Yup, it feels that way sometimes.

When Jeff sent me the email informing me I was picked to be on the Singletracks blog team, I almost turned him down. At the time I sent in my application I was living in Philadelphia, a 15 minute ride from the sweetest trails imaginable in Fairmount Park and I had a stable of bikes in the garage to suit my mood on any given day. But by the time his email came I had moved to Madison, Wisconsin for a new job without a single bike. I was living in a hotel (still am) and didn’t even know where the trails were. But I’m working on it.

Seeing as it’s winter in Wisconsin at the moment, hitting the trails isn’t in the cards right now so I’ve done the next best thing: I bought a bike that will be my workhorse and jack-of-all-trades: a 2011 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Presidio cyclocross bike. I chose the bike for the sweet steel frame and great 2×10 drivetrain but most of all for the ability to mount fenders. Bad weather and wet roads have never been an excuse to keep me indoors so I wanted the bike to be ready for anything. So on went a pair of fluted Velo Orange aluminum fenders and now me and the bike stay nice and dry (well, drier anyway).

When the snow started coming down I was happy to have a good headlight for visibility and the Bar Mitts to keep my hands cozy.

On my first ride in over a month it felt great to start getting back into shape for when the snow melts. I’ll be using this cyclocross bike as a commuter, a light off-road steed, and an around town bike to tackle the snow covered trails that tie Madison’s neighborhoods together. Today I got in 35 chilly, hilly miles doing a dry run on the route I’ll take when I start commuting to the office. It’s humbling to realize how little time I spent in the big ring, but after a winter lazy spell you’ve got to start somewhere.

Since the cold, snowy weather will be around for a while longer (so I’m told by the locals) I’ll have some non-singletrack posts to fill the time until the thaw. I’m almost through reading the book Bicycle Technology and a review will be up soon. I’ll also be starting an MTB-specific strength training program to get pumped for the season. Hopefully between that and my cyclocross miles I’ll be ready for the dirt in short order.

And the sooner I can ditch this gear, the better.

When the snow is flying and the wind is blowing, the less skin exposed, the better.

With all the responsibilities we have, finding enough time to ride can be difficult. Commuting to work or school by bike can be a great way to spend more time in the saddle, especially considering that part of that time would be spent commuting anyway.

I started bike commuting several years ago after my first trip to Moab where it took me 5 1/2 hours to complete the Slickrock trail. I was seriously out of shape, and the only cure was to ride more. Combine that with $4 a gallon gas at the time and a paved bike path taking me to within several blocks of work, and bike commuting was a no-brainer.

Often the hardest part of bike commuting is getting started. But once you establish a good route and invest in a few items to make the ride go smoothly, you’ll forget about that old gas guzzler and will be amazed at your fitness after just a few short weeks. Here are a few tips to get your wheels rolling.

Route Finding

The way you bike to work may or may not follow the normal car route. Google Maps has a cool ‘bicycling directions’ feature that can give you an overview of your planned route, but don’t trust it implicitly. Once you have a general route, do a weekend test ride. This will help you make any adjustments to your path plus it will give you an idea of how long the ride will take.

Clothing and Equipment

A few people ride in their work clothes but for myself and others, this isn’t the best idea due to sweat issues. I wear the same thing I would wear mountain biking and carry a change of clothes with me. I wear cleated bike shoes that look casual/outdoorsy but you could also leave a pair of street shoes at work. Some folks use a backpack to transport work stuff but depending on how much stuff you have, this can get heavy. If your bike has the tabs for it, consider getting a decent pannier rack or, if you don’t need to carry a laptop, a simple ‘trunk’ type bag should work. If you do carry a laptop, check out something like the Cannondale Cypod.

Safety

Keep your bike well maintained and adjusted and carry tools and spares for basic repairs. Most of us commute in areas with excellent cell coverage so remember to pack your phone in case your bike becomes disabled. As for vehicular traffic, ALWAYS assume that drivers don’t see you and/or don’t understand who has the right of way. Malicious drivers are pretty rare, but I see dumb things on my commute all the time.

Lights

Even if your schedule keeps you well within daylight hours, having lights is still a good idea so that motorists can see you. There are a number of inexpensive headlights and ‘blinky’ taillights on the market designed specifically for commuting. If you already have lights for night mountain biking, you could use those as well (though some may be heavy and/or bulky).

The Bike

At first I used my only bike, a hardtail mountain bike, for both mountain biking and commuting. While any bike will get you there and back, hardtails, ‘cross bikes, and road bikes are definitely better suited to the task. I have since upgraded to a full suspension ride, but I kept my old hardtail and turned it into a fully rigid, dedicated commuter.

Bike commuting isn’t nearly as much fun as hitting the dirt, but as a way to get in those extra miles it’s a great alternative to sitting in traffic. Just look at these two photos and decide for yourself.

photo right: by MSVG.

Bull Mountain photo by K2K.

It’s day seven of my 29 Trails in 29 Days challenge and things aren’t going so well. I’ve only ridden 2 trails so far and while the roads are better here in Atlanta today, the trails are still shellacked with a thick coating of ice on top of snow. The good news is temperatures are up and things are starting to melt so hopefully I can notch trails #3 and 4 before the weekend is over.

