Interbike is a fascinating place, and if you ever get the chance to stroll through the booths you will find tons of fascinating products. Jeff and I were both really impressed with some of the things we saw, and at other times we were thoroughly unimpressed by some of the downright-ridiculous designs. We made sure to swing by most of our usual stops to chat with folks such as e*thirteen, Fox, iXS, Spank, SRAM, Shimano, Intense, Santa Cruz, Osprey, THE, and Easton. Interbike is seriously the greatest when it comes to getting a sneak peak at the latest gear and talking with your favorite riders.

e*thirteen

One of my first stops was at the e*thirteen booth. It’s hard to believe you can improve on such a great crank, but e*thirteen managed to squeeze 60 grams out of last year’s design by using an alloy axle and machining a little bit off the spider here and there. Not only did the crank just go through a weight reduction, but they also managed to change up the bottom bracket, making it more durable and easier to install.

Along with the cranks, there are two clever new pedals from e*thirteen: the LG1+ and LG1R. The pedals feature an alloy body, plates that attach to the pedal, and user-selectable 4mm or 7mm pins. The LG1R has titanium spindles and pins while the LG1+ features chromoly. The difference in weight between the two pedals is 88 grams (380g and 468g, respectively).

Race Face

Hard Goods

Race Face was at the show, but you had to look really hard to find their booth. Essentially the hard goods line-up has changed ever so slightly with the introduction of the Chester cranks. The Chester is basically Race Face’s entry-level DH crank, the Respond is their mid-level, and the Atlas is their top-tier DH crank.

Race Face is also getting ready to launch the SIXC, which is a new DH crank modified with a longer-than-average axle. The SIXC cranks will be lighter than the new XO DH coming out from SRAM and the rubber boots are a nice addition meant to save the crank ends from damage.

Soft Goods

I spent some time talking with Wendy from Race Face and she was proud to show off some of the clothing and protection that will be offered for next year. It looks like the trend is toward simple colors with large contrasting logos and neat argyle prints (kind of like the Singletracks jersey). Needless to say, Wendy (who also does the design work) has done a great job at making gear that will look cool for both men and women.

The new trend in MTB armor is softer, more flexible pieces and Race Face is on the ball with their Flank line-up. This soft wrap-around leg armor features a ton of excellent elements such as D3O on the impact points of the knee and shin and a Terry Cloth liner.

Stay tuned for more from RaceFace in the near future.

Niterider

A brilliant example of lighting at Interbike was Niterider. With all their lights out on display, this booth really was a beacon in a sea of bike gear. Niterider’s best and brightest, the Pro 3000 LED, uses 6 large Cree LEDs and a massive Li-Ion battery; the whole package retails for less than $700. Along with the top model, Niterider has a light for just about every budget, including both rechargeable and non-rechargeable units. I had a chance to talk with Tom, the founder of Niterider, and it seemed that we both shared the same passion for good lighting systems and the conviction that there really weren’t any good bike lights available when Niterider started out.

FSA

FSA was displaying all of their 2012 gear nearby and the smell of high quality, nicely-finished carbon saturated the booth. The K-Force and SL-K gear for the XC-Trail rider may be a good idea for those looking to save some weight. I really appreciated the extensive use of uni-directional carbon in the products that were on display. The cranks feature a spine of aluminum to keep things stiff along with the monocoque structure that you see. With other carbon goodies in the form of bars, seat posts and stems, FSA was out to impress.

Ritchey 29er

Despite not being a big 29er fan, I just had to stop and stare a while at this beautiful 29er by Ritchey. For one thing, I owned one way back in the day that was made by Tom Ritchey himself, and my bike had the same “America F*$@ ya” paint job. I kinda miss that bike, and this beautiful ride, although very modern, still has that classic look to it. I found myself wishing I had the cash to pick one up.

From the integrated seat post clamp, to the adjustable rear dropouts that allow you to go either singlespeed or geared, to the highly-polished look, this bike really is a stunner. It’s a steel frame and has a projected cost of $999 (frame only). Depending how you build it up, you can get weights down to 21lbs for a single or 23lbs if you’re going with gears.

THE

THE was showing off their new colors for this year’s T2, along with some cool armor and gear. There’s a decent mix of mild to wild color schemes for you.

Loaded Precision

Loaded Precision was showing off a few new components for this year with their signature series wheels and pedals. For those of you who are interested, they will have a 150mm rear axle available soon in addition to all the present wheel configurations… and in a variety of colors to really pimp your bike out. Anthony from Loaded also mentioned the growing number of products in their XC line-up, including some fire-red 29er wheels!

Topeak

Topeak was there showing off their vast array of pumps and gear. Some interesting additions included a new chain tool called the Link Meister which is geared toward serious users and shops. The head on the Link Meister adjusts so that you can get the pins out perfectly straight without messing things up, thanks to an adjustable shoulder which cradles the chain in the link separator. A really robust set of mud guards for suspension bikes caught Jeff’s eye as well as mine. It may have been sheer fascination about the whole idea, but I have to say they looked pretty sweet. I was thinking about tossing a pair on my DH bike…

For the Apple fanboys and fangirls out there, Topeak showed an iPhone 4 (and now iPhone 4S) compatible stem mount. Unlike the other iPhone handlebar mounts we’ve seen and used, this one put the phone front and center and leaves a cut-out for the phone’s camera. Not only can you use your iPhone as a GPS/cycling computer, now you can use it as a POV camera. Brilliant!

Randomness

When you go to Interbike, you will inevitably come across some oddities along with all the cool ideas. Below is one such product in the making (which type is it? that’s up to you). Still a prototype, this 4-wheeled pedal bike features full independent suspension using Rock Shox Monarchs. As Jeff and I chatted with the owners, we did see many places were weight could be removed. Presently this bike is pushing over 50lbs.

Azonic

Azonic proudly displayed the Outlaw wheels, which have been their staple product for many years and are now available in a 29er version and in an expanded color line. Along with that were bars and stems in the same color patterns for that perfect match.

Azonic has partnered up with O’neal to produce some cool looking threads and skid lids. Their focus seems to be all about color and a mix of retro patterns with modern graphics.

Twenty6

Before the show started, I got an invitation to visit Twenty6. Twenty6 is a small, high tech company that machines kick ass gear. Not only is the gear super slick, but they also have some rich color choices.

Below is just a sample of different color options. I’ll have a review written up soon on the Predator pedals, so stay tuned!

Pro Riders

Remember when I mentioned that Interbike offers access to celebrity riders? Well, great riders like Matt Hunter and Darren Berrecloth were at the iXS booth for a while signing posters and chatting it up.

I even got to spend a little while chatting with Matt. Having limited time, I just had to ask him how he did a particular jump in Seasons where he boosted off a kicker into a loose wall of dirt… it looked absolutely crazy! I got him to talk about how he felt going into it for the first time. It turns out a mix of confidence and fear with a bunch of adrenaline thrown in motivated him. I was really impressed to hear that he is human like the rest of us. Just in case you’re wondering, you can meet Matt in Whistler yourself during the summer months at the Summer Gravity Camp.

iXS

Speaking of iXS, they had a great line up of new 2012 gear on display. With a huge range of colors and improvements, I can’t wait to see when they will all be available. The new METIS shown below looks even better up close. The additional pad in back provides a perfect mating to a Leatt brace, and it provides excellent ventilation.

Not only does iXS make cool helmets, but they also produce a bunch of hemispherical goggles that really rock. They offer a dozen graphic styles to match or clash your helmets. iXS’s gloves and clothing are definitely something to behold. This is one website you must visit.

Spank

Spank had a bunch of shiny, new parts on display as well. They had a prototype stem that I thought looked absolutely amazing! The stem was beautifully CNC-machined, but I was told by Gavin Vos, the co-owner of Spank, that it is just a sample and that the final forged unit will be even stronger. The introduction of complete wheels from Spank also really peaked my interest. Even though I have no issues lacing up my own wheels, a complete solution with both hubs and rims is something I personally like.

