So, you’re planning on purchasing or assembling your dream bike for the upcoming MTB season. What size should you choose? How long of a stem do you need? Should you get a setback seatpost? What’s the right bar width? I’ll try to answer all these questions and more in this article on mountain bike fitting.

Most bike shops do a good job helping customers find the right frame size and you can always double check by  taking a peek at the bike manufacturer’s website or catalog. The size chart below is an example and as you can see there is a range for every frame size. Beyond height, this chart doesn’t take into account specific body measurements (torso size, leg length, etc.) and that’s where component fitting comes in.

So… it’s really up to you to get the perfect fit. Some bike shops offer fittings, usually at a cost nowadays (not including parts which is an additional cost). But looking at your body and sitting on the bike with someone holding you on, you can get a good idea of what fits or what feels best for you. But before you spend your cash, let’s cover the list of things we can change on the bike, what those changes will feel like, and what a retailer shop should be able to do to accommodate you when you purchase that shiny new bike.

Frame size: #1 most important item

Getting the right frame size is paramount. If you’re in between sizes and are planning on really riding rough, you may want the smaller size rather than the larger (easier to bail when things go wrong). Use a sizing chart to get an idea of where you fit, then check the actual bike. Hop on the bike and if possible, go for a test ride. You should also be able to get a sense of what’s going on with the fit just by sitting on the bike and pedaling backward.

At this point you should feel more or less comfortable: not up too high and stretched or too low and cramped. You should also be able to place your feet flat on the ground when you dismount the bike. Stand over height is a bit more difficult to gauge these days due to the newer, sloping top tube frames which give the illusion that the frame is smaller than it is. Instead, I focus my attention on the top tube length.

To find the right top tube length, take your inseam (legs 6 inches apart) and multiply by .67 then subtract 4 inches. For example I have a 33 inch inseam. Multiplied by .67 I get 21.75 inches, take 4- 5 inches away I end up with a 17.5 inch frame set (which happens to be what I use).

MTB handlebar width

Sometimes due to your specific body type or riding style a wider than stock bar can be a good choice. As the bars widens, it allows more steering torque (great for nasty terrain) and slows your steering down. A bar change on its own will also pull you forward a bit. A wider bar also makes it easier to breathe as it encourages you to open your chest more when huffing up a hill. The good news is that most bike shops are willing to change to a wider bar if necessary. Once you have your bar width, work on shifter and brake positioning. Try to set both so your wrist is not bent in an awkward angle and there is a small degree of freedom there - about 15 degrees. Anything more than that and you are at risk of hurting yourself.

Stem length

Riders with disproportionate leg to torso sizes will want to take a look at changing up stem length for a more comfortable riding posture. A longer stem typically pulls the rider forward and flattens the back. The result is slowed steering and more traction to the front wheel.

Shortening the stem moves the rider toward the center of the bike and adds curvature to the back, leading to a more upright riding position. Ideally the rider should have elbows slightly bent when riding straight ahead which acts as a natural upper body shock absorber. Proper stem length and positioning alleviates upper body soreness and removes excessive force from the wrists. Most XC stems range in length from 70mm to 130mm. AM and DH stems can range from as short as 25mm to about 55mm+.

Seat post height and setback

Once you have the right frame size it’s time to set the seat post height and setback (for you folks who ride DH, FR, and DJ this does not apply). Starting with the seat parallel with the ground, set the cranks so that they are in line with your seat tube, projecting a straight line through the BB and to the floor. Hop on the bike and have someone support you while you position your feet on the pedals - ball of the foot on the axle and foot slightly pointing forward a couple degrees. You should not have your leg fully extended - there should be about 10-15 degrees of movement before your leg locks straight.

You can also use this formula as a decent starting point: Take your inseam measurement and multiply by .883. The result is the ballpark measurement from the top of the lower pedal to the top of the saddle. From here you may need to go up or down a quarter of an inch until it looks and feels right.

With the basic seat height position set, it’s time to check positioning front to back. With the cranks set at 3 and 9 o’clock, get a piece of string and tie a weight to it. Sit on the bike in your riding position and pedal backwards a few strokes and stop at 3 and 9 o’clock again (you’ll need a spotter to help). Hang the weighted string from the bony protrusion just below your knee cap and have a look at where the string intersects your crank - it should fall right at the pedal axle. If the string falls forward or behind, just slide the seat on the post to fix your positioning.

