Have you been watching the Tour de France? Are you seeing what those spandex-clad fellas are getting themselves into? Dozens of hungry looking guys with really bad tan lines tossing themselves onto the asphalt at 50 mph with naught but some stretchy fabric and garishly-colored styrofoam beanies to keep their insides inside. They accept the risks of pursuing their passion as we do. The main difference is that when we hit the trails (and sometimes when we hit the trails) we’re on our own. No support car, no camera crew, no guy dressed up like a devil capering on the sidelines.

So there you are: out on the dirt with a ration of hurt. It could be you or your bike, but as we all know when things heat up and the trails get rough, all sorts of carnage can occur. An errant stick kicks up into your spokes and you’ve suddenly got a very expensive single speed. You went into that turn a little too hot, lost grip on the front wheel, and performed a spontaneous verification of gravitational consistency (you fell your ass down). All the myriad things that can happen when you’re way out in the wilderness should get you thinking about a plan for getting yourself back out with a minimum of drama. So like the Boy Scouts say: “Be Prepared.”

PART 1: Fix the bike

Much of the following depends on  your specific bike, so the more you know about how to work on your rig and the various parts, the better. I’ll simply list the tools, spares, and doodads I carry when I’m out on my 26″ hardtail.

A. 2 spare 26″ inner tubes (I never hesitate to carry this extra weight, since I’ve had more than one ride where I got two flats). If you’ve got tubeless I’d still recommend carrying a tube since, you know, sharp things are everywhere.

B. Patch kit. In addition to the two tubes I always carry a patch kit. The old school kind with glue, sandpaper and patches. Remember: if you don’t know how to use the patches they’re pretty useless on the side of the trail. Ask Sheldon Brown about it, you’ll get more info than you ever knew existed about tires, tubes, and wacky beards. If you’ve never heard of Sheldon Brown, well, shame on you.

C. Multi-tool. My latest favorite is a Topeak Hexus for a few reasons: it has a Torx head for disc rotor bolts, it has a chain breaker, since getting rad sometimes gets chains busted, and it also has a little curve of wire attached to the chain tool that blew my mind. The wire holds the two ends of a broken chain together so you can use the chain tool to rejoin the ends. Huzzah!

D. Tire levers. The Topeak Hexus is doubly sweet since it incorporates tire levers into the body of the tool.

E. Zip ties. Or if you’re from north of the border, Zap straps. That one always cracks me up, eh?

F. Master link. Chainpocalypse? No problemo, just use your chain tool to pop out the bad link and click it back together with this handy little fella. Remember to get the corresponding speed correct; 9 speed link for a 9 speed chain, 10 speed link if you’re one of those fancy rich dudes.

G. 2 hex bolts for clipless pedal cleats if you ride them. Seriously, you’ll never need these until you don’t have them. And they’re so small, just throw them in a dime bag tiny zip lock baggy for a rainy day.

H. Tire pump. There are tons on the market, find one you like and always have it. But remember this: no mini pump was designed for heavy use so don’t use it as your primary pump every time you’re heading out for a ride. I think it was BikeSnob who said that owning a quality floor pump is one of the things that separates actual cyclists from people who occasionally ride bikes. I concur.

The author’s best side. Photo credit to Brian McKinney

Part 2: Fix your broke ass

A. Bring plenty of water. A simple rinsing of the affected area is a great start to the healing process. Plus you’ll be hydrated and ready to get to the trailhead (or landing zone for the Medivac).

B. A clear head. One of the most valuable things I learned in survival training (yes, I actually did this) was “If you need to panic, get it out of the way, then get down to business.” Take stock of the situation and make the right decisions, don’t just spaz out because you’ve got a little boo boo.

C. Ride with a buddy. The probability of you and your bro breaking yourselves at the same time is menudo. He or she will be the one to ride out for help if your ride goes seriously pear shaped. Reward them with beer once you get out of the ICU. And not Bud either, the good stuff.

D. You’ll notice I’m not recommending you ride prepared with gauze, band-aids, antibacterial ointment and an air cast. Let’s face it; grams are important to those who want to tear it up. More important than a first aid kit in your Camelback, all you really need is common sense. Don’t get in over your head – let someone know where you’re riding and for how long, bring a friend, and don’t get (too) stupid.

None of these silly points of advice replace a sound mind and good judgement. It’s simply a mildly entertaining blog post with a few goofy internet pictures and some half baked ideas from a guy who barely avoids getting run down in traffic. Good luck out there and remember: chicks dig scars but you’ve got to stay alive to reap the benefits of their attention.

A good bike work stand makes cleaning, maintaining, and repairing your bike exponentially easier. Commercial models start at about $150 and a really good one can be as much as $275. But what if you could build a decent stand for a fraction of that? I decided to see if it could be done, and I am pleased to report that I now have a functioning work stand that cost me $60 in materials and 2 hours to build.

Here is everything you will need to do the same.