The new Spike bar with another Spike stem prototype on display.

Speaking of Spike, stay tuned for a review of the new Spike pedals which, based on my initial rides, are excellent. These beasts have forged bodies with 20 pins on a true flat / thin body. How thin? 12mm to be exact. Not the thinnest, but in practical terms you can’t get much thinner without sacrificing strength.

In a previous post we talked a bit about wheels. Well, Spank has a few wheel sets bound to suit your riding style. The Spike and Spoon wheels look excellent with a bunch of innovative features like the BeadNip profile, the OhhBah inner wall, and zero eyelet construction. Again, Gavin explained why they decided to go without eyelets. They thought, “Why drill an extra large hole and add an eyelet, when precision drilling the holes with the correct angle will make a better interface and stronger wheel?”

Kore

Kore had a bunch of glossy parts out on display as well as a neat prototype of a new 35mm-diameter bar. They aren’t trying to set another standard just for the heck of it, but they reason that with bigger hit bikes, there is a real need for stronger gear that is more resistant to fatigue.

SRAM

One of my last Interbike stops was with SRAM. I talked with Tyler Morland for a while, and he showed off all the goodies to me. SRAM knows how to deliver! For one thing they had celebrities there with their bikes. Can you name the rider pictured below?

You know you done good when you have a tire named after you, like Danny Hart. Danny was around with his Giant showing off all the SRAM gear.

SRAM had all their components on display with new colors like the XO Silver, and there were other new additions to the line up like the XO DH chainring and bashguard.

Jeff and I both agree that the new X5 Group could be a game-changer next year. It looks like X9 but at a much lower price point. Tyler pointed out that essentially these two groups are the same and that the reduced pricing is a result of changes in materials. You will probably start seeing these on bikes in the $800 range – nice gear at a cheaper price point.

Shifting looks very X9ish as well.

The biggest story with SRAM is that you will have two more choices on gear for a total of 4 gear ranges for the chainrings: the original 42-28, 39-26, and now a lower 38-24 and an even lower 36-22. Another important set of products that SRAM will be releasing are easy-to-get repair kits for all your forks, shocks, and other gear.

Santa Cruz

The final stop that I had to make was Santa Cruz bikes. Like SRAM, you couldn’t miss this gorgeous booth with wall-to-wall wood and bike porn. Not to mention that Greg Minnar, Steve Peat, and Josh Bryceland were on hand as well.

Below are three of my favorite Santa Cruz bikes from the show:

The new carbon Nomad. This bike already was made even stronger than the aluminum version of the V10.

The new Carbon V10.

I got all goose-bumpy when I saw this rig! And to think that you can literally jump an entire highway with this bike and it’s still lighter than some XC bikes. What a testament to the strength found in newer carbon structures.

Santa Cruz Tallboy.

I have a lot of respect for this bike; the Tallboy is the bike that really turned me onto 29ers. A few people I know have this bike and they work magic on it–it climbs like a billy goat!

Well folks stay tuned for more – I hope to get a few more Interbike pics posted of even more sweet mountain bikes!

At Interbike this year we saw a number of mountain bike brake refinements along with a few interesting new developments from companies like Avid and Formula. Here’s what we found.

SRAM / Avid

One of the biggest deals at the show was Avid. The company is revamping their rotors this year and changing them to even sizes in line with the industry which is a big step for them. The new rotors are the HS1 (all stainless) and the higher-end HSX (two piece with aluminum center) in 140, 160, 180, and 200mm sizes. The new hexagonal-shaped rotor has been cross-drilled instead of having the rotor milled out. The smaller, more numerous holes will run smoother with less “growl” as the pads do their job bringing your bike to a stop.

The entire line of Avid brakes that feature taper bore (Elixir, XO, and XX) have been tweaked internally with a revised bladder to reduce air permeability. The new design adds an air trap system to prevent air from entering the reservoir and an O-ring just in front of the air trap to further improve the feel of the brake and maintain consistency. The new Elixir 9 also gets an improved contact point adjuster for 2012. Along with that, the World Cup brakes lose the tri-align system in favor of weight savings, bringing them down to 277 grams (weight includes lever, caliper, and 160mm rotor and hardware).

Shimano

Shimano had a see-through XT brake set on display with windows into the caliper and lever assembly (pics below). The complex lever design fits great for one finger operation and the adjustment on the lever works well at setting reach as well. The simple linear piston and return spring with its relatively large volume should perform nicely. However, even in this cutaway you can see how air could be trapped in the piston area of the master cylinder. Just be sure to have the reservoir pointing up and full when bleeding the system out and it shouldn’t be a big deal.

The brake caliper itself looks great with a simple, elegant design that makes it easy to remove top-loaded pads. But having the bleed port below the hose means you are doing a caliper-to-lever bleed only. Not a bad thing but with visuals like this you can get a better idea of what you’re dealing with. Now if only these would work in the real world I would be sold!

Formula

Formula has refined their mountain bike brake line-up as well. The new oval piston DH monster, the Formula RO, has a totally redesigned lever and master cylinder with more volume than the current THE ONE. Along with a redesign, the unit is also more robust. Stroke reach adjustments are built into the lever and the RO can also be had with optional FCS (contact point adjustment).

The top-load design makes for easy removal and servicing of the pads and pistons. The calipers on the RO are forged one-piece designs to keep weight to a minimum. The bleed port is located in the middle of the caliper making it easy to flip flop the calipers if you decide to run “Moto” style.

At about 361 grams per wheel, these are heavier than THE ONE brakes but heavier duty as well (not that there was anything wrong with THE ONE). The robust design as shown above and the redesigned levers scream DH.

THE ONE with reach adjust on the lever.

And when I saw the latest idea from Formula I was screaming like a little girl at a Justin Bieber concert. Formula is working on a new hydraulic brake hose quick release fitting. Coming from a race background and using zero loss quick releases before I was super stoked! Talk about making some jobs easy. The best part of the quick release is that the hose end is just slightly larger than the hose itself, opening up a bunch of possibilities for routing.

Ashima

Ashima Brakes has been coming up with inventive ways of making brake rotors run cooler and lighter. Wayne Moore let me in on some ideas that have been floating around, some of them a bit crazier than others but you never know.

The photo above shows a test concept that uses a simple fan that would pump air through the rotor to cool things off a bit. Simple, somewhat effective, and lightweight. Usually nothing gets in that space anyhow. Another idea Ashima is working on is a three spoke aluminum rotor core with carbon reinforcement (for added stiffness) and steel braking surfaces for compatibility. Of course this is still under development but it should make for a lightweight rotor.

Due to time constraints we didn’t get a chance to hit everyone else but believe me, Hope, Magura, Funn and others were also showing off their goods as well.

More to come…

Hi folks – in this article I am going to tell you how to install, set up, and adjust both 3×10 and 2×10 front derailleurs (though most of this will work for 9spd drivetrains as well). I will also cover the different types of front derailleurs including top clamp, bottom clamp, high direct mount, low direct mount and E-type.

The first step is to identify what type of front derailleur you have. You’re going to have to look at how the cable pulls, size the clamp diameter (or ID the type of direct mount), determine the cage length (short or long), and of course count the number of shifts (2 or 3). The photos below show the different types of front derailleurs.

Top clamp (left) & bottom clamp (right)

High direct mount (left) & low direct mount (right)

E-type

Establish the right front derailleur you need, make sure you have the correct fitting (is it E,E2,S1,S3), and if you’re upgrading to 3×10 or 2×10, make sure you have compatible gear (crank, front shifter).

The next step is to gather all the tools necessary along with the instructions from your manufacturer.

