Tagged: ,

Viewing 9 reply threads
  • Author
    • #126000

      I live in florida and im pretty experienced at biking and the question is should i go tubeless.

      What are the benifits of it.
      What is maximum cost i should be willing to spend since my wheels are not tubeless ready
      can i go tubeless without tubeless compatible wheels/tires
      what all do i need to go tubeless

    • #126001

      The first thing I wish I had done is watch the Stan’s Tubeless videos. I set up some wheels before and after, and those I did after watching the soapy way of mounting definitely hold air longer. Their site will also answer most of your questions – there are a couple of options, from rim strips to rim tape, etc.

    • #126002

      Thanks I will have to check them out

    • #126003

      Did the videos answer all of your questions?

    • #126004

      they did help

      do i need tubless compatible wheels to do this

    • #126005

      No need for tubeless-specific wheels/rims. That’s what the rim strips are used for – to "mimic" how a tubeless rim is shaped on the inside.

    • #126006

      I do a ghetto tubeless method that works well and cheaply.
      Clean your rim well.
      Use 1 layer of electrical tape around the rim. Then 2 layers of 3m fibre tape.
      Poke a pin hole through the tape layers with a sharp tool and insert a either a tubeless valve or one cut from a old tube.
      Mount tire.
      Spray tire bead with windex (makes it slippery and mount easily.
      Fill tire with appropriate amount of stans for wheel size.
      Air up to 40-50psi.
      Shake tire around to coat inside with fluid.
      Let sit on side for 20 min each side.
      Check for leaks and shake more if there is some.

      Reduce psi to desired amount and ride.

    • #126007

      Tubeless on a mountain bike is the way to go. My tubeless setup actually holds air better than the tubes (Thorn resistant + green slime) I had. Changed to Maxxis High Roller II’s which are tubeless ready. Did the official method of conversion on the front tire and the ghetto method on the back. Both tires hold air equally well. I haven’t had a flat since the conversion. Tubeless requires a bit more maintenance than tubes but its well worth it. In the land of thorns, tubes are a liability. Some days I come back from a ride with a hundred goat heads in each tire. Still no flat.

    • #126008

      I just recently converted to tubeless. My bike came with tubeless ready rims and tires but had waited some time to convert due to skepticism but let me tell you I should have done it long ago. I did a before and after ride at the same trail and the difference is amazing. The bike feels smoother over the nasty stuff but is much faster. I improved my time substantially and in my opinion is one of the best upgrades that can be done. It is a little more maintenance but I agree it is totally worth it. A conversion kit will suffice for wheels that are not TLR but I would recommend investing in TLR wheels and tires when you can. It is an easy conversion costing less than $50 and will hold air the best as well as give you the greatest benefit in terms of decreasing your rolling resistance.

    • #126009

      Love riding tubeless. Never would have imagined it would have changed the feel of the bike as it did. The bike seems to react better to the terrain as I can feel the ground through the tires better.

      I rode Kenda Small Block 8 2.1’s first. I went to Bontrager XR3 TLR 2.2’s this year. I had to ride tubes to get the Bontragers to take a bead, but once they would seat, I can tell the difference between tube and tubeless for sure.

Viewing 9 reply threads

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.