Tools

Electric or cordless drill
Drill bits: 1/4″ 3/16″ 1/8″ and a 7/8″ spade bit
Hand saw or Skil saw
7/16″ wrench and 7/16″ socket with ratchet (or nut driver)
Phillips screwdriver
Tape measure
Pencil
Sharpie pen
Gloves
Safety glasses

Parts

One 3/4″ Pony pipe clamp
One 3/4″ x 18″: pipe (threaded ends)
One 3/4″ x  60″ pipe (threaded ends)
One 3/4″ 90° elbow
One 3/4″ floor mount flange
One 24″ x 24″ x 3/4″ plywood square
Four 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ hex bolts
Four 1/4″ hex nuts
Four 1/4″ lock washers
Eight 1/4″ flat washers
Four #10 by 3/4″ sheet metal or wood screws (flat head)
Two wooden blocks, approximately 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ thick (cut from a 2×4)

Supplies

Two pieces of scrap foam or other padding material
Gorilla tape (1″ wide)
One refreshing beverage per hour of labor

Assembly Instructions

Step 1 – Position the flange near a corner of the plywood square, one inch from each edge. With a pencil, mark the four holes.

Step 2 – With the 1/4″ bit, drill two of the holes for the flange. Temporarily insert two of the bolts and the flange. This will allow you to accurately drill the other two holes.

Step 3 – Assemble the pipes and fittings. Join the short and long pipes with the elbow and attach the flange to the other end of the long pipe. Get them as tight as possible by hand.

Step 4 – Use the 7/8″ spade bit to countersink the underside of the holes you drilled in step 2. The countersink depth will need to be about 1/4″ and you can use the Sharpie to mark the depth right on the bit. When you have drilled all four, check them with a bolt and flat washer. If the bolt head protrudes at all, drill it a little deeper.

Step 5 – Install the four 1/4″ bolts with four of the flat washers up through the countersunk side of the holes. Carefully place the base on the floor so that the bolts don’t fall out and install the pipe assembly onto the top, over the protruding bolts. Install the hex nuts finger-tight and then use the leverage of the cross pipe and the anchor of the bolts to tighten the elbow and flange joints. Remove the hex nuts and reposition the pipe assembly as needed in order to have the cross pipe pointing at the opposite corner of the plywood. When it is tight and straight, install the remaining four flat washers, the four lock washers, and then the four hex nuts on the protruding bolts and over the flange. Use the wrench and socket to tighten them.

Step 6 – Install the Pony clamp according to the instructions on the package. The clutch piece slides on first and then the crank piece screws onto the threaded end of the pipe. There is a spring that can thread onto the pipe, but it isn’t necessary. Tighten it as much as you can, ending with the clamp jaws on the right side of the cross pipe when facing it head on. The cross pipe will probably tighten a little more during this step.

Step 7 – Adjust the clutch half of the clamp as needed so that the full reach of the clamp can be utilized. When it is adjusted properly, place the wooden blocks into the clamp jaws and tighten the clamp just enough to prevent them from falling out. Then use the 3/16″ bit to drill two holes through each half of the clamp and slightly into the block. Once through the metal, use the 1/8″ bit to drill a little deeper as a pilot hole for the #10 screws. Screw in all four of the #10 screws to hold the wooden blocks in place.

Step 8 – Trim the padding to roughly cover the face of each block and secure it with the Gorilla tape.

Step 9 – Clamp your bike in place by the seatpost and consume the remainder of your beverage while admiring your handiwork.

Enhancements

The stand will work okay as it is, but it’s not a bad idea to cut a vertical v-notch or circular impression into the face of each of the wooden blocks. This will help keep the seatpost from tilting while also not needing the clamp as tight. A v-notch can be cut with a miter saw, or a hole saw can be used to make a seatpost-sized vertical hole. Either way, you should still cover it with padding and Gorilla tape as described above.

Cut the bottom from a sturdy plastic jug and use a hose clamp to attach it to the vertical pipe for use as a small parts tray.

Observations

Everything I needed for this project was available at my local Home Depot for $59.85 with tax. I already had the foam, Gorilla tape and some wooden blocks, so figure a few dollars more if you need to purchase those. My materials list, with Home Depot stock numbers, is available here.

My bike weighs 27 lbs and it sits securely on the stand, but if I was planning to use it with a heavier bike, I would go with a 1″ vertical pipe and a 1″ to 3/4″ reducer elbow.

I used galvanized pipes and fittings, but black steel pipe will work just as well and is usually a few bucks cheaper.

I am very pleased with the outcome of my $60 investment and 2 hours of work. The stand is solid, the right height for working, and it’s light enough to move around easily. The one glaring disadvantage when compared to a commercial work stand like those from Park Tools is that you can’t rotate the bike around the axis of the support arm, but in light of the $200 I saved, I can live with that.

So get over to your local builders supply store, put your new stand together, and stop flipping your bike upside down on the ground to work on it!

A little while ago I posted an article on Tubeless MTB tires.  In it, I briefly mentioned a DIY method for going tubeless:  the ‘ghetto’ method.  As it turns out, there are two different ghetto methods people seem to be using.  One involves using a tube as a rim strip, the other involves using Gorilla tape instead.  The Gorilla tape method is much lighter, and seems like it would be much easier, so I decided to give it ago on the WTB LaserDisc Trail 29er wheels I have on test (full review coming soon!).  I used a Specialized 2Bliss ready tire, thinking the tubeless-ready bead would be better suited to this possibly risky set up.  I’ve got over 100 miles of hard riding and racing on the conversion and have had zero issues so far, so I thought it was time to put together a how-to for those interested in trying it themselves.

Disclaimer:  It Might Not Work!

One word of caution – depending on your rim and tire combination this may not work for you, and could be dangerous.  I HIGHLY recommend you use a tubeless-ready tire and try the conversion on the rear wheel first, and ride it for a while before converting the front wheel.  If the tire comes off the rear wheel while you’re riding there’s a good chance you’ll be able to ride it out and not crash.  If it comes off the front wheel however, you’re probably about to eat a dirt sandwich.  TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!  I also recommend doing some research online to see if others have had success with your particular rim.