If you can’t adjust the seat far enough you may need to change your seatpost offset. There are seatpost offset options you can purchase from zero offsets all the way to 25mm offsets (see images below).

Handlebar height

You may find that your handlebars are too low or high. By adjusting bar height you’re trying to achieve:

• A comfortable back angle, depending on your degree of flexibility.
• A natural feel to look ahead without craning your neck.

There are a few solutions here. Firstly take a look at where your stem meets your steering tube. You may see a few spacers - if so great! You can adjust the shim stack position relative to the frame which will raise or lower the stem and bar. For example, placing all the shims below the stem will raise your bar up by that amount. If you don’t have shims, you may need to get either a riser bar or a riser stem. Easton sells the EA50 stem with either 6 or  20 degrees of rise. You can also choose from flat bars, mid rise bars (about 20mm), or full rise bars (from 35mm to 45mm depending on the model).

Crank arm length

You may want to consider changing up your crank arm length as well. Most manufacturers offer MTB cranks from 165mm to 180mm, usually in 5mm increments. The proper crank arm length is typically dependent on the rider’s height and inseam. So a short person (5′ - 5′.5″) may want to consider 165- 170mm cranks. For someone from 5′.5″ - 5′ 10″, a 175mm usually works well and taller folks may want to consider 175mm+ cranks. Now if you have short legs, a shorter crank arm may be a better choice. Or if you’re a quick peddler, a shorter crank arm may be the way to go as well.

COMFORT ZONES

This next section will help you consider a few items that can give you that “at one” feeling with your bike. There are really just 3 spots where body meets machine: handlebar grips, saddle, and pedals.

Handlebar grips

Before we talk about bar grips you should understand the two basic classes of grips. There are the lock-on types that are gaining popularity and the conventional style that holds onto the bar with friction. The difference? About $15.00. Seriously though, the new locking grips do work a bit better because they don’t slip and are easily removed and installed using an allen key to tighten.

Saying all that, there many MTB grip choices on the market today. When choosing consider a few things: What is your riding style? Are you an epic kinda person who will spend hours on the bike or are you a DH / FR type who needs maximum grip?

Pedal and cleat positions

Setting up your cleats is probably (in my opinion) the second most important fitting task. After all, the wrong positioning will increase strain in the knee and results in a less-than-ideal pedal stroke. Ideally you want the cleat set up so that if you draw a line from the center of the pedal axle up it will intersect with the widest part of your foot (where you apply the most force).

Use a mirror to take a look at the front of your feet and make sure they run parallel with your crank arms. This position will ease the load on your knee and ensures your feet will release from the pedals. One final note: many pedals feature adjustable tension and it’s often a good idea to start with the lightest tension where your feet barely wiggle (float). What you don’t want is a super solid feel to the pedal-shoe interface that hinders your foot’s natural tendency to twist on the back stroke.

Saddle

Selecting the right MTB saddle depends on a few things. For one, consider the type of riding you’ll be doing: racing, long epic rides, DH, etc. Do you need extra padding because your current saddle is killing you?

Aside from padding and support, take a look at saddle width. In short, your pelvic bone should match up to the widest part of the saddle. So if a saddle feels good, it’s probably the proper size for you.

This is by no means a definitive article on bike fitting but it’s based on years of personal experience fitting myself and others on their bikes. If you have question feel free to ask and I can clarify further as there are many more variables that can change a measurement or two in relationship to what was mentioned in this article.

A quick thanks to the good folks at OPUS for the sizing chart.

Cheers!

The Sportourer Touch Beat is a watch that neatly conceals a heart rate monitor into the face of the watch which means you don’t have to use a chest strap sensor to measure your heart rate. Although the Sportourer Touch Beat won’t hit the stores until late February or early March, I was fortunate to receive one for testing not too long ago.

True to is origins, the Touch Beat oozes Italian style and blends form and function seamlessly. The watch cover doubles as the heart rate sensor and is made of brushed, finished stainless steel and a durable high grade polycarbonate case designed to withstand the vibrations that come from riding or running. The dial face consists of a scratch-resistant mineral lens while the band is hypoallergenic-quality polyurethane with a brushed finish to match the stainless steel. You also get an adjustable chest transmitter (5kHz) for continuous heart rate monitoring that has an easily accessible battery.