During the Snake Creek Gap Time Trial last weekend I witnessed some pretty fancy riding – and not on the infamous rock gardens. Large stream crossings can be particularly daunting, especially in winter when cold feet and socks can be hazardous to your health and comfort; fortunately I came across a few of techniques we can all use to avoid the deep freeze.

#1: Remove your shoes and socks and walk across.

This technique is the most time consuming but it’s also almost guaranteed to keep your feet dry if done correctly. Admittedly I’ve only done this a few times, usually when there’s a deep stream crossing early in a ride and I want to avoid hours of soggy shoe riding. I saw more than one person doing this at the Snake Creek Gap TT, though last weekend I don’t think it was necessary (I managed to keep my feet dry using another method). This is a great technique for exceptionally deep water or wide river crossings where you anticipate needing to put a foot down.

#2: Do the pedal shuffle

The “pedal shuffle” works like this: starting with the pedals in the horizontal position, pedal forward until your lead pedal almost touches the water. Then, backpedal until your rear pedal just touches the water. Repeat until you get to dry land.

I ended up using this method on Saturday after running out of momentum about 2/3 of the way across the stream crossing. This method works only when the water is less than two inches below your bottom bracket. It can be slow and becomes more difficult on rocky/uneven crossings.

#3: Legs up!

For smooth bottom stream crossings, this one works great. Build up plenty of momentum and just as you reach the water, take your feet off the pedals and lift them as high in the air as you can. Done correctly and with perfect form, you can theoretically cross streams at handlebar depth – just make sure you have enough steam to make it all the way across!

At least one of the guys in my group at Snake Creek Gap TT did this flawlessly and looked like a champ doing it. Just don’t hit any bumps – all your weight is on the saddle which can lead to some serious discomfort (not to mention you may have a hard time balancing with feet in the air!).

#4: Gun it across.

I’m a big fan of this method for shallow crossings and even puddles (keeps the mud off your bike). Given the right conditions and enough speed, riding fast will cause the water to spray sideways, leaving you and your bike completely dry. Go too slow, however, and the water will splash upward, leaving your feet and legs drenched.

The big stream crossing on the 34-mile Snake Creek Gap course is a bit too wide for method #4 but that didn’t stop many riders from trying. In fact, just as one rider was attempting technique #1 (walking) another rider came screaming across, spraying rider #1 with a wall of water (though I’m pretty sure both guys got wet). In a thick German accent, rider #2 apologized profusely saying “So sorry. I didn’t mean. I didn’t mean!” Then he rode off on the other side, leaving rider #1 fuming.

As you can see, there are a number of ways to keep your feet dry when crossing streams on your mountain bike depending on the conditions. Of course there are also a few Gore-Tex mountain bike boots out there but for anything deeper than boot height, you’ll need to use one of these techniques to stay dry. Happy trails!

A little while back I did a write up on the CycleOps Powertap SL+ for mountain bikes. At the time I raved about how well it worked and how useful the data was when downloaded to the PC. At the time someone mentioned that the Cervo display unit wasn’t the greatest, especially given the cost of the system and honestly I had to agree. Well guess what? The good folks at CycleOps must have been listening because they gone and improved it. Yup, the Powertap SL+ now comes standard with the Joule 2.0 display head unit. For those who already have a Powertap you can also purchase the Joule 2.0 to work with your existing system.

The Joule 2.0 represents a quantum leap in both performance and user interface improvement. The old two-button Cervo was a bit of a pain to set up. You needed to remember the right sequence of  buttons to press and how many times to press them to access specific data and functions. The new Joule, on the other hand, almost doesn’t need instructions – by playing around with the menu I was able to find almost everything I needed. The Joule 2.0 is also ANT+ compatible meaning you can use it with many heart rate monitors, cadence sensors, power meters, and speedometers from other manufacturers.

The main screen displays six different metrics in real time along with two additional data fields, all of which are user-configurable. Two buttons and a joystick control allow you to get to everything quickly and the intuitive menu is easy to follow and understand. Compared to the Cervo, you also get two new inputs that previously were not included: altitude and temperature. Now that’s what I’m talking about! Obviously the amount of climbing during a training ride is important to know but temperature also has an impact on performance and gives a more complete picture of individual workouts.

The Joule 2.0 isn’t just a fancy display upgrade; the included PowerAgent software takes your training to another level.  Believe it or not, saving and analyzing training data is often the difference between first and the first loser in many races. The more detail you’re able to track and respond to, the more quickly you will improve.

The PowerAgent summary report contains basic info about each ride and is good for a quick comparisons between previous rides. The power detail report looks at your ride intensity, including normalized power, watts per kilogram of body weight (perfect for comparing yourself to other riders), and time spent at zero watts. The work report quantifies work completed, including training peaks and calculates a training stress score (TSS) and intensity factor (IF) for each workout.

PowerAgent also produces a peak power report showing a spectrum of peak power data indicating ride intensity at key physiological markers of current fitness compared to previous performances. In other words, you can track how well your heart, lungs, and legs are working from day to day. Power and heart rate data is slotted into zones and plotted against time to show the type of workout you’re getting each time. Finally, PowerAgent includes a surge and climbing report covering all the altitude gained along with a calculation of vertical ascent and grade. Pretty cool stuff for those who want to know exactly what they are doing and how well they are doing it. There are even extra features within the software that allow you to share your info with trainers and others on Twitter, 2Peak.com, and other training websites.

