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They aren’t a match to your existing setup. The 10 speed chain rings are spaced more tightly than the 9 speed set up you currently have so you’d need a new 10 speed front shifter and front derailleur, at the least, to keep shifting working somewhat properly. 10 speed systems and 9 speed systems use slightly different sized chains as well to make things shift smoothly but you could probably get away with using a 10 speed chain on a 9 speed cassette and rear derailleur without having ridiculous results. It still wouldn’t be as smooth as a proper, full 10 speed drivetrain.
Once you got a new front shifter and front derailleur, you’d also need to install BB30 sized external bottom bracket cups (~$30) into your frame to allow you to use the new crankset. This wouldn’t be hard though. Just pull your old crankset off and dump the existing octalink BB. Install the new BB30 cups and put the new crankset on. (Shwim, your setup is probably the same.)
IMO, it’s not worth it to buy the 10 speed crankset unless you really want to change the whole thing over to 10. If you just want to change the crankset that bad, find a 9 speed version. You’d still need to install BB30 cups but would not have to deal with changing out all the other equipment. 9 speed stuff can be found pretty cheap since the onslaught of 10 and now 11 speed systems.
As long as the base map sticks around I’m game for the new changes with recommended routes. They sound like they could be helpful, especially when unfamiliar with a trail. Sounds to me like a point value just above a normal review would be fair: 2 or 3. There needs be some incentive for spending the time to upload GPS data but not a lot if it’s data that should already be downloadable from the base map. To me, individual point totals are really only used as a tiebreaker for contests (and the occassional E-Peen) so I wouldn’t care too much if things got readjusted under the new system. Ultimately, everyone who has ever submitted GPS files would have their point totals affected so the impact would be somewhat muted and uniform.
Question 1:
For places with a large unofficial networks of individually recognized trails how would a route work? I’m thinking about the Pisgah trails in the back of my mind right now. That place has 200+ miles of trails that have their own name but few of them are ever ridden by themselves. (It seems like it’s always been a problem child as far as mapping out the area under the current system.) Do you envision users uploading the route to each trail that was touched in the complete route or mostly just upload the ride to one specific trail page? Or would there need to be further reorganization of these individual trails into some sort of unofficial network page listing each as a sub trail in the greater network?Question 2:
Are there any plans for future base maps from NeoTreks to be downloadable for use on GPS units in some fashion? I’m thinking something along the lines of the network option for trails in Topofusion?BTW, if these questions will be covered in the upcoming blog I definitely can wait for an answer so you don’t have to rewrite stuff (or just blow the surprise).
Holy crap that’s a lot of people!!! I stopped counting at 50. Looks like great weather and I’m sure it was a fun time on those trails. Whoever was manning the grill after that ride needs to open his own catering business if he/she was able to pull that off!
Personally, I think finding out about a new trail and seeing that initial GPS is far more useful to users than having 10 different maps of how to ride that trail. That new addition to the database should be worth the most points. Without knowing [i:l6l3kcc5]where [/i:l6l3kcc5]to ride, no one [i:l6l3kcc5]will [/i:l6l3kcc5]ride.
After knowing where to ride, it helps A LOT to know what’s there that you actually [i:l6l3kcc5]can [/i:l6l3kcc5]ride. A complete and accurate map lets riders get a feel for the place and also helps them find a way out if they get lost. Updates of this sort should be worth a middle amount of points.
Lastly, it’s nice to know which sections have a better flow or are just more fun in a certain direction. This is where the recommended routes come into play. The recommended routes would be a cool touch as an addition to existing data but places like Bull Mt or Pisgah have a good chance of get overwhelming with the sheer number of possibilities for ride routes. Depending on the rider, his style, and his physical fitness, you might get 20-30 different routes out of network style trail systems. It’s really more opinion based than fact based so I’d give it a lot less points.
How about this pro tip…use sealant and none of this matters.
Every time I hear someone say "it’s easier to find your valve stem" I have to laugh.
If you can’t find the valve stem on your wheel in less than 3 seconds (regardless of where your logo is), you probably weren’t going to be changing the tire quickly anyways. I’m pretty sure most people could find the valve stem in 3 seconds or less even with their eyes closed.
The only REAL reason to line up your logos with your stem is because it looks like what the pros do and makes things look a little cleaner aesthetically.
When I go ride a new trail in an area I’m not totally familiar with, the first thing I check is the rainfall and weather conditions in that area over the last 24-48 hours. I’m not lazy, but it sure would be cool to have that info right on the trail homepage to make an educated decision on whether or not I can get a ride in on a reasonably dry trail.
Bikepedia has it listed as a 27.2mm
All I can say is it’s about F’ing time.
What size DH jersey do you wear Jeff? How about Syd or Greg if you guys have one? Trying to figure out what I should go with. The sizing chart is confusing since the measurements are nothing like normal shirts. I normally wear a Large T shirt so I’m leaning in that direction.