The Touch Beat not only tells the time and your heart rate - it also includes a date feature, an alarm, a countdown timer, calorie counter, and a stop watch. The great thing about this is that all these features can run independently of each other and switching between them will not effect the function of the others (great when you’re timing yourself while doing a lap on a XC circuit all the while monitoring your heart rate and calculating calories). In heart rate mode, the Touch Beat will calculate your average heart rate, calories burned, and max/min rates. Super athletes like Lance Armstrong swear by heart rate monitoring and you can plug in your post workout data into training tools like the singletracks ride log to map your progress.

Looking at the face of the watch you can see graduated numbers along the edge ranging from 30 - 240 bpm and a quarter of the numbers are green. This green range is ideal for fitness training (115- 175bpm). The digital display illuminates a bar graph making it easy to see your heart rate at a glance (plus there’s also an exact digital HR reading in the center). When the lighting is low you can also illuminate the watch display by touching the reset and start/stop buttons. The watch hands and hour markers are also fluorescent which allows you to get the time at a glance in the dark. Between the hours of 4pm and 6pm the digital HR readout is partially obscured by the watch hand but I found this wasn’t a huge issue.

Although the Touch Beat is water resistant to 50 meters, Sportourer doesn’t recommend pushing the buttons while the watch is submerged. Not to worry, this watch is good to go in sweaty or wet conditions.

Using the Touch Beat

After using the Touch Beat for several weeks now, I have to say it’s been a great addition to my training. Once I learned the menus (keep the operation guide handy for a week or two), the Touch Beat seems to encourage me to train with it all the time and it’s super easy to use. Even without looking at the watch, I can tell if I’m in my cardio range: there’s a single beep when I hit 115 BPM and a double beep indicating my max heart rate (calculated using my age).

Now to get data like the calorie count, you’ll need to use the included chest strap. The strap is actually very convenient considering the alternative: bringing your hand across the handlebars to touch the watch face to get a heart rate (plus the touch measurement isn’t continuous). For running or flat riding the touch surface is fine but on the bike I prefer to use the strap. Fortunately the chest sensor is so slim that it hasn’t bothered me or caught on my clothing, even when wearing a tight jersey.

For $179.99 MSRP this is a nice tool to help you keep track of  your calorie burn and heart rate on the bike or on the run. Just as important, it looks like a million bucks so you can wear it all day long. Look for the Touch Beat in your local bike shop this spring!

Specs

Dimensions: 51mm x 47mm
Weight: 68 gr.
Accuracy: ± 15 sec/month
Case: Steel/Resin
Wrist Band: Rubber
Battery: CR 2032
HR Range: 30 – 240
Accuracy: ± 1 bpm
Water Resistant: 50mt. (5atm)

Thanks to the folks at Sportourer for the Touch Beat watch for a review.

Living in the Great White North I get very cold weather and snow during the winter months so staying motivated and in shape for mountain biking can be a challenge. When the weather is too bad to ride I often get bored and look for other things to do. I figure I could drink or just play MTB video games but that’s counter-productive and catches up to me when the trails finally do thaw out. Lifting weights is a good idea but it doesn’t give me the cardio I’m looking for so I had to come up with a better solution. Fortunately I found the CycleOps Super Magneto Pro from Saris. From full-on pro-level indoor exer-cycles that would fit in at any serious gym all the way down to rear-wheel trainers like the Super Magneto Pro, Saris has your indoor bike training needs covered.

The CycleOps Super Magneto Pro ($399 MSRP) is second from the top level Saris rear-wheel trainer and it converts your mountain or road bike into a stationary exer-cycle. Just in case you’re wondering, the top performer Power Beam Pro ($1,199 MSRP) is the wireless, customizable unit with all the bells and whistles. Now if I were training to race Geoff Kabush I might be worthy of the Power Beam Pro, but seeing I am not the Super Magneto Pro is more than enough for my training needs.