4mm, 5mm, 6mm Hex Keys
8mm, 10mm Hex Keys
Friction grease
Side cutter
Pliers
Cable housing cutter
Ruler / Vernier caliper
Bottom bracket tools (GXP, Octa link, 14mm,15mm extractors)
Torque wrench

Now it’s time to install the front derailleur. With a low direct mount model you’ll need to remove the crank to access the mounting points. E-type front derailleurs require you to remove the drive side crank bearing and replace one of the spacers with the mount plate. Bolt the E-type derailleur down with the single alignment bolt first, then torque the bearing cup back in place.

In setting the derailleur you have to keep three things in mind:

1. The spacing between the top of the large chain ring teeth and the lower edge of the derailleur cage should be 1-3mm (regardless of design).
2. Use friction grease to reduce the necessary torque on the clamp.
3. Tighten the clamp and make sure the cage is parallel with the chain ring.

Setting the gap with a 2×10 derailleur is pretty easy. Just align the set height and torque, keeping in mind that everything should stay parallel. The 3×10 set ups require you to either use a “pro alignment block” that comes with new Shimano front derailleurs or you can carefully move the cage to the middle ring position and check the gap, adjusting up or down as necessary. Torque the clamp down based on your manufacturer’s recommendation (usually 5 – 7Nm).

Now you can set the low (L) and high (H) settings. With the chain already installed you want to have a 0.5mm gap between the inner chain guide plate and the chain. If you don’t have a chain on, from the side of the small chainring to the inner chain guide plate you want a gap of 1.5mm (I usually prefer to do this with the chain installed). Turning the (L) screw counter-clockwise increases the gap while turning the screw clockwise decreases the gap. With the high gear we want the same spacing of 0.5mm between the chain and the inside of the outer plate. Use the (H) screw this time – a clockwise turn will decrease the gap.

With the derailleur physically set up, now you can continue with the rest of the installation.

Starting from the top, make sure the shifter is placed into low gear. For SRAM models, open up your shifter pod by loosening the single screw on the pod. For Shimano shifters there is a plastic cover which you remove (near the thumb shifter). In either case, simply install a new cable and give it a slight tug to make sure it is snug (saves time when tuning).

Above is a typical Shimano shifter. Below is the new X9 / X7.

Below is the XO with its cover removed. As you can see it’s pretty simple. One cover bolt.

Check out your cable housings and remove the housing caps to get a better look. If the ends look frayed it may be time to replace the cable housing as well. If you do decide to change the housing, use the existing pieces to match the lengths. Cutting shifter cable housing requires a proper cutter (not a side cutter as it squishes the housing and increases drag on the cable); try the Park CN-10 cutter. Using a proper cutter also ensures a nice clean, straight cut essential for proper shifting. Once the housing is all cut and installed with cable ends, feed the shifting cable through and down to your derailleur. Do not attach the cable at this point.

Once all the cables are routed and cable ends are on and double-checked for snugness, feed the cable to the front derailleur. Before attaching the cable to the derailleur, turn the cable tension adjuster all the way in (clockwise) and back it out 2 full turns (this is a perfect starting point). It is important to follow the routing correctly. If you purchased the derailleur new your instruction sheets should have clear diagrams showing the correct route. It is very, very, very important to get this right – I’ve seen too many installations where someone got the cable installed incorrectly and the index shifting just doesn’t work. What happens is that the incorrect amount of cable will be pulled. Below is an example of correct installations (Courtesy of SRAM):

Once you’ve figured out the correct route, tighten the cable with the pinch bolt. About 5-7Nm should ensure the cable doesn’t slip. The trick here is that there should be some slack in the cable.

Finally you’re ready to check out shifting performance. With 2X10 it is pretty easy to set up. If you have a stand to allow you to turn the cranks that’s great; if not, find a friend willing to hold the bike up for you for a few minutes. Crank the bike and shift up to the big ring. The shift should bring the chain up to the large ring almost instantly without grinding on the way up. If it takes too many crank strokes or just skips then you have to turn the adjuster knob on the shifter out (counter-clockwise) half a turn at a time until it shifts. Once it shifts up nicely, just make sure that when you’re in the smallest gears on the cassette the chain doesn’t rub on the inside of the outer cage.

With a 3×10 system we only care about centering the middle ring. The first and third rings are taken care of with the stops on the derailleur but the middle ring is aligned with cable tension and the index in the shifter. Again, shift from the small ring to the middle ring and see how it shifts – did it get to the middle ring in about one crank turn or did it skip? If it skipped and didn’t shift, add a bit more tension half a turn at a time (counter-clockwise). Now if it shifts too much, back it off a quarter turn (turn clockwise). You’re trying to get the cage positioned so that the middle gears shift perfectly without rubbing on the cage. On all bikes there will be a bit of rub on the extreme ends of your gear range. Below is a chart borrowed from Shimano that works great as a diagnostic chart.

After about a week or two of riding, especially with new cables, go back and recheck the spacing and torque on all the bolts. I hope this helps and if you have any questions, feel free to post a comment or a thread in our forums. Cheers folks!

image courtesy SRAM.com

SRAM is preparing to go public which means individual investors may soon have the chance to own shares in the bike component maker. Recent documents filed with the SEC reveal some interesting facts about the world’s #2 bike component maker:

• From 2006 to 2010, SRAM grew revenues about 17% per year to more than half a billion dollars in 2010.
• The company improved operating margins from 8% to 19% which points to increasing profit margins.
• Net earnings (profit) in 2010 were $50 million.
• OEM sales (i.e. sales of components to bike manufacturers) are roughly 67%. The other third of sales are aftermarket sales (upgrades).
• Aftermarket sales are increasing and the company credits improved marketing.

Beyond the big picture numbers, the company points out that 50% of 2010 sales came from products less than 3 years old.  SRAM has nearly 300 employees dedicated to product development alone which drives innovation in the product line. Along those lines, the company holds 550 patents – pretty impressive for a company that deals primarily in bikes which have been around for centuries.

The company estimates it has about 15% of the global bike component market, second only to Shimano. Still, it’s a big pie – $3.5 billion in bicycle component sales last year.

As an armchair investor I’d be tempted to give this one several months on the market before considering buying shares. US bike companies that have gone public in the past have typically disappointed but who knows, maybe SRAM will be different. At least if you own a few shares you won’t feel so bad when you drop a couple Gs on a new groupo for your mountain bike – some of that money might come right back to you.

SRAM has been busy over the last year or two integrating and simplifying product lines across their brands (SRAM, Avid, RockShox and TruVativ) to offer true component group selections for mountain bikes. SRAM helped me set my bike up with the X0 component group this past fall which includes the freshly-designated XO hydraulic disc brakes.

Tech and materials

For those who are familiar with the Avid brake line, the XO brakes essentially take up where the Elixir CR brakes leave off (though the Elixir CRs are still considered the X9 brakeset). Based on the specs available online there isn’t much difference between the X0 brakes and Elixir CRs – except for the fact that the X0s weigh 40 grams less! The X0 brakes come equipped with slightly different brake pads (organic vs. sintered) and a more streamlined master cylinder.

The Avid X0 brakes tip-toe onto the scale at 333 grams which is lighter than most hydraulic disc brakes out there (though somehow the XX version is nearly 50 grams lighter than that!). SRAM was able to get the weight down thanks to carbon levers and a sleek in-line master cylinder and reservoir design that’s not only lightweight, it also takes up very little space on your bars. The lever body and caliper feature durable aluminum bodies.

Installing the X0 brakes is a cinch and aligning the caliper and rotor is literally a two step affair: 1. squeeze the brake lever and 2. tighten the bolts. That’s it. I’m not mechanically inclined myself but I installed these brakes in about 30 minutes and had them spinning rub-free on the first attempt. I found the standard hose length to be more than adequate; in fact, even on my large 29er I ended up with a bit too much hose up front (I haven’t found the time to trim the hoses to length yet).

The brake pads on the X0 brakes are top-loading which means you don’t have to remove the wheel to replace the pads. This might seem like a minor detail but it could come in handy during a race like last year’s Fools Gold 100 where competitors burned through multiple sets of brake pads due to gritty and wet conditions. And finding replacement pads at your local bike shop shouldn’t be an issue since the pads are fairly standardized across the SRAM/Avid line (unlike other brakes we’ve used).