If you have your stem at the very top of your steering tube, you are supposed to have a bit of a gap (~3-6mm) where the stem is actually higher up than the end of the steering tube. When you tighten the top cap of your stem into the star nut installed in the steering tube, it pushes the entire stem down the tube, through the spacers, and into the headset. Without any gap there, the top cap can’t put that needed pressure on the headset and your steering will feel loose and wonky.
In this case, I’d assume he had a larger gap than the 6mm cutoff and the stem that he had wasn’t able to get enough clamping force to hold onto the steering tube correctly even after he had correctly tightened the top cap. I’d have to assume that the top stem clamp bolt on the steering tube side of the stem just didn’t have enough tube to grab onto and hold itself in place.
Sounds like an honest mistake to me.
The Pinhoti’s never close no matter the weather. That doens’t mean that they will be in fantastic riding shape but they do drain well for the most part. Tons of gravel/fire roads in that area as a fall back as well if you get on the trails and have a bout with your conscious because they are too wet.
How did that break?? Those Nixons are pretty strong and thats a reinforced part. Unless it was a manufacturing defect, it would take one heck of a hit to break that arch; probably the type of hit that would also damage the internals of the fork as well. I’d contact Manitou before I rode that fork again.
You sort of touched on this one but I think it needs to be specifically pointed out that the vast majority of trips should not actually qualify as "epic" without full on suffering.
I don’t mean that "oh wow, my heart rate just got into the 98% of max range" suffering either. That’s simply pushing yourself.
I mean the type that approaches death or dismemberment. Stuff involving tourniquets, splints, neck braces, heart disrhythmias and mandatory IV fluids. That’s epic sh_t right there. You don’t necessarily have to have an injury needing those kinds of interventions but you better at least be able to confidently state that those types injuries [i:3jqncmj4]could [/i:3jqncmj4]have or [i:3jqncmj4]previously [/i:3jqncmj4]have been involved.
If you don’t question yourself somewhere during the ride by thinking, "why the hell am I doing this?", then you aren’t on an epic ride.
Dustin, have you had any experience building wheels with the Alpha 340 road rims Stans has out now? I’m thinking about taking apart a set of Easton EA50’s from my road bike and relacing the hubs to the Stans Alphas. If I can find some decent tires I’d even go tubeless on that setup. Know anyone who has gone this route and had an opinion one way or the other?
I heard about this a couple days ago and have been stoked ever since.
Road trip, anyone?
"lovemountainbiking12" wrote[quote="dgaddis":19shmpi8]Which spokes are breaking, exactly? Which wheel, which side of the whee
I’m 6’2” 240 pounds its happening to the rear wheel on the cassette side[/quote:19shmpi8]
$50 bucks says you’ve dropped your chain off the inside of the cassette at some point and gouged the spokes. The location of the broken spokes is a dead giveaway. They are weakened when this happens and will eventually break unless replaced.
Take it back to the shop and ask for someone who builds wheels. If they don’t have someone who builds wheels, you may want to try elsewhere. Its not a prerequisite to have a person who builds wheels to fix your exisiting wheel. Wheel builders just do a better job because they understand all the forces at play to make a good, reliable wheel.
Get them to remove the gouged spokes and replace them with spokes of the exact same length and retension the entire rear wheel appropriately. Like I said before, plucking spokes on the same side of the wheel should result in almost the same tone out of each spoke. Higher tones mean that spoke is tighter than the rest and lower tones mean that spoke is looser. If ALL the spokes on a given side of a wheel are not evenly tensioned, the wheel will fail early and go out of true easily no matter how straight and true it currently looks.
Broken spokes are usually a result of damage or just a poorly made wheel in the first place. The pinch flats are probably more an issue of poor technique; try going tubeless.
Spoke damage can often come from dropping your chain off the back of the cassette. It will slightly gouge the spokes and weaken them causing them to break early. Sticks and rocks can also cause damage.
If the tensions were not brought up evenly and properly when the wheel was originally built, there is going to be a lot of extra stress on certain spokes causing breakage down the road. Until the spoke tensions are evened out correctly, you’ll never keep the wheel trued and you’ll probably eventually end up breaking more spokes. Pluck the spokes one by one like a guitar string and listen to the tones. Spokes on the same side of the wheel should sound pretty close in tone.
A freshly lubed freehub is usually a bit quieter so if you did relube it you should be OK. If you let the freehub dry before applying lube it should be fine.
Here’s what I’m a little worried about…
If you didn’t have the right sized allen wrench to get the freehub tightened, how did you ever get it off the hub body? Was it THAT loose?
Strava filed a countersuit against the family.
Strava has now responded formally with a countersuit, saying that Flint "electronically signed and agreed to Strava’s Terms and Conditions," thereby agreeing to "indemnify and hold Strava… harmless from any claim or demand."In the countersuit filed with the San Francisco Superior Court of California, Strava asks the court for reimbursement for its defense fees, such as attorneys’ fees, as well as the finding that Strava was not liable for Flint’s death.
The only people who actually win in these types of cases are the lawyers.