The Super Magneto Pro comes almost fully assembled and ready to go - all you have to do is change over your quick release to the one that is provided by Saris. Out of the box you get the Super Magneto Pro fully assembled, the special QR, a training video called Race Day, and the warranty card. When unpacking the unit, fold out the legs and make sure each one clicks into place before leveling the trainer using the adjustable leg. Turning the thumb-wheel clockwise or counterclockwise will extend or retract the leg. Next, set the bike on the trainer using the Pro’s secure skewer clamp and make sure you engage the lock pin. The lock pin will prevent the skewer clamp from backing away - just follow the well written user guide and you’ll be ready to sweat in no time!

Once the bike is situated on the trainer it’s time engage the resistance unit with your rear wheel. The Super Magneto Pro will work even for those folks who have 29ers - just adjust the trainer to accommodate your wheel.

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend getting a slick MTB tire which will spare your knobbies. Using a knobby mountain bike tire will also generate excessive noise and vibration.

With the Super Magneto Pro you get four levels of resistance which offer up to 680 watts of power at 30 mph which is pretty good considering that most people will have a very hard time maintaining that level of power output. Using the Super Magneto I found I was using the top two settings the most (Mountain and Interval). Seeing that I have little time at home to spend on the trainer those two settings were the most suitable for my style of training (more on that at a later date). The Easy and Road settings are better for those who are just getting started with cycling or for those who want a lower impact session.

I have to say, after trying out a few trainers the Super Magneto Pro is one of the smoothest and quietest units I have used in a long time. This allows me to spin late at night while my son is asleep without waking him up with the noise that can be generated by some other units. This trainer provides good resistance and has a fairly realistic pavement feel to it. With my 26″ inch wheels I got the best results in my 44 tooth ring (big gear).

For those who really want to take indoor training to the next level, be sure to also get yourself a bike computer that can measure wheel speed and cadence. Without a way to measure speed and cadence you will only be able to judge how well you’re doing by sweat and perception of feel which for me, wasn’t enough.

When working out you may want to place your trainer in front of the TV and watch the video that comes with it. I found the video helped burn the time and gave me some great ideas about how to train on my own. I would love to see an MTB version of this video but hey, maybe next year.

Overall I am very happy with the performance and ease of use of the Super Magneto Pro. It’s ultra stable with just enough flex so that when you’re hammering on the pedals the bike moves well on the unit. I only wish there was a trainer in between the Super Magneto Pro and the full-blown Power beam Pro to measure performance indicators like heart rate, cadence or speed.

In the coming months I will set up a training log and post some more tips and tricks on using a trainer like the Super Magneto Pro. Resolve with me to get in your best biking shape this winter!

Thanks to the folks at Saris for providing the Super Magneto Pro  for review.

So this is actually an old study (2006) but I just read some commentary about this over on seriousrunning.com this week. Apparently cyclists who took Viagra as part of a study increased performance (cycling, that is) by up to 45% at high altitudes. Not everyone in the study showed signs of improvement but for those who did it sounds like it was pretty significant.

It’s interesting to note that the altitudes we’re talking about here - above 12,700 feet - are pretty extreme. Couple that with the fact that the study found no boost at sea level and it’s sorta questionable whether this matters at all. Of course this hasn’t stopped pro cyclists from being caught with bags full of Viagra at the Giro d’Italia and other big races. Back in 2008 the World Anti-Doping Agency began investigating Viagra to see whether the substance should be banned but as far as I can tell they’re still studying the issue.

Even the Leadville 100 MTB race doesn’t quite make it up to 12,700 feet above sea level but it’s probably close enough that popping a Viagra might help racers get to the top. Even more promising seems to be the idea of using Viagra to treat altitude sickness. So the next time you head out for an epic ride above tree line, consider bringing a couple Viagras in your pack - you never know when you might need them

I’ll leave the rest of the Viagra jokes to the commenters below.

Rebecca Rusch wins the 2009 Leadville 100

Back in September I got a chance to chat with 2009 Leadville winner and 2-time 24 Hour Solo World Champion Rebecca Rusch about racing, training, and mountain bike trails. Meeting Rusch for the first time I was instantly struck by how friendly she comes across despite being such a fierce competitor on the racecourse. A cool confidence seems to underlie everything she says and her enthusiasm for mountain biking is seriously contagious.

