trail bike for $1000-$2000

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    • #109657

      I have $1000-$2000. Need a hill climber with a stiff frame that is durable and built to last. I would love a full suspension 29er, but can settle for hardtail 29ers to get in my price range. I ride single track with lots of technical turns and climbing but hope to take this to Utah for Xterra Championships. Just need some brands and models to look at.
      Save the comments ripping on how there are no good bikes under $2000 please. The only brand I don’t want is Trek, but I’m open to any other brand.
      thanks

    • #109658

      Pretty much every brand has a model or two in your price range. Go visit your local bike shops and test ride them.

    • #109659

      wow that was insightful. Thanks for the feedback. I never thought about going to the bike shop. Every company has a bike in my price range, but not every brand is quality or worth the money. I want help picking out the good from the bad. If you have feedback on that, please post, if not…..

    • #109660

      In that price range, there really aren’t any poor quality choices if you buy from a bike shop. The parts will be almost exactly the same for each brand at a give price in that range. The geometry and fit and handling will be a little different, hence the need to ride them yourself.

      For example, at the ~$2,000 price you have the Giant XTC 1 vs Specialized Carve Pro.
      both 29ers
      Only a $50 difference in price
      Both aluminum hardtails
      Both have a similar level drivetrains (X7/X9 vs Deore/XT)
      Both have low/mid level hydro disc brakes
      The forks are different, the giant has a thru-axle and 100mm whereas the Specialized has a QR and 80mm
      http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bik … 031/48895/
      http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBC … e=Mountain

      At the ~$1400 price you’ll find the same similarities and differences.

      All you’re going to get here is brand preference, which really isn’t that meaningful. Which is generally just an "I ride Brand X and it hasn’t broke, and it rulz, so you should get one too!" sorta thing.

    • #109661
      "dgaddis" wrote

      All you’re going to get here is brand preference, which really isn’t that meaningful. Which is generally just an "I ride Brand X and it hasn’t broke, and it rulz, so you should get one too!" sorta thing.

      I believe that’s what’s being requested. 😆

    • #109662
      "maddslacker" wrote

      [quote="dgaddis":21dnc0wm]All you’re going to get here is brand preference, which really isn’t that meaningful. Which is generally just an "I ride Brand X and it hasn’t broke, and it rulz, so you should get one too!" sorta thing.

      I believe that’s what’s being requested. 😆[/quote:21dnc0wm]

      Lol yeah I guess it was!

      And while im with dgaddis on this one, to be honest, the airborne goblin offers a great spec for the money–way ahead of the bigger name brands.

    • #109663

      Where are you going to buy it? If you are planning on buying off the internet than you got your work cut out for you trying to hone in on something due to the amount of choices..Good luck.. However, you will have no follow up service and if something breaks under warranty good luck dealing with that as well. If you are going to buy it from a LBS they will be there to support you and the bike etc.
      If you go the LBS route than just like dgaddis said, you need to visit them and ask questions. Each one carries different brands and some of the same brands… These guys see many different bikes and know what ones suck and what ones are good.
      I can tell you how awesome my 2005 Jeep Laredo is too but it doesn’t mean shat. Wouldn’t you rather hear a mechanics view of a 2005 Jeep Laredo though??
      I can tell you I love my Redline 29er hardtail.. its fugnawesome! And… Redline in conjunction with my LBS have stood behind the product as well.

      Go shopping and narrow it down to a few brands/models then come ask the internet about those few brands..

    • #109664

      I’ll get this from the LBS for sure. buy local!
      i’m leaning toward the Specialize Carve Expert at $1650 or maybe the kona Kahuna Deluxe.
      Any other brands that would compare to these that I should consider?
      also what peddles would you recommend that are easy in and out? I need new shoes too?

    • #109665
      "Easycompany506" wrote

      I’ll get this from the LBS for sure. buy local!
      i’m leaning toward the Specialize Carve Expert at $1650 or maybe the kona Kahuna Deluxe.
      Any other brands that would compare to these that I should consider?
      also what peddles would you recommend that are easy in and out? I need new shoes too?

      Man…you’re just trying to open every MTB forum debate ever in one thread hahahaha 😆

      I like CrankBrothers pedals. A lot of people have had durability issues with them, but a lot of people haven’t too.

      Time pedals seem to be bomb proof, but are heavy. You put them on your bike and that’s it. They just work, forever, with no maintenance.