Using the Joule on both my trail bike and my training bike (essentially my XC bike mounted up on my CycleOps Super Magneto Pro) has been a piece of cake. The mount supplied with the Joule is far more rugged than previous models (I always worried it might break, though it never did) and mounts easy enough to most round-ish stems. Some of the shorter machined stems that are not round may have a small issue and need an adapter to allow better placement for the two tie wraps. I also used a little double sided tape to secure my mount in addition to the tie wraps.

On the trails the screen is easy to read and easy to use even with gloved fingers and the real time metrics seem to update very quickly. The only thing that had me slightly concerned was the mini-USB connector on the back of the Joule head unit. The port isn’t covered which means water could potentially penetrate the unit, though I didn’t have any problems in my tests. If you’re really worried, a small piece of tape just might do the trick on rides with deep stream crossings or in rainy conditions. And remember to look up at the trail from time to time instead of staring at the Joule the whole way – I nearly smacked a tree during one ride! The included heart monitor works well without a lot of fiddling to get the transmission synced up.

So, what do I think of the Joule? Well, if you’re on the fence about purchasing a Powertap, this update to the Powertap SL+ ($1,699 MSRP for the complete MTB power system) should make the decision much easier. Even if you have an existing Powertap SL+, I think the new Joule 2.0 ($449 MSRP) is a valuable for upgrade over the older Cervo head unit. Mountain bike training alone isn’t enough if you aren’t tracking your complete progress; fortunately the Joule 2.0 is just the tool to help you reach your competitive goals for the new year.

I would like to thank the folks at CycleOps for sending down the Joule for a review.

By now you’ve probably seen the ads for FRS Healthy Energy products featuring top riders like Lance Armstrong and Travis Brown but you may be wondering, does this stuff actually work? I wondered the same thing myself so I decided to put FRS to the test. At the age of 40 I have been having a few of those days – both on the trail and at home and work – where I could definitely use a little extra gas in the tank.

Over the years I’ve tried various different products on the market, from your typical energy drinks that promise to make you fly to those small bottles that have hours of energy but I found mixed results. Yes, most of them work but how good are they for you? Reading the ingredients makes you wonder a bit: caffeine, taurine, glucuronolactone, ginseng… you get the point.

FRS is made with quercetin, a powerful natural antioxidant that’s also know to work as an antihistamine and an anti-inflammatory. Most FRS products also include vitamins (C, E, B6, and B12) which help the body absorb quercetin while adding other health benefits. Some studies show antioxidants reduce the risk of cancer which sweetens the deal even more. Also, unlike most energy products we’re familiar with, FRS needs to be taken regularly for the user to see results. In that way it’s more like a supplement than a true quick-energy product.

The Folks down at FRS sent me both the powder and chews for testing. FRS can also be purchased as a ready to drink can or as a concentrate that’s mixed with water. I opted to stick to the powder and chews since for me it’s the lightest, most convenient way to transport and consume. The small packets are about the same size as a crystal light packet and weigh nothing. Toss a couple of those in your hydration pack for when you want something other than water on the trail plus a few chews in a pocket sleeve and you’re good to go for mountain biking!

I tested out the low cal wild berry and the low cal orange powders. With the powders I found that they needed to be shaken pretty vigorously to totally mix in my bottles and hydration bladder. In my opinion the flavor was just okay. Neither was too sweet medicine-like and the orange flavor tasted very much like Tang.

In terms of performance I never got a burst in energy like I’ve experienced with Red Bull or 5 Hour Energy products. Instead, after using FRS for a few weeks I felt more measured effects that seemed to take the edge off when I was feeling tired. Riding on my CycleOps bike trainer I can’t say that I was able to pedal at a higher cadence but I didn’t feel any negative effects either.  I did notice that after the workout I didn’t feel as tired or drained as usual.

FRS claims their studies show cycling fatigue reductions on the order of 13% along with 3% VO2 Max improvements (taking the product twice a day for 7 days) but let’s just I didn’t personally experience that sort of lift, even after a few weeks. I did feel a little less tired overall but didn’t see any clearly measurable results.

I also tried the FRS Healthy Energy chews – pineapple mango, orange, and wild berry. Here again I have to say the orange wins in flavor with pineapple mango coming in a close second. One thing that does come to mind however when tasting these chews is that unlike some other brands like Clif shots or the like, these tend to feel a bit chalky in the mouth. One serving is two chews and as advertised you don’t need to take water with them (though I needed a bit of water though to rinse my mouth out while riding).

Since energy and nutrition products work differently for everyone, give FRS a try for yourself to see if it works for you. You can buy FRS Healthy Energy products online or at GNC stores.

I would like to thank FRS Healthy Energy for sending up the products for review.

Here’s a quick item for those of you who like your nutrition in gel form: Clif Shots just got a new formula for 2011. Previously, Clif Shots used organic brown rice syrup for the base which some noted was a little thicker than other brands. The new product builds off an organic maltodextrin base and is offered in a new chocolate cherry (or cherry chocolate?) flavor in addition to espresso and plain chocolate. Clif claims the energy gels are 85% to 90% organic which definitely important to some folks.