What You Need

-Rubbing Alcohol
-Clean rag or paper towel
-Gorilla Tape – I found a 1″ wide ’Handy Roll’ that was the perfect width for my rims.  Do NOT use regular duct tape, it isn’t strong enough
-Old tube or tubeless valve stems
-Scissors
-Knife
-Tubeless tire sealant
-You may also need some soapy water and either a spray bottle or rag

Step 1 – Rim Prep

The tape will stick best to a clean rim.

-Remove the tire and tube currently on the rim
-Remove the factory rim strip
-Clean the inside of the rim using the rubbing alcohol and rag/paper towel
-Let dry

Step 2 – Valve Stem Prep (not needed if using tubeless valve stems)

I used presta valves cut out of a tube.

-Take the old tube and cut the valve stem out using scissors.
-Leave enough rubber at the base so the valve won’t pull through the rim, but not so much it interferes with the tire’s bead.
-Test install – it should sit completely down in the rim’s center channel.

Step 3 – Tape it Up

The tape should be pressed firmly all the way around the rim, with no air bubbles.

-You’ll need to tear the Gorilla tape to a certain width, slightly wider than the rim.
-It should be wide enough that when you put it on the rim it reaches into each bead hook, but not up the sides/top of the bead hook.  For my LaserDisc rims the 1″ wide roll of tape was perfect.
-Put the tape in the rim all the way around, with about 6″ of overlap, 3″ on either side of the valve hole
-When installing the tape be sure to stretch it tight, and make sure it goes on straight.  Press it down into the center channel, and run a tire lever around the bead hook, pressing the tape down firmly.
-Use the knife to make an ‘X’ cut over the valve hole so you can install the valve.
-Optional:  You may want/need to install a tire/tube and let it sit overnight, this will put pressure on the tape and make sure it stays in place and adheres in the center channel.

Step 4 – Tire Mount and Test

The valve should sit inside the center channel, not up in the bead hook where it will interfere with the tire.

-Install the valve in the rim.
-Mount the tire onto the rim – do not add any sealant yet.
-See if you can get the tire inflated.  You may need to use the soapy water to lubricate the bead so it can slide into place.  I was able to get mine inflated with a floor pump, but did need a bit of soapy water.  In some cases you may need an air compressor.
-DO NOT INFLATE TO MORE THAN 40PSI – the tire could blow clean off the rim.  This could damage the tire bead, and will likely leave your ears ringing for a while.

If you can’t get the tire to inflate at all (or if it won’t hold air very long even though it does inflate) you’re probably done – it doesn’t look like this will work with your tire/rim combo.  Head to the LBS and pick up a Stans Conversion Kit.

Step 5 – Seal it up

Stans – the magic goo that makes tubeless possible.

-Let the air out of the tire.
-Unhook one bead enough so you can add the recommended amount of sealant.
-Re-inflate the tire.  Use more soapy water if you need to.
-Follow the shake procedures used any time you mount a tubeless tire.  Don’t know what that means?  Check out this video on the No Tubes site, skip ahead to 7:55 to see the shake procedure.  This will splash sealant up onto the bead and tire sidewall, and the sealant will seal any leaks, leaving you with an air-tight set up.

Go Ride!

Take it easy at first, keeping your speed low just in case this isn’t a safe set up with your rim/tire.  Put some side load into the tire (lean the bike WAY over beneath you, lock up the rear wheel and skid sideways, etc.) to see if the bead will unseat.  If not, you’re good to go!  Enjoy your cheap and light tubeless set up.

Cleaning your bike after a ride can feel like a buzz kill but it doesn’t have to take forever. Follow these tips and you’ll get the job done quickly without damaging your bike.

1. Get your mountain bike dirty

One of the reasons people end up doing more damage than good while washing their mountain bike is because they wash it too frequently. Just because there is a little speckling of dirt on the down tube does not mean you need to bust out the scrub brushes… it’s a mountain bike people. But if your bike is truly dirty, give it a bath.

2. Find a place to wash it

For many people who own homes, this is easy: just haul out the garden hose and get washing. But for those of us who live in an apartment or who live the nomadic mountain biking dream, finding a hose isn’t always so easy.

Nowadays, many of the popular purpose-built mountain biking trail systems have a bike wash stand right at the trailhead: this is perfect! If your favorite trail doesn’t have a wash stand I suggest heading on over to your local bike shop. Most shops are more than happy to let you wash your bike for free. (If they aren’t, it might be time to find a new LBS.)

3. Find some brushes and rinse

Purchasing a brush set is relatively inexpensive, and if you are already heading to the LBS to wash your bike, why not buy one while you’re there.

Use the hose to rinse the mud off of your bike as best you can. In order to avoid ruining your rig, don’t spray high pressure water into areas that have bearings. The water can work its way in and wash the grease out.

You will notice 2 things in the photo below:

a) I am standing back away from the bike so the pressure isn’t too great.

b) This is just a normal hose, not a high pressure system (as compared to say the coin-operated car wash).

As I move in closer toward the bike and focus on the components, I reduce the pressure even more to turn the spray into more of a mist.

4. Scrub

Bust out those brushes pictured above and scrub your bike down. I recommend the big brush for the frame, the medium-sized brush with hard bristles for hard-to-reach places, and the small brush for components, especially the chain and cassette.