Rusch tells me she got into mountain biking through adventure racing several years ago, though MTB wasn’t exactly her favorite part of racing. After winning a qualifying race for the Australian Eco-challenge in 2001, Rusch quit her job and decided to go pro. In the beginning she says she wasn’t great at mountain biking (hard to believe) but ended up doing well at 24 Hours of Moab so she stuck with it.  At age 40 she’s in top mountain bike racing shape and in her first Leadville 100 appearance she proved it, coming in a full 25 minutes ahead of the second place woman. For those who got a chance to watch “Race Across the Sky” last month, you’ll remember Rusch saying she had no idea how she was doing during the race so she just pretended every rider in front of her was a woman she needed to catch. Talk about determination.

As a 24 Hour Solo champion, 100-mile race winner, and MTB stage racer I asked Rusch if she thought the trend toward longer, more extreme mountain bike races would continue.

“Limits are where we put them,” she replied, as naturally as if I’d asked her favorite color. Races like Leadville and stage racing are becoming more accessible to amateur competitors, allowing anyone to push their limits and Rusch sees that trend continuing for the next several years.

Of course to be competitive in mountain biking it’s super important to use the most effective training tools available. I asked Rusch how she was using technology to boost performance and she surprised me by saying she only recently started tracking cycling power data this year. More important than geeking out with measurements and computers, she says training is all about listening to your body and enjoying the ride. If only it were that easy for the rest of us…

I asked Rebecca to tell me about her favorite mountain bike trails and she says her favorites are the ones that combine plenty of pedaling with interesting terrain. The McKenzie River Trail in Oregon tops her list along with the Alpine Trail, also in Oregon. Rusch lives in Ketchum, Idaho so many of her training rides take her through Sun Valley, ID where the singletrack is scenic and never ending.

As a Specialized Team rider, Rebecca has access to the latest and greatest mountain bikes and she tells me her primary rig is an Era FSR Marathon with 4” of rear travel. Rusch has been experimenting recently with a 29er hardtail for competition and after alternating between her FS and 29er bikes during a 24 Hour race she decided to rock the 29er HT at Leadville. Apparently the decision paid off for her, despite the fact that none of the top 5 male finishers rode 29ers at Leadville this year.

Last month Rusch competed in the women’s duo class at 24 Hours of Moab and took first with teammate Gretchen Reeves. She was also on hand at the premier of Race Across the Sky in NYC on October 22 and even hung out with fans at the after party. This month she’ll be competing in Vuelta al Cotopaxi, a 2-day MTB stage race in Ecuador.

Rebecca Rusch is truly an amazing competitor and an inspiration to anyone who likes to ride fast and long. Keep up with her (if you can!) on her blog @ rebeccarusch.wordpress.com.

photo courtesy cyclewise.co.uk.

So this is a cool concept: a mountain bike trail built explicitly for mountain bike coaching. The Cyclewise Coaching Trail provides a place for mountain bike coaches to work with students without having to worry about other trail users bombing down and interrupting lessons. The grand opening is set for October 17.

Judging by the (overly stylized) photo above you might think this is just a wide, soft mulch-strewn trail for teaching newbs to ride off road but apparently there’s more to it than that. Cyclewise says this trail includes “3 berms, 3 table tops, a rythmn section, drop offs and step ups as well as a technical climb and descent” which should be challenging for even advanced riders. Seems like a good alternative to teaching yourself to land 10 foot drops by trial and error

Here in the US it’s not unusual for new trails to include skills areas that offer progressively larger and more difficult technical trail features but most are open to the general public. I imagine this idea might be tough to implement here due to liability concerns plus there isn’t really a culture of mountain bike coaching in the US (yet). As more and more high school mountain bike leagues start up this might change though…

via SingletrackWorld.

For those who have purchased or are thinking about purchasing a singletracks premium subscription, just wanted to let you know about some recent improvements.

High resolution trail maps in PDF

We’re rolling out high resolution versions of all our mountain bike trail maps (780 and counting!) that subscribers can download in PDF format. That’s in addition to the printer-friendly and interactive versions that are currently available (not to mention the raw trail data in GPX, KML, and TCX) . So far more than 125 PDF trail maps have been posted - look for the rest to come on line this fall!