In addition to the new base, Clif has amped up the caffeine in the espresso gels to 100 mg. The company claims this is more than any other gel on the market so perhaps we’ll start skipping the morning coffee for a Clif Shot.

Finally, the new Clif Shot formula comes in a redesigned package that’s perfect for cyclists. Pouch edges have been rounded to eliminate poking when carried in jersey pockets plus the mouth has been narrowed about 20% to improve mouth comfort (though we have to wonder what this has done to flow speeds). The new package also includes the familiar “Litter Leash” to reduce the chance of ripped tabs “accidentally” ending up on the trail (though element22 ripped right through a litter leash without even trying).

Everyone has their individual on-trail nutrition preferences so for those who are into gels, check out the new Clif Shots and let us know what you think!

Sixteen years ago I took a mountain biking class at Boy Scout camp and I still remember almost every detail. We learned about full attack position, how to climb, and how to perform minor bike maintenance – all on a (then new) fleet of fully rigid Trek Antelope mountain bikes. After that summer, though, I became the MTB equivalent of an elementary school dropout with zero formal bike education outside of “online classes” and “real world experience.” Then this summer, feeling the twinge of both guilt and regret, I swallowed my pride and went back to school and found everything had changed.

Mountain Bikes Get Upgraded

Over the past 16 years mountain bikes have evolved but in many ways I found my skills haven’t kept pace with the innovations. For example: during the Trestle 101 DH class I discovered that I’ve been hanging onto my brake levers the wrong way for years. Up until now I’ve always used 2 fingers to grab the levers but it turns out modern disc brakes don’t need as much force as the old Y-brakes did to engage. By using just a single finger to toggle the levers, I learned I can get the same braking performance while keeping a better grip on the bars for improved control. Duh.

Most serious XC mountain bikers eventually make the progression from flat pedals to the clipless variety and my own evolution followed a similar path. Early on I focused on the mechanics of clipping in and out but once I got that part down more I pretty much stopped learning. During a recent pedal stroke analysis and coaching session at 55Nine Performance I learned (among other things) that with the right cleat positioning and heel placement I could realize significantly more efficiency by applying fundamental leverage principles. I also found I had developed bad habits over time that could be corrected with a little professional instruction.

Bigger Terrain

Which came first, big bikes or big terrain? Technically big terrain has always existed, though recently it’s become more accessible via lift service and modern trail design. Big bikes followed soon after and for a guy who didn’t start out with any sort of mountain bike suspension (front or rear), this has been a big change. In some ways I feel like my background has been helpful for things like picking lines and balancing the bike but in other ways I have some catching up to do.

One of the things that surprised me after taking a couple DH classes this summer is how little I knew about riding downhill. As an XC rider I assumed DH mountain biking wasn’t really applicable to me but it turns out the two are related, sorta like math and science. The “full attack position” I learned all those years ago doesn’t really take advantage of today’s modern suspension but the cornering and jumping skills I picked up from Northstar’s instructors are directly applicable to descending on my XC bike. Riding uphill is all about becoming one with the bike while riding down (fast) is, in many ways, about separating your body from the bike.

After School Tutoring

Not everyone has the opportunity to receive professional mountain bike instruction but there is a way to get the help you need wherever you ride. Tag along with stronger or more experienced riders and observe specific skills to see where you can improve. For years I enjoyed showing new riders around the local trails and riding with my wife almost exclusively which was a lot of fun but didn’t help me improve my own skills. Recently I’ve started making it a point to ride with much stronger riders and I can see a big difference in my fitness and skill levels after just a short time.

If you’ve been riding for a while now, ask yourself what you’ve learned lately and if the answer is “not much,” perhaps it’s time to seek out some MTB instruction. A mind is a terrible thing to waste – and so is a high performance mountain bike – so take it from me: Stay in school!

image courtesy Patently Apple.

MacRumors reports on a recent patent application filed by Apple Computer related to a bike “super-computer” that could run on the iPhone and/or iPod. While many of the features mentioned aren’t groundbreaking (speed, cadence, heart rate, GPS routing, among others), there are a few interesting ideas worth mentioning.

Derailleur Settings

We don’t know of an existing sensor that records bike derailleur settings but it’s not too hard to imagine placing a transmitter in the shifters to keep track of gear ratios. Like the Nike+iPod system for running shoes, the sensor would need to be purchased separately or integrated into the shifters before purchase.

Communication Functions

This feature set has the potential to be a game changer, particularly in the world of competitive road cycling where team members are in constant communication with one another. One of the drawings submitted with the patent application shows a map with pins for each rider in a group, along with speed and cadence information for each rider. An obvious extension of this would be to show an estimate of how long it will take to catch a leading rider or to route lost riders back to their group.

Many of the communication functions discussed in the Apple patent seem geared toward the recreational rider including the ability to rate and recommend routes. Riders could also share their ride characteristics (i.e. how fast they are) to assist in forming group rides. In some ways it seems like this might be overkill but remember, this is just a patent application and not necessarily an actual product being developed.

