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I have the RaceFace pad and love it. I haven’t had any issues but I honestly live in a safe neighborhood and park in a secure lot at work. I would take it off when not using it, it really isn’t that big of a pain to put on. If it weren’t for the simplicity of throwing my bikes in the truck in a matter of seconds I would use a fork mount mounted in my bed rail.
If it weren’t for my wife buying me the pad for my birthday I might have just went with the fork mount method, but again it hasn’t been a hassle for me. Also, don’t mean to get long winded, I recommend you take it off when not in use anyways because the sun will fade and deteriorate even the best pads. I spray mine with a UV protectant ever few months but that will only prolong the life a little if I don’t take it off.
Completely agree, a wider tire will give you a better ride.
I would pass on it, I think I would save your money and gets something that is a true upgrade. Look at a new higher end Diamondback or middle of the road Giant.
As for California, any ride in the Lake Tahoe area will not disappoint, Hole in the Ground, Rim Trail, Mr. Toads. Also I highly recommend visiting the birthplace of mountain biking, Marin County. Mount Tam, Repack, Tamarancho, China Camp. None of those will disappoint. My father lives in Colorado and he makes a voyage out here at least twice a year to ride Northern California trials.
Before I bought my Pivot Mach 6 I had a Knolly Chilcotin, I upgraded it to a 1×10 with an ethrirteen 42t expander and an ethirteen 30t chainring. Best upgrade besides buying a bike with 1×11 drivetrain.
I agree with Jeff. My dad is notorious for letting his chains get so bad he has to replace his cassette’s, not a huge deal but if you ever upgrade to a 1×11 it is a very expensive mistake.
I am in the military and have extensive medical training so its easy to say they did the wrong thing but until you actually witness something like that and have to act on it first hand it is easy to play monday morning quarterback. Did they do the right thing…..absolutely not but what saved the guy was his equipment, we should be discussing how important it is to where the appropriate gear when out riding. Mountain Biking is only becoming more and more dangerous as equipment and trails get more advanced. People need to ensure they are not only riding within there ability but doing it as safe as possible.
I agree with the hardtail pro’s and cons but that Diamond Back is a 1×8 for one, that can make for some miserable climbs for a newbie, and it weighs 30 pounds, that is 4 pounds heavier than my full suspension…..
I live in Northern California and it NEVER rains here…….I think if it did get to wet to ride I would watch my lawn grow.
get a JOB, save money and watch Pinkbike classifieds like a hawk
Tires are a lot like shoes, one guy might love Nike’s and another hates them. I personally have only ran Maxxis High Rollers II’s so I can’t comment on any other models but the HRII’s are awesome.
I would also look at Kenda’s Slant Six, great tire for loose over hardpack/hardpack.
Forgot, my short answer……Pivot Mach 6 carbon.
This is one of those impossible questions. There are SOOO many varibles; riding style, riders ability, riders build (heigJr., reach, inseam, weight etc) just to name a few.
When I get asked this question, I ask a few of my own in return before answering. I always ask what type of riding do you want to get into. I can’t recommend a 6″ travel full squish all mountain killer for a guy that wants to climb 5-6k a ride, but maybe he is a beast and can handle that….so thise are the things I need to find out.
So onto my personal favorites, I ride “all mountain”, “enduro” whatever you want to call it, I have to grind out 2-4K and then get to bomb down some technical singletrack most days here in NorCal. I need a bike that can climb, but handle some technical fast downhill.
I think it is hard to beat a Pivot Mach 6 or a Knolly bike with 4×4 suspension. Both are great climbers and are hard to beat when headed down. Are you going to win a race to the top….? Probably not but you will make up for it on the downhill…..that is if you have the ability to ride fast and technical downhill….but like I always tell guys, take your time and demo as many bikes as possible!!!!!
Yikes….my Pivot Mach 6 came in at $6000 with tax…..
Sailor Jerry and Coke Zero
I highly recommend a Diamondback, my first full suspension was the Sortie Comp. I would look at the cheaper build (xt) Mission.
I have used the RaceFace Narrow/Wide with a Shadow Plus as well as the E*Thirteen, never had a drop with my RaceFace, had one with my E*Thirteen, ended up finding that my derailure clutch needed to be tightened. I most recently bought a Pivot Mach 6, it is an XO drivetrain with RF Turbine crank and RaceFace Narrow/Wide chainring. Only a few rides but no issues yet.
As for the bourbon test, I was at my LBS and saw the new Shimano XT 1×11, I couldn’t pull the chain off at certain angles with my hand. I am a believer that the Narrow Wide has plenty of retention for 99% of the riders out there.
ummm I know….I got a little excited and posted the same thing someone else did!!!!! I am SUCH AN IDIOT 😳 😳 LOL
Anything from Oskar Blues, Dales Pale, Old Chub etc….and for christ’s sake they make kick ass bikes called REEB (beer backwards if you haven’t heard…. 😃 )
If I have a flat long climb i will lock my shock out, I usually always leave my fork in trail mode. I think it really depends on your rear suspension set up whether or not you need to lock it out. I have a very low center of gravity system and I do not get a lot of pedal bob, I have a friend who rides a Santa Cruz Bronson and he gets twice as much "bob" as me, therefore he is locking out more….but like we have all seen locking out is a personal opinion, when I was younger and in better shape I never locked out.
