So a couple weeks ago I got to meet Nate Stinson of Down South Cyclery, Atlanta’s only mobile bike repair service. Nate is a mountain biker with a pretty sweet set-up that makes bike work painless and I’m pretty much sold on the concept now. It’s convenient, affordable, and educational - what more can you ask for?

In terms of convenience, mobile bike repair is the way to go. I don’t know how your LBS operates but at my local shop any repair job more complicated than changing a tire or installing a chain means you gotta leave your rig for a few days. For those who ride nearly every day of the week, this can be like giving up your first born child, and for me it’s meant delaying necessary repairs that just get worse with time (kinda like avoiding the dentist). Down South Cyclery comes to you and gets the repair done on the spot - separation anxiety avoided.

With low overhead, Nate is also able to charge a little less for repairs than you might expect to pay at your LBS. The Down South website offers a full menu of services and prices so you always know what a job is going to cost up front. For example, installing a suspension fork will set you back just $25 and hydraulic brake bleeding is just $15 per brake. There’s a minimum $35 charge for Nate to come out to your place but I promise you’ll get a ton of work out of that $35!

Nate is a Barnett-trained bike mechanic and clearly he knows his stuff. I sorta talked his ear off while he was working on my bike but Nate didn’t seem to mind. I learned a ton just by watching him install a fresh set of Gore RideOn cables on my Redline 29er and he even helped me diagnose a chronic problem with my rear derailleur.

The Down South Cyclery repair truck is a serious rig stocked full of any and every bike tool you can imagine. Apparently the truck is still being outfitted but the great thing is that Nate has a built-in work space in the back of the truck so he can work no matter where he’s parked. He’ll even meet you at work if that’s more convenient!

Anyway, if you’re in the Atlanta area and need some bike work done, don’t hesitate to call or email Nate and Down South Cyclery. If you’re not in Atlanta, check your local listings for mobile bike repair services - I highly recommend it!

Believe it or not, this article can save you from visiting the dentist. Nope, this isn’t about brushing your teeth (though a toothbrush is involved) - it’s about servicing your mountain bike fork. Servicing your mountain bike fork is important yet it’s often overlooked until it’s too late. Your MTB fork owner’s manual should state the service intervals and it’s a good idea to follow the recommendations to get the maximum life and performance out of your fork. Some forks really work the fluids hard which will cause the them to break down slowly meaning won’t be able to tell the difference from one day to the next. But if we place two forks side by side and one was run for 75+ hours and the other was fresh, you will definitely feel a difference.

For this article I’ll be talking specifically about Manitou forks that utilize TPC and Absolute damping but many of these tips will be applicable no matter which fork you ride (just remember to check the owners guide that came with your fork for specifics).

Continuing to run a fork past its service interval will cause excessive wear which can cost more to repair. Lets face it: in today’s economy, no on can afford to spend needlessly. As a licensed technician in Canada, I always tell my students and former customers: You can pay a little now…. or a lot later. Servicing your MTB fork yourself will save you a bunch of cash in the long run. This is actually a pretty simple job and believe it or not there is only one special tool that you may need depending on your fork.

WARNING: Before attempting any work or opening the fork, make sure you release any pretension or air pressure.

CAUTION: When re-assembling your fork, follow all manufacturer-recommended torque procedures. If you don’t own a torque wrench, now may be the time to invest.

DO it right…FIX it right….DO not over tight!

Who should attempt this task? If you’re not afraid to change your tires or make minor repairs, this job really isn’t that much harder. All you have to remember is to take pictures of the deconstruction and follow your service guide. Changing the fork seals and fluid is actually easier than it sounds - just make sure you have a clean place to work and a solid work bench. Please remember to go over the list of necessary equipment before you start the job.

Tools and materials required

20mm and 11mm socket or wrench
8, 6, 5, 4, 2mm Allen wrench or socket
Soft face hammer
1/2 dowel
Graduated cylinder or fluid measuring cup
Graduated syringe
Pick tool or fine flat screwdriver
Small zip lock bag
O-ring kits (order for your year fork)
Dust wiper kit (the Manitou R7 uses a 30mm kit)
Fork oil (5 wt is standard for the oil bath)
Semi bath oil (5W40 synthetic)
Prep M grease (synthetic)

MTB Fork Removal

So you got all your parts together (seals, fluids, tools) and are ready to go. The first thing is to remove your front wheel and front brake from the fork. You will need a 6 or 5 mm Allen socket or wrench to remove the brake completely from your fork (you may also need to cut the tie wrap that holds the brake line.) Once the wheel and brake are removed you can concentrate on removing the top cap and stem. Once again, most bolts will require either a 4, 5, or 6mm socket or wrench.