On the trail

Let me start this by saying: these are the best hydraulic disc brakes I’ve tested. The first time I used the X0 brakes on the trail it was like a revelation – this is how mountain bike brakes should work. The levers feel completely comfortable and natural and easily lend themselves to single finger pulls (something I’m finally getting used to). It turns out SRAM has put a lot of thought into the placement of the lever pivot (closer to the bar) to align more closely with the arc your finger makes as you pull the lever in.

I also really like the positive clicking sound and feel whenever I release the lever. I’m not sure if there’s a real performance reason for this (like letting you know the brake is fully disengaged) but it feels solid and satisfying on the trail. Contact point adjustment is built into the master cylinder with barrel-adjuster type controls which helps tailor the lever feel and performance to each individual (and helps compensate for pad wear over time).

From day one my X0 brakes have been whisper quiet on the trails and I rarely experience that spaceship warbling sound I notice when others grab the chicken switches. The included rotors are mated perfectly to the pads and after 6+ months of riding in all kinds of conditions (wet, gritty, hot, snowy) I still have some wear left on the first set of pads.

One of the key performance metrics for any mountain bike brake set is modulation and in my experience the X0s offer smooth, regulated stopping power that’s easy to throttle from a little to a lot while screaming down the trail. SRAM talks about something they call “Deep Stroke Modulation” which is heavy on marketing-speak and light on actual technical details but honestly I don’t care – the ability to control braking power on the X0 brakes is both intuitive and consistent. As far as I can tell it’s just magic.

In keeping with the idea of providing a true mountain bike component group, SRAM offers the X0 brakes in multiple color ways (red, blue, gold, and black). The shiny black finish, which SRAM calls “Black Onyx,” looks hot but it’s also great at shedding mud and cleaning up after a dirty ride. No need to spray these parts with Pam – they’re already slickity slick.

Overall

If you haven’t guessed by now, I love the Avid X0 brakes and would recommend them to anyone building up or upgrading an XC/AM bike. To me, the best bike parts are easy to install (check), low maintenance (check), and don’t get in the way on the trail (check) – along those dimensions Avid’s X0 brakes are 3 for 3. Go ahead and give the X0 brakes a shot – what’s stopping you?

Last month I posted Part I of my review of the new SRAM X0 2×10 mountain bike drivetrain and this week I’m ready to talk about my experience with the X0 derailleurs and shifters. In my opinion this is where good drivetrains are separated from great ones – where each click of the thumb either inspires confidence or is followed by a wince and a curse.

X0 Rear Derailleur (10-speed)

Since 10-speed systems have tighter tolerances than standard 8- and 9-speed drivetrain components, I decided to have my local shop hook up both front and rear derailleurs and laced each with Gore Ride-On cables instead of the included SRAM cables and housing (which are high quality, no doubt – just not quite as robust and friction-free as the Gore cables).

The X0 rear derailleur shaves about 12 grams off the weight of the X9 and features a carbon fiber composite outer cage that I’ve found to be tough as nails. The X0 also features low maintenance sealed bearings (unlike the bushings found in the X9) which should last for a very long time. The result: smooth, consistent shifting even under load.

Prior to upgrading to the 2×10 X0, I was running a short cage X9 rear derailleur and after just a few months I had downshifting issues (up-shifts worked great but the derailleur wouldn’t return on release of the cable tension). After several visits to the shop the best explanation seemed to be that the spring was faulty which meant I needed a new $90 derailleur. Based on this experience, while testing the X0 I paid close attention to down-shifting performance and found the spring action to be both powerful and reliable, even after hundreds of miles in the saddle.

Mud didn’t seem to affect the performance of the X0 rear derailleur and thanks to the simple design, cleaning was a cinch after particularly nasty rides. In icy conditions, however, the derailleur tended to freeze in place, effectively limiting my gear choices to just 2-3 cogs. In each case, a layer of ice encased the entire unit; once melted, the derailleur was back to normal.

SRAM is known for the 1 to 1 actuation ratio in their derailleurs and shifters and for those who aren’t familiar, the idea is that the amount of cable movement equals the amount of movement at the derailleur itself. The upside is the derailleur is easier to install and configure plus it’s less likely to need adjustment down the line. I’m sold on that last part by itself – I hate fiddling and worrying about derailleur adjustments. Since installing the X0 on my bike I haven’t made a single adjustment.

X0 Front Derailleur

My 29er mountain bike didn’t originally ship with a front derailleur so I was a little concerned the X0 wouldn’t work well with my frame set-up. Fortunately SRAM has almost every conceivable configuration covered – from high to low clamp, low to high direct mount, and even 3 different down tube diameter clamps. On my bike the derailleur cable routing comes dangerously close to the rear wheel (around half an inch with 2.2 tires) but even after muddy slogs I haven’t had any issues with cable snags or dings.

The front derailleur responds quickly to both up and down shifts with a decisive clunk. Thanks to the X-Glide ramps on the X0 crank there’s virtually zero shifting delay for fast, smooth transitions between high and low gears (and vice versa).

On a few rare occasions I did manage to drop the chain off the outside of the crank and during the final muddy Snake Creek Time Trial I experienced the dreaded “chain suck” heading into two of the climbs. Of course the front derailleur can’t be faulted for chain suck – more than likely the mud, combined with wear on the crank teeth is to blame. Fortunately I was able to catch the issue in time before damaging the derailleur or chain.

X0 Shifters

The X0 trigger shifters are compact and lightweight (232 grams) with a great, responsive feel to them. The shifters are even adjustable for a custom fit which means no more uncomfortable reaching for those with small digits. My set of shifters is 2×10 specific meaning the left shifter only has 2 index positions so it’s not compatible with 3x systems. Some may be disappointed to know SRAM isn’t currently offering a 2×10 grip shift option (or “twist shift” as they’re called now).

Mounting the X0 shifters was a cinch and I really like how little space they take up on the bar. Of course the shifters tuck in nicely with matching X0 brake levers and they’re also MatchMaker X compatible for those who have bought into the whole system approach.

Throughout my testing over the last 6 months+ I haven’t had to adjust a single setting on my shifters. In fact, I really haven’t given them much thought because they’re so dependable with a natural feel. All bike components should aspire to this level of performance and fit!

X0 Drivetrain: Overall Impressions

SRAM has put together an impressive set of technology and manufacturing precision to produce the X0 components and it shows. And while the 2×10 paradigm may not be for everyone, I’m confident that most riders will find the system meets their gearing needs while simplifying the entire experience – from maintenance to performance on the trail. After all, wouldn’t you rather spend more time just riding than working on your bike or trying to find the right gear combination during the ride?

Compared to the other SRAM component groups, the X0 is really meant for the competitive rider who is looking to save weight by making use of the latest materials and designs. And while I’m no competitive rider myself, I really appreciate the weight savings on those long days in the saddle and pretty much every time I lift my 29er onto the top of my car. The X0 blends those weight savings with reliable, durable performance, making it well suited for training as well as racing.

Get the X0 2×10 drivetrain and you’ll being sending XOXO to your bike too.

Thanks to the folks at SRAM for providing the X0 drivetrain for review.

This is pretty much it. My little red rocket. The Dream Machine. The Monster. Here is the Banshee Legend II that I finally have all built up and ready to rip. It took me a while to get it (nearly) complete – I’m actually still waiting on two items that should be arriving shortly. But other than that, it’s done. I can’t wait until the slopes open for the season.

I first managed to get the bike together and out on the trail late in the season last year where I tested out some great products from Rockshox, Avid, and SRAM. Since then I added the final touches of bling from Loaded as well as Deemax Ultimate wheels from Mavic. Those early test rides on the Easton wheelset and Answer products really whetted my appetite for the main course.

