[castnpedal]

If you are concerned simply from the monetary angle of things, I just upgraded to mechanical disc brakes on one of my rides and the grand total after all was said and done was just under $500.

I tried to stay mid-range on the prices of things (for the most part), and some trail and error caused some extra expenses, but here is my rough breakdown if you want it:

2007 Avid BB7 Mechanical x 2 – $120
SRAM Flak Jacket cables x 2 – $60
Mavic Crossride wheelset – $225
Brake Mount Adapter – 40
Assorted Cable mounts – $20

I kept my existing XT brake levers. I did the job myself, not tough, but had to buy the lockring cassete remover, housing and cable cutters, and chain whip (they will run you anywhere from $40-$70 or so total depending on the design and brand of tools).

The cables I bought were to keep the cables internally housed from lever to caliper. I really like riding in the cold of winter – no crowds and messy to frozen conditions – so switching to disc and keeping the cables shielded from the elements were highest on the list. I ended up using most of the second cable set purchased (a $30 pair is meant to set-up both brakes). I chalk that up to a piss poor Sette/Torx brand cable and housing cutters (buy Park tools), my inexperience, and a poor design in regard to the part of the cable system designed to use your existing cable stops – the part where your cables are likely bare and exposed now under or on top of your top tube. The brake cable kit includes some adapters and red/pink tubing to internally house the usually bare parts of the cable between the cable stops. I didn’t like how it looked, nor the design of it. I scrapped that after I initially installed it (thus the second set of cables) and just ran cable along the frame the whole way for the rear brake. Much better looking, and easier to install.

The bike is a Fisher Sugar 2 FS, and the mounts on the rear are not directly compatible with the mounts of the brakes themselves. I chose to ebay it for the adapter that then allowed me to mount the brakes. You’ll likely save $40 there by not needing an adapter. You can still find older, new BB7’s (arguably the best mechanicals out there – I have a set on my hardtail 29er, which fueled choosing them for this project). I think I have seen them for under $50 each, and even at $40 or slightly below for older models. You can also spend $10 for just normal cable and housing, and save around $100 on a wheelset (trying to research and pick out a good wheelset that won’t cost you $400-800 dollars starts to suck quickly. If I would’ve spent more it would have been in this area, but I ended up with an ok wheelset for the price). A realistic grand total might be $250 or so for lower end with still new parts (with a cheap wheelset being the biggest place to save, but also the place to lose the most quality).

Except for one tool, I made my purchases entirely online. I swear, the LBS’s here just don’t get it when a customer walks in the door. It is like they don’t want to help you, nor stay in business so I oblige and take my money to PricePoint, JensonUSA, etc. Most shops will likely install these for free (or for a small charge) if you buy your stuff there, but I am trying to at least seem like I know how to work on my bike, even if it is something as simple as mechanical brakes. If I hear another half interested bike shop employee tell me that ‘we don’t carry that, but we can order anything’ while playing with their cellphone and not making eye contact I may never buy something from an LBS again.

[castnpedal]

I have a decent amount of time riding both sides of this fence. I have 26ers in both hardtail and full suspension, and a hardtail 29er is the most recent addition. I am a larger sized guy, and just plain like the feel of the 29er better. The 29er really does everything I have read about, it picks up speed like you haved pressed down the accelerator, rolls nicely over larger obstacles, and I think it handles well – I like how it just rips and carries speed in turns. The climbing is good, and I can side with the only possible weakness being tight, tight turns – but what would be expected on a rig that is just simply bigger?
As long as we’re all mountain biking we’re doing something right. As was suggested, get out and ride one, unless you have 29eritis. I caught a trek/fisher demo as it was in town and rode a 29er hardtail hi fi out on the trail I most frequent. That was the basis for the latest bike purchase (a different fisher 29er), and it was a good decision.

[castnpedal]

Odds are the diameter of the steerer tube of the fork on that bike is 1 1/8" – that is a common ‘standard’ for a lot of forks and seems to be what that bike has been outfitted with in the past. A quick Google of the currrent fork and its specs should get you the solid answer and tell you what the next fork should have in that regard. The ultimate way is to uninstall the current fork and measure it. That will also get you the correct length of the steerer tube, so the new fork can be cut to that, or if you pick up one that is already cut down will insure you don’t get one that is too short.

[castnpedal]

I have always had one. I normally use it to have an end result of distance ridden. During resting points while riding I usually reference it for the time, or max speed after a quick downhill. The buddy I ride with always likes to try to clock a higher speed then me for the day. The only time I reference it while actually riding is approaching turns on some fast fireroads I ride. Just a quick glance to see where I am at and see if I am at a comfortable speed for the amount of loose packed stuff ahead in the turn.

As great as it would be to have a GPS and be able to download routes, chart speed, altitude, temp, vertical feet gained and lost, etc. that is too much for me (for now). Having a simple computer and a two way radio hooked on my pack strap for real time smack talking with my buddy is good.

[castnpedal]

I agree, riding the hiking only trails in a certain State Park out west here in the Santa Cruz mountains during winter is a great thing. I stayed upright during that trip, but had a friend fly straight through the turn of a switchback. It was amusing for the rest of us, especially when he snapped off one of the shifter levers of the rental bike he had (he isn’t a regular mtber) during the off the edge of the trail fall. He lucked out that is was the front derailleur shifter.

I spent a few weeks in NC last fall, had the golf and fly fishing gear with me (left the bike at home). Spent some time in the Smokies, great place.

[castnpedal]

I have a brand and a tattoo – neither is MTB specific though. I do proudly wear the scars on my shins from the sometimes ‘hungry’ platforms I ride. Nothing like have drops of blood on your cranks, thats the sign of a good ride.

[castnpedal]

I took the plunge ($) this year to pick up lights and commit to some night rides. I REI’d it for lights, so odds are there are cheaper avenues to locate the lights I got:

Nite Rider SolMate, $179 (an LED that I mount on my helmet, four hours run time, no settings options, it is either on or off)
Cygolite Dualcross, $149 (dual bulb/beam LED mounted on the bars, four to nine hour runtime depending on the settings, has a multitude of settings and light strengths – low, med low, med high, high)

As has been said before, the more light the better, and with these lights (and the bar mounted light on high) it is like a little bit of daylight in front of you. Have only been on one night ride so far, but it was nice. My buddy tried to mount flashlights to his bar ends, which is as funny as it sounds and got the same expected results. We ended up riding CHIPS style and sticking to the fire roads so he could benefit from riding side by side and stay upright. He since went on the IR with a broken leg (not from riding), so I have resisted the urge to solo it at night (proof I may not actually be a complete idiot).

The ride at night is sweet. It would be crazy with a whole group of riders and the motivation of pints to follow.

[castnpedal]

Real men ride platforms. Real smart men ride platforms and wear shin guards.

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