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New chain causing problems

 
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BU10May




Joined: 05 Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: New chain causing problems Reply with quote

I replaced my chain today, and putting it on was a snap. I put an 8-speed SRAM chain on my hardrock. The chain seems a little loose. but here are the problems i have.

on the first set of gears, the rear derailleur is so retracted that the chain rubs on the arm of the derialleur. Also, the front derailleur rubs in the highest set of gears. I have adjusted the High screw for the front derailleur to no avail.

Where should I go from here? I have played with the H and L adjustments (front and rear) and nothing has really changed. The main problem is the lowest set of gears and the chain rubs on itself on the rear derailleur.

any advice would be greatly appreciated

thanks
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spazjensen




Joined: 21 May 2008
Posts: 410
Location: Smiths Station, AL

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just wondering. not saying that you did this wrong or anything..but your bike does have an 8 speed drivetrain right. not a 9 or something else?
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BU10May




Joined: 05 Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea it has an 8 speed drive, i should have mentioned that
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spazjensen




Joined: 21 May 2008
Posts: 410
Location: Smiths Station, AL

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm....

so is your chain to loose or to tight?

also what chain ring do you have it on up front?

if its to loose what would happen if you just take a couple of links out, but not to much that it cause probs for you higher gears.
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BU10May




Joined: 05 Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is on the loose side, i think if any, take 1 link out as 2 might be too much. I have a truvativ 42 tooth chainring. I was hoping i wouldnt have to take any links out but i might have to.
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steve32300

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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 809
Location: Arvada, CO

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you cut your new chain to the same length as the old chain?Sounds like it is too long.
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BU10May




Joined: 05 Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wont be able to do that as my old chain got misplace. I need to get a chain tool to remove some links. I think I might start out with two links. Thanks for the advice
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castnpedal




Joined: 28 Apr 2006
Posts: 27
Location: Sacramento, CA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what the mighty Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance reference says about determining chain length when you have a standard, long cage derailleur:

Wrap the chain around the biggest chainring and biggest cog without going through either derailleur, bring the chain ends together until they overlap one full link - that should be your chain length.
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steve32300

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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
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Location: Arvada, CO

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go BU10may,this link is to Park Tools "How To" section on how to install a chian,

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

castnpedal has a good point,a book such as the one he suggests is a handy thing to have around when working on your bike.
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maddslacker




Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 695
Location: Parker, CO

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

castnpedal wrote:
This is what the mighty Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance reference says about determining chain length when you have a standard, long cage derailleur:

Wrap the chain around the biggest chainring and biggest cog without going through either derailleur, bring the chain ends together until they overlap one full link - that should be your chain length.


Never knew that, but it sounds like a great tip. I'm going to try it next time!

As for a chain tool, I got a Crank Bros multi-17 multi tool that includes a chain breaker. I don't break chains all that often so it's adequate, and I needed a trail tool anyway. The tool is usually $20 or less.
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cjm




Joined: 17 Jan 2005
Posts: 162
Location: Lakewood, CO

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bu10, lemme see whether I understand your problem. When you shift to the larger cogs on the cassette, the freewheel on the derailleur is too close to the cassette. If that is your problem, then high and low adjustments won't fix it. A third screw is located near the derailleur hanger. "Tighten" this screw to increase the gap between the freewheel and the cassette. If this fixes it, read on.

Replacing your chain shouldn't cause a change to the gap adjustment. Did you break the old chain? If you did, you might have bent the derailleur hanger. You'll need to straighten the hanger, or replace it. After you straighten it, you need to dial the changer again from scratch.

Have you checked this before? The rule of thumb is 1/2 inch between the freewheel and the cassette, but the instructions for your changer could vary. If this was set properly, you should be capable of accommodating any chain. Were it set to close before, then a newer, fatter chain, might be causing your contact problem.
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BU10May




Joined: 05 Oct 2009
Posts: 7
Location: Bloomsburg, PA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a few links out and it seemed better, i will take a few more out. I did break the old chain, but i dont think the hanger is bent.
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eric-29er




Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 91
Location: Houston, TX

PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JUst a lesson learn here, New chains almost always are a couple links too long. Alway cut a new chain to the same lenght as the old one befroe you put it on. It sounds like you didn;lt do this.

Glad you gt it fixed though
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