Environmental Condition Tracking

The Apple patent also mentions the potential to track things like wind speed and weather which is interesting but seems useful for only the most serious riders. Besides, we’re imagining one of those spinning weather vanes with cup paddles on the handlebars – not very aero. Perhaps Apple has a more elegant solution involving pulling data from the National Weather Service based on time and location data along the ride. Of course there is such a thing as too much data and the real challenge will be building an interface that makes sense of all the information.

What About Mountain Bikes?

Most of the features listed here sound pretty roadie-centric which is probably a good idea since cyclists are more likely to have cell service on the pavement than on the dirt. And mounting a pricey iPhone on mountain bike handlebars is a risk many riders aren’t willing to take (stuffing the phone in a jersey pocket works but then you can’t see the screen to make use of all the cool features).

Assuming these hurdles could be overcome, we’d love to see a resurrection of our “virtual mountain bike race” concept from several years back. Basically the idea is to use the GPS features to conduct a time trial on a set course and to track the best times online. Then there’s also the whole mapping component – take track data from dozens of riders on a trail network and average the data to produce accurate trail maps. Hey Apple, if you wanna add this stuff to your patent app, let’s talk.

Now this is probably the ultimate in bike computer electronics: The PowerTap SL+. I really love this thing and I’m going to have a great time introducing this to everyone. Now to get the bad part out of the way: the MSRP on the PowerTap SL+ for MTB is $1699. Yes. that’s a steep price and costs more than many bikes out there but if you’re a serious racer or someone who truly wants cutting edge technology, then this is it – look no further!

The screen shot above shows the details tab from the included Power Agent software, the other half of this dynamic training duo. This graph shows a lap I rode at a local riding spot and covers 5 parameters: power output, speed, cadence, heart rate and torque. Cool? Yes. But there is so much more to the PowerTap SL+ that will make you a better, smarter rider. A super cool feature for those who have an ANT+ enabled device like the Garmin Edge 705 is that you can use that head unit in conjunction with the PowerTap SL+, allowing you to add elevation and temperature to your data collection. Double super cool!

Hardware

Before we get too far into the software, let’s go over the hardware and what you get in the box. Of course there’s the PowerTap hub, brake disk, and hardware for mounting the disk including shims and T25 bolts. There is also the wireless head unit, bracket, tire straps, and the coded heart rate monitor strap. On the desktop side there’s the Power Agent software, PC USB cable with base, product CDs and a neat “Training with PowerTap” guide by Allen Lim Ph.D. Essentially you get everything you need minus spokes, rim and QR. Just make sure to follow the building guide and have these wheels laced up in a 3X pattern for proper operation.

Assembling the PowerTap and wheel should be left up to a professional wheel builder. Based on the cost of the PowerTap SL+, the last thing you want to do is damage the hub. I ended up lacing my SL+ hub up to a Sunringle SR25 32-hole rim and double butted DT competition spokes with alloy nipples. With my truing stand, a little time, and a beer or two, I finally got the wheel tensioned correctly and was off. Out of the gate I wanted to make sure that this unit was reading correctly because I ultimately want to know how much power I am actually putting on the ground.

In my opinion, the best accessory is the one that you don’t know is there and that’s exactly how the PowerTap SL+ feels. With zero wires and a very small head unit that connects using just two tie straps and double-sided tape, this thing is pretty simple and low maintenance. Strap on the heart rate monitor, turn on the unit, and it’s recording.

Software

The screen shot about shows the summary screen in the Power Agent software (depending on when your hub was packaged it may include the 7.0 version). The Saris website is not only very informative but also very user-friendly so it’s a breeze to update the software no matter what version ships with your unit.

If you look at the data for a moment, it states that this particular segment was four minutes long. During that time you can see my heart rate range heart and power distribution. The software allows you to custom tune the actual parameters but as a novice user the initial settings work just fine. From past experience I know my heart rate always runs on the faster side of things and I can tune the data to better reflect that (consult a doctor first). You also have the ability to add notes for that day – type of weather, how you were feeling, where you were riding etc.

During training rides the PowerTap breaks the data into segments and saves it automatically. Segment breaks occur whenever you stop the bike for a few seconds and you can also tap both buttons simultaneously for two seconds to manually create a new segment (lap, marker, interval, etc.). The PowerTap has enough internal memory to save weeks worth of riding data without having to download and clear the memory. I usually couldn’t wait to check my data after each ride so I dumped the memory often after downloading the data to my PC.

The information contained within the included CDs features an electronic set-up guide that is very extensive and should be looked over before you go and start riding. The guide illustrates how to use the vast menu selection on the PowerTap plus it shows you how to set proper wheel size and other parameters.

On the trail

After using the PowerTap I can honestly say it has changed the way I ride and has made me a smarter rider. By paying close attention to how many watts are being used you start to think about how the terrain impacts energy usage. For example: riding at 12 mph on pavement (level ground) takes about 200 watts. On hardpack it’s 260 watts at the same speed and if you’re lazy and roll on to the grass at the side of that hardpack trail it jumps up to about 320 watts. This alone makes you rethink your line choices when riding. It also makes you think about how much energy are you expending on fumbled switchbacks and leg burning ascents. Sometimes spending a bit more energy coming into that turn (slightly faster) reduces peak output through the turn (in some cases I had to produce a good 900 watts to make a turn).

