29plus wheel set carbon or aluminum

Forums Mountain Bike Forum 29plus wheel set carbon or aluminum

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This topic contains 12 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  Plusbike Nerd 11 months, 1 week ago.

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  • #231349

    I am looking at buying a set of 29plus wheels for my trek farley 9.  My budget is $700-$1000.  I have a quote from light cycle for $888 shipped. They weigh 1800 g +- .  I know I could get a wheel set through Stans for around the same price.  They would be heavier because they are aluminum. I just wanted to know if I should go Chinese carbon over aluminum Stans. Thanks

  • #231352

    Tough decision. I see the Stans Sentry MK3 29er wheel set weighs 1963g, so it’s 163g heavier. But, it’s $189 cheaper, and potentially more durable, not just because it’s aluminum, but also because it’s from an arguably more reputable company.

    What kind of hubs do the Light Bicycle wheels have on them? This can make a big difference in the cost of a wheel set, sometimes more than the cost of the rims themselves.

  • #231376

    I am a fan of LB rims. I would suggest that for about the same price you could buy the rims from them and have a local builder lace them for optimum quality control. This is exactly what I did and those wheels were/are bombproof. The only reason I am not still riding them is that I moved onto a 29er. The person I sold them to is still on them 3.5 years after they were built. Finally, I highly recommend going with a 32h, 3 cross lacing and Hope hubs for strength, functionality, durability and economy.

  • #231379

    I tried some ENVE 29er carbon rims this fall from a guy who works at a LBS and had them on sale for a great price. After all the hoopla I had read about carbon rims I personally wasn’t as impressed as I had honestly hoped to be. I WANTED them to be all and more I had heard. I ended up buying this set below for $750 and am as thrilled as I can be on them. I have Hope hubs on them as well as my 27.5+ wheels for my Santa Cruz HT and wouldn’t have any other hub as they are very durable and strong. I’m not a weight weenie but if you are then something like this may not be in your wheelhouse.

    Hope Pro 4 hubs w/ DT Swiss XM481 rim
    .Sapim Race spokes w/ brass nipples
    .Tubeless kit included
    .1950g (approx)

  • #231393

    What @dr.Sweets said. I haven’t used LB personally, but they have built a good reputation.

    Here are some other options to consider:

    10 Mountain Bike Wheelsets for Almost Any Budget

  • #231395

    The hubs that LB had in the quote were DT swiss 350 big ride. I am not a weight weenie obviously because i ride a fat bike.  I just read online that some people prefer carbon to aluminum.  I have no experience with carbon.  Since I am spending money on another set of wheels I wanted to make sure I was getting some thing that would serve me well

     

     

  • #231460

    @kenwrightjr: “I tried some ENVE 29er carbon rims this fall from a guy who works at a LBS and had them on sale for a great price. After all the hoopla I had read about carbon rims I personally wasn’t as impressed as I had honestly hoped to be. I WANTED them to be all and more I had heard.”

    I have always found ENVE wheels to be overrated for their cost. The aforementioned LB wheelset I had outperformed/-lasted many friends wheelsets (including ENVE’s) that were 2-3X as expensive. The biggest mistake I see riders make is getting caught up in the ultralight everything mode which easy to fall for with pretty carbon bits. My old wheels were a reasonable weight (about 1800g), but not crazy light by any measure. However, they felt great and were really fast not to mention bombproof. I never once flatted with them (yes, set up tubeless and I ran 24/28PSI in them which considering my size, riding style and 160mm travel sled of a bike seems improbable), they never went out of true and I only broke spoke when a branch became stuck in my wheel. Party.

  • #231461

    I’ve stuck with aluminum as I tend to bash rear rims. My current rear rim has dings and dents in it and I should be replacing soon, but I’m still running tubeless on it and I’ll use it till I can’t. I’m sure a carbon rim could take the abuse better, but when the carbon cracks, as I’ve seen with friends who have them, you most likely have to replace. Price difference is way to much right now, your talking $100 aluminum rim to a $400 carbon rim.

    I’ll stick with Aluminum till the price drops on carbon.

  • #231463

    I had Dustin- http://southernwheelworks.com -build me a set of Velocity Duallys(aluminum)/Wheelsmith/White Industries hubs for my Krampus when it first came out. I was well over 200 lbs then and they are still rocking strong! You might want to see what he can do for you.

  • #250912

    I’m looking to upgrade from aluminum to a carbon wheelset. I’ve found a solid review on Enve Wheels, https://thetriathletehub.com/enve-wheels/ however, after reading some comments seems like it may be worth going with some other options?

  • #250936

    I had a 29er+ wheelset built up for my Salsa Beargrease.  I went with Stan’s Barons rims with Hope hubs.  I priced out the Chinese carbon wheels and the cost was comparable.  Since I’ve had really good experiences with my Arch MK3s I went with the Barons and I’ve been pleased with their performance.  Based on how I use this bike and the trails I ride it on I’m not sure carbon wheels would make a meaningful difference.

  • #250942

    DT Swiss is a good hub…On my aluminum frame bike, I recently upgraded to a wider set of DT Swiss aluminum rims from my stock wheelset and there is some stiffness improvement but it wasn’t a night and day difference….I am running wider tires on the new rims so it wasn’t a true apples to apples comparison…

    Then…I got to demo a nice set of Reynolds carbon rims for a few days and rode a lot on them.  The additional stiffness in the carbon rims was closer to a night and day comparison from my aluminum set.   The rear wheel stiffness was appreciated especially when climbing.  The front wheel stiffness actually took a little longer to get used to.  I ended up taking a little air out of my fork after the changeover.   I felt like my hands were getting more feedback with the carbon front rim.

    The carbon rims definitely made my whole aluminum bike feel stiffer…closer to the feel of a full carbon bike.  I got me thinking that an aluminum bike with carbon wheels is probably better/stiffer than a carbon bike with aluminum wheels; but that was just my impression at the time.   My next wheelset will likely be carbon but I’m in no rush to put my relatively new aluminum wheelset in junk pile just yet either…..

  • #250948

    I am not going to recommend a specific brand. Instead, I want to recommend a specific size. Let me start of by saying that any tire wider than 2.8in and any rim wider than i35mm (i=inner width) should be sent to the graveyard of outdated tech. You just don’t need anything wider! The 2.8 tire—i35 rim combo does everything wider rims and tires do but with less weight and rolling resistance. I am particularly fond of rims in the i30-35 width range because they pair well with tires in the 2.4-2.8 width range which gives you the versatility to use different tire widths. (The i35 rim also pairs well with 3.0 tires.) If you choose aluminum, I’ve put many miles on Sun Ringle Duroc and WTB Asym rims (both i35) and I’ve had zero problems with either. I have also been using the 29×2.8 Teravail Coronados and they are the best 29+ tires I have every ridden—much better than the many 29×3.0 tires I have tried. Trust me—no rims wider than i35 and no tires wider than 2.8!!!

    Years ago, I also also converted my Farley with Bluto fork to 29+ and I liked it so much that I retired my full-suspension Narrowbike. Now, I ride a 29+ full-suspension Trek Full Stache which is incredible. Since 29+ came out, I’ve never enjoyed riding more!

    If you are not using your old Fat wheels any more, you could build up your new wheels with the hubs you already have and save some money. That’s what I did.

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