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Shutdown or not, there always be idiots who leave trash behind, cut down trees etc. Seems like author slightly against mountain bikers in general but couldn’t agree more with this quote from that article
“Sometimes you just want to follow your wanderlust. Do that during the shutdown in a manner respectful of the ecosystem and a park’s regulations and nobody will really care.”
On a rare occasion when I want to ride gravel, I use my hardtail with 29×2.1 Kenda Small Block 8. Since it’s a XC racing bike it has high enough gears for me and feels good on 50+ miles ride. I ride mostly Singletrack but if it was a dedicated gravel bike I would put bar ends or drop bar for more hand positions.
A few comes to mind right away. The steepest I rode was on Slickrock in Moab. Hike a bike was Deer Canyon near Denver (2000 feet in 4 miles) and climb to the top of Ten Mile range on Colorado Trail. Both seemed to me endless at that time and was hard not to turn around and take paved detour
Shin guards or clipless. Better go with shin guards, cause if she won’t unclip in time, injury could be a lot more serious then scar on shins
Test ride it first. If it’s in good condition, it fits you well then buy it. It’s a good deal to save that much. Usually test bikes has less then 100 miles on it whike still covered by warranty. Unlike brand new bike, this one will be already broken in and tuned up, so no stretched cables after first ride.
I saved myself on demo bike once. It looked like new but with good discount it was hard to resist.
It’s just my opinion but I think such ratio doesn’t work. Ten people of the same height and weight will give ten different performance numbers.
Definitely ditch battery grip, one battery is enough to shoot all day long unless you use it for video. Consider smaller lighter lens, 35 or 50mm depends on where you ride. And just use a regular backpack as others mentioned.
Or, if you don’t need highest quality, consider compact cameras like Sony rx 100, Lumix lx-series etc. these producing high enough quality pics, fit in your pocket and provide all manual controls you get in dslr. By no means such cameras can compete with dslr, but it’s so much fun to ride without that extra bulk and weight.
It is correct, tire pressure drops at lower temperatures. What I meant is that no matter what the outside temperature tire pressure should be based on terrain you riding on. For example, if there’s no snow but -20F I would keep my tire pressure the same as if I was riding on summer Singletrack. Thank you for pointing it out.
Air temperature shouldn’t affect your tire pressure. For example, riders at Arrowhead 135 race exposing their bikes (and their bodies) to much colder temperatures. It all depends on surface that you riding on and your weight. If it’s a hard pack then higher pressure is fine (20 psi is too high even for summer riding), on soft snow/sand or mud sometimes even 2 psi will be necessary.
so, as previous post said, it’s all trial and error.
At first I wanted to say “fork”. But after you further explained your trail and riding I’d say dropper post definitely make more sense.
Just keep in mind that different bikes has different seatpost diameters and if in the future you decide to go to different brand your dropper post might not fit your new frame.
I’ll secobd on fat Bike. Preferably one that will allow suspension fork later. These bikes are tanks and you’d have to really rip trails to destroy one.
Hiking trails in PA usually looks no different from world-class downhill trails: rocky, rooty and steep. Since you wanna gear up for bikepacking, fatbikes accepting racks, fenders and you don’t have to worry about suspension failure.
And in your price range there are many quality options in used department
Since prices for decent bikes skyrocketed to 5-6000 it’s not an option I’m considering. $2-3k is what quality full-suspension is worth for me.
Freeze/thaw conditions can keep me away from trails.
I don’t consider it cross training yet I believe that hiking, rock climbing, downhill skiing and mountain biking help each other for me.
I’d say for the cost of durable electrical tape you can buy a dedicated neoprene sleeve for your chainstay. It should cost around $5. Maybe $10 maximum.
In general tape is too thin and will be torn to pieces on the first rough downhill.
Inner tube works better. Still have to be replaced from time to time.
Photochromatic glasses is a way to go. Unless you riding in the desert a lot. I use mine in any conditions day and night.
Sure, glasses do fog up and get dirty. To prevent fogging just slide it down a bit whenever stopped to increase air flow. And put glasses back on after you start riding again.
Didn’t you notice all those “defects” mentioned before swiping your card in the store? If so, you most likely had a remote idea how much would upgrade cost. I’m not defending GT here. Simply saying you’d get the same result with any low-end bike from any manufacturer.
Wow! I’ve heard someone was working on the bikepacking route that include all 14ers in Colorado. This guy definitely went further. Applauding to his effort.
I’m with @mongwolf that every bit of your gear should be used in different applications. There were few occasions when I found difficult to find a spot for my tent and rooftop would’ve been perfect. But in most cases backpacking tent is way better for me. And if properly set, no wind noise/flap issue.
I’d say go for the best bike your money could buy. Also reserve some cash for gear – helmet, pump, patch kit, shorts, gloves etc could cost quite a sum alone.
Used market is filled with great bikes too since many going for trendy plus tires and selling their “regular” bikes .