      The new Shimano XT pedals seem to get a lot of good reviews. They don’t look like they’d clear mud as well as some others, but the tension is adjustable which would be nice I think.

      And yes, you’ll need shoes. Each pedal manufacturer uses their own cleat design (the cleat is what bolts to the shoe and actually engages the pedal) BUT, all the cleats have the same bolt pattern and will bolt to any brand shoe.

      I like Specialized shoes. Mine have held up really well so far (2yrs of use so far) and I like the ‘varus wedge’ in the insole, helps keep your knees aligned better when pedaling.

      One more thing…when shopping for a bike, don’t forget the Shop Factor. Buy from a shop you like, and that you wont mind dealing with in the future. That can be enough of a factor to sway your decision if it comes down to two bikes you really like.

    • #109666

      Just walk into the local shop, put $2,000 on the counter, and tell them to outfit you head to toe. Whatever they suggest, just take it. You’re way over-thinking this.

    • #109667

      is it worth the extra cash to jump from the Carve to the low end stumpjumper?
      http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBC … nuItemId=0
      http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBC … e=Mountain

      $1650 vs $2000 is a big jump. Just curious how these compare from people that have rode them on the trails.

    • #109668

      Your Stumpjumper link is broken, so it’s not clear which of the many stumpy’s you’re looking at.

      Assuming it’s the $2,200 Comp model, the frame geometry is the same, so the fit and ride will be the same. The components are better on the Stumpy, but they are not bad on the Carve. If it was me I would buy the Carve, have $$ leftover for gear, and then upgrade the parts of the Carve as needed down down the road.

      Actually that’s not true, everyone who knows me knows that I would buy a Giant xTC… 😆

    • #109669
      "maddslacker" wrote

      Your Stumpjumper link is broken, so it’s not clear which of the many stumpy’s you’re looking at.

      Assuming it’s the $2,200 Comp model, the frame geometry is the same, so the fit and ride will be the same. The components are better on the Stumpy, but they are not bad on the Carve. If it was me I would buy the Carve, have $$ leftover for gear, and then upgrade the parts of the Carve as needed down down the road.

      Actually that’s not true, everyone who knows me knows that I would buy a Giant xTC… 😆

      +1

      If you wanted to spend $2200 I’d get the Carve and some better tubeless wheels.

    • #109670

      I am unconvinced that there is much difference at all between brands — beyond personal preferences. Statistically, some may be more durable than others, but you are not gonna get much insight on that here. I can tell you that Trek road bikes are the best because I have ridden many thousands of miles on mine for the past 16 years with no problems, but that is just one man’s experience. Then next person you ask might tell you his frame broke in two the first time he hit a pothole. Neither his, nor my own, experience really tells you much about what to expect if you were to buy one.

      I would go with what fits you best, and what components are best, within the budget you have to work with.

    • #109671
      "bsheidler" wrote

      I would go with what fits you best, and what components are best, within the budget you have to work with.

      In the same price range, they have basicly the same parts. It all comes down, which bike fits you the best

    • #109672

      I am with Spartan.I love my Redline SS.I put a carbon fork & bars on,such a nice ride.My opinion,gears & suspension is just overkill & maintenance that is just time & money.Besides the fitness that comes with 1 gear is amazing.

    • #109673

      I have a Jamis Exile Race, that I believe lists for $1574 plus tax with no pedals. It came with decent Hayes brakes, a Shimano SLX Drivetrain, Ritchey seatpost, bars, and stem, and a good stock saddle ( I actually liked it more than my WTB saddles I had in the garage.) This is my fourth Jamis buy and I have been extremely happy with what you get for the money. I see other bikes that are more expensive but are spec’d a whole lot cheaper. You might give one a try if you have a dealer nearby.
      Good luck in your search!

    • #109674
      "5kidmonty" wrote

      I am with Spartan.I love my Redline SS.I put a carbon fork & bars on,such a nice ride.My opinion,gears & suspension is just overkill & maintenance that is just time & money.Besides the fitness that comes with 1 gear is amazing.

      I love my rigid SS too, but, for most people it really isn’t the ideal bike, especially if you’re only going to have one bike.

