0 points (view top contributors)
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
"ebjr" wrote
[quote="CP1":9rlmi2y3]
Sorry to hear that man….seriously! What a BUMMER!! 😢BTW, what part of FL did you move back to? Or should I say where in FL do you live now?
It is and it isnt. We always wanted to move back and be closer to family. I have faith that something better is in store.
We moved to Plant City.[/quote:9rlmi2y3]
Cool! We live in Melbourne, FL (on the east coast direct east of you guys), though we are moving to South Carolina in March next year. All our family is here, but we need a change by far… 😆You are just a hop and skip away from Carter, Alafia, and Balm. Morris is over your way as well, but that is a bit boring to us. If you ever get a chance, head up to Santos, that place is killer. We (wife and son that is) may be over at Alafia and Carter next weekend for a few days. I have to hit up Alafia, Carter and then Santos before we bug on out.. 😆
"ebjr" wroteAs luck would have it, I was laid off the week after we bought them and have since had to move the family back to Florida…not completely terrible since we liked FL a lot more than TX anyway. However the LBS does not have shops in Florida which means I am on my own as far as maintenance goes, at least until I find a new job.
Sorry to hear that man….seriously! What a BUMMER!! 😢
BTW, what part of FL did you move back to? Or should I say where in FL do you live now?
I would think maybe the LBS where you purchase your bike has a lot to do with getting a chain-stay protector at purchase. Some LBS’s provide them with there bikes they sell at cost or free, while most do not. None of the ones around here do, but maybe if asked they would. Yeah, it is definitely something MTB’s do need, even SS set-up MTB’s (with vertical drop-outs that is) get some chain slap as well. Now, with horizontal drop-outs, you really do not need any chain-stay protector, as their should be no issue with chain slack to cause chain-stay damage or wear.
"lovemountainbiking12" wrotethat may be what the damage is on my frame..my chain has come off a few times and i thought it was that…so chain slap can damage the frame…mine has
Yes, this does damage to the chain-stay tube and can cause serious issues later on. It also can ruin a warranty if a chain=stay tube cracks or breaks and they know that there was no chain-stay protection. Just saying, as I have seen them turn down a warranty due to this…. 😉
"ebjr" wroteThanks for the quick replies!
There seems to be an important step that may have been missing from my break in period. I was never told to "burn the brakes in". Seems odd, but then again, I am new to this…so burning them in is apparently part of the break-in process. Although I have only had it for 2 months, I would have expected this to happen naturally but I guess that is not the case…so I did a few thing that I found on the LBS website and it seems to have helped, and they also mentioned that its still getting broken-in. so we shall see. I went riding shortly after and I did notice a difference. I also had a 16yr veteran check them out and all seemed good. I will give it some time before I worry about it again.I finally stepped up to blue trails today and am now OCD about reducing chain slap…holy crap that’s freak’n annoying!
It is not "burn the brakes in", it is called…"burnishing brake pads". This needs to be done on vehicle brake pads as well, but of course that step takes far less time to burnish the pads than burnishing MTB disc brake pads. One good way to get rid of that glaze is to finely sandpaper the pads, but also the rotors as well in a circular motion. Of course, you will have to burnish the pads in again, because when you do this step, it is like having brand new pads and rotor.
As per that most annoying chain slap, inner tube is always good, but Lizard Skin makes an awesome chain slap guard that you can easily take off and on. I have them on all my bikes, and it is by far more quite, but also saves destruction to the chain-stay tube.
Too add to Madd….
Check your rear wheel to see if the QR-axle (or bolt down axle) is tight. Check to see if your rear caliper is tight as well.
Also, what size rotor do you have in the rear. A lot of time having a larger rotor either front or rear will cause this vibration (you spoke of) while applying your brakes, even when the brakes are modulating just fine. With larger rotors, this tends to do this on smaller XC wheels. Check with your LBS and explain this to them, and they can help you better than we. You may have to take your bike up there for them to physically look at it though. It is always good to have an open communication and relationship with your LBS, and most times when you have built this relationship with them, they sometimes don’t charge you.
I have this with my LBS (though we have like 6 LBS’s locally), I choose one and stuck with them, and it has paid off. Great bunch of guys and owners, and they care. Most times they do not even charge me. I love it… 😆
One thing of great importance, is to maintain regular maintenance on your bikes (if you or your LBS), as this will alleviate future issues, and keep you riding Never hurts to watch a few YouTube video’s on bike maintenance as Madd mentioned, as you will learn a lot by doing that.
Surprised not to hear this one, but here in the SE type terrain (especially in the SC and NC terrains), the Maxxis Ardent (Folding Tire) is a solid front or rear tire all the way. Rolls pretty fast due to lower rolling resistance, traction is off the hook, variable air pressure control, holds tight in dry, wet, or loose soil…especially when railing berms, switchbacks, or half-cambers at speed or slow poking.
Well, both of those hubs are strong and durable hubs, though I feel that CK is a bit overrated and also overinflated on their prices. I would rather fly with an Industrial 9. I have had CK, and yes, they are strong and look good, but I have also had some issues with them. I changed over to the Industrial 9 (I-9) hubs, and i will never look back again. They are instant engagement (due to their high paw contact points), purr like a kitten (per say) or as famously known….the sound of angry bee’s…lol. In the long run, it comes down to personal preference, especially when it comes to cost. I-9’s are so rock solid and come in an array of colors. The DT Swiss are good, and at a more affordable price range, but I have heard issues with them. However, that is just things I have just heard of the DT Swiss hubs.
Not sure if this helped, but I am sure someone else will chime in as well. BTW, Hope Pro’s are good hubs as well. Profile also makes some durable MTB hubs now as well, but they are loooooud… 😆
-
AuthorPosts