Training app updates

Ahead of a major overhaul of the premium ride log, we’re spiffing up the charts and graphs to make it even easier to visualize your training progress.

More cool stuff to come in the next two months, stay tuned!

photo: 10K trail running race on the 1996 Olympic MTB course, sponsored by Dirty Spokes

A lot of people ask me why I run so much - usually 3-4 days a week - and I always tell them it’s to make me a better mountain biker. The truth is my schedule doesn’t always allow me to get the time I need in the saddle and running is a pretty good way to build and maintain endurance for mountain biking.

Over the past few years I’ve been getting into trail running and I gotta say it’s about as close as you can get to mountain biking without the wheels. At a recent MTB trail work day one of the volunteer leaders mentioned that trail runners and mountain bikers typically travel trails at the same speed (on average) which I never thought about before. Of course mountain bikers do the passing on the descents while the trail runners can often pass mountain bikers going up

When I lived in North Carolina there were a ton of trails near my house but very few of them allowed mountain bikes. Instead of hiking to explore the local trails (slow and boring) I ran ‘em. I even found that after trail running a local MTB trail I knew the trail much better than if I had only biked there. That knowledge came in handy the next time I was out on my bike as I was bombing through familiar turns and bouncing over rocks and roots that I knew like the back of my hand. Trail running is also a good MTB substitute on days when the trails are too wet for riding.

Many of the mountain bikers I know got into the sport because of bone or joint problems that prevented them from other forms of exercise like running. Mountain biking is certainly low impact but it turns out trail running is pretty low impact as well. By avoiding the pavement and sticking to soft dirt, trail runners minimize much of the pounding associated with road running. If you’ve had to stop running due to joint issues you may want to try a short jog at the local MTB trail to see if that works for you.

For those who haven’t tried trail running before, here’s a good chance to give it a go: August 22 is National Trail Running Day. Hit up trailrunningday.org to find an event near you or head over to SeriousRunning.com (one of our sister sites) to find and review running trails. While trail running will never compare to mountain biking for me, it’s definitely a good way to stay in shape and a fun way to explore trails closed to bikes.

You’ve probably heard it before or maybe you’ve even said it yourself: Mountain biking is a great exercise because it’s so low impact. According to an article in the New York Times online cycling may be a little too low impact because many serious cyclists have low bone density. I guess it’s possible to get too much of a good thing…

The first argument that cyclists have low bone density points to the fact that cyclists do seem to suffer from a high number of broken bones. Heck, even Lance Armstrong recently broke his collar bone in a crash (his first cycling-related bone break I believe) but to me that’s more about the physics of crashing than it is about brittle bones. Go big or go home, right?

In a slightly more rigorous bone density study, competitive cyclists were found to have below average bone densities at the start of racing season and bone densities continued to decline through the season. Another study found many cyclists in their twenties had osteopenia which is just one step below osteoporosis. Yikes!

Earlier studies have shown that mountain bikers tend to have better bone densities than road cyclists and doctors think this might have to do with the higher impact nature of off-road riding. Runners, by contrast, pound their bodies day after day and in general appear to have excellent bone health.

If you’re worried about your own bone density check with your doctor but also consider upping your calcium intake. Research shows that drinking fluids containing calcium during a workout can slow bone calcium loss over fluids that do not contain calcium. Even mainstream sports drinks contain calcium these days - for example Powerade Ion has 2.5 mg of calcium per serving.

At the end of the day most of us probably won’t have to worry about low bone density due to mountain biking unless we’re spending hours in the saddle every day. If you’re like me you should be much more worried about crashes

Let me start this out by saying I almost never review nutrition or hydration products. Nutrition and hydration choices will generally be specific to each rider and what works for me might not work for you (and vice versa). And that’s precisely what makes Me & Goji so interesting and different: it’s customized nutrition that’s perfect for mountain bikers, whether you’re in training or just trying to stay healthy.

