I mostly ride on some hills right next to where i live.Single tracks
that have a total length about 15km,with some fire roads.Mostly xc
style.In the warm months,May to September,i ride 3-5 days/week.I
participate (not for competition) on 3or4 xc races about 30-55km per
year.And i also like to participate on an enduro race.My current ride
is an obsolete gt iDrive 4.Frame is 2004 and components 2008 and
newer.3×9 speed (22t smallest chainring and 36 biggest
sprocket).Almost 16kg.I use the 36×22 quite often on big climps,so i
decided to get a bike with the sram eagle 1×12.I dont like xc bikes.I
want to be able do some small jumbs and some technical descents.
I’ve looked at most bikes and narrowed it down to 3 bikes i like.My
budget is max 4000 euro,but i feel better spending less than that.
1.JEFFSY CF PRO 29
The jeffsy 27.5 and 29.YT states that both are at the same weight,so
going for 29 doesnt mean a heavier bike.I see xc racers all have 29er
bikes and ride very fast even with the hardtails.But i’m afraid it
would not handle enduro style events that easy.
2.SPECTRAL CF 9.0 EX
27.5,light and has all the components i like.But i cant justify
almost 1000euros more over the al version for about 500gr less.
3.SPECTRAL AL 7.0 EX
The best value for me.
The canyon bikes seem to me better equiped and i also can use any
water bottle i want not he proprietary yt.
Bonus question.Which ever bike i’ll buy i will convert it right away
to tubeless.Scenario: i’m out on the trail and get a flat.How do i
repair a tubeless flat?Just pump it up?Have a spare tube with me?Or
are there specific tubeless patches?
I’d personally go with the CF Spectral 9.0 but you stated that the extra $$ wasn’t worth it to you so in that case, I’d use go with the aluminum version since reading between the lines, it seems like that’s the one you want.
Tubeless is easy once you get the process down. MOST people repair a tubeless flat by throwing a tube in the tire. However, some people are starting to carry plug kits which allow you to air up your tire again and keep moving. There are also patches but I’ve only read about them so don’t know exactly how they work. I’ve never seen one in person.
If your leaning to the jeffsy, take the 27.5 . The 29er will pedal more efficiently, but the 27.5 will feel a lot more nimbler. The canyons also have a little bit of a steeper head angle, so they wont take impacts as good as the yt.
Bonus: use a tubeless plug kit or an innertube. plug kit will take longer to repair but you wont really have to worry about high tyre pressures.
I found out that on a 29er you have to put more effort (comparing same gears on a 27.5 and a 29),because of the larger wheels (perimeter,not weight).
for example a 27.5 bike with a 34 chainring and 50t largest cog has a ratio of 0.71.
A 29er with the same gears has a ratio of 0.74.
My current bike has a ratio of 0.61.What is your input?Will the newer geometry,less weight,less rolling resistance of a new bike make such a difference where the need for even lower gears is redundant?