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Leave the tubes in for a bit so the tires take shape, week or so should do the trick.
I’ve had to do this a few times with new tires that would not set-up no matter what I did..I’m guessing you already had a look HERE?
Glad you’re all sorted!!
As others have mentioned cut the post down. If you have a pipe cutter the job becomes a snap and you end up with a nice straight cut.
Most shock bolts come in a 6, 8, 10mm diameter. Sounds like you need an M8 x ???.
The over all length of the bolt is not as important as long as you have enough threads to tighten up the lock nut without issue and not to much hanging out that your rip your leg open.
As for over tightening the nut and compressing the shock eyelet, not really possible as there is an axle pin that runs right through the shock eyelets and should be a tight fit between the shock mounts on the bike.
Your health and happiness is directly related to your job and the stress involved with it, you seem pretty healthy and happy.
I love my job as a golf course superintendent, being outdoors and all. I’d love it more if It involved bikes and not golf clubs!
"mtbgreg1" wroteI get the same feeling when I’m sitting here working, and then I look out my window at the hills above town and can see someone rolling along the trail, having a grand ‘ole time… makes me wonder what they’re doing different in life, lol! But I know I’ll get my chance soon 😃
What that saying again? "The grass is always greener!" Others like myself, might think you have it pretty good Greg.. These race reports you’ve been posting lately tell a different story about the amount of time you don’t sit at a desk. Just saying!
I run XO trails on both my bikes and love them. I have run both kinds of pads with equal success. Organic will wear out quicker specially in wet conditions, but are less noisy then the sintered pads. In the end, each kind as its pro’s and con’s, less noise but wear out quicker, more noise but last longer.
I have not run any of the aftermarket brakes as of yet so can’t make comment on any of them.First off, if you have cheap caged pedals they will not hold up to much abuse at all. You will be well served to have a look for some thinner platform pedals that will stand up to the abuse and give you a little more ground clearance with the thinner platform.
Secondly, I’m not to sure which bike you ride and the geometry of your bike but it could just be conducive to pedal strikes. You may have a low BB height and 175mm crank arms which is a strike waiting to happen. With-out spending some cash the only real fix is to adjust your position on the bike. When coasting downhill you should always have the pedals in a neutral position, basically pedals level. When cornering you should always have the pedal/crank arm leading into the corner in the up most position or 12 o’clock position. Doing this will help you avoid making contact with objects around you on the trail.You probably will still experience the odd pedal strike no matter what you do, but low profile platforms and body positioning should help you eliminate most of them. Also look where you want to go and not where you are going….
"Redaunt" wroteUpgrade the existing hydraulic disc brake with another hydraulic disc brake. What’s on there now is Cannondale Helix 6 hydraulic disc, 180/160mm
I just hope these hydraulic brakes are not going to be problematic. So far, I am not impressed as it seems WAY too difficult to change a tire (it shouldn’t be that difficult, right)? I am willing to replace the rear brake now and the front later. I have no preference on brand name.
Did you end up making a decision?
"Redaunt" wroteWhat clipless SPD pedal is recommended for a newbie? I have SPD shoes and have ridden clipless for commuting, but not mountain biking. Kind of looking at Shiman M424 but worried about the durability of the "cage" thing. Would appreciate any suggestions. Weight is not a factor, and I don’t want to spend more than $75 or so…….
Shimano M-520’s
They have adjustable spring tension and are cheap, $25 at JensonUSA.
Ya I don’t get it at all! We are talking about human life here, just goes to show you the value some people put on it..
"jeff" wrote[quote="gar29":3h61k2ty]Has there been any notice of hits on singletracks.com increasing?
Big time! Visits and pageviews are at an all time high and seem to keep going up. 😀[/quote:3h61k2ty]
That’s always a good thing!!
"Redaunt" wroteUpgrade the existing hydraulic disc brake with another hydraulic disc brake. What’s on there now is Cannondale Helix 6 hydraulic disc, 180/160mm
I just hope these hydraulic brakes are not going to be problematic. So far, I am not impressed as it seems WAY too difficult to change a tire (it shouldn’t be that difficult, right)? I am willing to replace the rear brake now and the front later. I have no preference on brand name.
Hydraulic brakes and changing the tire…. In the end it does not matter which make or model of hydraulic brake you have, if the rotor is out and the lever is pulled even a bit it will cause the pistons to push out leaving you with the issue you experienced. As I mentioned you can always carry a pad spreader in your kit and as soon as you remove the wheel you insert the spreader between the pads and problem solved. If you have no issues with your brakes other then this, I would go this route and save the cash. If you are looking to upgrade the brakes in general you can’t go wrong with any of the brakes I mentioned above. If you can manage it I’d go with the XT’s with fins, you’ll be more then impressed with the power and modulation. Shimano brakes are general more maintenance friendly then Avid that’s why I recommended Shimano.
"Redaunt" wroteSo if I wanted to upgrade my stock hydraulic disc brakes, what would be a good starting point? I’d be willing to spend up to $75 or so for each brake. Thanks for any advice!
