Chain lube – mixed your own formula?

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    • #220832

      If you do what’s in it? Successful?

      All the lubes out there over the years all a bit well disappointing in one way or another for some $$$.

      I have mixed my own but I think it just comes down to clean apply whatever lube frequently.

      The really disappointing ones are the ones that see a few puddles and just disappear.

    • #220838

      Don’t mix my own, I use good ‘ol DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant.  I got tired of those boutique lubes from White Lightning, Pedro’s, Finish Line, blah blah blah ….and spending cash for nothing special.

      I’ve found that this stuff from DuPont is: Super lightweight, easy to apply and super durable (for it’s weight)…it’s able to stand up to rain, swampy mud and snow.

      I now use it on my road, commuter and MTB.

    • #220891

      WD-40. It’s cheap and cleans as well.

    • #220904

       

      Hmmm, never had much luck with WD-40 as a lube (I’ve never used it on my bikes)….but it does clean well (auto-parts in my case).

    • #220907

      Chain lubes have very little affect on overall on efficiency. Sure, they keep dirt from migrating into a drivetrain off road which in turn may reduce friction, but the effect is limited. Hence, why I’ve never really gotten too hung up on chain lubes especially expensive ones making spurious claims. I recommend to employ one that is easy to use, predictable, inexpensive and simple to clean up. Wax lubes void that final edict for me thus I actively avoid them. Finish Line Dry has been my go to for years. It meets all the above criteria. I do keep some of the Finish Line Wet around for really sloppy rides, but rarely use it. Lastly you can find this stuff anywhere.

      • #220931

        Interesting mix of experiences. I’ve tried purple extreme (“used on oil rigs at sea”), dry lubes, teflon, wet lines, water based lubes, white lightning (yes got hooked by the name) etc

        One of the better lubes was by Scotoiler which is a water based lubricant + feed system onto the lower gear jockey. A bit unsightly but showed a little and often squirt (squeeze a little reservoir of lube) kept the chain running smoothly.  They still do a system (electronic version for motorcycles).

        Now I am using http://www.artscyclery.com/Rock_N_Roll_Extreme_Chain_Lube_16oz_Complete_Kit/descpage-RNREL16.html

        Very thin but does cling to the chain

         

         

         

    • #220983

      I wouldn’t if I were you, so many compatibility issues with different products.  You could easily have adverse reactions.  My dad was always a big “mixer” of cleaning solvents.  Gassed himself a couple of times when inadvertently mixing bleach containing cleaners with ammoniated cleaners, resulting in Chlorine gas!  Not saying you will have a dangerous reaction but may lessen the quality of lube.  Let the pros/chemists do it.

      • #221160

        I was talking about lubing the chain not cleaning the chain. “Ga damm this chain is not clean enough!” Lol

        Yes agree mixing stuff have to be careful and aware.

    • #220989

      @triton189:  “…mixing bleach containing cleaners with ammoniated cleaners, resulting in Chlorine gas!”

      Forget doping for better race results. Go with making toxic gas to unleash on your competitors. Chemical warfare is racing next level stuff.

    • #221185

      3:1 Mineral Spirits/Regular Motor Oil (5w-30). People like to use Mobil1, cause of some additive that helps retention hoopla. Honestly its mostly all the same. I read somewhere that a dude was using just straight 0-20w for those new hybrids, maybe a 2:1 ratio?

      Don’t use Moto chain lube, smarter people than myself have said it’s designed for much higher speed applications, and is way too thick and sticky for bikes.

      If you think these lube companies are mixing exotic oil concoctions just for your precious bike chain you’d be let down. They just mix, add-in or use whatever large industries as laying around on the shelf. The only way its worth their time is to overcharge for the most basic and simple to produce product. The same way the industry just rebadges Moto Suspension fluid and charges your triple the price, or how Sram Butter is rebadged Slickoleum at three times the price, red Sram grease is rebadged military grease. They put more thought into their label than the actual product.

      But if you feel like mixing mineral spirits and motor oil might result in a chlorine gas cloud, you could always just get Tri-Flow. It’s usually the cheapest, and best lube on any chain lube shelf.

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