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When you say "tune up" your bike, do you mean adjustments and light lubrication, or are you talking about overhauling bearings, etc? In my opinion, the former should be done on an on-going basis. I clean and lube my chain, chainrings, sprocket cassette, and rear derailleur; and clean the brake mating surfaces after virtually every ride. I lube the levers and cables/housings, and make any adjustments, after every third or fourth ride; and lube pivot points, pedals etc. once a moth or so. I make a habit of cleaning and re-packing bottom brackets, headsets, and wheel bearings long before they show any sign of really needing it. Any major bearing components with replaceable cassettes I let go until they are actually wearing out. As the folks above pointed out, it makes no sense to do it all at once since each component requires attention on it’s own schedule.
Red Winged Blackbirds are notorious for doing this during nesting/mating season. I don’t think you need to do anything to scare them away. They won’t hurt you. I think it’s kind of entertaining. You can even provoke males into attacking (swooping at, really) you sometimes by mimicking their high-pitched call. You certainly don’t want to hurt one that may be brooding.
Haven’t any of the pros answered you yet? They most likely will; they are very knowledgable and willing to help. Two suggestions from me, a not-so-pro: 1) You fork probably has a lock-out feature that allows you to disable it for those times you don’t want or need it–like riding up a long hill, for example. Look for a lever-like handle on top of one side and give it a twist. 2) It probably also has a pre-load feature that allows you to set the degree of stiffness according to you weight, style of riding, trail conditions, etc. Sometimes this is done with one adjustment, and sometimes each shock has its own. Also, sometimes the pre-load adjustment is on top, and sometimes its on the bottom. Just be sure to give them equal numbers of turns if you have two. Hope this helps, but like I said, more precise advice is proabably headed your way.
That’s pretty hard-core guys. I don’t think my backside could possibly stand 60 miles of riding in one day–even if were on a flat, smooth road! The furthest distance I’ve ridden all at once on nothing but singletrack is right around 30 miles. I’m using the term "singletrack" a little loosley here. The trail I rode that day is a National Scenic Trail in the Oregon Cascades. None of the recreation maps of the area indicate that it’s rideable; and the sign at the trailhead, although not prohibiting bikes, does warn would-be riders that it is not suitable for MTB. I just had to try, though. Needless to say, it was a gruelling ride over ridiculously rocky, steep terrain. Ironically, the thing that made such a long (for me) ride tolerable was that I was forced to be on my feet as much if not more than on the saddle.
Any flexible plastic bladder can be pressurized a little just by blowing a little air into it through the tube. I always do this anyway to keep the water from warming too much in the tube (unless it’s a cold day, then the opposite is true). I don’t go crazy, but a camelback bladder can easily handle a couple PSI, and that really does make a difference in how easy it is to get the water into your mouth. As for washing your bike? Good luck with that!
Hey! What about those of us who don’t use either? Are you anti-clip? With mini-clips (those without straps) you’ve got the best of both worlds. You’re feet are securely on the pedals even when bombing down hill over rough terrain with mud all over the place; and you have the option of putting your foot on the ground if you want or need to. They’re cheap, too.
I, too, used to hate everything but cotton. I eventually forced myself to wear a polyester t-shirt a few times, and once I got used the (very) different feel, I’ll never go back. The reason is that it dries so much quicker and better than cotton. That might not matter too much when the weather’s nice, but if the temperature drops like it often does here in Oregon in the mountains, the last thing you want on your back is a cold, wet, cotton t-shirt. There’s a saying in hiking and mountain climbing circles: "Cotton kills." Hypothermia is usually the greatest danger you face in the wilderness, so it’s more than worth it to get used to the different feel of synthetic materials. I have found that the cheap-o Wal-Mart specials are just as good as the more expensive name brands–often even better.
Have you ever noticed that the stores where MTBs are sold rarely, if ever, sell emergency equipment like whistles, compasses, etc. I’ve never once seen a book on outdoor survival or even heard a hint of advice given to any first-time buyer. Stores like REI are the exception to this rule, but most folks shop in bike stores or on-line. I don’t even think the manuals that come with MTBs make mention of the potential dangers in back country travel. It seems to me to be a glaring omission on their part.
I have several "levels" of emergency gear I take along depending on the remoteness of the particular trail I’m riding. Close to home it’s a patch kit and little else. In the mountains it’s a full emergency survival kit, map and compass, bike repair kit, water filter/pump, waterproof outer layer, fleece jacket, fleece hat, extra food and a first-aid kit.
I may carry a little extra weight when I go, but I certainly increase the likelihood that I’ll always come back.When you refer to another person as a D-bag (I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you meant Dirt-bag, not the alternative) you are in fact defining yourself as a hater. Schwim is not in the wrong to point this out. You’re employing a form of verbal abuse and degradation. That’s neither loving nor neutral.
To keep the water in the tube cool, gently blow it back into the bladder. As for the water warming up, 1" foam padding from a fabric store might be just the right low-weight insulation you need.