What brakes do you currently have?
Do you have a preference, Avid or Shimano, I know there are others but they really don’t offer descent lower priced brakes?
Are we still talking about purchasing new mechanical brakes or are you talking about upgrading your hydraulics with better hydraulics?
If you are looking to upgrade your current brakes to newer hydraulics, you are still looking at lower level hydraulics at that price range. If you move up to around $100 per brake you can get yourself a set of Shimano XT’swhich are an amazing brake for the price. You get a little bit of a break on the price if you’re in the states and shipping is free. Not to sure if rotors are included in that price so have a close read. You can always have a look at the lower level Shimano Deore M615 or the mid level Shimano SLX M675. You really can’t go wrong with any of these models. But again, what brakes do you currently have? The above options may not be an upgrade to what you currently have.
If you are looking at mechanical brakes have a look at the Avid BB7 Avid BB7 I’ve heard and read that they are worth the extra $$ over the lower end BB5’s.
Ya for sure it would be an easy swap, but a swap you should reconsider. Yes mechanical brakes are less daunting when it comes to maintaining them over hydraulic, but the performance you gain from hydraulic brakes is well worth it. I personally have not heard about to many people that want to switch mechanical for hydraulic brakes, its usually the other way around. If you are worried about the pads compressing again in the future, just carry one of the little pad spacer things that come with the brakes in your pack. If you don’t have one I’m sure your LBS would have them laying around as they come with all new brakes.
"mic673" wroteI am new to this. Do you have to have a strava or bike computer to log rides? Are there any badges for China. I am finding quite a few trails. Just want to know how this works.
Sean
Have a look here.
[url:3f03q2qw]http://help.singletracks.com/support/solutions/articles/76690-singletracks-trail[/url:3f03q2qw]"James Torrey" wroteWhat I need to know is:
Is my frame capable of accepting upgrades such as 160mm front fork, [color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]Looks like your frame is designed around a 100mm fork. Running 160mm fork would really throw the geometry off and probably cause you handling issues.[/color:2ez9qtp3]heavier thrueaxles, [color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]Again you are limited to what the frame can handle, I’m guessing you have a 135 9mm QR which with the right wheelset could handle either a 10mm bolt on hub or a 12mm to 10mm conversion axle using a 12mm hub.
[url:2ez9qtp3]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/sun-ringle-rear-conversion-axle-2013/rp-prod65450[/url:2ez9qtp3][/color:2ez9qtp3]and what size do I have, and how much bigger can I go?
[color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]10mm is the biggest you can go, but you would need new hubs to make this happen.[/color:2ez9qtp3]Can I beef up the bottom bracket?
[color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]You can not change the size of the BB, you wouldn’t really not need to do anything to the BB unless the bearings are shot and you want to replace them.[/color:2ez9qtp3]Any concerns or problems changing out the stock Tektro brakes for some larger rotor hydraulics?
[color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]Not to sure which model you have but if it has rim brakes like the lower end models then you are stuck with those. If it has disc brake mounts then you can upgrade to what ever you’d like.[/color:2ez9qtp3]How beefy do my wheels have to be to keep from bending under my 220 pound body?
[color=#FF0000:2ez9qtp3]So much depends on how much money you want to spend! Making sure your wheels are trued and tensioned correctly will make a world of difference. Before you purchase wheels you will need to decide what you want to do with your fork. Your fork choice will dictate your front hub configuration 15mm or even 20mm is the standard these days. [/color:2ez9qtp3]Thank you for your time, and sharing your knowledge with an old dude that wants to keep riding.
James.Trying to upgrade an entry level bike to something it was never designed for usually does not end well. The geo and specs of the bike were never designed to handle 3 or 4 foot drops, even upgrading the fork will just be a bandaid. Sure it might handle a 3 or 4 foot drop with 160mm fork but it will climb and handle like crap. By the time you upgrade the fork which could easily be $300 to $400 for a mid range fork then look for a new wheelset which could be another $300 to $400, another $200 + for a complete brake set you could easily be into it for $600 to $800 or even a grand, not worth it at all if you ask me. Personally I would seriously look around for either a new or even used bike that was designed for what you want it to do and handle. If I were you I’d even consider looking at a full suspension bike. Also 160mm is a very aggressive trail bike, unless you plan of using it to do a fair amount of descending its over kill, I speak from experience on this. Have a search of the internet at 120 to 140mm bikes you have endless options which will be way more suited for what you want your bike to do.
Have a look here [url:2kmxzlkj]http://www.tbsbikeparts.com/shimano-xt-m785-brakes/[/url:2kmxzlkj]
Canadian funds so even cheaper for you Americans
"gar29" wrote[quote="schwim":ue3ve89n]My brother told me that Pricepoint’s got a sale going on Deore hydraulic brakes, for $50 each. I spent more on levers and bb7 mechanical setups.
Wow, I need to look that up, that’s a smokin deal![/quote:ue3ve89n]
That smoking deal might be over since his post was from almost a year ago.. 😉
