We get a lot of questions about tubeless mountain bike tires here on Singletracks, so I thought it was time to put together a tubeless guide.  I’m not going to get into specific brands and components, but instead give you an overview of the various systems and point you in the right direction so you can choose what works best for your budget and riding style.

WHY TUBELESS?

This is the big question: why go tubeless?  There are several advantages to losing tubes.  I’ll cover the general theory here, but there is a lot more detailed information out there on the web if you search for it.

Lower tire pressure: Without a tube you can run lower tire pressures without worry of pinch flatting since there’s no tube to pinch.  The lower pressures will allow the tire to more easily conform to the ground, providing a more comfortable ride and more traction, as well as lower rolling resistance.

Less rolling resistance: This could be an entire post all by itself, so I’ll try to keep it quick and simple. Rolling resistance is caused by the interaction of the tire and the ground.  The first thing you need to get out of your head is the old school roadie theory of high tire pressure equaling lower rolling resistance.  We’re not using skinny smooth tires on a smooth hard surface.  We’re using fat knobby tires on an uneven, bumpy, sometimes soft and loose surface where the physics are different.  When you hit a bump the wheel either moves up and/or the tire deflects around/over the bump.  This deflection requires energy, and that energy is robbed from your forward momentum, slowing you down.  So the less energy it takes to deform the tire, and the less forward momentum becomes upward momentum, the less forward energy you lose.  Using lower tire pressure is the easiest way to allow the tire to deform over irregularities in the trail instead of forcing the wheel upward.

When using tubes there is also friction between the tube and tire, and this friction has to be overcome to allow the tire to deform.  By getting rid of the tube you get rid of that friction, and reduce the energy needed to deform the tire.   For more reading on the science of rolling resistance check out this page which provides a summary of an article in a German mountain bike magazine.

Fewer flat tires: Without a tube you no longer have to worry about pinch flats since there’s no tube to pinch.  In very rare cases you can pinch the tire – but I only know one person who has ever done this.  Also since you’ll be using a sealant, any punctures will get sealed up without you even knowing it ever happened.  If you do get a puncture the sealant can’t seal, simply install a tube like normal and continue the ride.

Improved ride feel: By getting rid of tubes you get a much better feel for what your tires are doing.  The ride gets smoother, faster, easier; you have to feel it yourself to really understand.  The tires even sound different!

Less weight: Weight loss is not the main advantage of tubeless, it’s just an extra perk.  You may not even lose any weight, depending on which tubeless system you use.

Disadvantages: Installing tires without tubes can be a pain, and sometimes requires an air compressor.  So if you like to change tires often, tubes are certainly easier.

Where the rubber meets the dirt.  Ditch the tubes, and improve the interaction.

HOW TO DO IT

There are three ways to go tubeless.  You can convert non-tubeless wheels, use a tubeless-ready system, or use a UST system.  Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Conversion Kits: Stan Koziatek developed the first reliable and commercially available tubeless conversion kit back in 2000 when he formed NoTubes, and his kits are still the benchmark that all others are measured against.  The kit helps you convert nearly any rim and tire to tubeless and retails for around $60-$70, making this the cheapest way to try tubeless since you don’t need to buy new wheels or tires.

Downsides: Kits will not give you the lightest set-up and getting the tire bead seated and holding air usually cannot be done with a floor pump – for that you’ll need an air compressor.

Some rims convert more easily than others, as do some tires.  Research before you buy!  Some riders have experimented with “ghetto tubeless” set ups, where they fashion their own rim strip of out a 20″ tube.  Some have success with this method, but I can’t recommend it personally.

UST – Universal System for Tubeless: UST was developed by Mavic in the late 90′s.  It is a tubeless standard, meaning the rim and tire bead shapes are manufactured to very specific specs with tight tolerances and for any product to bear the UST label it must go through inspection and testing to be approved.  This means any UST rim is guaranteed to work with any UST tire, but tire selection isn’t great (especially for 29ers) and the tires are usually more expensive because of the approval process.  Non-UST tires do not generally play well with UST rims.

UST also has the tightest fitting beads, which makes installation a pain but allows for an extremely secure bead hook which is great for truly aggressive riding (think DH racing).  UST tires have an extra layer of air-tight rubber in the casing so they don’t require sealant like the other two systems, but this adds weight and makes the tires stiffer.  Most riders will use sealant anyways for puncture protection.  I have heard sometimes you can get the tires installed using a floor pump, but sometimes an air compressor is needed.  Pretty much every rim and tire manufacturer has UST products.

Tubeless Ready: Tubeless ready is the way of the future I think.  Tubeless ready rims basically allow you to use any tire – without tubes.  There are tubeless-ready tires as well, with tighter fitting and stronger beads.  Unlike UST, tubeless-ready set ups require sealant to make the tires air tight, and the bead shapes vary from one manufacturer to another – so some tires and rims work better together than others.  Tubeless-ready tires are often easier to set up than regular tires, usually with a floor pump.

Tubeless-ready systems are generally the lightest option since many do not require the thick rubber rim strip like conversion kits (some use a rubber strip, others use lightweight tape instead) and the tires do not have the extra air-tight layer of rubber like UST.  Without that extra air-tight layer in the casing, tubeless-ready tires are more supple than UST tires.  Specialized, Bontrager, Geax, Hutchinson, NoTubes, and WTB all make tubeless-ready mountain bike tires.  More and more manufacturers are introducing tubeless-ready tires, with Schwalbe being the latest, and Kenda promising some in the near future.  But again, most standard tires can be set up tubeless on tubeless ready rims, so there are tons of tire options to choose from.