When I started training for the Sumter Metric Century back in March I’d typically eat a bowl of sugary cereal (something like Corn Pops or Honey Comb – no kidding) before heading out on a long weekend ride. Of course I’d feel full when I left the house but by the time I drove to the trailhead I’d start to feel hungry and I’d typically eat a pack of peanut butter crackers right away. During the ride I ate stuff like granola bars, peanut butter & jelly sandwiches, etc. – whatever I could to get the calories I needed. Clearly this is not the diet of champion riders

About halfway through my training program I got the chance to try a custom cereal mix from Me & Goji and not surprisingly it made a huge difference. First off: one bowl of the cereal kept me full until lunch time, even on long rides. In designing my custom cereal mix I stuck to the basic artisanal cereal base which is made from organic multigrain oat bran flakes – hearty stuff that fills you up and stays with you, even on epic spins.

Of course the artisanal cereal base is good for you and has a nice crunch but frankly it’s not all that sexy or tasty on its own (it’s no Honey Comb I can tell you that ). The really cool thing about Me & Goji is they allow you to customize your cereal by adding various dry fruits, nuts, seeds, and flavors. I added quinoa flakes (revered by Incan warriors for the stamina they provide – all 9 amino acids in one package), goji (a superfruit from the Himalaya packed with phytochemicals), and chia seeds (also used by ancient warriors, chia seeds absorb 12 times their weight in water and prolong incredible levels of hydration). For flavor I added dried apples, cinnamon, and pecans

The Me & Goji website makes it easy to drag and drop ingredients into your cereal mix and within a few minutes I was able to create and order my creation. You can even name your mix and the name is printed right on the cereal canister – how’s that for customization? All the nutrition info is updated as you create your mix so you can make sure what you’re getting is good for you.

Building a custom cereal is certainly more expensive than buying “off the shelf” but with Me & Goji you’re actually getting 21 oz. of food (compare to 15 oz. or less in a typical cereal box). In terms of nutrition and fuel for your body you really can’t do much better than a personalized mix from Me & Goji – give it a try before your next epic ride!

If you’re looking for a powerful tool to help you with your mountain bike training, look no further than the CS600X from Polar. The CS600X tracks your every move on the bike, nags you like a coach when you’re slacking off, works well with others, and comes in one of the slickest handlebar packages around.

Training Functions On Board

In terms of cycling-specific data recording, no other device I’ve seen compares to the Polar CS600X. Basics like distance and speed are monitored by the included W.I.N.D. wireless speed sensor while the heart rate sensor tracks your vitals (wirelessly, natch). Some heart rate straps I’ve tested can be finicky when syncing but not this one – clearly Polar knows heart rate and they know wireless (more on that later). The CS600X also includes a built-in thermometer and a barometric altimeter to track climbs and descents.

Unlike some cycling computers or even GPS units, the Polar doesn’t overwhelm you with data when you’re on the bike. Sure, you can view basic stats and even simple time-based graphs of heart rate or elevation, but overall the screen helps you focus more on riding, less on “fiddling.” With training plans and sport zones you can program the Polar CS600X to alert you when you reach certain levels or milestones but the great thing is you don’t have to look down during your ride except to start or stop the timer! (That is, unless you want to keep an eye on things.)

If you’re serious about your training the CS600X will help you take things to the next level, particularly if you’re working with a coach who can help you analyze things like heart rate and pace data. A coach can also help you create a training plan and define heart rate zones that can be downloaded to the CS600X – kinda like having your coach with you on the bike Even if you don’t have a coach the CS600X includes a fitness test function that measures your heart rate to estimate your overall fitness level. I’m not sure what the resulting number means (if anything) but it’s helpful for setting a fitness baseline and seeing how you improve over time.

Accessories

Beyond distance, speed, elevation, heart rate, and temperature sensors, you can also pair the Polar CS600X with optional accessories like a power meter and GPS sensor. Power meters are mostly for the road riders (though admittedly some of my MTB training does take place on skinny tires) but the GPS is definitely something I’m into.

The Polar G3 GPS sensor is just a bit larger than the CS600X itself and can be attached to you or your bike within a few feet of the CS600X. I found it worked well snapped to my Camelbak but it also worked great tucked into a rear jersey pocket on the road. Signal acquisition is quick and pairing it with the CS600X is a snap (just be sure to read the included instructions). The G3 is water resistant and I certainly put this to the test riding in soggy spring conditions that included more than a few downpours – no hitches.