Be sure to hold the fork when you are ready to take the stem off your bike; otherwise, the fork may fall on the ground when the stem separates from the steering tube. Once the bar and stem are free, let the fork hang carefully. Now remove the fork and make sure to grab the lower bearing and seal and place them with the other bolts that you removed thus far. You should have a top cap and bolt, two bolts and washers which held the brake, spacers, and the lower bearing. Place all those components somewhere safe. To finish this segment off, place the fork in a stand (if you don’t have a stand you’ll have to hold it or have someone assist you at times).

MTB Fork Cleaning

You are now at the stage where it becomes very important not to contaminate the inside of your fork. Sand particles inside your fork will ruin things very quickly, so it’s time to thoroughly clean the outside of the fork. I use a bike specific cleaner (you can simply use dish soap and warm water solution if you like) to wash off all the sand and crud. Using an old toothbrush to agitate the dirt, I make sure that all the grim has been removed, especially around the seals. Once you have removed all the dirt and the fork is dry, it’s time to start taking things apart.

MTB Fork Disassembly

Just in case you missed the warning. THE FIRST THING TO DO IS RELEASE THE AIR PRESSURE. The following instructions apply specifically to Manitou forks like the Minute, Drake, and R7. If you have a different fork, consult your owner’s manual.

Underneath the black Schrader cap on the LEFT fork leg (in the saddle looking at your fork) is the pressure release valve. You can use any thing to depress the valve; note that there may be a little bit of fluid that comes up which is normal. You will also notice that when all the air is released the fork will slightly compress which is also normal (this is the negative spring in the left leg).

Now, on the bottom of the RIGHT leg you have to first turn the rebound knob all the way in (clockwise), then remove the 2mm Allen bolt and adjuster knob. With an 8mm Allen key, turn in the damper shaft (same side) clockwise all the way until it is disengaged from the lower casting. Have a container ready to catch the little bit of oil that will come out of the lower legs. Moving back to the LEFT fork leg (still upside down), use an 11 mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the compression rod in place. Turn the fork right side up (legs down) to catch all the fluid (approx. 2oml) and you’re ready to remove and clean the lower assembly.

Start by removing the seals with a large wrench. Be careful to grab only the seal, then pry it off gently. I usually replace seals after 100 hours of riding since they are cheap and offer great insurance against any crud getting inside. Once the seals are off you can remove the foam seals which are just under the wipers. Use a mild soap solution to clean out the oil residue inside. If you have a lint free rag, wipe out all the rest of the residue and let dry. Set the fork lowers aside for a moment while you work on the fork uppers.

On the LEFT fork leg you are now going to remove the air piston and the compression rod. To remove the compression rod and piston, use a 20 mm wrench and turn the black nut on the bottom counter-clockwise until the rod is free, then clean it up a bit and set it aside. Pay attention to the bottom-out bumper - if it looks squashed, it’s time to get a new one.

On the top of the LEFT leg you can remove the black nut with Schrader cap using a 20mm wrench (counter-clockwise again). Once the cap is removed, take a look at the seal and make sure it is not ripped or dry. At this point you can see the air piston in the fork leg. To remove it, slide a dowel from underneath to push the piston all the way out. The piston has orientation with a blue square seal on top and a black round seal on bottom so keep that in mind when placing it back (remember what I said about taking photos?). Inspect both seals to make sure they are not scratched or cracking.  I like to apply a small amount of synthetic shock oil to the piston and place it in a bag until I am ready to reassemble the air spring side of the shock. Final step on the LEFT leg is to clean the bore out of the fork leg using a solution of warm soap and water followed by a rinse of Speed Clean. Towel dry the tube and that’s that for the LEFT leg.

Moving on to the RIGHT leg, it’s time to grab a graduated cylinder that is totally clean. Use a 2 mm allen key to remove the top TPC / Absolute adjuster cap. BE CAREFUL when lifting up the cap underneath - there are 2 ball bearings and 2 springs inside. Carefully collect the pieces and place them somewhere safe like a plastic baggy. Once the springs and bearings are removed you’re ready to remove the damper using a 20mm socket or wrench.

With the damper loose, make sure the fork has its legs facing down and remove the damper. Once the damper is out you’ll need to measure the amount of oil inside and there are two ways to do it. I like to use a graduated cylinder to catch all the oil and record the amount of fluid. Alternatively you can use a measuring tool and look up table supplied in the owners service guide to find the correct oil level. I prefer the first method for the first time doing the service (factory fill is correct - see example chart below). Once the damper is out, turn the fork over and collect all the oil (the photo above shows about 100ml of oil that came out of my fork). Cycle the damper shaft a few times to remove the remaining oil. Clean the piston assembly with a lint free cloth and put it aside.

