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Currently running a 3×9 stock drivetrain looking to upgrade to 1×11 SRAM GX wanting to know advantages of going with the 1x and disadvantages and also if anybody currently runs or has run the SRAM GX
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Main advantages would be less parts = more simplicity and less weight. Primary disadvantage would be losing slowest and fastest gearing. You can modify your ring to lose less at either end, but you won’t be able to match either.
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Is it worth going with a 1x drivetrain
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Only you can answer that question. If you really enjoy/need either your very lowest(granny) or highest gearing, I would stop you right there and say that it’s not for you. If you don’t spend much time in either, lament those extra 300 grams and really hate looking at that left shifter pod, then it might be for you.
In my area and with my level of fitness, I value my granny more than what a 1x can offer me.
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As a intermediate rider and a beginner mechanic is it easy to swap out the chain rings depending on the ride
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No, it would not be something you would do at the trailhead normally simply because the chain would have to be lengthened or shortened to be able to retain the proper amount of slack. Even with a long cage derailleur, the 1x is more susceptible to chain slap/drops with any extra chain due to the amount of slack it needs to take up from a 42 tooth cog to a 10.
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I’ve been running SRAM GX since this spring and I’m a big fan. It works great and is barely heavier (except for the cassette) than their pricier groups.
Something to consider if you make the jump, can you put an XD driver on your current wheelset? If you don’t know, check with your local shop. You may have end up having to buy a new rear wheel, which would add to the cost. One work around to this would be to get Shimano’s new 11-speed XT cassette as that will work on a standard driver. You won’t get that 10T gear on the high end, but that’s not a deal-breaker to me.
I would disagree with what Schwim said about swapping chainrings, at least to a certain extent. If you’re only going up or down a couple of teeth (30T to 32T) you don’t have to worry about the chain length. SRAM cranks use either direct mount or 4-bolt chainrings. Swapping a direct mount chainring is definitely more involved than a 4-bolt, but not that difficult. I prefer the 4-bolt and swap out rings frequently depending on the terrain. If it’s going to be a long day with lots of climbing, I’ll put on a 30T or even a 28T. It literally takes me less than 5 minutes to swap rings.
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YMMV, I guess. When I went from a 32 to a 30 on my Cannondale, I had to remove a link due to excessive chain slap on the exciting parts of the trail, even when shifting to the larger end of the cassette.
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Schwim, what rear derailleur are you using?
I’ve been able to swap between a 28T and 32T without issue. But yes, every bike is gonna be different.
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I love my new 1 x 11 setup… it makes it much simpler when your making big gear changes… such as rolling over the top and starting to build speed quickly… I love not having to switch the front to get the power on. Of course you will sacrafice gear ratios… my front is middle of small / med of typical 3 gear fronts.
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Are you using all or most of the gears now??? I converted to a 1×9 and found it to be fine for me. Maybe you should try that first instead of taking the plunge (expense) for the 1×11. I run a 32 up front and a 12/36 cassette out back and can climb anything here local. I found myself never using anything other than my middle chainring. My drivetrain was shot and needing replaced so I thought I would give the 1x a try since I was needing to swap it out anyway. I am using a short cage derailleur, MRP chain guide and a N/W chainring. You pretty much have to run a chain guide since you can’t buy a 9 speed rear derailleur with a clutch to keep your chain from flying off. I had about the same money tied up in this setup as I would just replacing the 3×9 stuff. I’m happy and would never consider going back.
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My bike is 3×9 and I almost never us high range, but do occasionally need low. So if I do switch I will probably go 2×10.. A good friend has his bike set up 2×10 but removed the front derailleur and switches his front beforehand depending on the trails he is riding that day.. I’m thinking of doing the same.. Also, from what I’ve read, I thought the chain size (width) was slightly different between 9, 10, and 11 speed cassettes?
From a Harris Cyclery “As you go to more sprockets on the cassette, you need a narrower chain. However, using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a “9-speed” chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a “10-speed” chain with a 9-speed system. This is not the ideal approach — shifting may not be quite as smooth — but it’s workable.”</span>
From BikesDirect chain compatibility.
11-Speed Drivetrains
11-speed drivetrains require 11-speed chains. Shimano and SRAM 11-speed chains are not cross-compatible; if you have a Shimano 11-speed drivetrain, you need a Shimano 11-speed chain. We sell the Shimano Ultegra CN-6800 11-Speed Chain and the slightly lighterShimano Dura-Ace CN-9000 11-Speed Chain.
For SRAM 11-speed systems, choose the SRAM Force 22 PC-1170 11-Speed Chain or the SRAM Red 22 Hollow-Pin 11-Speed Chain. For SRAM’s XX1 or X01 1×11 MTB drivetrains, the only compatible chain is the SRAM XX1 11-Speed Chain.
Finally, the Campagnolo Chorus 11 Speed Chain is an excellent choice for Campagnolo 11-speed systems, as is the Campy-specific KMC X11-SL Silver Chain.
10-Speed Drivetrains
Campagnolo 10-speed systems are compatible only with Campagnolo or aftermarket Campy-specific chains. The Campagnolo Record Ultra Narrow 10 Speed Chain and Campagnolo Veloce 10-speed Chain are excellent Campy-made options, but the Wippermann Connex 10S1 SS 10-speed Chain or KMC X10.93 10-Speed Chain will work fine. Those last two chains are also compatible with SRAM and Shimano drivetrains.
Shimano’s Dura-Ace 7900, Ultegra 6700, and 105 5700 groups are a little different. With these 2009/10 groupsets, Shimano introduced an asymmetric chain design (with different links on the inside and outside). According to Shimano, “optimal” performance is only possible with a corresponding asymmetric chain like the Shimano Dura-Ace CN-7901 10-Speed Chain, Shimano Ultegra CN-6701 10-Speed Chain, orShimano 105 CN-5701 10-Speed Chain. In our experience, though, any Shimano- or SRAM-compatible 10-speed chain will work flawlessly with these groups.
Any Shimano- or SRAM-compatible 10-speed chain can be used with any other Shimano 10-speed groupsets, and with any SRAM 10-speed groupset. SRAM says, of course, that their chains will provide optimal performance with their components, though. We carry a wide range of10-speed chains that will work well with Shimano and SRAM drivetrains.
9-Speed Drivetrains
9-speed Campagnolo chains are getting a bit tricky to find, but we do carry the Campagnolo Record C9 Chain. SRAM and Shimano 9-speed systems are easy—Shimano drivetrains can use any Shimano- or SRAM-compatible 9-speed chain, and SRAM 9-speed drivetrains can even use 10-speed chains.
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I agree with Aaron’s comments. Love the SRAM GX set-up and also find I can swap out rings<span style=”font-family: ‘Helvetica Neue’, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 23.040000915527344px; background-color: #fbfbfb;”> without issue…and with the benefit of it being a super simple trailside change. Disclaimer…I’m not doing any major climbing and my original setup before I converted to 1X was 32T middle ring. So swapping out for 30T or 34T is not a big jump.</span>
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