Speed and distance data is transmitted wirelessly from the G3 GPS sensor to the CS600X which means you can keep the speed sensor permanently installed on your road bike or even ditch it altogether. The data seemed fairly accurate compared to other GPS units I’ve tested and is stored on the CS600X for later analysis. Unfortunately you can’t use the G3 GPS for real-time trail navigation since it doesn’t generate an on-screen map but unlike many cycling specific GPS devices, the G3 GPS sensor uses just a single AA battery that can be easily replaced on a super epic ride.

After the ride, GPS data can be accessed via the included Polar ProTrainer 5 software where you can see a map of your route and even export data to your favorite GPX software or Google Earth. I’ll talk more about the ProTrainer 5 software in an upcoming review – there’s just way too much to cover in one post!

The Package

Ok, this is where Polar really hit it out of the park (dude - the CS600X won an International Forum Design award in 2008!). The CS600X is about half the size of any cycling-specific GPS unit I’ve seen and it weighs half as much. It’s aerodynamic, ergonomic, and despite it’s svelte package it gets incredible battery life. I’ve already put a few hundred miles on my CS600X and haven’t had to replace the batteries yet! Other GPS units would have been recharged half a dozen times already.

The included bike mounting system is rock solid, even over sketchy terrain. Use the included zip-ties to attach the mount to your bars and twist the CS600X to lock it in – dead simple. Even if you (ahem) accidentally leave the CS600X on your bike for the drive back home, it will stay put at 70mph on your car roof (not that I recommend putting this claim to the test).

You may have noticed I’ve been using the word “wireless” a lot in this review and it turns out this is a big part of what makes the CS600X so freakin’ sexy. The CS600X doesn’t have a single data port or outlet on it which means it’s incredibly water resistant (and again, aerodynamic). But how, you may ask, do you get data from the CS600 to your computer? The answer: wirelessly.

Yep, just plug in the included Polar IrDA USB adapter into your computer and point your CS600X, remote control style. Bling, you’re done. No more futzing with cables – Polar makes it easy to download and analyze your training data after EVERY workout. Genius.

Bottom Line

If you’re looking for a powerful way to take your training to the next level, let the Polar CS600X help you get you there. You won’t find a more complete solution for tracking every training variable you can imagine in such a tiny, user-friendly package!

Stay tuned for a review of the other half of the Polar CS600X equation – ProTrainer 5 software (included with the Polar CS600X).

Another damp weekend training ride in north Georgia.

I’m less than 2 weeks away from my first metric dirty century in Sumter National Forest and this weekend I had my toughest training ride yet. For those who don’t know a metric century is 100 kilometers or 62.2 miles and my plan has been to gradually increase my long weekend rides until I get close to 60 miles or about 5 hours on the bike. One week ago I rode 60 miles but that was on a road bike riding a flat course (and it took just over 3 hours).

Saturday I got an early start outside Dahlonega, GA where I tackled the Canada Creek loop, Winding Stairs, and Camp Wahsega Rd. After 5+ hours I covered 48 miles and nearly 5,000 feet of climbing which is about 4,200 feet more than I’ll probably climb in the Sumter Metric Century. The hardest part of the ride was probably the middle - miles 20 to 30 - mainly because I felt like I had gone so far already but still had so far to go. I was surprised that the mental challenge of riding long distance was nearly as difficult as the physical challenge of pushing the pedals mile after mile. At any rate, I survived and I feel good about the race on May 16.

Throughout my training I’ve been using the Polar CS600X cycling computer and even though I’ve been using it for more than a month I probably still haven’t used half the functions. Polar is known for heart rate monitors and cycling computers but the CS600X ups the ante with an optional GPS pod, cadence and power sensors, and wireless data transfer to your PC. I’ve been stuffing the GPS pod into my back jersey pocket where it seems to get a great signal every time - impressive stuff, especially given that even handlebar mounted units often lose reception in the woods.

The Polar CS600X comes with ProTrainer 5 software which lets you view amazing detail about your workouts in an easy to use calendar interface. You can plot heart rate, speed, elevation, time, etc. and even view the data overlaid on a map of your ride (thanks to the GPS). The CS600X even lets you view basic charts and graphs while you’re on the bike which is great for monitoring heart rate and elevation trends mid-workout.

Look for a detailed review of the Polar CS600X later this month after I put it through its paces during the Sumter Metric Century May 16!