YOUR EXPERIENCES

Tell us about your tubeless experiences in the comments below!  What systems have you tried, what worked well, what didn’t work well, etc.

In my first post on Squirt lube, I told you about the main claims it makes: self cleaning and long lasting.  I’ve put over 250 miles on it so far in a variety of conditions and feel like I’ve found it’s strengths and weaknesses and have reached a verdict. But before we get to that, let’s go over how to properly use this chain lube.

INITIAL APPLICATION

Like all wax-based lubes, Squirt works best when applied to a squeaky clean and dry chain.  This means you need to thoroughly clean your chain to strip it down to bare metal; if there’s anything else on the chain (especially oil-based lubes) Squirt will have a hard time sticking.

I used a citrus degreaser (diluted with water) and an old tooth brush to clean my chain.  It’s a pain, it’s messy, and takes some time, but it’s worth the effort.  You’ll only need to do this once, so do it right the first time!  For best results go ahead and clean your chainrings, cassette, and derailleur pulleys while you’re at it.

That’s the same chain, before and after a good cleaning.

Once the chain is clean and dry you’ll apply Squirt like any other lube: one drop on each pin/roller.  Spin the cranks for a little while so it can work it’s way deep into the rollers.  Do not wipe any excess off – it’ll come off on its own.  Let the lube dry, then apply one more coat, and again, don’t wipe away the excess.  Let it dry, then you’re ready to ride.

STRENGTHS

Squirt makes good on its self-cleaning claims.  My chain never got very dirty, whether riding in mud or on dry, dusty trails and my chain always looked cleaner than the rest of my bike.  This was really nice when I needed to work on my bike, like when I swapped my usual 18T cog out for a 22T for the 2nd Snake Creek Gap Time Trial.  When I swap the cog I also have to add a link to the chain, so I’m handling the chain a lot, yet my hands had zero black oil on them, a big improvement over the heavy duty wet lube I used previously.

Squirt does a really good job of keeping your chain nice and quiet.  Since it doesn’t attract dirt and grit like a wet lube I never got that annoying grinding noise from the drivetrain.  Even after going through muddy sections of trail, or creek crossings with sandy banks on either side it was always just smooth and quiet.

When you want to re-lube it’s best to clean the chain first, and with Squirt that’s a very simple job.  No messy and time consuming degreasing like with wet lubes.  Simply brush the chain off, and apply one coat of Squirt.  That’s it.  Takes about a minute and a half.

WEAKNESSES

As messy as my old lube was, it does last longer than Squirt, especially in the conditions I’ve been riding in lately.  On three separate occasions since switching to Squirt I’ve found myself pedaling through creeks over a foot deep.  The first time was at the Snake, and by the end of the ride my chain was really squeaky, even though I had put fresh lube on before the ride since I knew it would be a rough day on the bike.  Now, to be fair, that creek was very fast moving, and not only did it wash most of the Squirt away, but it also killed my Shimano XT bottom bracket.  Even the Wet Ride lube would have had a tough time there.

The longest I went before needing to re-lube was about 85 miles and the chain was just starting to make a little noise at that point.  That was mostly dry conditions, but did include the other two deep creek crossings.  The water in those creeks was much slower flowing than the creek at the Snake and it didn’t really wash the lube away.  I was impressed with how little it seemed to affect the drivetrain.  In totally dry conditions I think you could easily go 100+ miles before needing to reapply.

VERDICT

Squirt is my new lube of choice.  It works really well, doesn’t attract dirt, and is very quiet.  I can reapply whenever I need to without spending half an hour with a can of degreaser and a toothbrush and it makes working on the bike much more pleasant.  I wish it lasted longer before needing to reapply, but the re-lubing process is so simple and fast it’s not that big of a deal.

The singletracks.com repair forums are a great place for maintenance and tech info, but what if you could have a wealth of that type of info right in your hands? The Bicycling Guide To Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Todd Downs is a book that can give you just that.

Seriously, you could start a bike shop with all the information in this one publication! Both road and mountain bikes are covered, so those of you who own both will need just this one resource.

According to the author’s bio, Todd Downs has 21 years of experience as a bike mechanic and he has wrenched in various shops and on the race circuit, including the Tour de France. He felt driven to share the knowledge and tips he has picked up over those years, and this book is the result.

Many books of this type can lead to the reader getting lost in the sheer volume of information presented, but in this case the topical organization is excellent. Even though it includes everything from what a bicycle is and how it operates to bike tools to extremely technical breakdowns of specific components, the book is laid out in such a way that a complete beginner or a seasoned pro can quickly get right to the section needed for a particular task.

Preceding the table of contents are several pages with labeled pictures of common types of bikes and components. Study these pages and you can stop saying things like “the whats-it that’s connected to my whatchamacall-it thingy is broken.” At a glance you can see exactly what a headset or seat stay is, and have an instant visual of how a mountain bike is different from (and similar to), say, a time trial bike.

The main text begins with an overview of home repair. It discusses creating a work space, selecting the most commonly needed tools, performing preventative maintenance like adjustments and lubrication, keeping your body parts safe from injury while working, and, interestingly, how to box up a bike for shipping or travel.