The frame is a Banshee Legend II in medium:

Head angle: (63.8°) Seat angle: (70.5°)
Wheelbase: 1171mm / 46.1″
Bottom bracket height: 348mm /13.7″

If you don’t understand those angles and measurements, let me break it down for you: this frame is a purpose-built DH racer, designed for speed and fast cornering. The ultra-low BB keeps the center of gravity down low while the long wheelbase is great for stability.

The suspension arrangement is what Banshee calls their VF4B (Virtual Floating Four Bar) suspension. Now you might say it looks like someone else’s design but let’s face it: unless you have a single pivot, multi-link, suspension configs almost all look alike. However, there are actually small differences in pivot placement that make a big difference in performance. The virtual center region where the Legend II pivots is also different from other bikes. The short lower link, positioning of the links, and lengths of the links make for an ideal axle path. This path starts arcing up and to the rear (perfect for absorbing square edged bumps) in the first bit of travel; from the middle to the end of its path, the axle goes up and forward (reduces chain growth and pedal feedback).

Up front I’m running the Manitou Dorado Pro. I did have the BoXXer WC on there, but for now I’m running the Dorado Pro. I just received the Loaded AmX Rizer bar, a beast of a bar at 31″ wide and 328 grams. The AmX Rizer features 8° back sweep and 4° up sweep which is just right for me. Connecting the bar to the Dorado I have the Loaded AmX direct mount stem set at 45mm length (adjustable to 50mm as well).

Completing the controls, I’m rocking Formula’s ONE brakes (I also run the 2011 Avid Codes) and I love the levers because they take up virtually zero room on my bars and have a great feel (never mind the power and excellent modulation). The shifter is  a SRAM 10spd X0 (presently my favorite) with 1×10 gearing.

Now let’s talk about the high performance drivetrain. The Descendant cranks are from Truvativ and I’ve added the e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention device to keep the SRAM PC 1091 chain in line. For now the pedals are Xpedo XMX12ACs which have a great feel and provide a wide foot plate. I’m also looking forward to trying Spank’s new Spike pedals soon. Although I don’t plan on doing much sitting on this bike, the saddle is a WTB Valcon mounted on a Loaded X-Lite seatpost.

On the back I have the SRAM X0 short cage 10spd derailleur on an OG1090 11-25 rear cassette. Talk about great shifting. Despite the fact that the rear cassette is the road version, it works great with the X0 rear derailleur. Wheels are the iconic Mavic Deemax Ultimates (12x150mm rear) which are super light for DH (under 2,000 grams) and oh so smooth.

Now all this is tied together by two other important things: the rear shock and tires. I’m running the Rockshox Vivid Air which provides an excellent feel while controlling the wheel nicely. For tires I went with the ITS Invader 2.5″. At about 1100 grams each, they offer a decent mix between weight and durability. The Invader is also what is considered an all conditions tire, perfect for the Ontario landscape where I do most my riding. Lately I’ve noticed North Shore type features popping up around here so I’m excited to see how these tires perform in a variety of conditions.

In its current state the bike weighs in under 40lbs. – 37 lbs. to be exact – and it’s still bulletproof. Weight savings come from several areas, starting with the innovative Interspoke milling on the Mavic rims. Banshee carefully selects tubing thicknesses and machined shapes while including titanium pivot hardware. The Vivid Air and the Sram OG-1090 rear cassette shed massive amounts of weight over competing products, accounting for a whole pound of savings together. The final little bits of weight fell off by replacing stock hardware bolts with titanium and alloy parts.

In case you’re interested here are the build details:

Frame: Banshee Legend II
Fork: Manitou Dorado Pro  / Rockshox BoXXer WC
Rear shock: Rockshox Vivid Air (240mm x 76mm) (9.5″x3.0″)
Seatpost: Loaded X-Lite
Saddle: WTB Valcon (Silverado Syndicate on order)
Cane Creek XX II headset
Stem: Loaded AmX direct mount / Answer -ONE (not shown at this time)
Bar: Loaded AmX riser bar (790mm / 31″) / Answer ProTAPER 780 DH
Bar Grips: ODI Ruffian
Brakes: Formula ONE 208mm rotors F/R / Avid Code (not shown)
Shifters: SRAM XO 1×10
Wheels: Mavic Deemax Ultimate
Tires: ITS 26 x 2.5″ Invader tires
Cranks: Truvativ Descendant / GXP BB 83mm 165mm lengths
Cassette: SRAM OG 1090
Chain: SRAM PC1091
Pedals: Xpedo XMX12AC
Extras: Alloy rotor bolts from Ashima, Titanium hardware for brakes, Titanium hardware for rear shock.

Based on a few early test rides I’ve found this bike loves all the lightweight components; in particular the lighter Deemax wheels actually showed increased precision and tracking. I love pitching the bike in corners and the feeling of control I get with the bike in the air. In the hands of a pro rider I can imagine some spectacular whips coming outta this bike!

One interesting thing I noticed so far is that for my body type (5’9″, 190lbs with 31″ inseam and regular arm length), a 50mm or 45mm stem works well with a riser bar; otherwise, running a 55mm stem with a flatter bar works equally well. A 30-31 inch bar seems to offer a good mix between control while limiting over-steering.

Speaking of control, I found with a properly tuned suspension I didn’t get a lot of the diving I normally expect from a long-legged trail machine. Keeping my weight centered or further back and nailing the brakes coming into sharp corners, the bike remains civil without that pitch feeling I’ve had on other machines. The front and rear suspension work well together to keep this ride stable (time spent setting up the shocks is key!). And when things do get rough, I absolutely understand why so much time was involved in the development of this bike. The Legend II feels pretty forgiving – hitting rocks didn’t seem to be much of an issue. The bike tracked nicely over that kind of stuff.

Once I get more seat time in and experiment a little with settings and parts, I’ll post further updates. Stayed tuned for more!

Almost every brand new mountain bike drivetrain I’ve ridden has been great: quiet operation, smooth shifting, and shiny parts – heck, even the lube on a new drivetrain smells great. But over time things usually start to go south – derailleurs wilt, cassettes choke on grime, and bottom brackets start to creak; cranks lose their teeth and chains start to kink. Regular maintenance can certainly delay the decay but the real key is to start with high performance design and quality parts that are built to last and can stand up to trail abuse. The SRAM X0 series takes this idea and rides with it to a whole new level.

I’ve been testing the new SRAM X0 2×10 drivetrain on my 29er over the last 6 months, quickly taking things from “factory fresh” to “well worn” and I’ve learned a lot about X0 and 2×10 along the way. Just this month I finished riding 29 trails in 29 days in some of the worst mountain bike conditions imaginable – snow, mud, ice, and rain – which was great for testing (though not always great for riding). Here’s what I found.

SRAM XX Cassette

Yes, this is a review of the SRAM X0 drivetrain but at the time I received my parts the X0 cassette (XG 1080) was still in production so I got hooked up with the XG 1099 (score!). I know it’s been said before but the SRAM XX cassette is truly a work of art. According to SRAM, it takes 9 hours to cut the cassette out of a solid hunk of steel using fancy CNC machinery. The result is a one-piece design that’s been digitally optimized for maximum mud shedding, light weight, precision, and strength.

I opted for the 11-36 cassette (there’s also a more aggressive 11-32 version) which weighs 31 grams less than the already supermodel-thin X0 cassette. The final 11T ring is separate from the main cassette body as is the aluminum lock ring. Just like the X7, X9, and X0 cassettes, the XG 1099 features SRAM’s X-Glide technology which provides consistent shifting performance under a variety of conditions.

Installing and uninstalling the XX cassette has been a breeze. At this point I’ve used the cassette with 3 different wheel sets and I’ve cleaned/degreased it just as many times. It’s always a smooth fit and after a recent cleaning it still looked as good as new (the pic directly above is an “after” shot taken a few days ago; the pic at the top of the article was taken “before”).

