do what parts would you recommend replacing (aside from new spokes)? Rim? Hub?

      I appreciate all the comments & feedback.

    • #122089
      "sssirois" wrote

      I just broke my fifth spoke (in less than two seasons) on my rear wheel on a ride last night. At the time of the last incident, I spoke to LBS & they assured me they would give it a good tune with one of the better mechanics….So I feel fairly confident that I have a competent mechanic.

      I am starting to wonder is there something else going on (besides poor craftmanship) ??? Could something be defective with the hub (Shimano M525 hubs) ??? It’s always the rear wheel….seems to be both sides & always snaps at the hub end. Don’t really want to dish out the $$ to rebuild a complete wheel, however if I do what parts would you recommend replacing (aside from new spokes)? Rim? Hub?

      I appreciate all the comments & feedback.

      The spokes are breaking from fatigue, like I mentioned earlier. At this point, even if a good wheelbuilder/mechanic went over the wheel and evened out the spoke tension and made it perfect, spokes will continue to break, because they’ve already been fatigued by riding the wheel when it wasn’t built properly. It happens on the rear wheel faster because it carries more weight, so it will show the signs of a poor build sooner than the less-stressed front wheel.

      As long as the rim is still straight and not damaged new spokes and nipples will be the least expensive route to fix it. You’re looking at about $40 for the spokes plus whatever the rebuild fee is. If you decide to get a new rim (to cut weight, go tubeless, etc) I’d recommend getting an all new wheel. The M525 hubs are low end, total boat anchors, and not worth spending money to rebuild them to a new rim IMO.

    • #122090
      "dgaddis" wrote

      [quote="sssirois":1bwv32qz]I just broke my fifth spoke (in less than two seasons) on my rear wheel on a ride last night. At the time of the last incident, I spoke to LBS & they assured me they would give it a good tune with one of the better mechanics….So I feel fairly confident that I have a competent mechanic.

      I am starting to wonder is there something else going on (besides poor craftmanship) ??? Could something be defective with the hub (Shimano M525 hubs) ??? It’s always the rear wheel….seems to be both sides & always snaps at the hub end. Don’t really want to dish out the $$ to rebuild a complete wheel, however if I do what parts would you recommend replacing (aside from new spokes)? Rim? Hub?

      I appreciate all the comments & feedback.

      The spokes are breaking from fatigue, like I mentioned earlier. At this point, even if a good wheelbuilder/mechanic went over the wheel and evened out the spoke tension and made it perfect, spokes will continue to break, because they’ve already been fatigued by riding the wheel when it wasn’t built properly. It happens on the rear wheel faster because it carries more weight, so it will show the signs of a poor build sooner than the less-stressed front wheel.

      As long as the rim is still straight and not damaged new spokes and nipples will be the least expensive route to fix it. You’re looking at about $40 for the spokes plus whatever the rebuild fee is. If you decide to get a new rim (to cut weight, go tubeless, etc) I’d recommend getting an all new wheel. The M525 hubs are low end, total boat anchors, and not worth spending money to rebuild them to a new rim IMO.[/quote:1bwv32qz]

      Thanks for the tips…Didn’t realize once the damage was done, the wheel was trash. I am just glad you didn’t tell me it was related to the fact that I choose to ride with toe clips 😉

    • #122091
      "sssirois" wrote

      I am just glad you didn’t tell me it was related to the fact that I choose to ride with toe clips 😉

      OOOH, yeah that changes everything! 😆

    • #174219

      I wanted to post an update on this topic as I am still having “issues” with my 29’er wheels…To recap, I got a little over two season on my stock wheels.  In total, I broke a total of 6-7 spokes on 2+ seasons of riding on my original wheels.   At the beginning of 2014 season, I had a WTB Laser Disc wheel build and managed to get through the rest of 2014 with no broken spokes.   Now into the 2015 season, I have had 3 spokes break and my wheel is getting more & more out of true…Making my other spokes weak & prone to more spokes breaking.     The LBS insists “many other riders” ride a hard tail just as hard with no issues….They’ve gone on to state (indirectly) that maybe my “riding style” could be “major factor” as to why I continue to have issues.

      Considering I need to address my wheel situation, I have the following questions:

      • Could the problem truly be my “riding style” (especially considering I’ve ridden a HT for 20+ years on a 26’er with hardly ever any spoke issues)?   If so, what type of riding style is conducive to breaking spokes (aside from the obvious…like hucking 20ft drops)?   Is it tire pressure?  Body position?  Bike Geometry?  Braking???  Is it Hardtail specific?
      • Is this just “proof” that 29’er wheels just are not as strong as a 26 inch wheels…Is the industry (LBS) so heavily invested in the 29’er wheel size that they must continue to support/push this size (even though physics state the 29’er  wheel is not as strong & maybe it can not handle someone who rides hard & frequently) ?
      • I know this next question is difficult to answer depending on where/how we ride, but…What is the expected life on a wheel that is ridden off-road?   Based on my previous experiences less than 2 seasons seems like a very short life (Typically ride ~800 – 850 offroad miles per season)?
      • Does investing more into a new set of wheels make sense & will it increase the life of my wheels….OR…Should I save my money and buy cheap wheels knowing there are other factors in play that will continue to plaque me due to my wheel size & riding style?

      Appreciate any feedback….As I decide on my next move.