Next the author discusses bicycle frames. He goes over the evolution of the bike frame into the various types and materials we have today, and educates the reader on how to properly maintain each frame type and inspect it for wear or damage. He also tackles the difficult topic of frame geometry, both in the general sense and in terms of bike fitting. I particularly enjoyed this section and as an example, I now have a technical understanding of why my Specialized Rockhopper handles so differently from my Giant Trance.

After frames, he moves into a discussion of suspension. He employs the same top-down approach as the previous sections, progressing from a big picture overview to painstakingly detailed methods. For the rest of the book, every component group is broken down in this same way. If you are a beginner, or are just curious, the introduction to each section is a great read and will give you a solid understanding of the history and purpose of the bicycle and its various parts. If you are mechanically inclined and want to start doing your own maintenance and light repairs, the next part of each section has the info you need. If you are determined to do all of your own work, or if you’re a shop or race team mechanic, the latter part of each section has detailed technical information with things like caliper measurements, torque numbers, exploded views, etc.

Again, this seems like a flood of information, and it is, but it is indexed so well that you can quickly flip to exactly what you need. Each section has excellent photographs of real bikes and components, with clear labels as needed. Most of the techniques described have accompanying graphics, frequently showing common errors along with the way things should look. There are also links to video tutorials at Bicycling.com for some of the more common repairs.

After spending some time with this book, I have no problem recommending that anyone with more than a passing interest in cycling grab a copy. It has a list price of $23.99, but I found it for around $15 at Barnes & Noble, Amazon and Buy.com. The very first adjustment or repair that you don’t have to go to the local bike shop for will more than cover the purchase price. That potential savings combined with all the interesting historical and summary information translates into an incredible value!

I would like to thank Rodale Press and Bicycling Magazine for sending a copy of this book for review.

At the suggestion of my local bike shop employees I’ve decided to try a new chain lube.  For the last year or so I’ve happily been using White Lightening’s Wet Ride lube.  It’s a very thick, heavy duty wet lube and in my experience a single application will last a couple hundred miles, in any kind of weather.  Rainy and muddy, dry and dusty, through axle deep creek crossing, you name it, White Lightening’s Wet Ride stays on the chain and keeps the drivetrain spinning smoothly and quietly.  I rarely need to re-lube my chain.

The problem is, Wet Ride is really messy.  Wet lubes can attract dirt which will accelerate wear on your drivetrain, and they make working on your drivetrain a dirty affair.  Also, when I do need to re-lube I have to first completely clean and degrease the chain before adding fresh lube. That’s the only way I’ve found to get rid of the gunk and grime that’s stuck to the chain.  It’s time consuming, messy, and I’d rather be riding!

Why Squirt?

Squirt Lube is a dry, self cleaning wax-based lube.  It goes on wet, then dries leaving behind a waxy substance that will lube moving parts, and then flake away when it gets dirty.  That last part is the reason I’ve stayed away from wax-based lubes in the past: they shed like a snake’s skin.  I like going on long, all-day rides, and I don’t want my lube to be all gone before I get home.  But supposedly Squirt lasts a long time before you need to re-lube your chain and the best part is, when you do need to re-lube, no de-greasing is required.  You can simply brush off the old wax, then put new wax on.  Here’s what the manufacturer has to say about their lube:

Squirt is a wax based, long lasting dry lube for the use on bicycle chains. This liquid lubricant has unique properties that make it ideal for use in any cycling condition. It had been developed to give better lubrication, last longer and keep the chain cleaner over extreme distances for both MTB and road cycling. No degreasing is required.

Due to Squirt’s composition, build-up due to dirt does not occur and no grinding paste will form. Continuous application can be done without having to clean the chain. Excess wax that gets expelled by the chain does not attract dirt, hardens slightly and falls off during riding. Cleaning with a dry brush is adequate. This lubricant also sticks to the chain longer and extends lubrication intervals.

How’s it going to stand up in the real world?  Will creek crossings wash it off?  Will it survive 6+hr rides?  Does it really stay clean?  These are the questions I’m going to answer.  In the next post on Squirt I’ll go over the initial application, how it’s withstood various conditions, and how often I’ve had to re-apply.

MSRP is about $12 at your local shop, or $10+shipping directly from Squirt.

Yep, it’s that time of year when folks are parking the bike and pulling out winter gear (that is unless you’re blessed with sun all year round – if so then I’m jealous). Luckily I have an indoor bike park nearby and can continue to ride, though clearly it’s not the same as churning dirt. Either way, all is not lost – this is the perfect time of year to take apart your ride and get busy fixing and tuning!

One piece of a equipment every mechanic should invest in is a quality torque wrench like the Topeak D-Torq DX. The shop-quality D-Torq is superior to most products I’ve used and truly makes your bike safer and easier to work on. For those who don’t know, I have a mechanical background in the aviation and automotive industries with an inter-provincial license plus I teach this stuff for a living. With that in mind, I have to say this is a great tool.

The D-Torq DX is a top quality tool intended to make torquing down fasteners a breeze. Older torque wrenches were either click or dial type wrenches that had to be set and monitored. These wrench types often slow down the work and in some cases they cause the user to get fed up and just go by feel which sorta defeats the purpose. Well, the folks at Topeak must have talked with shop workers to find out what they needed because they hit the nail on the head with the D-Torq DX.

Setting the torque value is quick and easy – just scroll up or down on the arrow buttons and you’re there. You don’t even have to look at the display when turning the wrench – a beep will alert you when you’ve reached your target.