I used the PowerTap on both my XC (4″ bike) and my Trail /AM bikes (5-6″ depending on what suspension I was rocking at the time) and have had no problems with a bearing going bad or failure due to vibration. For my upcoming 24 hour race you can rest assured this unit will be there as a training aid and as a real-time measurement tool to help me improve my laps and conserve energy.

Now it’s not my place or intention to use this review as a know-all-guide to the PowerTap SL+. I’d love to go into more detail but it  would take several pages and I’m still not an expert by any means.  For further information, check out the Saris website.

I would like to thank the folks at Saris for sending over the PowerTap SL+ for review.

If anyone has any questions let me know – I would be happy to talk about the SL+ further.

Technical Specifications from Saris

• Wireless 2.4 GHz transmission featuring ANT+Sport
• Available in SL 2.4+ model
• USB Download.
• Coded heart rate.
• Proprietary 160mm heat treated rotor and carrier design. Fits most major disc manufacturers.
• Displays and records:
  • Power (current, average and max)
  • Heart Rate (current and average)
  • Cadence (current and average)
  • Speed (current, average, and max)
  • Energy Expenditure (total kjoules)
  • Ride Distance (miles or km)
  • Ride Time
  • Programmable Odometer
• Customizable display lets you show power, heart rate and cadence simultaneously.
• Download up to 15 hours of recording at 1-second recording rates.
• Records unlimited intervals.
• Functions as a downloadable heart rate monitor for multisport.
• Displays and records Power, Cadence and Speed with or without zeros, and Time of Day.
• Training with Power DVD included.
• CycleOps PowerAgent software included.
• Durable steel axle, alloy free hub body and sealed cartridge bearings.
• Carbon Fiber Power Windows
• Data is sent straight from the hub to the computer, no strings attached.
• 680g complete (incl. Rotors)
• Hole Counts: 32

Looking through the corner.

The sport of mountain biking (and especially downhill mountain biking) shares many similarities with the sport of downhill skiing and snowboarding. For the average cross-country or all-mountain biker, most of the congruent skills occur in the mental decision-making department.

I first learned of these similarities from my mountain biking master when I was but a young padawan. One of the fundamental skills of mountain biking is keeping the eyes up, looking down the hill and reading the trail. The general rule is: the faster you’re going, the farther ahead you need to look. As a beginner, this flies in the face of the instinctual urge to stare at your front wheel. This deceptive urge must be overcome. If you look down the trail, you know what’s coming at you. Your brain will remember what you have already seen and where your front wheel is going and what is directly in front of you. If you are staring at where the front wheel hits the ground, however, you will have no idea what is coming down the trail. Roots and rocks will catch you by surprise and cause you to crash. Quick hills and turns will come up suddenly and if you’re not looking ahead, you’ll shift late, and lose your flow.

This skill of looking down the trail is something that came very naturally to me due to my long history of downhill skiing. My ski skills have served me well and helped me catch onto the sport of mountain biking quickly, becoming a very technically adept rider in a short period of time.

Choosing a line on the fly while skiing.

One of the other major overlaps is the more nebulous art of line choice when attacking the trail. Skiing and mountain biking both teach you how to read the terrain ahead while choosing the line of least resistance (or the most fun line, or the line with the most air opportunities…). After interpreting what is coming down the trail into a line choice, both sports require decision making and follow-through to attack and dominate the line. This idea of attacking and riding a specific line is a more general idea and isn’t something that can be distinctly taught. It’s basically just a mindset, an over-arching way of approaching riding.

The mental overlap of these two sports can be greatly advantageous for the athlete that practices both.  In addition to honing these mental decision-making skills, the avid mountain biker will prevent cycling burn-out by cross training in a different sport during the off season instead of spending all of his time inside on a trainer. It is so much better to come into the mountain bike season refreshed and thirsting for some serious singletrack than being afflicted with cycling apathy.

So next winter, why not give skiing (or snowboarding) a try?

Goo has been a singletracks member since March 2008 and lives in Dahlonega, GA. Check out his blog at GregRidesTrails.com and add it to your RSS reader today!

So, you’re planning on purchasing or assembling your dream bike for the upcoming MTB season. What size should you choose? How long of a stem do you need? Should you get a setback seatpost? What’s the right bar width? I’ll try to answer all these questions and more in this article on mountain bike fitting.

Most bike shops do a good job helping customers find the right frame size and you can always double check by taking a peek at the bike manufacturer’s website or catalog. The size chart below is an example and as you can see there is a range for every frame size. Beyond height, this chart doesn’t take into account specific body measurements (torso size, leg length, etc.) and that’s where component fitting comes in.

So… it’s really up to you to get the perfect fit. Some bike shops offer fittings, usually at a cost nowadays (not including parts which is an additional cost). But looking at your body and sitting on the bike with someone holding you on, you can get a good idea of what fits or what feels best for you. But before you spend your cash, let’s cover the list of things we can change on the bike, what those changes will feel like, and what a retailer shop should be able to do to accommodate you when you purchase that shiny new bike.