You can choose to use soap if you would like, as it will definitely help with greasy, hard to clean areas. However, if I’m aiming for a quick wash in under 15 minutes, I’ll skip the soap and just scrub and use water. It still works pretty well.

Make sure to get all of the hard-to-reach areas.

5. Clean the chain

Having a clean frame is nice, but where it really counts is with your drivetrain and other moving parts. Take special care to clean the chain well.

6. Clean the cassette and other components

Be sure to get all of the grime out of the cassette, and clean the chain rings and derailleurs carefully as well.

7. Skip the tires

Part of our goal is to get the bike clean in the shortest amount of time possible. Toward that end, skip scrubbing the tires. I will usually spray them down with the hose to knock the muck off, but I won’t bother scrubbing and detailing them. Really, what would be the point? The tires are the first thing to get dirty again, and having a little red stain from the local clay is not going to affect performance at all.

Focus on more important parts like the drivetrain.

8. Dry

Take care to dry your mountain bike off. If I’m going quickly, I usually focus on the chain, components, and other moving parts, and I bump my bike side-to-side in an effort to knock the water out of the heads of the bolts so that they don’t rust.

9. Lube

Immediately after you think your bike is adequately dry, do a full lube-job. Make sure to lube the chain well, in addition to all of the other moving parts such as your derailleurs. Be sure to wipe away the excess lube after it has had a few minutes to soak in.

10. Get your mountain bike dirty

Mountain bikes aren’t meant to be looked at or ridden on the pavement–they are supposed to be lovingly abused on a dirty singletrack trail! Go ride, get dirty, and go back to step #2!

Following this method, washing my bike usually takes under 15 minutes, with the lube job taking an additional 5 or so. This is fast, simple, and crucial to keeping your bike in good operating condition.

How do you go about washing your bike?

We get a lot of questions about tubeless mountain bike tires here on Singletracks, so I thought it was time to put together a tubeless guide.  I’m not going to get into specific brands and components, but instead give you an overview of the various systems and point you in the right direction so you can choose what works best for your budget and riding style.

WHY TUBELESS?

This is the big question: why go tubeless?  There are several advantages to losing tubes.  I’ll cover the general theory here, but there is a lot more detailed information out there on the web if you search for it.

Lower tire pressure: Without a tube you can run lower tire pressures without worry of pinch flatting since there’s no tube to pinch.  The lower pressures will allow the tire to more easily conform to the ground, providing a more comfortable ride and more traction, as well as lower rolling resistance.

Less rolling resistance: This could be an entire post all by itself, so I’ll try to keep it quick and simple. Rolling resistance is caused by the interaction of the tire and the ground.  The first thing you need to get out of your head is the old school roadie theory of high tire pressure equaling lower rolling resistance.  We’re not using skinny smooth tires on a smooth hard surface.  We’re using fat knobby tires on an uneven, bumpy, sometimes soft and loose surface where the physics are different.  When you hit a bump the wheel either moves up and/or the tire deflects around/over the bump.  This deflection requires energy, and that energy is robbed from your forward momentum, slowing you down.  So the less energy it takes to deform the tire, and the less forward momentum becomes upward momentum, the less forward energy you lose.  Using lower tire pressure is the easiest way to allow the tire to deform over irregularities in the trail instead of forcing the wheel upward.

When using tubes there is also friction between the tube and tire, and this friction has to be overcome to allow the tire to deform.  By getting rid of the tube you get rid of that friction, and reduce the energy needed to deform the tire.   For more reading on the science of rolling resistance check out this page which provides a summary of an article in a German mountain bike magazine.

Fewer flat tires: Without a tube you no longer have to worry about pinch flats since there’s no tube to pinch.  In very rare cases you can pinch the tire – but I only know one person who has ever done this.  Also since you’ll be using a sealant, any punctures will get sealed up without you even knowing it ever happened.  If you do get a puncture the sealant can’t seal, simply install a tube like normal and continue the ride.

Improved ride feel: By getting rid of tubes you get a much better feel for what your tires are doing.  The ride gets smoother, faster, easier; you have to feel it yourself to really understand.  The tires even sound different!

Less weight: Weight loss is not the main advantage of tubeless, it’s just an extra perk.  You may not even lose any weight, depending on which tubeless system you use.

Disadvantages: Installing tires without tubes can be a pain, and sometimes requires an air compressor.  So if you like to change tires often, tubes are certainly easier.

Where the rubber meets the dirt.  Ditch the tubes, and improve the interaction.

HOW TO DO IT

There are three ways to go tubeless.  You can convert non-tubeless wheels, use a tubeless-ready system, or use a UST system.  Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Conversion Kits: Stan Koziatek developed the first reliable and commercially available tubeless conversion kit back in 2000 when he formed NoTubes, and his kits are still the benchmark that all others are measured against.  The kit helps you convert nearly any rim and tire to tubeless and retails for around $60-$70, making this the cheapest way to try tubeless since you don’t need to buy new wheels or tires.

Downsides: Kits will not give you the lightest set-up and getting the tire bead seated and holding air usually cannot be done with a floor pump – for that you’ll need an air compressor.

Some rims convert more easily than others, as do some tires.  Research before you buy!  Some riders have experimented with “ghetto tubeless” set ups, where they fashion their own rim strip of out a 20″ tube.  Some have success with this method, but I can’t recommend it personally.

