[Shane_Thompson]

My buddy just got back from there. He said it was a blast.

[Shane_Thompson]

"mudly68" wrote

As short, sweet, and entertaining as I can be at the moment: I’ve been telling people here and there for about 6 months that I really wanna go mtbiking, finally (and kinda scarily) someone took me up on it about a month and half ago. I roll up with my "vintage" Trek 820 and I hear some laughs, some snickers, some comments about it being the kind of bike you put on your wall, not take on the trail. Its all I got, and I didn’t get this far to chicken out now. So off I go, following the boys with suspension and fancy shifters and gloves and shin guards. My instructions to them was simply no broken bones, everything else- fair game. First time out- AWESOME! And my bike stayed solid (quite surprisingly I now realize). Second time out- different trail, WHOA! I was all over the place, felt like I just took my training wheels off, feet touching down everywhere. My grip shifter was on the fritz, my handlebar grips came off entirely, I’d already tucked and rolled once, and I’m trying desperately not to get left behind, all the while trying not to roll down the 30 ft drop off the side of the trail. I’m hanging in there, but just barely… and then I’m headed down a steep downhill (one that already had me thinking twice about walking it) and I’m 3/4 of the way down, nearly ready to celebrate on making it, and my rear brake lets loose. I am ass over tea kettle before I can even manage to get out the word ****! My riding buddy gave me bonus points for my form. My rear brake cable- completely frayed/snapped. So now I’m down to front breaks for the rest of the ride. Entertaining? You betchya

Ha funny, I ride a 820 also, just got into riding. But yea, I get some laughs and the " is this guy for real? " looks also. The 820 has yet to hold me back. I am only held back by my knewb skilzz and my lack of strength compared to the pros out there.

[Shane_Thompson]

"element22" wrote

What ever you do…DO NOT lock your brakes thats bad. First off if you lock you no longer have control to avoid or steer away…

.

Welcome to the forum. Thats what I have to work on. I will lock my rear wheel up in a heart beat 😕

Feathering the "chicken switches" is the key to braking no matter what you are riding, but especially important when running some form of DH.

Feathering = "No Lock Up"

[Shane_Thompson]

Welcome! 😃

[Shane_Thompson]

"ChiliPepper" wrote

[quote="Shane_Thompson86":2odqpk2z]The first few times I came to Single Tracks I thought it was a Spam website lol… I dont have a clue why, but I did. 😳

Things that just make you go, hmmmm![/quote:2odqpk2z]

LOL it had nothing to do with my screen name or password ordeal LOL 😉

[Shane_Thompson]

"maddslacker" wrote

I find the extra power from lower bars to be crucial for powering through technical stuff.

It helped my riding alot. I also can ride wheelies better and bunny hop. atleast I think I can "better" 😉

[Shane_Thompson]

The first few times I came to Single Tracks I thought it was a Spam website lol… I dont have a clue why, but I did. 😳

[Shane_Thompson]

I ride my mountain bike on a 30 mile road ride sometimes on Saturdays but thats about it.

[Shane_Thompson]

"steve32300" wrote

I rode yesterday with the spacers out, and your right. The riding postition was a bit more uncomfortable, but I was able to put down more power. I rather deal with a touch of uncomfortablenesszz in exchange for being able to power up stuff better.

The lower your handle bars,the more of a cross country or road bike style you will have,which is a more efficiant pedaling positoion.
The higher the handle bars,the more off road style or BMX style if you will.

That’s the way I look at it,and since I come from BMX I ride with my stem and handle bars up higher in order to use those off road skills like bunny hopping,manuals,and generally navigating technical stuff,where as riding with the lower stem and handle bars pretty much leaves you at pedaling efficiancy alone because the bars are too low to ride and use those technical skills very well.That’s me though,I totally prefer the off road style over the XC or road style of riding,I love to ride technical stuff and couldnt do that if I rode in a XC or road style.

Thats what I was thinking. The lower the bars the harder it would be to Manual or ride wheelies, But I have not noticed a hold up yet.

[Shane_Thompson]

I may go with a set of those K-Rads when I wear my current tires out. All I do is trail ride XC. no agressive jumps ect. I think a K-Rad would do well.

[Shane_Thompson]

"maddslacker" wrote

[quote="Shane_Thompson86":3s3wcn98]

As for positioning, a lower handlebar generally facilitates a stronger, but more tiring, pedaling stance, while a higher bar provides a more relaxed ride, but with less ability to drive power to the crank arms.

[/quote:3s3wcn98]

I rode yesterday with the spacers out, and your right. The riding postition was a bit more uncomfortable, but I was able to put down more power. I rather deal with a touch of uncomfortablenesszz in exchange for being able to power up stuff better.

[Shane_Thompson]

Nice man and welcome 😃

[Shane_Thompson]

Welcome to the club. I am a newb my own self. 😃

[Shane_Thompson]

I rode it just not without the spacers and it feels no differnt to me.

[Shane_Thompson]

very nice

[Shane_Thompson]

"steve32300" wrote

Nevertheless cutting the steering tube would be a pain with my fork, for the threads deal would have to be re welded to the knew shortened tube.

What do you mean?

[quote:a5kn24b3]Um is there any possibilties in reversering that headset??

Do you mean put it back the way it was?Yeah,you can change it back to the way it was.??[/quote:a5kn24b3]

It can not be shortened because the the thing the steering cap screws into is welded to the top of the steering post. So if i cut below those welds I have no where to screw that cap in.

Reverse as in flip the headstock. flip it over so it sicks down instead of up.

[Shane_Thompson]

there it is. So yea I see what you mean. I guess thats pretty dangergous to have that sticking up. Nevertheless cutting the steering tube would be a pain with my fork, for the threads deal would have to be re welded to the knew shortened tube.

Um is there any possibilties in reversering that headset?? I could re add the spacers and reverse the headset, and be back at that same level.

[Shane_Thompson]

"ChiliPepper" wrote

Yeah, it was a good read.

Well obviously the 29’er riders will have an advantage over the 26’er riders due to more rolling speed. I feel that the 29’ers should have a class of their own instead of racing alongside the 26’ers. Ya know what I mean? Even with the rise of 29’er use, the 26’ers will never die or fade away. An absolute guarantee! Maybe by chance the 700cc will come back but 26’ers will stay strong. Being their is such a world of debate over these two wheel sizes, I am sure & I feel a debate coming on here real soon.

Sorry 29’ers, had to throw in my two cents bro’s!

Right thats what I was thinking a totaly differnt class of their own. Its like the BMX Cruiser class 24 inch BMX bikes would never race 20 inch BMX bikes.

[Shane_Thompson]

"ChiliPepper" wrote

They are called….."Headset Spacers" not "Headstock Spacers". No worries, we all had to start at the beginning sometime.

Anyways, Steve is very correct and too the point. Whatever you do….."DO NOT cut the steerer tube", just play around with re-positioning the spacers. Thats all bro!

[quote="Shane_Thompson86":oqli8704]Thanks for the reply I see what you mean. Does dropping the height of the HB`s give any performance gain or is just for fitment?

Its a personal preference really that you will need to find out on your own with re-positioning the spacers and riding for feel.[/quote:oqli8704]

So, if I remove one, I will have that steerer rod to deal with? It will be poking through the underside of the shock threatining to poke the tire?

[Shane_Thompson]

Thanks for the reply I see what you mean. Does dropping the height of the HB`s give any performance gain or is just for fitment?

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