Frame size: #1 most important item

Getting the right frame size is paramount. If you’re in between sizes and are planning on really riding rough, you may want the smaller size rather than the larger (easier to bail when things go wrong). Use a sizing chart to get an idea of where you fit, then check the actual bike. Hop on the bike and if possible, go for a test ride. You should also be able to get a sense of what’s going on with the fit just by sitting on the bike and pedaling backward.

At this point you should feel more or less comfortable: not up too high and stretched or too low and cramped. You should also be able to place your feet flat on the ground when you dismount the bike. Stand over height is a bit more difficult to gauge these days due to the newer, sloping top tube frames which give the illusion that the frame is smaller than it is. Instead, I focus my attention on the top tube length.

To find the right seat tube length, take your inseam (legs 6 inches apart) and multiply by .67 then subtract 4 inches. For example I have a 33 inch inseam. Multiplied by .67 I get 21.75 inches, take 4- 5 inches away I end up with a 17.5 inch frame set (which happens to be what I use).

MTB handlebar width

Sometimes due to your specific body type or riding style a wider than stock bar can be a good choice. As the bars widens, it allows more steering torque (great for nasty terrain) and slows your steering down. A bar change on its own will also pull you forward a bit. A wider bar also makes it easier to breathe as it encourages you to open your chest more when huffing up a hill. The good news is that most bike shops are willing to change to a wider bar if necessary. Once you have your bar width, work on shifter and brake positioning. Try to set both so your wrist is not bent in an awkward angle and there is a small degree of freedom there – about 15 degrees. Anything more than that and you are at risk of hurting yourself.

Stem length

Riders with disproportionate leg to torso sizes will want to take a look at changing up stem length for a more comfortable riding posture. A longer stem typically pulls the rider forward and flattens the back. The result is slowed steering and more traction to the front wheel.

Shortening the stem moves the rider toward the center of the bike and adds curvature to the back, leading to a more upright riding position. Ideally the rider should have elbows slightly bent when riding straight ahead which acts as a natural upper body shock absorber. Proper stem length and positioning alleviates upper body soreness and removes excessive force from the wrists. Most XC stems range in length from 70mm to 130mm. AM and DH stems can range from as short as 25mm to about 55mm+.

Seat post height and setback

Once you have the right frame size it’s time to set the seat post height and setback (for you folks who ride DH, FR, and DJ this does not apply). Starting with the seat parallel with the ground, set the cranks so that they are in line with your seat tube, projecting a straight line through the BB and to the floor. Hop on the bike and have someone support you while you position your feet on the pedals – ball of the foot on the axle and foot slightly pointing forward a couple degrees. You should not have your leg fully extended – there should be about 10-15 degrees of movement before your leg locks straight.

You can also use this formula as a decent starting point: Take your inseam measurement and multiply by .883. The result is the ballpark measurement from the top of the lower pedal to the top of the saddle. From here you may need to go up or down a quarter of an inch until it looks and feels right.

With the basic seat height position set, it’s time to check positioning front to back. With the cranks set at 3 and 9 o’clock, get a piece of string and tie a weight to it. Sit on the bike in your riding position and pedal backwards a few strokes and stop at 3 and 9 o’clock again (you’ll need a spotter to help). Hang the weighted string from the bony protrusion just below your knee cap and have a look at where the string intersects your crank – it should fall right at the pedal axle. If the string falls forward or behind, just slide the seat on the post to fix your positioning.

If you can’t adjust the seat far enough you may need to change your seatpost offset. There are seatpost offset options you can purchase from zero offsets all the way to 25mm offsets (see images below).

Handlebar height

You may find that your handlebars are too low or high. By adjusting bar height you’re trying to achieve:

• A comfortable back angle, depending on your degree of flexibility.
• A natural feel to look ahead without craning your neck.

There are a few solutions here. Firstly take a look at where your stem meets your steering tube. You may see a few spacers – if so great! You can adjust the shim stack position relative to the frame which will raise or lower the stem and bar. For example, placing all the shims below the stem will raise your bar up by that amount. If you don’t have shims, you may need to get either a riser bar or a riser stem. Easton sells the EA50 stem with either 6 or  20 degrees of rise. You can also choose from flat bars, mid rise bars (about 20mm), or full rise bars (from 35mm to 45mm depending on the model).

Crank arm length

You may want to consider changing up your crank arm length as well. Most manufacturers offer MTB cranks from 165mm to 180mm, usually in 5mm increments. The proper crank arm length is typically dependent on the rider’s height and inseam. So a short person (5′ – 5′.5″) may want to consider 165- 170mm cranks. For someone from 5′.5″ – 5′ 10″, a 175mm usually works well and taller folks may want to consider 175mm+ cranks. Now if you have short legs, a shorter crank arm may be a better choice. Or if you’re a quick peddler, a shorter crank arm may be the way to go as well.

COMFORT ZONES

This next section will help you consider a few items that can give you that “at one” feeling with your bike. There are really just 3 spots where body meets machine: handlebar grips, saddle, and pedals.

Handlebar grips

Before we talk about bar grips you should understand the two basic classes of grips. There are the lock-on types that are gaining popularity and the conventional style that holds onto the bar with friction. The difference? About $15.00. Seriously though, the new locking grips do work a bit better because they don’t slip and are easily removed and installed using an allen key to tighten.