MTB Fork Reassembly

Starting with the lower assembly, install the foam seals and add some semi bath oil (5W40 synthetic P/N  85-0022) to get the foam seals good and wet (I use a heavier duty synthetic lube from Red Line called Shock Proof Heavy). Next, install the seals using a large socket that fits over the entire seal to seat squarely in place. Once the seals are in you can add a bit of Semi bath oil in each leg to lube the DU bushings.

Set the lower legs aside and start assembling the upper assembly, LEFT fork leg first. Lube up the compression spring with a bit of synthetic grease (prevents noise), then install it into the assembly, and add about 20 ml of semi bath oil. Torque the end cap to 80-100 in/lbs.

Turn the fork so that the fork legs are facing down and install the piston into the LEFT fork leg (remember the direction of the piston **blue seal up**).  Now place the lubed piston squarely on top and add a bit of semi bath oil to help push it past the first few threads on the top of the fork. Once you get it past the threads you can push the piston in a bit more and add about 3 cc of semi bath fluid to the top of the piston (I use the heavier-duty Red Line product there as well). Replace the top cap using a 20mm socket wrench and torque to 60 - 80 in/lbs.

Now it’s time to assemble the damper side RIGHT fork leg. First thing we have to do is set the fork legs facing down, then fill the fork leg 1/4 of the way up with damper fluid (P/N 85-0023) which is a 5wt oil (depending on your weight you may want to add a heavier oil). I weigh about 185 lbs plus another 6 lbs for gear I am at 191 lbs so I use a 10wt oil in my fork which allows me to really back off on the compression and rebound adjusters.

With the leg 1/4 of the way filled, cycle the damper rod slowly a few times (removes the air) then fill the leg to the correct level - in my case the Manitou R7 needs 105mm. Once the level is correct you can place the compression rod and torque it to 80 - 100 in/lbs.  Finish off the task by placing the small springs and bearings opposite each other under the adjuster knob and tighten with a 2mm Allen wrench. Torque to 4 - 6 in/lbs.

Orient the fork so it’s tilted at a 45 degree angle and carefully slide the lower fork legs onto the upper assembly. Please be careful - the seals must not get folded or they will leak. Slide the lowers down until they just about touch the compression rod and rebound damper. Inject 16cc of Semi-bath fluid in each fork leg and slide the fork in further so you can tighten them in place. For the RIGHT leg you will need the 8mm Allen socket to tighten it in place (counterclockwise  30 - 40 in/lb); replace the rebound knob (blue knob 2mm Allen bolt 4 - 6 in/lbs). On the LEFT leg, use the 11mm socket wrench and tighten it to 45 - 55 in/lbs

Once the fork is all assembled you can simply install it on your bike and you’re good to go. All you have to remember is the orientation of the bearings and remember to make sure that the brake bolts are torqued in place and the brake disk is drag free. It feels good to avoid the dentist

We’ve had a pretty good response so far but today is the last day to post your MTB cable nightmare for a chance to win a sweet set of Gore Sealed Low Friction Derailleur Cables ($65 MSRP).  We have a few sets to give away so don’t be left out - post your cable disaster story and Gore just might hook you up. Hollah!

You may have seen mobile bike repair services advertised but apparently this is a new concept: a bike-powered bike repair service. Leave it to the Germans to find a way to use bikes to repair bikes - somehow I’m envisioning a snake eating its own tail here…

The cool thing is that stranded cyclists can call the ‘Radambulanz’ in Cologne or Berlin and a bike mechanic will show up on a bike towing a tool-trailer. The service boasts zero emissions (remember what I said about green biking?), quick service, and, according to the article I read, affordable prices. I’m guessing most of the calls involve flat tires on the commute home but even pro mechanics could use a hand with a snapped derailleur or bent wheel. Sorta like having your own support vehicle that only shows up when you need it.

Unfortunately I don’t think this service extends to off-road areas or mountain bike trails yet. During my ride on Tuesday I was thinking, in my semi-delirious state, that it would be cool if there was a “hydration man” that cruised the forest roads in popular MTB areas sorta like the ice cream man in the suburbs. Instead of frozen treats he could offer Gatorade, water, and Power Shots to thirsty and exhausted bikers in addition to providing light repair services. Think about how sweet it would be to hear the hydration man’s song just when you’re miles from the car and about to bonk!

Here at singletracks we’ve incorporated biking into many of our t-shirt deliveries (bet you didn’t know that!). We print postage right here in the office then deliver the packages to the post office or drop box via bike. I wonder why Nashbar doesn’t do the same

Pretty much the biggest upgrade you can give your mountain bike is a new fork but the installation can seem daunting even to experienced MTB tinkerers. If you’ve been considering a fork upgrade but aren’t sure where to start, you’re in luck: here is the step by step procedure that nearly all shops will use to successfully replace your MTB fork. Once you get good at the procedure you could easily do this task in about 35 minutes but for the first time, allot yourself a good hour and a bit. No need to rush this job -the more care you take the better results you will have.

