So what does your bike weigh? Not to brag or be any better than another, but to learn from one another tricks to cutting unneeded weight from our rigs. Maybe we can share: the make & model, year, full suspension vs hardtail, wheel size (diameter), “type” of bike as you see it (e.g. xc, trail, enduro, fat), weight, anything that may especially be contributing to the weight (good or bad) and then any helpful comments. For example, I’m riding (still):
Ibis Mojo HD, 2012, enduro bike, full suspension, 26″, 31.1lb.
Adding to the weight negatively: 3x drivetrain (at least it’s the XTR set =) ), 160 fox front fork, and a dropper post.
Subtracting from the weight substantially: full carbon, carbon bars, 26″ tires, 160mm rotors, titanium pedals (DMR Vault Mg Ti Superlights).
The Superlights were one of my best upgrades to reduce weight. They have a large platform, awesome grips, and only weigh 290g for the pair. I got them on a great sale; they are terribly expensive otherwise. But they are not for heavy riders. Max recommended riding weight is like 185lb.
When I bought my Trek Full Stache, it came with heavy 1250gm 29×3.0 Enduro tires and I switched to lighter 1000gm 29×2.8 Trail tires. I also traded the dropper post for a solid post, put on a shorter stem, and a smaller chainring. I estimate that I reduced the overall bike weight by about 1000gm (2+ pounds). My bike now weighs ~32 pounds.
I built my FS 26″ trail bike. Weighs 29 pounds with 6061 frame, dropper post and the pedals. Most of the weight reduction focus was on my front air suspension, rear air shock and XT drive train. I try and shave grams where I can without sacrificing durability.
31lbs with Schwalbe Super Gravity tires and FTD inserts. I’ve got one of those Chinese carbon frames (dengfu fm288), 26″ carbon Nextie wheels, DVO Diamond, XO cranks, Zee derailleur with a Oneup Rad cage and a bunch of ti hardware. I could save over half a pound by trading my KS Eten for a lighter post but it cost me $100 and is still going just fine after 5 years. Definitely not a flyweight, but absolutely dependable for the abuse I have put it through over the years.
I honestly don’t know how much my bikes weigh. To me, it comes down to how fast/nimble the bike feels. For my Kona, when I switched from stock wheels to the Arch MK3s I doubt I saved much weight but the bike sure felt “lighter” and faster and my ride times seem to bear that out. By the same token, I never felt the added weight when I installed a dropper even though I know it was heavier than the stock post. Yet the dropper significantly added to the quality of my rides.
For all those that are hyper-focused on shaving a few grams here and there, wouldn’t it be a lost more cost-effective to lose a couple of pounds off their mid-section???
So that brings me to a related question: does anyone know what the impact differential is between shaving 100 grams off the frame/components of a bike vs the wheels/tires? What’s implied in the question is whether there is a relative difference between rotational weight vs. overall load.
* 2005 Fox F100 air fork ( by far the biggest weight savings and bang for the buck)
* XTR 9 speed cassette… while it lasted. (this was surprisingly a big weight factor)
* Heavy ass pedals
* WTB Lazer disc xc wheels
* My fat ass +200lbs.
I wouldn’t base any purchases off of weight savings alone unless I was a serious contender in the race scene. That being said, some things really do add up and can make the difference of you cleaning that climb or pushing your bike up it. I think that tires and wheels are the best spots to save weight if you have the opportunity.
Carbon Lite Renthal bars, 55mm Apex stem, DT swiss X430 XC rim, DT 340 hubs, 2.3 Schwalbe addix Racing Ralph (R) Nobby Nic (F), 1×11 NX with Race Face Aeffect cranks, Saint BB, Tektro brakes, Factory transfer dropper post, Factory F29 100mm fork, Volt pro saddle, Chester platform pedals.