It’s tough to talk about the performance of a single component in a mountain bike drivetrain, especially the cassette where the rear derailleur mostly runs the show. I can say my chain never slipped (not surprising) and that mud shedding is certainly above average. Leaves and various bits of crud did manage to find their way into the cassette voids over time but were easy enough to remove with running water and a toothpick.

GXP Team Bottom Bracket

The bottom bracket is sorta the unsung hero of any drivetrain but the GXP Team Bottom Bracket is hard to ignore. With sealed steel bearings and a tungsten finish, the GXP Bottom Bracket is built to keep water and crud out while maintaining a velvety smooth spin. Mine installed easily and I haven’t had to touch it since. Over the past six months I’ve been cranking the pedals pretty hard and the BB continues to whirl like new.

SRAM X0 Crankset

The X0 crankset is perhaps my favorite part of the whole drivetrain setup. With carbon crank arms and the simplicity of just two rings up front, the X0 really shines. I went with the 26-39 configuration but SRAM also offers a racy 28-42 2×10 option as well as a 3-ring 22-33-44 version (these options are also available in the X7 and X9 lines). Like the cassette, the crank rings are CNC-machined for sharp precision and a sexy look and feel.

Some riders may be wondering about the differences between X0 and X9 parts and the answer really depends on which component you’re talking about. The X0 crankset, for example, weighs in at 788 grams compared to the (aluminum) X9 at 881 grams (that’s almost 100 grams lighter for the math-challenged). It’s a pretty significant difference and in my opinion, worth the additional investment. If you do have to skimp somewhere, consider another area like the chain.

The biggest question most mountain bikers have about going 2×10 is whether they’ll miss the third chain ring. I personally love the simplicity of a 2-ring set-up and while some of the most extreme “granny gears” are missing, I found that I was quickly able to adapt. On the high end I only miss the additional gears when I’m riding flat stuff like fireroads or pavement (and I try to limit that as much as I can anyway!). A 2×10 drivetrain doesn’t quite offer the same range of gearing as a standard 3x system – but it gets close enough for any rider who appreciates things like simplicity and weight savings.

As with any long term relationship, mountain bikers tend to hurt the ones they love the most and unfortunately the X0 crankset has born the brunt of my trail abuse. During a nighttime time trial in Augusta one of my pedals worked itself loose and when I stepped on it coming out of a turn I stripped the last 2-3 pedal threads on the crank. The loose pedal had nothing to do with the crank itself – the pedal either wasn’t tightened properly or it seized in the cold temps – which made the damage all the more frustrating. Fortunately I was able to have the threads re-tapped and after a month of riding and hundreds of miles, everything is holding up well.

Coming off a 1×9 drivetrain, I also haven’t done a good job protecting my big ring from log hits. During a recent inspection I found one big ring tooth that was nearly completely gone and a few others that had been noticeably dulled. To be honest I haven’t noticed any performance issues associated with the loss but I’ll certainly be more careful and will do a better job removing grit from my chain after muddy rides to avoid further wear on the precision metal teeth.

SRAM PowerChain 1071

Some may be surprised to learn that standard 9spd chains won’t work well with a 2×10 drivetrain and it’s because the spacing on a 10spd cassette is slightly narrower. The PowerChain 1071 is actually part of the X7 group and the only difference between the 1071 and 1091R (the X0/XX chain) seems to be the “Lighting Holes” the 1091R features on outer links for additional weight savings. How much weight do the holes save? According to SRAM, about 2 grams (less than 1% of the total).

SRAM’s 10spd chains also feature the PowerLock connecting link that’s a little different from the PowerLink connection you’ll find on SRAM 9spd chains. PowerLock links can be installed without using a tool but unlike PowerLinks, they are not re-usable (the pins pop off when you use a standard chain removal tool). I haven’t had any issues with my chain over the past 500+ miles but I always carry a couple spare PowerLocks in my hydration pack just in case.

Despite the narrower chain gauge I haven’t noticed any unusual side-to-side flex during shifting nor have I experienced any sort of “chain stretch.” Keeping the chain clean and properly lubed seems to make all the difference in terms of quiet performance. The only thing I’ve noticed is that my rag catches slightly on the PowerLock link when I wipe off excess lube.

So that’s a lot to take in and I haven’t even talked about the shifters or derailleurs (coming up next). Look for part II of my review plus a review of SRAM’s sexy X0 hydraulic disc brakes.

Thanks to the folks at SRAM for providing these parts for testing and review.

For 2011, SRAM is offering 10spd drivetrains throughout the line but that doesn’t mean they’ve dropped the 9spd option and for good reason – the nine speed drivetrains still work great. Choosing the best option is really about what you want to get out of your bike.

Usually whenever people talk about drivetrains they’re talking about both front and rear systems (2×10, 3×9, etc.). But what about drivetrains for slopestyle bikes? You know, those over-sized freeride and downhill mountain bikes that mostly just go down the hill.

For those who aren’t familiar, the term freeride means to make it down a hill on a bike with no rules and no set course using the most creative lines possible. Today’s freeride bikes are pure art with about 7 inches of travel yet they’re still capable of responding to tight and twisting turns. Because freeride bikes mostly ride downhill they typically don’t need a front derailleur and feature a beefed up chain retention system around the crank. So the driveline is usually a 1×9 set up – but what about 1×10?

Well to explore the differences, I installed the 2011 9spd X0 and the 2011 10spd X0 on my Opus Nelson and Banshee Legend II. No front derailleurs allowed – just a set of proper retention devices up front to protect the chains, rings and cranks (I really like the e*thirteen retention devices since they’re both lightweight and tough as nails).

Since both bikes are mainly used for riding down hill, I set up each using a tight DH-oriented cassette. For the 9spd drivetrain I used SRAM’s PG 970 (11-23) cassette and for the 10spd I used the SRAM OG-1090 (11-25) cassette (yup, that’s from the top tier Red group). The Red group cassette was pretty damn expensive (about $250) so you may want to consider that when choosing a 10spd cassette. The OG-1090 comes in at 160g compared to the less expensive but heavier, 225g 10spd PG-1070.

I also wanted to get maximum clearance from rocks and branches so I configured both drivetrains with  short cage derailleurs which are recommended for FR/DH applications (plus I get even more weight savings). Now both the 9spd and 10spd X0 systems share technologies and some material choices. Adjustments are identical between the two but that’s about where it ends.

The new 10spd X0 rear derailleur is very different from the 9spd version. The new forged link design and maximized knuckles offer an improvement over previous designs and the new pulley cage is pretty bling too. Just like the 9spd derailleur, the 10spd features a carbon outer cage, just without the flashy carbon weave as a finish layer.

Setting up both systems is pretty much the same – cable routing, housing lengths, and limit screw settings are critical for optimal performance. With everything on a DH bike vibrating to hell and back, taking your time here is a good thing. I did find the 10spd set-up took a few minutes longer than the 9spd which might sound surprising at first. But think about it: You want to control 10 gears in the same space where there were 9 gears before and something has to improve for this to work. That something is precision. Cable tension here is paramount – a small amount of tension one way or the other could toss everything off. I also found the spacing between the cassette and derailleur pulley to be critical which can add to the set-up time.

Once the derailleurs have been set and the limit screws all taken care of, installing the chains took just a few minutes. The 10spd chains use what is called the “Powerlock” link instead of the “Powerlink” used with 9spds chains. Once you get your chain to the right length, the Powerlock link locks the chain together (a one time shot, unlike the Powerlink which can be reset). Try to get the chain length right the first time before locking it in place or else have a few Powerlocks handy.

At the shifter end, things look very similar. Both shifters have the same feel to them and feature an adjustable shift lever. Installing the cable in each is simple and straightforward – just remove the “impulse” cover screw and thread the cable.

The anodized Redwin finish on the 9spd X0 is flawless as is the jet black and red finish on the 10spd. The little extra bits of titanium and stainless steel hardware from SRAM also complement the look.