Read your manufacturer’s instructions

The very first thing anyone should do is read the installation instructions. I don’t care if you are an experienced mechanic or a bike tech, there is always something in there that you may not have know or forgotten, and funny thing it is usually the most important piece of information that you need.

Gathering  all the Tools

To do this job you need to round up a few items and tools:

Bike stand
Shop rags (to clean up remove excessive grease)
Allen sockets 3, 4, 5, 6mm (for use with your torque wrench)
Allen keys 3, 4, 5, 6mm
Side cutter (for removing old tie straps)
Soft face hammer
Chisel / standard screwdriver or crown race puller (Park tool #CRP-1)
Tape measure or ruler
Hack saw
Half round file with holder
Pipe cutter with new blade
Threadless saw guide (Park tool #SG-6 or similar)
Threadless nut installer (Park tool #TNS-1 or similar)
Tube that will fit over the steering tube and install the lower crown race
Torque wrench
Shock pump (high pressure up to 250psi)

You may need a new brake adapter if you are changing a fork that had IS (International Standard) mounts to one with post mounts but if your forks use the same mounting system you won’t need an adapter.

Warnings

This is IMPORTANT: If you do not feel you can do this, then don’t. Steering tubes are generally not replaceable so if you cut yours too short, then you’re outta luck. As always, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE! When in doubt, read the last sentence again.  When cutting you should wear safety glasses and you should never use a file without a handle. Be careful not to nick the side of the steering tube with any sharp object.

Removing front wheel and top cap

The very first step is to remove the front wheel. Next, release the top cap, take it off, and put it aside in a container so you don’t loose the bolt and cap.

Removing the front brake

Most bikes today use post mount brakes and in this case, it’s a simple matter of removing the two bolts that secure the caliper onto the fork. If you have an IS adapter, (International Standard) remove the brake from that point. Make sure all the hardware is placed in a small plastic bag (these use different bolts and should be kept separate).

Removing Brake Hose

Most bikes have the brake hose attached to it in one of two ways: a small plastic mount or a plastic tie wrap. If your fork uses a tie wrap, carefully cut it off, avoiding touching your brake line. Otherwise, simply remove the hex bolt that holds the clip in place and move the brake hose and caliper away. Under no circumstances should you be removing the brake line from the caliper.

Removing Stem Assembly

Use the series of photos below for the following instructions.

With one hand on the lower crown, hold the fork in position while loosening the stem bolts. The moment the bolts are loosened the fork will fall so better to be safe than sorry! Once you have released the bolts enough, remove the stem and bar as an assembly and allow it to sit on one side of the bike. Afterward, remove the spacers and top crown race and place them somewhere safe.

Remove fork

Once you have removed the fork you’ll find the lower bearing race and seal which you’ll need to remove so pay attention to the orientation of the bearing. Your bearing may not look like the one in the picture (this is what is called a cartridge bearing) but bearings won’t stray too far from this design. Keep in mind cartridge bearings are packed with grease so check to see how smooth they are moving (twist them and feel for grittiness, the smoother the better). If your bearings are rough you may want to consider a new headset at this time.

Remove lower crown race

If you plan on reusing your old headset you’ll need to remove the lower race; otherwise, skip this step. There are a two ways that you can remove the lower race: use Park Tools CRP-1 OR if you are careful enough you can use a sharp chisel or a screw driver and gently tap the race off by working around ring, removing it evenly. Just be careful not to hit the steering tube! Wedge the tool between the fork crown and race, prying it upward until it pops off. Once off, put the race with the other parts of the headset.

Measuring Steering Tube Length

Measure the existing steering tube from the mounting face of the crown to the end of the steering tube (you may want to record that number). Next mark the new steering tube with a felt marker.

If you’re placing a new headset and it is not the same as the one that came off, you’ll need to use another method to figure out the steering length. To do that, first measure the head tube of the bike, then check the manufacturer’s info for the stack height of the headset plus the spacers and the thickness of the stem. Add it all up and with that total number subtract 2mm and that should be the length that you need to cut.

Head tube length  +
Headset stack height  +
Spacer stack  +
Stem thickness  +

Subtract 2mm from that total (this is for the top cap clearance and space required to preload the bearings).

Mark and cut the fork

With the correct length marked on your fork you now have two options for cutting the fork. The first method is to use a threadless saw guide and a hack saw. Set your guide so that when the blade draws over your mark it sits just above the cut line - this ensures that the tube extension doesn’t get cut to short. Ease up on the last few strokes before cutting through - this will prevent a large burr from forming at the end that will have to be filed clean. Finally, carefully remove the saw marks off the top and file the edge at a 45 degree angle to ensure there is no burr or edge that can scratch you or components on installation.