One of the biggest hassles when dealing with torque values is the lack of standards (N-m, kg-cm, in-lb, and ft-lb). I’ve seen plenty of instances where manufacturers use different units for torque specs on the same instruction guide which forces me to keep a conversion chart handy. Since the D-Torq DX is digital it converts units on the fly with just a scroll of a button.

The D-Torq DX features a 3/8-inch square drive with everything you need to get to all the fasteners on your bike. It comes with all the popular socket and hex drives: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15mm sockets and 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10mm hex drive with adapter. You also get Torx T25, T30, and T40 for the increasingly popular Torx heads found on SRAM and Shimano components. A #2 phillips head is also included to complete the selection. Everything is arranged neatly in a convenient case.

Torque settings on the DX range from 4N-m to 80N-m which covers just about everything. If your bike is carbon or has carbon components this is the wrench for you; if you race this is the wrench for you; if you enjoy working on your own stuff – yep, this is the wrench for you too. I’ve been using my D-Torq DX on everything from brake calipers to disk bolts and from stem bolts to crank bolts.

Recently the D-Torq inspired me to make a checklist that to keep with all my bikes for the times I’m working on them or going to do some serious riding. The last thing I want is for something to fall off or break due to over- or under-tightening. I recommend creating a chart like the one below; you can even go a step further and laminate it and use non permanent markers to check off and re-check as needed. All the values can easily be found in your bike and component owners manuals. If you have a Specialized, for example, all the values you need can be found on their website. (If anyone is interested I can email you the chart in Word so you can change it up to match your bike.)

If I had to be picky (and I do), I’d like to see an on/off switch rather than the power timer featured on the D-Torq DX to extend the life of the battery. Every D-Torq DX ships with a certificate of calibration and includes all the sockets any bike mechanic should need. At $290 MSRP I feel like this is a fair price for the level of precision and protection you get. Just remember this is a calibrated, high precision tool – so don’t drop it!

Ever since Interbike I have been spending a ton of time assembling and rebuilding my bikes. To make the job go more smoothly (pun intended) I’ve been using Bike Line products from Motorex.

Bearing Lubrication

I recently assembled two new bikes (DH and trail) and repacked a few wheelsets and pedals and needed a decent grease that would provide excellent wear resistance while slowing water infiltration and damage. For this job, Motorex’s Bike Grease 2000 fit the bill perfectly. The photo above left shows fresh, clean Bike Grease 2000 in place after the bearing was cleaned. The photo on the right shows the bearing before being repacked. The funny thing is that the wheel was still working well but even with a sound design and good seals, water still can migrate into the bearings and begin to displace the grease. Bike Grease 2000 has a superior film strength to help prevent that from happening.

Chain, Pivot Points, and Bottom Bracket

For lubricating the small pivot points and of course the chain I used both the wet and dry lubes from Motorex. The lubes (both wet and dry) work very well. The dry lube takes a little time to set so it’s best to apply it well in advance of your ride. The wet lube stays on evenly in mud soaked situations without washing off right away, protecting the chain from dirt and grime invasion.

The photo below shows the spot where I like to add a bit of lubrication to prevent bad things from happening to the bottom bracket. The last thing you want is for the bearing cup to seize in your bike which could make a mess of the cups themselves and possibly kill your frame. An added measure of good, quality grease makes for easy installation and removal down the road.

Degreasing

Now this is truly cool: the Motorex Easy Clean degreaser uses the same carrying agents (Aliphatic Hydrocarbons) as the lubes themselves so they work hand in hand without killing paint or rubber seals. Unlike some other companies, Motorex manufactures all their products themselves and do not outsource to multiple vendors.

Bleeding Brakes & Frame Waxing

During a recent brake bleed I decided to go with the high performance DOT 5.1 (boils at 180°C / 355°F) from Motorex. I have to say the fluid flows exceedingly well through narrow brake lines and calipers. For general frame maintenance, Motorex offers a perfect spray and wipe wax called Bike Shine.

After using these products on multiple rigs I can that these are decent products. However, to get the best performance you really need to use both the lubes and degreaser from Motorex since they are designed to be paired together. Think of it as a high performance maintenance system rather than individual products.

Check out these and other fine products at Motorex’s website. I would also like to thank the folks at Motorex for providing these products for review.

On my week-long hut-to-hut mountain biking trip this summer I brought along a raft of extra parts: chain, derailleur, spokes, cables, and brake pads but to be honest I really didn’t know how I was gonna use some of that stuff. Fortunately one of the guys I rode with, Matt, had worked in a bike shop so he was my go-to guy with trailside repair questions. Unfortunately I don’t get to ride with smart guys like Matt all the time so I was stoked when I heard about the Bike Doctor iPhone app.

The app itself is pretty simple: repairs are grouped by category (brakes, wheel, crank, etc.) and can be filtered by bike type (mountain, road, or hybrid). Each repair is broken into steps so you can go at your own pace and the presentation is neat, readable, and easy to navigate. The first step lists the tools and supplies you’ll need to complete the task and the tutorials offer (mostly) helpful photos to go along with the instructions.

The app is completely self-contained so you don’t need an internet connection to use it which makes it a good choice for backcountry excursions (just bring extra batteries if you’ll be gone a long time!). There’s even a safety check section included, though it’s mostly common sense and mountain bikers may not find it all that useful. Beyond repair stuff the Bike Doctor app also includes maintenance tutorials on how to clean and lube your bike.

I like the idea of putting repair info into a mobile format so I can use it in my basement workshop without lugging the computer down or printing pages from a PDF that I’ll end up throwing away afterward. While the Bike Doctor app doesn’t cover everything yet (bleeding hydraulic disk brakes comes to mind), hopefully we’ll see the number of tutorials grow as the app is updated.