       

      • #174474
        • I know this next question is difficult to answer depending on where/how we ride, but…What is the expected life on a wheel that is ridden off-road?   Based on my previous experiences less than 2 seasons seems like a very short life (Typically ride ~800 – 850 offroad miles per season)?
        • Does investing more into a new set of wheels make sense & will it increase the life of my wheels….OR…Should I save my money and buy cheap wheels knowing there are other factors in play that will continue to plaque me due to my wheel size & riding style?

        The wheels should last a long time.  Stock wheels suck a lot of times though.  A set of well built wheels won’t break spokes, they’ll last until you destroy the rim or something like that.  The wheel size isn’t a problem either.

        How much do you weigh? Are the rims dented up?

    • #174342

      I’m wondering if it could be the same fatigue issue?  My experience has been that over time you will break spokes, the harder you ride, the more frequently.  I’ve broken 3 spokes this year on my 26″ wheels, the riding is pretty aggressive, I ride places like Downieville and do shuttle runs on trails with lots of rocks and jumps.  My solution has been to accept it as something that is going to happen, buy my own spokes and install new ones when one breaks.  With a little practice, you shouldn’t have a problem doing it.

      My thought on your question about the industry being invested in 29ers?  Hell yeah they are!  And now in any other new type or size they can push.  If you think about it, they made a brilliant marketing move.  Over the past several years, the industry convinced everyone they HAD to have a 29er and basically killed the 26″ wheel size.  Guess what, lots of people don’t care for a 29″ wheel and it doesn’t make sense in many areas.  So, their next big move is push 27.5.  Hey, it’s a comfy medium between 26 and 29, and its a different type of bike so everyone has to buy something new if they don’t want that 29er.  I just feel that they put greed first in the marketing of their new wheels sizes, since you can’t exactly upgrade an existing 26 to 29, all in the name of progress.

    • #174363

      I had no problems with stock wheels on my Stumpjumper 29er for first two years. Then spokes start to brake. Especially after downhill riding with rocks and jumps. for last two seasons  I had to replaces more then six spokes on my rear wheel. I’m blaming spokes being too old and punishment to hard. But I’m not giving up and hope to ride those wheels till it fall apart

    • #174477

      I had at-650 29er rims on the back of my trek x-caliber 6 and they kept snapping spokes I finally upgraded to at-850 rims.  I would recommend thoes heavier riders on the trails. I weigh 239 and im 6’4 and thoes rim hold up o. Jumps and drop ins

    • #174478

      Dustin,

      Thanks for chiming in….I weigh 195 pounds.   The rims are not dented up (dinged up a bit here & there but definitely not dented).  It just does not seems right that I continue to have this issue with less than 4 seasons on this bike with 10+ broken spokes & one replaced rear wheel (not to mention I broke a spoke on my font wheel??).    I am a little annoyed that the LBS is suggesting it could be “me”, when I haven’t had any other issues like this in all my years riding a 26 inch HT….The only change has been the wheel size, the bike, and the LBS (switched shops recently), so my conclusion it’s the wheels size and/or the LBS & quality (or lack of quality in the product or build).

      I got your contact info, and seriously considering reaching out for a build….however I am a little gun shy dumping a significant money into a set of wheels (& starting to doubt the whole 29’er wheel size).

       

       

    • #174482

      By ‘dinged up’ are you talking about cosmetic scratches, or has the metal actually bent any? If you’ve hit or landed a jump hard enough to flat spot the rim that’ll cause all sorts of issues, but it doesn’t sound like that’s the case.

      At 195lbs you shouldn’t have any problems with wheels – if they’re built right.  And that is the key, they have to be built right.  Stock wheels are machine built, and the machines are great at getting the wheel round, true, and dished – so they look perfect.  BUT, keeping spoke tension even is what makes a wheel durable, and machines are not so great at that.  If you pluck the spokes like guitar strings they’ll make a tone, the spokes on each side of a wheel should all make about the same tone.  Different tone = different tension.  That’s what’s causing your spokes to break. Uneven tension leads to fatigue, which leads to failure.

      Replacing a broken spoke doesn’t fix the problem by itself, you’ve got to go through the wheel and get the tension even, which can take some time, and most bike shops don’t take the time to do it (and many don’t even know that they should).  BUT, at this point, even that isn’t going to fix it, because the fatigue (from riding with uneven tension) is already there, so the spokes are on borrowed time.

      But yeah, 29ers are great, and if you like the way the bike rides, getting a well built set of wheels will cure your problems.

    • #174670

      I agree with dgaddis’s point about getting spokes replaced and shops not doing the job well.  I’ve done that at times, when I’ve been too busy to do it myself.  I’ve noticed that most bike shops just slap a spoke in and tension it enough that everything looks right.  This spring I was really busy and had broke 3 spokes, two at Downieville, which will chew up any wheel, no matter how well it’s built, then one after.  I didn’t have time or any spare spokes, so I took the wheel to a shop.  They put spokes in and on the next ride, I broke another.  I noticed that they seemed to do the normal crap spoke install, so I had that second shop I took the wheel to install the new spoke and do a wheel true and check the tension.  It cost me a little more, but I didn’t have the time to do it to myself and since then, I’ve had no problems.

      Maybe that is what you need to do?  Take it to a “reputable” shop and have them true your wheel and check the spoke tensions.

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