The second method involves the use of a pipe cutter with a fresh blade (shown above). Just make sure to line up your pipe cutter just above the cut line and rotate evenly to get a clean cut.

Installing the star nut

This step really is really best accomplished using a star nut setting tool, though you could try to install it by other means (you will have a very hard time doing so). Screw the star nut onto the nut setting tool all the way, then line up the star nut with the steering tube (do your best at lining things up here otherwise you will have issues later). Tap the star nut in to place and make sure you set it in a minimum of 5mm. Some tools have a stop that will set the nut in the right way every time.

Install the lower bearing race

Once the star nut is installed it’s time to install the lower bearing race. You can go and purchase the correct tool from a tool manufacturer such as Park or find yourself a tube that fits over the steering tube.  I fashioned the tube shown here myself and included a small nylon ring to protect the bearing race. Carefully tap the bearing ring in place and make sure the race sits squarely on the fork crown.

Install fork

Once the lower bearing race is installed you can go ahead and replace the fork. Remember to replace the lower bearing and seal, then install the fork. Next, install the upper bearing, keeping in mind the orientation of the bearing, then install the compression ring (make sure flat side up) and the top cover. If you plan on using spacers below the stem, install them now followed by the stem itself. You should end up with 2- 3mm of space. Finally you can replace the top cap and stem bolt. Do not torque anything yet.

Install the front brake and cable

At this point you should be ready to install the front brake. When you have the brake loosely installed, make sure you’re using the correct bolt length (there should be 8 threads exposed past the caliper). Replace the front wheel with disk, being careful not to jam your rotor into the pads. Once the front wheel is correctly installed now you can set the caliper in place. The way I usually set up the brake is to slowly compress the brake lever, keeping the caliper as centered as possible when applying brake pressure. Slowly tighten the bolts down. Release the brake and spin the wheel while listening to make sure that the pads are not contacting the rotor. You may need to re-adjust the brake by loosening the bolts slightly and carefully moving the caliper until you don’t hear it rubbing when spinning the wheel. DO NOT stick your fingers near the rotor while in motion.

Once you are satisfied with the performance of the front brake, apply brake pressure again and torque the caliper bolts to the amount recommended by both the brake and fork manufacturers. If the fork you are installing states a lower torque value, use that one.  The final job is to keep the cable from rubbing on any moving parts. Some forks come with a convenient mounting point, others require a tie wrap.

Now it’s finally time to line up the wheel with the stem and bars. Stand in front of your bike and hold the wheel between your legs. With your hands grab the bars and wiggle them side to side, slowly centering the bars. Once set you can tighten the stem bolts a bit.

Now, double check to see if the bar is straight. Grab the front brake and rock the bike fore and aft while listening and feeling for a light clunk. If the front clunks you may have insufficient pre-load on the stem top cap in which case you’ll need to loosen the two stem bolts slightly and give the top cap bolt a half turn. Keep doing this until the clunk disappears. If the steering suddenly gets too stiff, you went too far on the top cap tension. Once you have the correct tension, line it up and now torque the stem bolts (use the correct torque from the stem manufacturer).

Now - you’re done! You did it!

Cheers.

Just a quick thanks to the folks at Manitou,Hayes and Opus for their support.

There usually comes a time when a mountain biker decides to repair some of his or her own equipment. In this day and age, doing the job yourself is not only cheaper but also prepares you for trailside repairs and prolongs the life of your gear. While I’m not suggesting putting your LBS service department out of business, home repairs can help you save some dough so you can buy more stuff (like new cycling shoes or hydraulic brakes). Changing a flat tire yourself saves $7 and doing a simple tune-up on your own can save you $25-60 - that’s money you can put right back into your rig!

In this article I will go over the function of major tools that you need to tune up your bike. I will also mention a few tools for those who are interested in doing more advanced work.

For most repairs you can assemble a simple set of tools.

* A good work stand to hold your bike when doing repairs. Pick a stand that can be collapsed and portable so you can take it with you. Three-leg (tripod) stands work best and offer the most stable platform at home or outdoors. Topeak, Ultimate, and Park have many bike work stands to choose from.

* Allen wrench 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10mm used for removing most of your components; you can either use T-handle or standard L-shaped wrenches. T-handle wrenches tend to generate more torque with less stress on your hands. L-shaped Allen wrenches can generate a bit too much force when holding the long end if you’re not careful.

* Side cutters used for cutting brake and inner shifting cables. I recommend purchasing one at least 6 inches long.

* Cable housing cutter used to cut brake and shifting cable outer housing.  The Park Tools cable cutter works great.