Bike Doctor is also available for Android phones – check out the Bike Doctor app website to find out more and to purchase your copy.

Alas, all good things come to an end. After two and a half years of serious bashing and pushing my Opus Maadh to its limits, the bike started showing signs of its final days. So before I got stuck, the good folks at Opus sent me the Maadh’s replacement: the Opus Clutch 1.

At this point you might be wondering how I knew the frame was nearing its end and how you might identify the same signs on your bike. Assuming that you haven’t smashed your bike up badly and haven’t bent the crap outta it, you may not see any visible signs but you can tell in other ways. On my frame, the early warning signs came via excessive noise from the suspension. The creaking noise was most noticeable when I was hammering on the pedals.

Taking the bike apart the first time there was no visible damage but I did notice uneven wear on pivot spacers and such (which is a good warning and may itself generate noise). I cleaned the pivots up, making sure that they were still parallel and within spec and I looked at the pivot bearings where I didn’t find any issues (I had exchanged a lower pivot that was worn away earlier this year).

I put the bike back together, re-torqued all the bolts, and took the bike back out for a ride. The bike seemed to get better and rode great once again for a little while but after a few more rides at Kelso, Hydrocut and Three Stages in Collingwood, the noise was even louder than before. Taking a closer look I finally saw the problem: fatigue cracks. Yup, it happens and this is why I’m writing this article, focusing on how to identify problems but most importantly, how to deal with warranty issues.

I recommend totally cleaning and inspecting your bike every so often (especially after a major crash) for cracking or any abnormal behavior. For example, one of my good friends and riding buddies was experiencing a nasty creak when the rear suspension on his Santa Cruz Blur LT went through its motions. The bike was also ghost shifting from time to time which was strange. Taking a closer look at home I found there were two cracked bearings in the lower pivot. The cracked bearing ran out of grease (making the noise) and the cracks allowed the rear triangle to shift around a bit and slightly twist (accounting for some of the ghost shifting). Well in his case all it took was a complete bearing and bushing kit (about $100) and he was good to go. Another good friend of mine had a Rocky Mountain Slayer that wanted to do its own thing while he pedaled away. Well that one had bushing issues (an item which, like the Blur issue, is considered wear and tear, not covered under warranty). About $20 dollars later and he was good to go.

My new Opus Clutch 1

The Clutch 1 frameset is the replacement for the Maadh in Opus’s line up for 2010 and 2011. With 150mm of rear travel using a floating pivot point arrangement, the frame is made from 7005-T6 triple-butted hydro-formed tubing, same as the old Maadh. But that’s where the similarities end. First, and most importantly, the Clutch seat tube is a smoother, less manipulated affair with fewer welds (where cracks can form). Along with the improved and cleaner looking seat tube, the rear triangle was reconfigured for even more tire clearance. If you put the two frames side by side you also notice that the down tube has been flared wider at the bottom bracket for an stiffer, more responsive pedal stroke. I also noticed that the folks at Opus did away with the unique “C’ style plastic clamp used to hold down the shifting / brake hose on the down tube. Now the frame uses regular tie wraps that can be easily sourced whenever needed.

So it’s kinda funny how things pan out. It was great heading to Interbike with a brand new frameset at home waiting to be tricked out with the latest components. Mad props to the guys at Opus for sending down the new frame so quickly and taking care of me.  Once the bike is built up and ready I will give you all the low down on the build and more importantly, a review on how it handles.

At this point in the MTB season you’ve been out dozens of times and may be experiencing “ghost shifting” or your shifting just isn’t what it used to be following a nasty crash. Now is a good time to check your gears.

Before we get started there are a few derailleur parts I’d like to illustrate and explain.

Limit Screws

There are three limit screws (shown above): the B-screw (B-tension adjustment) found on both Shimano and SRAM rear derailleurs, the H-screw (high gear limit stop), and the L-screw (low gear limit stop).

B-tension Adjustment

The B-screw controls the derailleur body’s angle in relation to the sprocket-set. Shift to the largest sprocket and check the distance between the guide pulley and the large sprocket. Adjust the B-screw until the pulley rubs the large sprocket, and then tighten the screw until it barely clears and the chain does not bind.

High Gear Limit Stop

The H-limit screw high gear limit stop prevents the guide pulley from shifting any further past the highest gear and into the axle. In order to adjust it properly there must be zero tension on the lower inner cable. If you feel tension, loosen the cable adjuster until there is none. Now check from behind to see how the chain is riding on the smallest sprocket. If it looks like it wants ride off into the axle, tighten the H-screw clockwise until it lines up. If it looks like it is rubbing on the next gear, loosen the screw until the chain is nicely centered on the sprocket. Now re-adjust the cable tension until the derailleur shifts smoothly down to the next gear.

Low Gear Limit Stop

The L-limit screw prevents the guide pulley from shifting any further past the lowest gear and into the wheel spokes. Shift down to the lowest gear, step behind the bike, and check how the chain rides on the sprocket. If it looks like it wants to ride into the spokes, tighten the L-screw clockwise until it is centered on the sprocket. If it looks like it wants to shift down, loosen the screw until it lines up. As an extra precaution you can use your thumb to gently push the derailleur body and make sure the chain will not run into the spokes, as this could obviously have a nasty effect on both you and your bike.

