[budleach]

Technically chain slap will be at its worst when in small front chainring and/or small rear cog. That puts the chain close to the chain stay, and derailleur spring tension at a minimum. Going 1x would eliminate small front chainring so that may help a little.

You might have difficulty finding a 9 speed derailleur with clutch…

I would recommend getting the crank/BB and NW chainring, skip bash guard & guide, and opt for a decent 10 speed clutch derailleur (Shimano has strongest clutch) and shifter. You won’t be getting the most out a NW chainring with a 9 speed chain anyways, most NW chainrings are meant to be a close fit with a 10 speed chain, that is how they work. Putting a wider 9 speed chain on it would kind of defeat the purpose.

Max bang (range) for the buck would be a wide range 10 speed Sunrace MX3 cassette. Would give you the range of a Shimano 11 speed. Pair that with a Shimano 10 speed shifter and clutch derailleur of your choice.

 

[budleach]

I can’t tell you how many times I thought my bottom bracket was creaking/ticking, and it ended up just being a pedal that needed tightening. I’m talking about where the pedal spindle threads into the crank arm. Worth checking before you throw money at it. Pedal threads should always be cleaned meticulously, then installed with fresh grease applied and torqued to spec. Same goes for threaded BBs, clean, re-grease and re-torque.

Just a heads up if you plan on tackling yourself, right pedal spindle is right hand thread (standard = clockwise to tighten), left pedal spindle is left hand thread (reverse).

Based on the spec, Cranks and BB be worthwhile parts to upgrade if they are in need of replacement and you plan on keeping the bike for a long time.

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