Now, the real question is: how did they perform? Well in a few words – great, fantastic, awesome. Truly, both systems worked well. They shifted quickly and efficiently once they were configured correctly. I noticed the 10spd up-shifted a bit faster (mostly due to the tighter spacing) and both systems worked equally as well under power and didn’t complain when the slopes got rough. The spring tension on both derailleurs worked well at keeping chains on cassettes.

I didn’t get a chance to test the drivetrains in muddy conditions this time (I’ve already broken both my clavicles and I’m really not in the mood to do that again) so I can’t really comment on mud shedding. I can tell you the larger ratio cassettes all have spider supports with plenty of space to clear out mud and debris while the tighter cassettes do not. The OG-1090 is made from a solid forged form of heat-treated chromoly that has been machined rather than drilled with mud-clearing relief holes. If you live in an area where it’s mostly dry this doesn’t matter much to you and for me, I try to stay off the slopes when it’s raining (too many slick rocks).

As far as durability is concerned, so far so good. I haven’t tanked it bad enough on the drive side of either bike to see anything snap off or even come up with scratch. The short cage derailleurs do a nice job tucking the drive train in and keeping it safe and improving clearances through rock gardens. I’m a little curious about what might happen to the carbon plate in the event of a crash so I’ll keep you posted if I unwittingly go into test mode.

Maybe in the near future when the 10spd becomes a standard on DH bikes, the good folks at SRAM will consider producing a version specifically for DH riders. Today the Santa Cruz Syndicate Steve Peat Replica bike is one of the few 10spd DH bikes on the market and it features a road cassette! (the PG-1070)

Thanks to SRAM for sending down the XO for testing. Check out SRAM.com for more details on the XO as well as other great products for 2011.

Hi folks, I hope you enjoyed the Holiday Season. I also hope Santa was good to you as well. So… what did you do over the break? Anything interesting show up under the tree for ya? I ended spending some time over the break at Joyride 150, an indoor bike park up in Toronto, Canada much like the two Ray’s down in the States. I gotta say, indoor bike parks are a good idea for the whole family because there’s something for everyone.

I ended up riding indoors 4 times in 2 weeks, taking my XC, trail and DJ bikes out for spins. I rode just about everything they had to offer from the two pump tracks on my DJ bike to the challenging skinnies on my trail bike to the XC track with my XC bike. Joyride also has progressive jumps and a vert park for those who dare to enjoy air. Believe it or not, indoor riding is a great way to stay in shape and sharpen up your riding skills during the “off season.” I spent a ton of time learning a sweet new tail whip move on the progressive jumps, something I always wanted to do on the slopes but was a bit too shy to try. The idea of sucking dirt and rocks just doesn’t appeal to me so a controlled environment like the one at Joyride (high skill, low consequence) is perfect for building skills.

During some of my visits to Joyride 150 there up to 280 riders, not to mention families hanging around and watching everything from a few folks honing their trials skills to others nailing 360-degree backflips and tail whips into the foam pit. The great thing about many indoor parks is that they’re usually close enough to a hotel and other attractions that can add to the experience of your mini vacation if you have to travel. Fortunately I live very close by so I get to ride pretty much whenever I like!

Mark Summers, one of the owners at Joyride 150, explained how he got the idea to open the place after taking his own mini vacation a few years back with his family. He said he loved the idea so much they had to do it here (Toronto) and it was just a matter of finding a location big enough to do it (Joyride is 80,000 sq ft). These days Joyride is well established and has partnered with local hotels for deals and family packages. This, in turn, has lured more and more out of state visitors.

Well needless to say I continue to have a great time at Joyride and find that I use the facilities often when testing new products as well. I can always count on some of the key features to be there so I can evaluate products without second guessing if it’s the product or the terrain that is making a difference.

New MTB Gear

The photos below show a sneak peak of some hotly anticipated skid lids I just received. The new T2 from THE is for the gravity park folks and the new XAR is for all of you who want a lightweight XC / AM lid with superior protection and fit.

Speaking of products and parts and stuff – Santa (and his manufacturing reps) recently sent out some of the new 2011 items for product review. Look for product tests from Giro, POC, THE, Mavic, Fox and more to help you gear up for the upcoming riding season!

Looking further into 2011, we also have more cool contests on tap as well. Thanks to your word of mouth, singletracks has been growing and with growth comes notoriety (which helps us get great prizes for giveaways). Just above is my Opus Nelson FR bike which this year is sporting the all new Fox 36 Talas 180 FIT RC2 and a SRAM XO 9spd drivetrain in red.

My DH project bike, the Banshee Legend II, has been coming along nicely as well. Here is a glory shot of the bike just waiting to hit the slopes! The build now comes in at just a hair over 36lbs. with dual ply rubbers from ITS. The new Mavic Deemax Ultimate wheels, in case you’re wondering, are under 2,000 grams (1,965).

We’re stoked for mountain biking in 2011 and hope you are too! Stay tuned and stay well everyone.

Happy New Year.

Today I have something from Truvativ that has just been “declassified” from the company’s Blackbox technology group. The Descendant crank has actually been around since 2009 and was initially tested by Peaty himself. And unlike some cranks out there that are all about the bling, the Descendant crank is all about the business of performing on the slopes.

The Descendant crank arms are made from forged AL-7050-TV, the same material that’s regularly used in aerospace landing gear and bulkhead construction. The cranks share the same forging technology and design techniques as the Holzfeller but that’s basically where the similarities end. Truvativ managed to get the Descendant’s weight down to 822 grams which is especially impressive considering that the SRAM X9 crankset that I reviewed just a little while back comes in heavier at 845 grams. Sure the X9 has two chain rings but remember, the Descendant is made for the gravity crowd where parts have to be beefier, stiffer, and stronger. Just think about it – that’s about 240 grams lighter than the Holzfeller, 150 grams lighter than Saint, and 100 grams lighter than RaceFace Atlas FR!

Of course weight savings are great but they don’t mean squat if a crank can’t endure the abuse of DH and FR mountain biking. On any bike the crankset is the most important link between man and machine and it’s really a spot where you don’t want unnecessary flexing. Fortunately the Descendant over-delivers on the promise of high strength and stiffness (more on that later).

Another great thing about the new Descendant crank is the options that are offered. With three crank arm lengths (165, 170, 175mm) and two chain ring options (36 or 38) along with 73mm or 83mm bottom bracket options you’re pretty much covered. Now speaking of the bottom bracket (a sore spot for many cranks), the new Team GXP bottom bracket comes with Gutter seal technology and a new forged cup design. The gutter seal basically keeps junk out and reduces seal drag which means more power goes toward turning the crank instead of overcoming drag.

Unlike multi-ring cranks, the chain ring on the Descendant doesn’t feature shift ramps. Instead, the rings are machined from AL-7075 T and cut to a 4mm thickness so they’re still compatible with the present 8, 9, or 10spd systems. The chain ring is held in place with steel bolts and I opted to run an e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention system rather than risk bashing off the frame’s ISCG tabs. Although it might look better to show off the crank and ring, I decided to work with the strength of the crank’s spindle and bolted up the bash guard there instead. Besides, it’s cheaper to replace a bash guard than to replace a frame if the tabs get bent.

Installing the cranks was a piece of cake using a standard 16-notch external BB tool. Follow the easy to understand, full color instructions for proper spacer installation. Also remember to use a high quality grease to lube the cups before installation and add a touch of lube to the spindle before installing the non-drive side of the crank. As always, torque everything down precisely using a digital torque wrench like the D-Torq DX from Topeak. Remember, when it comes to torque, too much of a good thing is no good at all.

Hitting the Trail

I was really impressed with the solid feel of the Descendant crank on my Banshee Legend II. While hitting step-downs and decent-sized jumps I immediately noticed the stiffness of the cranks upon landing. I had no worries about things bending because I really didn’t felt much flex at all. Even when pedaling hard on the flats the crank felt rock solid with zero visible wobble. Even after casing it a more than a few times and bashing the cranks on rock gardens, the cranks stayed straight with just a few scratches on the ends of the crank arms.