Now that we have the limit screws figured out, let’s start adjusting your gears. This article assumes you’re using a conventional derailleur where the default, no-tension state places the chain in high gear (smallest cog in the back).

NOTE: Stop here and read this first. Check your chain to make sure it isn’t bent. Look down the chainline as you back pedal and look for twisting. If anything looks wonky, replace the chain first.

NOTE 2: Check the cassette and chain rings to make sure the teeth are straight and none are missing or bent. Both these items will make smooth shifting impossible.

Replacing Cables and Housing

Starting from the top, shift all the way into high gear. From here, if you want to replace the cable (’tis the season), you would release the bolt that holds the cable at the rear derailleur and remove the old cable. After opening up your shifter pod, (SRAM X.0, x-9, x-7) it’s just a matter of loosening up the single screw on the pod, pulling the cable out, and inserting a new cable (replace cap). For Shimano shifters there is a plastic cover to remove (near the thumb shifter); pull out the old cable and insert the new one (replace plug).

Check out your cable housing and remove the housing caps to get a better look. If the ends look frayed it may be time to replace the cable housing as well. If you do decide to change the housing, use the existing pieces to match the lengths. Cutting shifter cable housing requires a proper cutter (not a side cutter as it squishes the housing and increases drag on the cable); try the Park CN-10 cutter. Using a proper cutter also ensures a nice clean, straight cut essential for proper shifting. Once the housing is all cut and installed with cable ends, feed the shifting cable through and down to your derailleur. Do not attach the cable at this point.

Alignment and Tensioning

Check out the alignment of your derailleur in two spatial planes. From behind the bike, first check to see if your derailleur hanger is straight. Next, look at the two jockey pulleys and the cassette body to make sure they all line up – there shouldn’t be an angle between them. If there is and it’s small, you can try to bend it back by hand. Looking top down at the derailleur, check out the pulley positions again, this time relative to the cassette body. They should be straight from this angle as well; if not, you may be able to tweak the derailleur hanger to get them in line.

After all the limits are set, let’s get the chain in place and install the shifting cable. Both Shimano and SRAM derailleurs have a small detent with mounting bolt where the cable goes. Before you tighten down the cable, double check that everything is routed properly and you have turned the adjuster screw all the way in and then out two turns (more on this later). Pull the cable and tighten it in. Turn the pedals and pay attention to the rear cassette as you go and shift up one gear. If the derailleur hesitates then you need to turn out the adjuster screw on the shifter pod (half turns) until it shifts. Shift down and back up again checking to see you get a clean shift. If you’re satisfied, try shifting up again; if the shift is jumping almost two gears at a time, you went to far. Check to see (viewed from behind) that in any given gear, everything is in line as you shift. The chain line on each gear should be dead on.

Once you have the derailleur shifting smoothly on the stand, get out there and test it out! Adjusting a rear derailleur takes patience but in the end it’s a great skill for any mountain biker to have.

At a fundamental level, all bicycle disc brakes operate the same way. Basically, the two pads are actuated by some mechanism that squeezes a rotor that is attached to the wheel.

Disc brake pads are usually made from powdered metal, plastic, and rubber. This composite combination of materials keeps the brake from locking up by allowing the pad to slowly burn away, keeping you safely behind the handlebars. Because the pad dissolves away, you will need to replace your brake pads every so often. Luckily, this is an easy operation.

First, you will need brake pads and the proper tools. For this quick change, you may need:

• 5 mm hex key – for the mounting screws (or 4mm, depending on your setup)
• razor knife – for opening those tricky packages
• small flathead screwdriver – for “encouragement”
• anti-seize compound – see explanation below

Using the appropriate 5mm (or 4mm) hex key, remove the brake.

Next, you will need to dial back to the calipers to their open-most position. For these Avid BB7s, both of the red knobs are turned counter-clockwise until they stop. Then, you need to squeeze the pads together and pull them out of the opening. Here, I am using the small screwdriver to “motivate” the pads out of the crevasse.

You may notice that these old pads still have some life in them. I decided to change these anyway because they had some rotor gouges and were really dirty. If you don’t want to change your pads, you can service them by grinding them down with fine grain sandpaper and cleaning them with rubbing alcohol before re-installation.

To install the new pads (or the old ones), simply reverse the removal process. Some brakes allow you to install the pads individually but the BB7 requires use of the “sandwich” method. Take the two new pads, sandwich them around the spring, and squeeze the pads together.

Keep a good hold on the sandwich, while minding the L and R indicators as marked on the pads; orient the brake receptacle properly. Then cram the brake pad sandwich in there and wriggle it around ’til it feels right. Each of the pads has an indentation for a nub on the calipers so you should be able to feel when the pads are nested properly. You can also test to see if the brake pads are seated properly by squeezing your brake levers a few times. If they’re in right they will not easily jiggle around or fall out.

Metals like aluminum, titanium, and magnesium are pretty reactive to the elements so I usually put a small bead of anti-seize on my mounting bolts to keep them from binding up or corroding over time. This is a good practice for almost all of your bolted components.

Now reattach your brake and get back out on the trail! Don’t forget to adjust and inspect your brakes before bombing down that next hill.

It’s that time of year when some of your bikes are coming outta hibernation and need a tune up. Even year-round bikes deserve a spring cleaning and a dependable bike repair stand like the Feedback Sports Pro-Elite (MSPR $240.00) makes getting started easy. The Pro-Elite repair stand is well thought out and includes everything you need and nothing you don’t. With an all aluminum construction and a tight fold down size, this is the perfect stand to use both at home in the garage and outdoors when you go for those epic rides or overnight events.

