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The biggest thing I’ve learned over years of interviews and reporting is that every design choice has its pros and cons, and there’s no such thing as a perfect product or perfect solution.
I just bought a Canyon Neuron trail bike and decided to go with the aluminum version. Honestly the biggest factor was the cost, and while there are weight and ride quality differences between carbon and aluminum, the advantages of carbon weren’t enough for me to outweigh the cost, at least in this particular decision.
Start by cleaning everything using car wash soap (I like the pink stuff) or dish soap if you don’t have car wash soap. You might need to use degreaser on the chain, cassette, and crank if the soap doesn’t cut it.
Sandblasting the frame is a big job. You need to remove EVERYTHING, pedals, gears, bottom bracket, head set, etc. It’s rarely worth it.
Check if the suspension is at least holding air by topping it off with a shock pump and checking it after a ride or two. Wipe down the stanchions.
That should get you started!
Sweet, you can do it!
Try to refresh the trail page if you’re logged in, but still see “Log in” at the top right. If you visited the page previously while not logged in, it can get cached in your browser.
Strange! We’ll keep looking into this to see what could be causing the problem.
Thanks for the tip, it looks like there is a way to deactivate parking assist on my vehicle. I’ll have to try that!
OK, sounds like the solution is to always pull thru and avoid backing up if possible haha.
Apologies for the late response!
It could that the page is being cached. That is, if you visit a page and are not logged in, then log in and return to it, you’re still seeing the cached version.
Try this and let me know if it works: Log into your account, then visit the page in question. If it looks like you’re not logged into that page, hit the refresh button in your browser. That should call a fresh version of the page showing the correct status.
We’ll look to see if there’s a better way to manage caching so this doesn’t happen…
I signed up but didn’t purchase the sticker which is required for joining their program. Seems like a good way for them to gather email addresses, credit card numbers, and mailing addresses… At the very least it does seem like they are selling low quality items.
Tyre Wiz is a pressure monitoring device that’s integrated into a valve.
Or maybe you’re thinking of the Muc-Off valve stem Air Tag holder? Not GPS, but it would allow you to track a stolen bike.
Updated link: https://discord.gg/fGbF4mrKuF
These were all 12spd, and likely purchased within the last year or two.
I only know the brand and model of one of them, and the brand starts with S haha. Definitely wondering if there’s a pattern, trying to avoid biasing any responses.
Right, the idea is to focus solely on technical trail features. So just because a trail is long, or climbs a lot, shouldn’t affect the rating. However things like steepness DO factor in since that requires skill in addition to physical fitness.
That’s a pretty standard size wheel so you shouldn’t have any problems finding a replacement.
What you need is a 29″ diameter wheel, with a 30mm internal rim width. One thing to sort out is which drivetrain he has, specifically the cassette standard: SRAM, or Shimano. It seems likely it’s a Shimano Microspline based on the 2021 builds that were sold.
This Nukeproof set should work: https://tidd.ly/3OEGB51
If the play is in the stem you should be able to tighten the stem bolts at the bars and steerer tube to eliminate it. However, it’s more likely your steerer has play within the head tube which can be a little trickier to fix.
Start by loosening the stem cap and the stem bolts at the steerer tube end. Then, roll the front wheel back and forth before grabbing the front brake to nudge the fork/steerer into place. Tighten the stem bolts, then the stem cap. Don’t overtighten as this can affect the steering.
I’ve found it takes a bit of trial and error to get everything seated properly without tightening things too much, so maybe others can weigh in with better tips/instructions.
Hard to know exactly but one thing to consider is the reach and front center are a good bit longer on the new bike. You can try a set of handlebars with more sweep to bring the grips closer to the saddle and see if that makes a difference.
Another thing to consider is the bar height. You might be able to flip the stem upside down to drop the bars closer to what you’re used to with your Specialized.
So I ended up getting this one for about $20. Hopefully it lasts!
I’m a little worried about the black rubber bumper getting lost, though fortunately they include four of them (!) in the box. A silicon band connects to the red plastic cover/body so it should be a pretty solid connection to the bike. It’s USB rechargeable and it seems bright. Now to see how long the battery lasts…
That looks fairly normal. At least, it doesn’t look too far beyond cosmetic damage. Can you tell if it’s just the frame finish that’s been damaged, or are there deep gouges in the chainstay tubing?
Can definitely recommend adding a chainstay protector and a clutch derailleur.
Yeah, some lights have seemingly better/tighter clips but ultimately I’ve lost every single one I’ve tried, whether attached to a pack or the bike.
Anyone have good luck mounting a blinkie to their helmet?
Nice. The caribiner mount seems like it would be pretty secure. Where do you attach it so it doesn’t bounce around – on a pack, or on your bike?