Let’s face it, if the Descendant crankset is good enough to carry pro mountain bikers like Peaty to 17 podium finishes, 7 world cup wins, and the top three places the 2009 World Championships, it’s good enough for you and me. At just $185 MSRP you’re getting a lot of crank for your money.

Thanks to the folks at Truvativ for sending up the Descendant crank for review.

Pssst – hey you on that DH bike – wanna drop some weight and increase performance on your rig? I though so. At 5.98lbs, the BoXXer WC is probably the lightest 200mm DH fork on the market today – the next closest contender I know of is the 6.4lb Manitou Dorado MRD – so you’re looking at a good half pound off that front end of yours. The weight savings alone are huge but there are many more refinements to be had with the Rock Shox World Cup BoXXer.

Let’s start with the outside of the fork and work our way in. The BoXXer is available in 4 colors this year: red, white, and black plus the new super cool Keronite finish. Keronite is basically a very hard ceramic finish that can be applied to aluminum, magnesium, and titanium. The process is similar to that of a plasma coating except it’s far more advanced and precise. The process actually works at a molecular level, changing the base material to a ceramic surface, resulting in a super hard surface with enhanced base material properties. Having had a few of my projects treated with Keronite, I can say it is simply amazing.

Other external changes include re-tooled knobs to save weight and new graphics with the World Cup championship colors. The familiar etched graphics on the stanchions and pressure chart on the fork leg are nice touches and help with sag set up on the go. The BoXXer features post mounts to increases the stiffness of the brake assembly over older IS standards; many of the newer brakes being produced are post mount compatible.

Internally the BoXXer has a host of new features over last year’s 2010 model. For one thing, RockShox put the fork under a microscope to reduce friction (something of a bother from last year’s model). The engineers looked at everything from seals to bushings and re-designed the damper cartridge and the Solo air spring assembly to eliminate friction points. RockShox kept the 35mm 7000 series aluminum stanchions, which are hard anodized for long life and lower friction (stiction), the lower magnesium legs with the power bulge, and of course the high performance Maxle Lite DH 20mm axle.

The re-worked Dual Flow adjustment (high – low speed rebound) and the tuned Mission Control DH valving (high-low speed compression) really perk up this fork for 2011. Although it takes a bit of time to set everything just right, the effort really pays off in the end. The re-worked valving truly changes how the fork behaves over fast, rough terrain and absorbs the larger features that you’ll find anywhere. The internals sport a totally upgraded Solo unit (which can be retro-fitted into the 2010 model, though not the Race version), but unfortunately the new damper won’t fit – sorry. I checked simply because I have a few friends who own the 2010 WC and they were interested in upgrading after riding my 2011 version.

Installing the BoXXer WC (1-1/8″ aluminum steering tube) was pretty easy – it’s just a matter of measuring twice and cutting once. As always, read the manual and torque the bolts in place with a quality torque wrench. Remember spacing between crowns must be 156mm ±2mm. The minimum the stanchion length is exposed on the top crown is 2mm so before cutting the steering tube (if you’re going with a direct mount stem) it must extend 2mm from the top of the upper crown. Other than that business, all is good.

Dialing it in

Setting up the BoXXer WC took a good solid day of riding plus a break-in period. I found the fork needed a little time to get everything seated and felling creamy smooth. With the BoXXer it’s important to follow the RockShox tuning recommendations to get the fork set up right – that is, unless you have your own world-cup tech on speed dial. Get the air spring pressure set first (sag) by jouncing the fork a few times to equalize the pressures in the positive and negative chambers. I found the BoXXer-specific pump to be great – the large air volume this pump delivers is helpful – otherwise you might be there all day with a standard shock pump.

Once the sag is set it’s time to configure the beginning stroke rebound dampening (first 25% of travel). This really should be done on the trail and not on the streets. Find a familiar section of trail and session it. Add one or two clicks at a time to the small knob on the bottom (hold the larger knob to keep it from turning). You want the fork to return fast, but not so fast that it stings the hands or feels like it’s going to toss you off the bike. Next, set the end stroke rebound (for coming off bigger hits) where the travel range goes from 25% to 100%. Again, you’re looking to avoid getting bucked off the bike. Too much of either the high or low speed rebound and you get what’s called packing down – basically losing more and more travel with every hit.

Now, set up the low and high speed compression. Low speed compression allows you to to balance trail sensitivity and fork dive – basically changing how the fork feels. Too much compression and the fork tends to skip over some of the bumps and feels very harsh; too little and the fork dives when hitting the brakes and cornering. Once you get the low speed set, dial in the high speed setting for big drops, rock gardens at speed, etc. The goal here is to get maximum control over the wheel. You don’t want the fork to blow though the travel on the big hits so add more compression until you get a controlled compression. Too much snaps the wrists back and stings; too little and it feels like the bike bogs down and gets wallowy.

The final setting is the end stroke adjuster which changes the volume of the air chamber during the fork’s last 20% of travel. Reducing the volume will ramp up the spring rate, yielding a more progressive feel. This is one of those settings that is totally subjective, depending on the rider. If I was going from a drop to flat I would add more end stroke (for my 200lb. weight I’d add about 4 turns).

Ok, even though some of this might sound more complicated than a NASA checklist, don’t worry. The tuning guide that RockShox includes is easy to follow and understand and Rockshox encourages you to play with the settings. I ended up downloading the guide and printing out a few of the “My Favorite Setting” charts to remember what I liked best during testing. All the controls were easy to use except the bottom out dial – I recommend having a 2.5mm allen key handy and being prepared to remove the air from the air spring to adjust it. I did take the knob off and added a tiny touch of synthetic lube to the seal before replacing it to see if that would help. This gave me marginal improvement and was really the only small issue I found with this fork.

Hitting the Trail

I installed the BoXXer WC on my Banshee Legend II and it definitely stepped up the Legend’s game. Once the fork was broken in I spent a bit of time re-setting the dials and had a really good time. The lightness of the fork really made it easy to control the bike and on low speed, technical rock gardens and general gnar I felt consistent control over my front wheel.

Taping the powerful 2011 Code brakes would cause almost any bike to dive like a submarine but I found with the compression set midway at 6 clicks and the low speed at 4 clicks, the fork struck a good balance between traction and control. Even on taxing rock gardens where the suspension travel got a real workout I still maintained perfect control over the bike without having it pack down underneath me. On rock gardens there’s always the chance of a glance causing the bike to slip sideways; some forks will twist in this situation. On the BoXXer I didn’t notice any flex – the bike always tracked where I wanted it to go.

Big hits with the BoXXer were just too fun. The lighter weight allowed me to move the bike a bit more without a lot of extra body effort. The lighter weight also seemed to increase performance of the bike as well. A lighter fork reduces sprung mass to a degree, particularly if the reduction in mass is on the fork lowers.

Overall the BoXXer WC works very well and any racer should be happy with this unit with little worry about maintenance. So my last two cents? Try 0ne out for yourself,  I’m sure you will be impressed. If you have a 2010 model and don’t want to fork out the cash for a new one, get yourself the air cartridge (fits WC and Team models only) for a nice performance boost.

Ok, so how much does this wonder of modern mountain bike technology cost? Well as far as world class forks are concerned, I can say the BoXXer is right in line at $1,700 MSRP. Now if that is a bit more than you can afford, test out the Team or Race versions. These forks are a bit heavier and feature a coil spring which can be more difficult to tune but are definitely worth a look.

A big thanks to Tyler Morland from RockShox for setting sending up the BoXXer WC for a review. Another thanks to my good friend Michael Chan for taking those snowy shots. Stay tuned for a write up on a few other exciting products from Rockshox as well as SRAM. Next up: the Rockshox Vivid Air.