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the frame you picked is a nice one, but i dont see you getting the bike at or below 25lbs, i see that bike coming in more around 27lbs. but maybe if your running a small frame that goal might be feasible, anyways, pics when your done would be great with a scale shot to see if you proved me wrong and got it to weigh 25lbs or less, but either way have fun with your new bike. also, manufactures weights are not always accurate and can be off a bit, usually +/- 15 grams
the only thing i can think of that you might need, is new IS 6 bolt rotors if your current rotors are center-lock.
Specialized does not allow the sell of thier bikes online by a dealer, so finding an online retailer selling one is not going to happen, but you might be able to find someone selling a used one on Craigslist or the many other used bike selling sites, the only way you can get a new Specialized bike is to go to your LBS that sells that brand.
"FBTrek321" wrote+1 on the 5.10 shoes, the minaar shoe is my favorite, but that has both SPD and flats. only other shoe like it is the shimano MP66w which is what i currently wear. but i want a new pair of Minaars
the SixSixOne Filter shoe is also a SPD flat pedal shoe
"FBTrek321" wroteth JB weld only kinda worked…not enough to have the grip not slip… and the bike shop didnt have any that fit…neither did home depot
chili if you would send me those i would be extremely grateful 😄 😄
sent you a PM
that sucks it didnt work, i was hoping it would work so you could be out riding again, but hopefully CP can send those to you.
your LBS might have a spare bolt or the hardware store might have one, but if not, i do know a way to somewhat fix it, but it only has a 70% chance of working, you can get some JB Weld, the 2 part liquid epoxy kind that cures fast, then take your hex wrench and coat it with some liquid dish soap, after that take the JB Weld, mix it, and then put it into the stripped hex head, after that take your hex wrench and put it in the hex bolt and clean up any excess, wait whatever time it says it takes for the JB Weld to cure, after it cures you should have a fixed hexed bolt, but like i said this sometimes doesnt work, good luck and i hope you can get it fixed.
*EDIT- this trick also works for stripped threads, but only in low torque applications
i have some Stroker Trails and i love them, i personaly think they are better than the Juicy’s when it comes to modulation and stoping power, the only down sides to the Hayes brakes is if you want to have the good power and modulation youll need to swap out the stock DOT 4 fluid with DOT 5.1 fluid to get the most out of the brakes, also they tend to be a bit grabby at slow speeds and sound like turkeys gobbling while the pads and rotors are getting burnished in, but besides those few things these brakes work great, they dont seem to get too hot, as i dont notice any brake fade on the long descents, ive had these brakes for about a year now with no major issues
just an FYI, both of those shocks need to have the damper rebuilt by an authorized dealer or done by the manafactuer and both jobs cost around the $100+ area, so whoever told you that the Fox is more of a pain to fix is most likely a Rock Shox fanboy, as service on both shocks is pretty much the same
it sounds like your cassette is worn out, it might look fine, buts its probably worn and only skips on your most popular gears, putting a new cassette on with a old chain can cause the cassette to easily wear out in a two month time frame (as i know from experiance), just putting 15miles a week on a old chain, new cassette setup is all it would take. most people dont know thier cassette is worn out untill they put on a new chainring and thier chain skips on the cassette just like in your situation.
"hlawinski" wroteHey I have a Trek Fuel 8! Great bike but I have to warn you, the Fox Rear shock I have completely sucks. I have had to rebuild it after every ride. Currently, my bike store is trying to get it fixed or replaced. The owners manual actually says you should rebuild it after every 8 hours of riding – that is ridiculous. I ride for 3 hours at a time and as I said, It gets "stuck down" (the travel is some how sucked out and the shock is worthless) after every ride I go on. Its a 5" travel shock so it should be able to handle southern CA moderate downhill and the like but it does not. The Trek is a tremendous bike with great geometry, it is sad the shock is so bad. I hope that helps… 😀
the shock on the bike is actually a really good shock, i think your having this problem because you are bottoming out to much, which means you have to much sag or you need a differant air sleeve, if you bottom the shock to much, it will cause the "stuck down" symptom you are having, the force from it bottoming out causes the air in the postive side to push past the seals into the negative side, which causes the piston to get sucked in a little from thier being a postive force on both sides of the piston.
also the recomended air sleeve seal service (and its only seal service, not a full rebuild) of 8hrs. isnt the reason your having "stuck down" issues, ive ran my Fox Float RP23 shock well past the 8hr. mark plenty of times without an issue, and i also dont think 8hrs for that service is ridiculous, if you look at some of the maintenance intervals for other shocks, youll see that 8hrs is some what the norm for rear shock maintenance
just like BUDDAH said, go to your local motocross shop, they should be able to order you up what you want or they might have some of the stuff you want in stock, i wear mx jerseys when i ride and thats where i get them from, and BUDDAH, Apex Sports here in the Springs is the place to go for Alpinestars gear.
i think Fox forks are the way to go, thier made here in the US and actually have metal internals, so i think the high price is kinda justified, as for what fork to go with do like the other poster said and pick out some forks and go into your LBS to see which ones will work with your bike and go from thier
on another note im not really a big fan of Rock Shox they do make nice forks, but the lower end models and some of the high end have plastic internals (like the lower-high end, not blackbox, motion control damper is plastic), im always hearing storys from the Rock Shox guys here in Colorado Springs about all the warranty repairs that have to happen do to stuff breaking inside the forks, one of the engineers/designers i know said that they had to redesign some of the forks like the Tora because the warranty claims racked Rock Shox up a million dollars in just repairs, i dont know if that is true but its what he said
i would go with pretty much any 100mm travel Fox fork personally, but thats just me, with that frame i wouldnt go over 100mm of travel, but you might be able to get away with 120mm, the only forks i would steer clear of are the Rock Shox Darts, any thing from SR Suntour, and RST.
just keep in mind that you can buy a brand new Giant XtC for $1100, so if you spec the bike out and your price goes over that amount, and the specs you pick are not any nicer than want comes stock on the brand new bike, you just might want to look into just buying a complete bike.
i did some quick searching, and it looks to me like the Giant ATX frame is the same frame as a Giant XtC just with differant decals, so if you go to Giant’s website they should have the geo on thier.
it looks good, exept for the massive stack of spacers 😆 i think you need to cut that steertube down a bit 😃
heres a front fender that will work http://www.rei.com/product/785083
it comes with adapters to fit a 1", 1 1/8", 1.5", steer tube diameter
i think you might be able to run a low clamp FD to give you more clearance, it should put the FD clamp lower on the seat tube and a little farther away from your tire, from the pics i see of that frame the current FD clamp location is right where the tire is closeset to the frame, so a little lower should move it out of the way, you could also try to move the FD a little bit farther down on the seat tube, but only down far enough not to mess with shifting, if that doesnt work then your LBS should have a low clamp FD in stock for you try out, and if it doesnt work they should let you return it.
where is the tire rubbing the derailer, is it at the cage or the seat tube clamp?
"jkneivel" wroteI need to make sure that whatever forks I purchase are 15mm thru axle and they also have to have a normal QR skewer??
as far as i know you cant have both axle versions on the same fork
i dont think you can identify what year a Specialized bike is by the serial number, but i know you can usually identify a bike by the graphics and what colors that bike came in for certain years and also by frame design, so if you could post a pic of the bike, someone on here should be able to help you figure out the year of the bike.