What sets the Pro-Elite apart from other bike repair stands is the super cool patented quick release clamp that allows you to mount your bike with one hand with nothing to wind down. Just squeeze the ratcheting clamp with your hand to lock it down; you can then adjust the pressure with the tri-knob. The best part of the ratchet is the button release which pushes the clamp apart and lets you get the bike out quickly without fumbling around.

Another really cool feature is the ability to set a bike at any angle and the clamp will hold the bike in place without slipping. That feature alone sold me on the stand since I do a lot of brake and fork service which requires me to hold the bike at specific angles during the process. To have the bike slip during those times is something I don’t want and I’m happy to say the Pro-Elite does not slip.

The construction of the stand is both sturdy and lightweight. All the important hardware and clamps are metal with good levers allowing you to clamp down tightly with minimal effort. There is enough height adjustability to allow you to work standing without having to bend over or even sitting on a stool. When fully open, the base of the stand measures 54″ across making it super stable even with a 50lb FR rig in the clamp elevated up to 71″ off the floor. With my 40lb bike clamped in there was very little sign of bending or sagging with the Pro-Elite, and rotating it around was still smooth without a hint of binding from the clamp. Feedback has a claimed weight limit of 85lb but unfortunately I wasn’t able to test that claim since I don’t have a bike nearly that heavy (maybe an electric bike might get close).

As you can see from the photo, the Pro-Elite utilizes a tripod design which means it’s stable on virtually any surface, flat or not (steer clear of any repair stand that isn’t a tripod). Set up your stand outside on the dirt and the Pro-Elite will be rock solid.

The red anodized finish on the tubing means no corrosion and worry-free maintenance on the stand itself. The hardware is a mix of stainless and black oxide finish that will match the corrosion resistance of the stand. There are also a few accessories you can purchase including the “Flop Stop” to hold your handlebar in place and a tool tray to hold your small tools and parts. The tool tray even features a coffee cup holder and a parts washer basin which sounds like a cool option for those who intend to use the stand mostly as a home unit.

The first step to getting serious about maintaining and repairing bikes yourself is to get a solid repair stand. The Feedback Sports Pro-Elite bike repair stand is a pro-level work stand that delivers maximum performance in a dependable, portable package. When you’re working on your bike, the last thing you want to worry about is fidgeting with your stand and the Pro-Elite doesn’t get in the way.

Specs from Feedback Sports

Frame: anodized red aluminum
Weight: 12.6 LBS . ( 5.7 KG)
Clamp height: 42″ – 71″ (1067 mm – 1803 mm)
Clamp opening accommodates tubes up to 2.6″ (66 mm)
Base diameter: 54″ (1372 mm)
Jaw width: 3.25″ (82.5 mm)
Folded size: 5″ X 8″ X 45″ (127 X 203 X 1161 MM)load capacity 85 lbs. (38.6 kg)
3-year warranty

I would like to thanks the folks at Feedback Sports for the chance to review the Pro-Elite repair stand.

So, you’re planning on purchasing or assembling your dream bike for the upcoming MTB season. What size should you choose? How long of a stem do you need? Should you get a setback seatpost? What’s the right bar width? I’ll try to answer all these questions and more in this article on mountain bike fitting.

Most bike shops do a good job helping customers find the right frame size and you can always double check by taking a peek at the bike manufacturer’s website or catalog. The size chart below is an example and as you can see there is a range for every frame size. Beyond height, this chart doesn’t take into account specific body measurements (torso size, leg length, etc.) and that’s where component fitting comes in.

So… it’s really up to you to get the perfect fit. Some bike shops offer fittings, usually at a cost nowadays (not including parts which is an additional cost). But looking at your body and sitting on the bike with someone holding you on, you can get a good idea of what fits or what feels best for you. But before you spend your cash, let’s cover the list of things we can change on the bike, what those changes will feel like, and what a retailer shop should be able to do to accommodate you when you purchase that shiny new bike.

Frame size: #1 most important item

Getting the right frame size is paramount. If you’re in between sizes and are planning on really riding rough, you may want the smaller size rather than the larger (easier to bail when things go wrong). Use a sizing chart to get an idea of where you fit, then check the actual bike. Hop on the bike and if possible, go for a test ride. You should also be able to get a sense of what’s going on with the fit just by sitting on the bike and pedaling backward.

At this point you should feel more or less comfortable: not up too high and stretched or too low and cramped. You should also be able to place your feet flat on the ground when you dismount the bike. Stand over height is a bit more difficult to gauge these days due to the newer, sloping top tube frames which give the illusion that the frame is smaller than it is. Instead, I focus my attention on the top tube length.

To find the right seat tube length, take your inseam (legs 6 inches apart) and multiply by .67 then subtract 4 inches. For example I have a 33 inch inseam. Multiplied by .67 I get 21.75 inches, take 4- 5 inches away I end up with a 17.5 inch frame set (which happens to be what I use).

MTB handlebar width

Sometimes due to your specific body type or riding style a wider than stock bar can be a good choice. As the bars widens, it allows more steering torque (great for nasty terrain) and slows your steering down. A bar change on its own will also pull you forward a bit. A wider bar also makes it easier to breathe as it encourages you to open your chest more when huffing up a hill. The good news is that most bike shops are willing to change to a wider bar if necessary. Once you have your bar width, work on shifter and brake positioning. Try to set both so your wrist is not bent in an awkward angle and there is a small degree of freedom there – about 15 degrees. Anything more than that and you are at risk of hurting yourself.