UST – Universal System for Tubeless: UST was developed by Mavic in the late 90′s.  It is a tubeless standard, meaning the rim and tire bead shapes are manufactured to very specific specs with tight tolerances and for any product to bear the UST label it must go through inspection and testing to be approved.  This means any UST rim is guaranteed to work with any UST tire, but tire selection isn’t great (especially for 29ers) and the tires are usually more expensive because of the approval process.  Non-UST tires do not generally play well with UST rims.

UST also has the tightest fitting beads, which makes installation a pain but allows for an extremely secure bead hook which is great for truly aggressive riding (think DH racing).  UST tires have an extra layer of air-tight rubber in the casing so they don’t require sealant like the other two systems, but this adds weight and makes the tires stiffer.  Most riders will use sealant anyways for puncture protection.  I have heard sometimes you can get the tires installed using a floor pump, but sometimes an air compressor is needed.  Pretty much every rim and tire manufacturer has UST products.

Tubeless Ready: Tubeless ready is the way of the future I think.  Tubeless ready rims basically allow you to use any tire – without tubes.  There are tubeless-ready tires as well, with tighter fitting and stronger beads.  Unlike UST, tubeless-ready set ups require sealant to make the tires air tight, and the bead shapes vary from one manufacturer to another – so some tires and rims work better together than others.  Tubeless-ready tires are often easier to set up than regular tires, usually with a floor pump.

Tubeless-ready systems are generally the lightest option since many do not require the thick rubber rim strip like conversion kits (some use a rubber strip, others use lightweight tape instead) and the tires do not have the extra air-tight layer of rubber like UST.  Without that extra air-tight layer in the casing, tubeless-ready tires are more supple than UST tires.  Specialized, Bontrager, Geax, Hutchinson, NoTubes, and WTB all make tubeless-ready mountain bike tires.  More and more manufacturers are introducing tubeless-ready tires, with Schwalbe being the latest, and Kenda promising some in the near future.  But again, most standard tires can be set up tubeless on tubeless ready rims, so there are tons of tire options to choose from.

YOUR EXPERIENCES

Tell us about your tubeless experiences in the comments below!  What systems have you tried, what worked well, what didn’t work well, etc.

In my first post on Squirt lube, I told you about the main claims it makes: self cleaning and long lasting.  I’ve put over 250 miles on it so far in a variety of conditions and feel like I’ve found it’s strengths and weaknesses and have reached a verdict. But before we get to that, let’s go over how to properly use this chain lube.

INITIAL APPLICATION

Like all wax-based lubes, Squirt works best when applied to a squeaky clean and dry chain.  This means you need to thoroughly clean your chain to strip it down to bare metal; if there’s anything else on the chain (especially oil-based lubes) Squirt will have a hard time sticking.

I used a citrus degreaser (diluted with water) and an old tooth brush to clean my chain.  It’s a pain, it’s messy, and takes some time, but it’s worth the effort.  You’ll only need to do this once, so do it right the first time!  For best results go ahead and clean your chainrings, cassette, and derailleur pulleys while you’re at it.

That’s the same chain, before and after a good cleaning.

Once the chain is clean and dry you’ll apply Squirt like any other lube: one drop on each pin/roller.  Spin the cranks for a little while so it can work it’s way deep into the rollers.  Do not wipe any excess off – it’ll come off on its own.  Let the lube dry, then apply one more coat, and again, don’t wipe away the excess.  Let it dry, then you’re ready to ride.

STRENGTHS

Squirt makes good on its self-cleaning claims.  My chain never got very dirty, whether riding in mud or on dry, dusty trails and my chain always looked cleaner than the rest of my bike.  This was really nice when I needed to work on my bike, like when I swapped my usual 18T cog out for a 22T for the 2nd Snake Creek Gap Time Trial.  When I swap the cog I also have to add a link to the chain, so I’m handling the chain a lot, yet my hands had zero black oil on them, a big improvement over the heavy duty wet lube I used previously.

Squirt does a really good job of keeping your chain nice and quiet.  Since it doesn’t attract dirt and grit like a wet lube I never got that annoying grinding noise from the drivetrain.  Even after going through muddy sections of trail, or creek crossings with sandy banks on either side it was always just smooth and quiet.

When you want to re-lube it’s best to clean the chain first, and with Squirt that’s a very simple job.  No messy and time consuming degreasing like with wet lubes.  Simply brush the chain off, and apply one coat of Squirt.  That’s it.  Takes about a minute and a half.

WEAKNESSES

As messy as my old lube was, it does last longer than Squirt, especially in the conditions I’ve been riding in lately.  On three separate occasions since switching to Squirt I’ve found myself pedaling through creeks over a foot deep.  The first time was at the Snake, and by the end of the ride my chain was really squeaky, even though I had put fresh lube on before the ride since I knew it would be a rough day on the bike.  Now, to be fair, that creek was very fast moving, and not only did it wash most of the Squirt away, but it also killed my Shimano XT bottom bracket.  Even the Wet Ride lube would have had a tough time there.

The longest I went before needing to re-lube was about 85 miles and the chain was just starting to make a little noise at that point.  That was mostly dry conditions, but did include the other two deep creek crossings.  The water in those creeks was much slower flowing than the creek at the Snake and it didn’t really wash the lube away.  I was impressed with how little it seemed to affect the drivetrain.  In totally dry conditions I think you could easily go 100+ miles before needing to reapply.