Saying all that, there many MTB grip choices on the market today. When choosing consider a few things: What is your riding style? Are you an epic kinda person who will spend hours on the bike or are you a DH / FR type who needs maximum grip?

Pedal and cleat positions

Setting up your cleats is probably (in my opinion) the second most important fitting task. After all, the wrong positioning will increase strain in the knee and results in a less-than-ideal pedal stroke. Ideally you want the cleat set up so that if you draw a line from the center of the pedal axle up it will intersect with the widest part of your foot (where you apply the most force).

Use a mirror to take a look at the front of your feet and make sure they run parallel with your crank arms. This position will ease the load on your knee and ensures your feet will release from the pedals. One final note: many pedals feature adjustable tension and it’s often a good idea to start with the lightest tension where your feet barely wiggle (float). What you don’t want is a super solid feel to the pedal-shoe interface that hinders your foot’s natural tendency to twist on the back stroke.

Saddle

Selecting the right MTB saddle depends on a few things. For one, consider the type of riding you’ll be doing: racing, long epic rides, DH, etc. Do you need extra padding because your current saddle is killing you?

Aside from padding and support, take a look at saddle width. In short, your pelvic bone should match up to the widest part of the saddle. So if a saddle feels good, it’s probably the proper size for you.

This is by no means a definitive article on bike fitting but it’s based on years of personal experience fitting myself and others on their bikes. If you have question feel free to ask and I can clarify further as there are many more variables that can change a measurement or two in relationship to what was mentioned in this article.

A quick thanks to the good folks at OPUS for the sizing chart.

Cheers!

The Sportourer Touch Beat is a watch that neatly conceals a heart rate monitor into the face of the watch which means you don’t have to use a chest strap sensor to measure your heart rate. Although the Sportourer Touch Beat won’t hit the stores until late February or early March, I was fortunate to receive one for testing not too long ago.

True to is origins, the Touch Beat oozes Italian style and blends form and function seamlessly. The watch cover doubles as the heart rate sensor and is made of brushed, finished stainless steel and a durable high grade polycarbonate case designed to withstand the vibrations that come from riding or running. The dial face consists of a scratch-resistant mineral lens while the band is hypoallergenic-quality polyurethane with a brushed finish to match the stainless steel. You also get an adjustable chest transmitter (5kHz) for continuous heart rate monitoring that has an easily accessible battery.

The Touch Beat not only tells the time and your heart rate – it also includes a date feature, an alarm, a countdown timer, calorie counter, and a stop watch. The great thing about this is that all these features can run independently of each other and switching between them will not effect the function of the others (great when you’re timing yourself while doing a lap on a XC circuit all the while monitoring your heart rate and calculating calories). In heart rate mode, the Touch Beat will calculate your average heart rate, calories burned, and max/min rates. Super athletes like Lance Armstrong swear by heart rate monitoring and you can plug in your post workout data into training tools like the singletracks ride log to map your progress.

Looking at the face of the watch you can see graduated numbers along the edge ranging from 30 – 240 bpm and a quarter of the numbers are green. This green range is ideal for fitness training (115- 175bpm). The digital display illuminates a bar graph making it easy to see your heart rate at a glance (plus there’s also an exact digital HR reading in the center). When the lighting is low you can also illuminate the watch display by touching the reset and start/stop buttons. The watch hands and hour markers are also fluorescent which allows you to get the time at a glance in the dark. Between the hours of 4pm and 6pm the digital HR readout is partially obscured by the watch hand but I found this wasn’t a huge issue.

Although the Touch Beat is water resistant to 50 meters, Sportourer doesn’t recommend pushing the buttons while the watch is submerged. Not to worry, this watch is good to go in sweaty or wet conditions.

Using the Touch Beat

After using the Touch Beat for several weeks now, I have to say it’s been a great addition to my training. Once I learned the menus (keep the operation guide handy for a week or two), the Touch Beat seems to encourage me to train with it all the time and it’s super easy to use. Even without looking at the watch, I can tell if I’m in my cardio range: there’s a single beep when I hit 115 BPM and a double beep indicating my max heart rate (calculated using my age).

Now to get data like the calorie count, you’ll need to use the included chest strap. The strap is actually very convenient considering the alternative: bringing your hand across the handlebars to touch the watch face to get a heart rate (plus the touch measurement isn’t continuous). For running or flat riding the touch surface is fine but on the bike I prefer to use the strap. Fortunately the chest sensor is so slim that it hasn’t bothered me or caught on my clothing, even when wearing a tight jersey.

For $179.99 MSRP this is a nice tool to help you keep track of  your calorie burn and heart rate on the bike or on the run. Just as important, it looks like a million bucks so you can wear it all day long. Look for the Touch Beat in your local bike shop this spring!

Specs

Dimensions: 51mm x 47mm
Weight: 68 gr.
Accuracy: ± 15 sec/month
Case: Steel/Resin
Wrist Band: Rubber
Battery: CR 2032
HR Range: 30 – 240
Accuracy: ± 1 bpm
Water Resistant: 50mt. (5atm)

Thanks to the folks at Sportourer for the Touch Beat watch for a review.