Stem length

Riders with disproportionate leg to torso sizes will want to take a look at changing up stem length for a more comfortable riding posture. A longer stem typically pulls the rider forward and flattens the back. The result is slowed steering and more traction to the front wheel.

Shortening the stem moves the rider toward the center of the bike and adds curvature to the back, leading to a more upright riding position. Ideally the rider should have elbows slightly bent when riding straight ahead which acts as a natural upper body shock absorber. Proper stem length and positioning alleviates upper body soreness and removes excessive force from the wrists. Most XC stems range in length from 70mm to 130mm. AM and DH stems can range from as short as 25mm to about 55mm+.

Seat post height and setback

Once you have the right frame size it’s time to set the seat post height and setback (for you folks who ride DH, FR, and DJ this does not apply). Starting with the seat parallel with the ground, set the cranks so that they are in line with your seat tube, projecting a straight line through the BB and to the floor. Hop on the bike and have someone support you while you position your feet on the pedals – ball of the foot on the axle and foot slightly pointing forward a couple degrees. You should not have your leg fully extended – there should be about 10-15 degrees of movement before your leg locks straight.

You can also use this formula as a decent starting point: Take your inseam measurement and multiply by .883. The result is the ballpark measurement from the top of the lower pedal to the top of the saddle. From here you may need to go up or down a quarter of an inch until it looks and feels right.

With the basic seat height position set, it’s time to check positioning front to back. With the cranks set at 3 and 9 o’clock, get a piece of string and tie a weight to it. Sit on the bike in your riding position and pedal backwards a few strokes and stop at 3 and 9 o’clock again (you’ll need a spotter to help). Hang the weighted string from the bony protrusion just below your knee cap and have a look at where the string intersects your crank – it should fall right at the pedal axle. If the string falls forward or behind, just slide the seat on the post to fix your positioning.

If you can’t adjust the seat far enough you may need to change your seatpost offset. There are seatpost offset options you can purchase from zero offsets all the way to 25mm offsets (see images below).

Handlebar height

You may find that your handlebars are too low or high. By adjusting bar height you’re trying to achieve:

• A comfortable back angle, depending on your degree of flexibility.
• A natural feel to look ahead without craning your neck.

There are a few solutions here. Firstly take a look at where your stem meets your steering tube. You may see a few spacers – if so great! You can adjust the shim stack position relative to the frame which will raise or lower the stem and bar. For example, placing all the shims below the stem will raise your bar up by that amount. If you don’t have shims, you may need to get either a riser bar or a riser stem. Easton sells the EA50 stem with either 6 or  20 degrees of rise. You can also choose from flat bars, mid rise bars (about 20mm), or full rise bars (from 35mm to 45mm depending on the model).

Crank arm length

You may want to consider changing up your crank arm length as well. Most manufacturers offer MTB cranks from 165mm to 180mm, usually in 5mm increments. The proper crank arm length is typically dependent on the rider’s height and inseam. So a short person (5′ – 5′.5″) may want to consider 165- 170mm cranks. For someone from 5′.5″ – 5′ 10″, a 175mm usually works well and taller folks may want to consider 175mm+ cranks. Now if you have short legs, a shorter crank arm may be a better choice. Or if you’re a quick peddler, a shorter crank arm may be the way to go as well.

COMFORT ZONES

This next section will help you consider a few items that can give you that “at one” feeling with your bike. There are really just 3 spots where body meets machine: handlebar grips, saddle, and pedals.

Handlebar grips

Before we talk about bar grips you should understand the two basic classes of grips. There are the lock-on types that are gaining popularity and the conventional style that holds onto the bar with friction. The difference? About $15.00. Seriously though, the new locking grips do work a bit better because they don’t slip and are easily removed and installed using an allen key to tighten.

Saying all that, there many MTB grip choices on the market today. When choosing consider a few things: What is your riding style? Are you an epic kinda person who will spend hours on the bike or are you a DH / FR type who needs maximum grip?

Pedal and cleat positions

Setting up your cleats is probably (in my opinion) the second most important fitting task. After all, the wrong positioning will increase strain in the knee and results in a less-than-ideal pedal stroke. Ideally you want the cleat set up so that if you draw a line from the center of the pedal axle up it will intersect with the widest part of your foot (where you apply the most force).

Use a mirror to take a look at the front of your feet and make sure they run parallel with your crank arms. This position will ease the load on your knee and ensures your feet will release from the pedals. One final note: many pedals feature adjustable tension and it’s often a good idea to start with the lightest tension where your feet barely wiggle (float). What you don’t want is a super solid feel to the pedal-shoe interface that hinders your foot’s natural tendency to twist on the back stroke.

Saddle

Selecting the right MTB saddle depends on a few things. For one, consider the type of riding you’ll be doing: racing, long epic rides, DH, etc. Do you need extra padding because your current saddle is killing you?

Aside from padding and support, take a look at saddle width. In short, your pelvic bone should match up to the widest part of the saddle. So if a saddle feels good, it’s probably the proper size for you.

This is by no means a definitive article on bike fitting but it’s based on years of personal experience fitting myself and others on their bikes. If you have question feel free to ask and I can clarify further as there are many more variables that can change a measurement or two in relationship to what was mentioned in this article.

A quick thanks to the good folks at OPUS for the sizing chart.

Cheers!