* Cone wrenches 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm used for adjusting wheel bearings and hard to reach or slim areas. To save yourself some money get only the ones you need. For adjusting wheel bearings sometimes you need two sets of cone wrenches.

* Pedal wrench for removing pedals. A good quality pedal wrench is slightly offset to prevent your hands from striking the crank.

* Headset wrenches used for those who have older style threaded steering tubes 32, 36, 40mm.

* Bottom bracket wrench. You can purchase a bottom bracket wrench that matches your bottom bracket or purchase one in a socket drive form.

* Phillips #2 and #1 screwdrivers used for adjusting the derailleur stops on your derailleurs. You probably already have these laying around your house.

* Standard (flathead) screwdrivers with 7/16 and 3/8 wide blades for adjusting derailleurs.

* Crank and crankbolt extractor - be sure to get the one that matches your type of crank. For X-drive bottom brackets all you need is an 8 or 10mm Allen key.

* T25 torx drive used to remove disk brake bolts. Get the T-handle version since it gives you more torque to break free those stubborn bolts.

* Don’t forget the cleaning products which should include a good quality bike wash for breaking down dirt without attacking painted surfaces. A de-greaser to remove gunk off your chain. Chain lube (choose the one that closely matches your terrain: wet, dry, epic, etc.). Grease (Phil Wood, Permatex Ceramic lube or similar) used for re-packing bearings, headsets, for inside seat posts (** DO NOT apply grease in carbon frame sets**)

For wheel service and wheel building including freehub service (advanced)

* Wheel truing stand. A simple one will work just fine but the more complex units have self centering features.

* Truing wrenches which come in four sizes and are color coded. Bring your wheel to the store to match up the sizes with your spokes.

* Tire Iron used to help remove the tire from the rim. Purchase a set of three (** Use caution on wheelsets that are tubeless as some levers may damage the rim strips**).

* Cone wrenches which are thinner than normal wrenches and allow you to fit them in the sides of the wheel to adjust your bearings.

* Freehub lock ring tools or freewheel removal tool. Bring in your rear wheel to match up  the tool if you’re not sure which to purchase. This tool is a must if you intend to replace broken spokes on the drive side of your rear wheel

* Chain whip used to hold the gears in place while releasing your lock ring or freewheel.

* Chain pin tool. Necessary if you’re planning to remove a chain which does not have a “power link.”

*Chain cleaning device (not shown) used to house a cleaning solution and a convenient way to degrease your chain.

* Toothbrush or similar bristle tool to clean freehub gears.

* Various lubes for wheel bearings and special lube for the freehub.

* Wheel building book or guide.

* Any tools specific to your wheels. Mavic, for example, makes a special spoke wrench and tools for servicing their wheels.

For finishing up your work and final assembly or specialty tools.

* Allen socket set 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10mm for use with your torque wrench for final assembly and proper torque settings.

* 1/4″ Torque wrench used for setting low torque values on brakes, shifters, derailleurs, stems, seatposts, seatpost clamps, and everything else. Especially important if you use Carbon components.

* 3/8″ Torque wrench used for setting high values of torque (200 in/lbs+) mainly used for pedals and crank arms.

* Fine screwdrivers used for opening shifting pods and exchanging cables or for internal components in shocks.

* Shock pump. Only necessary if you have an air fork or rear shock.

* 6, 7, 8, and 10mm sockets may be needed for torque settings on various components.

* Threadlocking compound (permanent and low strength). Your need for this stuff will depend on the type of terrain you ride.

* Special sockets or tools for specific tasks such as bleeding brakes, fork internal repairs, suspension tools, sag setting devices, star nut tools, etc. Hang on to tools like small bottles or syringes, picks, swabs, old tooth brushes and the such.

Tool kit recommendations

Most DIY bike mechanics will want to gradually build up an arsenal of tools as repairs come up but for those looking to jump right in there are a few pre-assembled kits available. If you’re market for a basic set-up the Park Tools SK-1 Home Mechanic Starter Kit is a decent option. An even better value with more tools is the Sette Torx ST-37 Tool Kit (on sale at Pricepoint for $140) or the Filzer BFTB Tool Box II.

This list of tools may grow over time with your experience beyond what is presented here, but then again it may not which is fine. This list is only a guide to help those of you who are thinking about repairing your bike and are not sure which tools to get or why you need them.

One final very special tool - information. Get your hand on as many guides and manufacturer-specific installation instructions and have them at the ready when its time to fix your rig. Nothing beats first-hand info.

Cheers.

Hydraulic disc brakes have many of the same components as mechanical disc systems with some minor but important differences. For one thing hydraulic disc brakes rely on fluid to push the pistons while mechanical brakes use a cable under tension pulling a lever to activate a cam device with a piston attached. Second, hydraulic brake lines have fluid in them under pressure when activated and cannot be damaged in any way (kinks, bulges, or leaks can render them ineffective).