VERDICT

Squirt is my new lube of choice.  It works really well, doesn’t attract dirt, and is very quiet.  I can reapply whenever I need to without spending half an hour with a can of degreaser and a toothbrush and it makes working on the bike much more pleasant.  I wish it lasted longer before needing to reapply, but the re-lubing process is so simple and fast it’s not that big of a deal.

The singletracks.com repair forums are a great place for maintenance and tech info, but what if you could have a wealth of that type of info right in your hands? The Bicycling Guide To Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Todd Downs is a book that can give you just that.

Seriously, you could start a bike shop with all the information in this one publication! Both road and mountain bikes are covered, so those of you who own both will need just this one resource.

According to the author’s bio, Todd Downs has 21 years of experience as a bike mechanic and he has wrenched in various shops and on the race circuit, including the Tour de France. He felt driven to share the knowledge and tips he has picked up over those years, and this book is the result.

Many books of this type can lead to the reader getting lost in the sheer volume of information presented, but in this case the topical organization is excellent. Even though it includes everything from what a bicycle is and how it operates to bike tools to extremely technical breakdowns of specific components, the book is laid out in such a way that a complete beginner or a seasoned pro can quickly get right to the section needed for a particular task.

Preceding the table of contents are several pages with labeled pictures of common types of bikes and components. Study these pages and you can stop saying things like “the whats-it that’s connected to my whatchamacall-it thingy is broken.” At a glance you can see exactly what a headset or seat stay is, and have an instant visual of how a mountain bike is different from (and similar to), say, a time trial bike.

The main text begins with an overview of home repair. It discusses creating a work space, selecting the most commonly needed tools, performing preventative maintenance like adjustments and lubrication, keeping your body parts safe from injury while working, and, interestingly, how to box up a bike for shipping or travel.

Next the author discusses bicycle frames. He goes over the evolution of the bike frame into the various types and materials we have today, and educates the reader on how to properly maintain each frame type and inspect it for wear or damage. He also tackles the difficult topic of frame geometry, both in the general sense and in terms of bike fitting. I particularly enjoyed this section and as an example, I now have a technical understanding of why my Specialized Rockhopper handles so differently from my Giant Trance.

After frames, he moves into a discussion of suspension. He employs the same top-down approach as the previous sections, progressing from a big picture overview to painstakingly detailed methods. For the rest of the book, every component group is broken down in this same way. If you are a beginner, or are just curious, the introduction to each section is a great read and will give you a solid understanding of the history and purpose of the bicycle and its various parts. If you are mechanically inclined and want to start doing your own maintenance and light repairs, the next part of each section has the info you need. If you are determined to do all of your own work, or if you’re a shop or race team mechanic, the latter part of each section has detailed technical information with things like caliper measurements, torque numbers, exploded views, etc.

Again, this seems like a flood of information, and it is, but it is indexed so well that you can quickly flip to exactly what you need. Each section has excellent photographs of real bikes and components, with clear labels as needed. Most of the techniques described have accompanying graphics, frequently showing common errors along with the way things should look. There are also links to video tutorials at Bicycling.com for some of the more common repairs.

After spending some time with this book, I have no problem recommending that anyone with more than a passing interest in cycling grab a copy. It has a list price of $23.99, but I found it for around $15 at Barnes & Noble, Amazon and Buy.com. The very first adjustment or repair that you don’t have to go to the local bike shop for will more than cover the purchase price. That potential savings combined with all the interesting historical and summary information translates into an incredible value!

I would like to thank Rodale Press and Bicycling Magazine for sending a copy of this book for review.

At the suggestion of my local bike shop employees I’ve decided to try a new chain lube.  For the last year or so I’ve happily been using White Lightening’s Wet Ride lube.  It’s a very thick, heavy duty wet lube and in my experience a single application will last a couple hundred miles, in any kind of weather.  Rainy and muddy, dry and dusty, through axle deep creek crossing, you name it, White Lightening’s Wet Ride stays on the chain and keeps the drivetrain spinning smoothly and quietly.  I rarely need to re-lube my chain.

The problem is, Wet Ride is really messy.  Wet lubes can attract dirt which will accelerate wear on your drivetrain, and they make working on your drivetrain a dirty affair.  Also, when I do need to re-lube I have to first completely clean and degrease the chain before adding fresh lube. That’s the only way I’ve found to get rid of the gunk and grime that’s stuck to the chain.  It’s time consuming, messy, and I’d rather be riding!

Why Squirt?

Squirt Lube is a dry, self cleaning wax-based lube.  It goes on wet, then dries leaving behind a waxy substance that will lube moving parts, and then flake away when it gets dirty.  That last part is the reason I’ve stayed away from wax-based lubes in the past: they shed like a snake’s skin.  I like going on long, all-day rides, and I don’t want my lube to be all gone before I get home.  But supposedly Squirt lasts a long time before you need to re-lube your chain and the best part is, when you do need to re-lube, no de-greasing is required.  You can simply brush off the old wax, then put new wax on.  Here’s what the manufacturer has to say about their lube:

Squirt is a wax based, long lasting dry lube for the use on bicycle chains. This liquid lubricant has unique properties that make it ideal for use in any cycling condition. It had been developed to give better lubrication, last longer and keep the chain cleaner over extreme distances for both MTB and road cycling. No degreasing is required.

Due to Squirt’s composition, build-up due to dirt does not occur and no grinding paste will form. Continuous application can be done without having to clean the chain. Excess wax that gets expelled by the chain does not attract dirt, hardens slightly and falls off during riding. Cleaning with a dry brush is adequate. This lubricant also sticks to the chain longer and extends lubrication intervals.