    • #109675

      I bought the Scott Spark Team 29er… Mistake! It is so chock-full of piss-poor components, that I am fighting with the store to take it back and give me a hard tail witha t least a couple parts worth keeping. But this thing did not have one part that I didn’t want to immediately upgrade. Some bikes in this range are so full of scrap parts, that I can’t find one for under $3000 that I would even consider riding competitively. :?:

    • #109676
      "John_Hughes" wrote

      Some bikes in this range are so full of scrap parts, that I can’t find one for under $3000 that I would even consider riding competitively. :?:

      I think that makes you bike snob. There’s plenty of sub $3k bikes that are very nice.

      Bikes don’t win races. Riders do. You certainly can’t spend your way to the podium.

    • #109677
      "John_Hughes" wrote

      … It is so chock-full of piss-poor components, that I am fighting with the store to take it back and give me a hard tail witha t least a couple parts worth keeping. But this thing did not have one part that I didn’t want to immediately upgrade.

      Did it not have these parts when you bought it? Did the shop bait and switch you on components? It sounds like you didn’t fully research your purchase before buying.

    • #109678

      I bought the best of what I could afford. I am disabled from being struck by a speeding car, I used to race very seriously! It took me years to walk again. I knew some of the parts on the Scott were low-end. I didn’t realize how low-end until I used the bike in a race. I am far from ever being on the podium do to my injuries… metal rods in my legs, rebuilt digestive system. I just love to ride and compete to try and become even a shadow of my former self.
      Now, I was answering the question with my opinion. If you disagree that there are bikes in this price range worth avoiding… just say so. If you think I’m spoiled because I began Mtb racing 1988 and now can’t afford the parts that will last me more than one weekend. You can go suck yourself! 😃

    • #109679
      "John_Hughes" wrote

      If you think I’m spoiled because I began Mtb racing 1988 and now can’t afford the parts that will last me more than one weekend.

      hmm, weird, my $1,600 full suspension 29er has been going for a number of weekends now and it hasn’t had any part failures.

      Another random example is the Giant xTC 29er…it retails for just about $2000 and comes with Sram X7/X9. That series isn’t as light as the X0 and XX stuff, but it’s every bit as durable.

      Anyway, have fun with your trolling. I’m going out to ride my sub-$2000 bike…

    • #109680

      To Everyone:
      You are allowed to disagree with each other, but please keep things civil. Openly insulting people will not be tolerated.

    • #109681
      "dgaddis" wrote

      [quote="John_Hughes":128183gp]Some bikes in this range are so full of scrap parts, that I can’t find one for under $3000 that I would even consider riding competitively. :?:

      I think that makes you bike snob. There’s plenty of sub $3k bikes that are very nice.

      Bikes don’t win races. Riders do. You certainly can’t spend your way to the podium.[/quote:128183gp]

      Correct. There are nice bikes, and no matter what you spend, it’s not gona help you win unless you train hard.(who knew?) Most of the bikes available in the set price, especially those with good component packages, have sold-out this year. Not that there aren’t bikes worth riding. I have checked from Stumpjumpers to HighBallers and many others. They are sold out! Sorry it bothers you that I can’t find any available in my size in this country that haven’t been snatched up already. DERP!

    • #109682

      I dont really get involved with races so ignore my comment if you’d like but….

      I bought my bike back 08′ when i was in college. It’s an ironhorse warrior 4.0 frame. I got it fully built and paid $750 for it online. Yes the components on it sucked for a while and over the course of time I either broke, shattered, or slap wore it all out. My plan was that as part after part wore and broke I’d just replace em with either bigger, better, or cooler parts. For example, my rear derailluer just gave out, but it was the original one that came on the bike, and four years later I’m just now having to deal with it (got my money’s worth out of the derailluer in my opinion). All i’m saying is that I bought the bike for its frame mainly, but at the same time I wanted something that would get me riding immediately. And now, slowly but surely over time, I have re-built the bike replacing what i would say is 95% of every piece that was originally on it. I now have what i consider an awesome bike for the riding that I do. When i read this post it made me want to add up and see how much total I have sank into this bike. That total came to just under $1500. That’s including the original purchase of the bike and i couldn’t be more happy about what I have put together. If you get a bike that gets you riding but has low end components, why not consider a slow build like what i just tried to describe?

      Again you can choose to just ignore this all and it wouldn’t hurt my feelings 😀

    • #109683

      Guys can we have a review/info on Scott Comp 29 FS?

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