Most hydraulic systems that are on the market today are dual piston (more powerful systems can have up to eight pistons), though a few entry level brakes operate similar to mechanical brakes with one piston that moves and one that is stationary. For systems that utilize two or more pistons, you will get more braking force, better modulation, and little or no drag and both pads will retract from your rotor after you apply the brakes. By using hydraulic fluid instead of a cable, there is less total drag on the brake system which gives a more crisp braking experience. With hydraulic disc brakes you are less likely to encounter problems in the long run compared to mechanical discs.

In this article we will follow the steps necessary to successfully service your hydraulic disc brakes:

Tools and equipment needed

Brake caliper inspection

Brake lever inspection

Brake hose inspection

Brake bleeding procedure

Brake pad replacement

Cleaning, assembly, torque, and adjustments

Tools and Equipment

Before we get started servicing hydraulic brakes it is necessary to have all the tools and supplies needed. When inspecting your brakes, make sure you have all the right tools like these bellow.

* Bleed kit specific to your brake which usually contains clear hoses, fittings to your caliper and lever, and squeeze bottles or syringes.
* Fresh brake fluid. Note: I highly recommend a good quality DOT 5.1 for Avid, Formula, Hayes, and Hope brakes. DO not use DOT 5. Use the mineral-based factory fluid for Shimano/Magura brakes. Do not use the mineral oil that’s sold from a drug store.
* Brake line wrenches, 8mm.
* Torque wrench.
* Allen sockets usually 4,5,6mm.
* Wrenches for bleed screws, usually a 6mm or 8mm.
* Torx wrenches (for bleed screws on brake lever usually T7,T8,T10).
* Torx wrench for rotor, T25.
* Alcohol used for cleaning up spills on the rotor surfaces.
* A lint-free cloth to wipe down your parts.
* Your brake manufacturer’s instructions (Avid, Magura, Hayes, they all have instructions which are available for free online).
* Bicycle repair stand that swivels.
* Spare parts as required for your service: Brake pads, stripped worn hardware, hoses, hose fittings…etc.

Brake Caliper Inspection

The first thing you need to do when servicing your hydraulic brakes it to remove the wheels and clean dirt and grime off the brake caliper. I use a worn out toothbrush, which does an excellent job. After you have cleaned the caliper, remove the brake pads.

Remember that your brake pads may have a return spring (placed between the pads), a cotter pin or a bolt that holds the pads in place. Sometimes there is not enough room to remove the pads and it may be necessary to carefully press/ pry the pads into the brake caliper using the pad separator that came with your brake set ( if you don’t have one just visit your LBS - they usually have dozens kicking around). A wide screwdriver may work here in a pinch.

Once the pads are in all the way you can carefully remove the pads one at a time by pulling them out with a pair of pliers. Once the pads are removed inspect the caliper for leaks around the pistons which now can been seen clearly. If the caliper pistons are not all the way in use a 10mm or 11mm wrench and pry the pistons all the way in, carefully avoiding the center post that usually resides in the middle of the piston. Prevent any oil from getting on the surface of the rotor or brake pads - the oil can ruin your brake pads permanently.

With the pads removed squeeze the brake lever 2 – 3 times and make sure the piston extends and retracts; this also helps lubricate the seals. After making sure your pistons move and both move the same amount, make sure that you retract them all the way in again using the 10mm wrench as before. If the pistons don’t move it’s time to get a rebuild kit (Avid, Hayes, Shimano) or a new caliper (Magura). Rebuilding a caliper is a bit involved and beyond many home mechanics’ skill set so I am excluding this procedure from this article.

Brake Lever Inspection

At this time you will now inspect your brake lever. First thing to do especially if you were involved in a accident is to check the lever and body for cracks or damage of any kind. If the lever feels loose it may be that the pivots are worn and need replacement; most manufacturers sell a pivot pin kit. Visually check and feel for leaks where the push rod meets the piston assembly. If it leaks it’s a good time to get the rebuild kit, or have your LBS take it from there. To finish the inspection get the torque wrench and check the torque of the bolts that hold the brake lever in place, and more importantly look to see that your bar has not cracked in that area (especially important for those riders who had a bad fall or own a carbon bar).

Brake Hose Inspection

Now is a great time to inspect your brake hose. Look along the entire length for any bulges, wet spots, or abrasions. If any of these signs show, it is time to replace your hose. Check the connection that goes between the hose and the caliper / lever; an 8mm wrench will usually help you tighten the hose in place.