How’s it going to stand up in the real world?  Will creek crossings wash it off?  Will it survive 6+hr rides?  Does it really stay clean?  These are the questions I’m going to answer.  In the next post on Squirt I’ll go over the initial application, how it’s withstood various conditions, and how often I’ve had to re-apply.

MSRP is about $12 at your local shop, or $10+shipping directly from Squirt.

Yep, it’s that time of year when folks are parking the bike and pulling out winter gear (that is unless you’re blessed with sun all year round – if so then I’m jealous). Luckily I have an indoor bike park nearby and can continue to ride, though clearly it’s not the same as churning dirt. Either way, all is not lost – this is the perfect time of year to take apart your ride and get busy fixing and tuning!

One piece of a equipment every mechanic should invest in is a quality torque wrench like the Topeak D-Torq DX. The shop-quality D-Torq is superior to most products I’ve used and truly makes your bike safer and easier to work on. For those who don’t know, I have a mechanical background in the aviation and automotive industries with an inter-provincial license plus I teach this stuff for a living. With that in mind, I have to say this is a great tool.

The D-Torq DX is a top quality tool intended to make torquing down fasteners a breeze. Older torque wrenches were either click or dial type wrenches that had to be set and monitored. These wrench types often slow down the work and in some cases they cause the user to get fed up and just go by feel which sorta defeats the purpose. Well, the folks at Topeak must have talked with shop workers to find out what they needed because they hit the nail on the head with the D-Torq DX.

Setting the torque value is quick and easy – just scroll up or down on the arrow buttons and you’re there. You don’t even have to look at the display when turning the wrench – a beep will alert you when you’ve reached your target.

One of the biggest hassles when dealing with torque values is the lack of standards (N-m, kg-cm, in-lb, and ft-lb). I’ve seen plenty of instances where manufacturers use different units for torque specs on the same instruction guide which forces me to keep a conversion chart handy. Since the D-Torq DX is digital it converts units on the fly with just a scroll of a button.

The D-Torq DX features a 3/8-inch square drive with everything you need to get to all the fasteners on your bike. It comes with all the popular socket and hex drives: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15mm sockets and 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10mm hex drive with adapter. You also get Torx T25, T30, and T40 for the increasingly popular Torx heads found on SRAM and Shimano components. A #2 phillips head is also included to complete the selection. Everything is arranged neatly in a convenient case.

Torque settings on the DX range from 4N-m to 80N-m which covers just about everything. If your bike is carbon or has carbon components this is the wrench for you; if you race this is the wrench for you; if you enjoy working on your own stuff – yep, this is the wrench for you too. I’ve been using my D-Torq DX on everything from brake calipers to disk bolts and from stem bolts to crank bolts.

Recently the D-Torq inspired me to make a checklist that to keep with all my bikes for the times I’m working on them or going to do some serious riding. The last thing I want is for something to fall off or break due to over- or under-tightening. I recommend creating a chart like the one below; you can even go a step further and laminate it and use non permanent markers to check off and re-check as needed. All the values can easily be found in your bike and component owners manuals. If you have a Specialized, for example, all the values you need can be found on their website. (If anyone is interested I can email you the chart in Word so you can change it up to match your bike.)

If I had to be picky (and I do), I’d like to see an on/off switch rather than the power timer featured on the D-Torq DX to extend the life of the battery. Every D-Torq DX ships with a certificate of calibration and includes all the sockets any bike mechanic should need. At $290 MSRP I feel like this is a fair price for the level of precision and protection you get. Just remember this is a calibrated, high precision tool – so don’t drop it!

Ever since Interbike I have been spending a ton of time assembling and rebuilding my bikes. To make the job go more smoothly (pun intended) I’ve been using Bike Line products from Motorex.

Bearing Lubrication

I recently assembled two new bikes (DH and trail) and repacked a few wheelsets and pedals and needed a decent grease that would provide excellent wear resistance while slowing water infiltration and damage. For this job, Motorex’s Bike Grease 2000 fit the bill perfectly. The photo above left shows fresh, clean Bike Grease 2000 in place after the bearing was cleaned. The photo on the right shows the bearing before being repacked. The funny thing is that the wheel was still working well but even with a sound design and good seals, water still can migrate into the bearings and begin to displace the grease. Bike Grease 2000 has a superior film strength to help prevent that from happening.

Chain, Pivot Points, and Bottom Bracket

For lubricating the small pivot points and of course the chain I used both the wet and dry lubes from Motorex. The lubes (both wet and dry) work very well. The dry lube takes a little time to set so it’s best to apply it well in advance of your ride. The wet lube stays on evenly in mud soaked situations without washing off right away, protecting the chain from dirt and grime invasion.

The photo below shows the spot where I like to add a bit of lubrication to prevent bad things from happening to the bottom bracket. The last thing you want is for the bearing cup to seize in your bike which could make a mess of the cups themselves and possibly kill your frame. An added measure of good, quality grease makes for easy installation and removal down the road.

Degreasing

Now this is truly cool: the Motorex Easy Clean degreaser uses the same carrying agents (Aliphatic Hydrocarbons) as the lubes themselves so they work hand in hand without killing paint or rubber seals. Unlike some other companies, Motorex manufactures all their products themselves and do not outsource to multiple vendors.

Bleeding Brakes & Frame Waxing

During a recent brake bleed I decided to go with the high performance DOT 5.1 (boils at 180°C / 355°F) from Motorex. I have to say the fluid flows exceedingly well through narrow brake lines and calipers. For general frame maintenance, Motorex offers a perfect spray and wipe wax called Bike Shine.

After using these products on multiple rigs I can that these are decent products. However, to get the best performance you really need to use both the lubes and degreaser from Motorex since they are designed to be paired together. Think of it as a high performance maintenance system rather than individual products.

Check out these and other fine products at Motorex’s website. I would also like to thank the folks at Motorex for providing these products for review.

On my week-long hut-to-hut mountain biking trip this summer I brought along a raft of extra parts: chain, derailleur, spokes, cables, and brake pads but to be honest I really didn’t know how I was gonna use some of that stuff. Fortunately one of the guys I rode with, Matt, had worked in a bike shop so he was my go-to guy with trailside repair questions. Unfortunately I don’t get to ride with smart guys like Matt all the time so I was stoked when I heard about the Bike Doctor iPhone app.

The app itself is pretty simple: repairs are grouped by category (brakes, wheel, crank, etc.) and can be filtered by bike type (mountain, road, or hybrid). Each repair is broken into steps so you can go at your own pace and the presentation is neat, readable, and easy to navigate. The first step lists the tools and supplies you’ll need to complete the task and the tutorials offer (mostly) helpful photos to go along with the instructions.

The app is completely self-contained so you don’t need an internet connection to use it which makes it a good choice for backcountry excursions (just bring extra batteries if you’ll be gone a long time!). There’s even a safety check section included, though it’s mostly common sense and mountain bikers may not find it all that useful. Beyond repair stuff the Bike Doctor app also includes maintenance tutorials on how to clean and lube your bike.

I like the idea of putting repair info into a mobile format so I can use it in my basement workshop without lugging the computer down or printing pages from a PDF that I’ll end up throwing away afterward. While the Bike Doctor app doesn’t cover everything yet (bleeding hydraulic disk brakes comes to mind), hopefully we’ll see the number of tutorials grow as the app is updated.

Bike Doctor is also available for Android phones – check out the Bike Doctor app website to find out more and to purchase your copy.

Alas, all good things come to an end. After two and a half years of serious bashing and pushing my Opus Maadh to its limits, the bike started showing signs of its final days. So before I got stuck, the good folks at Opus sent me the Maadh’s replacement: the Opus Clutch 1.

At this point you might be wondering how I knew the frame was nearing its end and how you might identify the same signs on your bike. Assuming that you haven’t smashed your bike up badly and haven’t bent the crap outta it, you may not see any visible signs but you can tell in other ways. On my frame, the early warning signs came via excessive noise from the suspension. The creaking noise was most noticeable when I was hammering on the pedals.

Taking the bike apart the first time there was no visible damage but I did notice uneven wear on pivot spacers and such (which is a good warning and may itself generate noise). I cleaned the pivots up, making sure that they were still parallel and within spec and I looked at the pivot bearings where I didn’t find any issues (I had exchanged a lower pivot that was worn away earlier this year).

I put the bike back together, re-torqued all the bolts, and took the bike back out for a ride. The bike seemed to get better and rode great once again for a little while but after a few more rides at Kelso, Hydrocut and Three Stages in Collingwood, the noise was even louder than before. Taking a closer look I finally saw the problem: fatigue cracks. Yup, it happens and this is why I’m writing this article, focusing on how to identify problems but most importantly, how to deal with warranty issues.

I recommend totally cleaning and inspecting your bike every so often (especially after a major crash) for cracking or any abnormal behavior. For example, one of my good friends and riding buddies was experiencing a nasty creak when the rear suspension on his Santa Cruz Blur LT went through its motions. The bike was also ghost shifting from time to time which was strange. Taking a closer look at home I found there were two cracked bearings in the lower pivot. The cracked bearing ran out of grease (making the noise) and the cracks allowed the rear triangle to shift around a bit and slightly twist (accounting for some of the ghost shifting). Well in his case all it took was a complete bearing and bushing kit (about $100) and he was good to go. Another good friend of mine had a Rocky Mountain Slayer that wanted to do its own thing while he pedaled away. Well that one had bushing issues (an item which, like the Blur issue, is considered wear and tear, not covered under warranty). About $20 dollars later and he was good to go.

My new Opus Clutch 1

The Clutch 1 frameset is the replacement for the Maadh in Opus’s line up for 2010 and 2011. With 150mm of rear travel using a floating pivot point arrangement, the frame is made from 7005-T6 triple-butted hydro-formed tubing, same as the old Maadh. But that’s where the similarities end. First, and most importantly, the Clutch seat tube is a smoother, less manipulated affair with fewer welds (where cracks can form). Along with the improved and cleaner looking seat tube, the rear triangle was reconfigured for even more tire clearance. If you put the two frames side by side you also notice that the down tube has been flared wider at the bottom bracket for an stiffer, more responsive pedal stroke. I also noticed that the folks at Opus did away with the unique “C’ style plastic clamp used to hold down the shifting / brake hose on the down tube. Now the frame uses regular tie wraps that can be easily sourced whenever needed.

So it’s kinda funny how things pan out. It was great heading to Interbike with a brand new frameset at home waiting to be tricked out with the latest components. Mad props to the guys at Opus for sending down the new frame so quickly and taking care of me.  Once the bike is built up and ready I will give you all the low down on the build and more importantly, a review on how it handles.