Some manufacturers use a banjo fitting on the brake caliper. Take hold of the banjo fitting and see if it is tight by trying to move it by hand. If it moves it is loose and needs to be torqued once again. Finally, bikes with full suspension go through a lot of movement so visually inspect the hose to make sure the hose has not become worn in those areas.

Bleeding Brakes for Hydraulic Systems

At this point you may be wondering how air gets trapped in a hydraulic brake system anyway. If you open your system or shorten a hose, air can get introduced and must be removed. When this happens, the air is removed using a process called bleeding.

Hydraulic braking systems use a non-compressible fluid (such as DOT 3, 4, 5.1 or Mineral oil) to transmit force that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor. There must be no air trapped  in that system for the fluid to work properly. If air is in the line, considerable energy will be lost to compressing the air instead of operating the brakes.

I will use a hybrid method that Avid and Hayes recommend which is a sure shot way to remove air and eliminate future leaks.

Fill a syringe halfway with brake fluid and add your hose and all fittings required to attach it to the caliper. Tap the syringe and slowly squeeze it to remove the excess air (you know, like the surgeons do on ER). Once that is done, attach the syringe to the bleeder screw (on Hayes you need to place your bleeder wrench 6mm first). On Hayes brakes you can leave the bleeder closed for the next step; for Avid brakes you’ll need to clamp the hose with the red clamp provided. Slightly pull back on the syringe plunger to create a small vacuum then tap the side of the syringe. This step will de-gas the brake fluid, removing the absorbed air in the brake fluid (a great trick).

Now to the caliper lever. Attach the fitting provided from your manufacturer using a partially filled syringe (or bottle as shown) of brake fluid. Remove the bleeder port and then attach it to the bleeder port with the necessary fittings and hoses. If it’s a system like Magura/Shimano you will need to open the reservoir at this point. It may also be necessary to rotate the bike on your stand or rotate the brake lever to get the proper position to remove all the air. For Shimano and Magura you need to have the brake levers parallel to the ground.

To prevent the pistons from extending out of your caliper, use either a folded piece of cardboard or a specific tool from your manufacturer to prevent the pads from extending. Now squeeze the syringe (or bottle) at the caliper and crack open the bleeder screw using the correct wrench. Wait for fluid to flow into the brake lever. Look for bubbles at the syringe / bottle near the brake lever and tap the brake hose, caliper, and lever to shake free the air bubbles that may stick to the inside of your brake system (Magura is notorious for that). Once the fluid is entering the syringe is free of air bubbles (syringe at the brake lever), close the brake bleeder screw (brake caliper) and squeeze the brake lever a few times.

The lever should travel about halfway through its stroke. If it’s OK, close the bleeder screw port on the brake lever ( Magura / Shimano - cover the brake cap and reset the brake lever). Clean up any small spills and use some alcohol to clean off any spills on the brake lever and caliper.

Brake Pad Inspection

With the pads removed, inspect their thickness, looking for a minimum of 1mm of friction material or a total pad minimum thickness of 3mm ( Hayes/ Avid), or 2.5mm for Magura. While you are at it, inspect the spring and clips to ensure they have enough spring strength to retract the pads.

Brake pads that have friction material thicker than 1mm may not need replacing but should be cleaned and deglazed. Lay medium close coat sandpaper flat on a table and with a circular motion lightly rub the brake pad on the sand paper until the pad surface is flat and uniform. Before you reinstall the pads quickly check that the thickness is still greater than 3mm. If your brake pads are less than 3mm thick, install new pads.

Remember that your brake pad may have a return spring (placed between the pads), a cotter pin, or a bolt that holds the pads in place. Otherwise your system has a retaining spring on the back of your pad so make sure it clicks firmly into place and your pads are flush to the pistons.

Inspecting and Cleaning Rotors

The next task is to recondition the rotors by removing any glaze that may have accumulated on them. Remove the rotor if it is attached with T25 torx bolts or a Shimano centre lock. You can service the rotor while still attached to the wheel if you don’t have the tools to remove the rotor from the hub - just be careful to keep your fingers clear!

Fold medium sandpaper around a straight block to create a flat sanding surface. Rub the sand paper tangentially on both sides of the rotor’s braking surfaces. Now the rotor looks new and has cross hatching marks, or scratches at 33 degree angles from one another.

If necessary, reinstall the rotor and make sure you torque the bolts back at 55 – 60 inch pounds. When applying torque to the bolts, it should be done evenly and not in a circular pattern. Finally, clean the rotor off with a clean cloth and alcohol to remove any oil or fine metal particles. Replace your wheel and check the operation of the brakes.

Torque Inspection

Once you have the pads adjusted, the rotors and pads cleaned, and your cables lubricated, apply the correct amount of torque on your entire braking system, caliper bolts, caliper adapters, and the brake levers using a torque wrench and adjust if needed. Always follow your specific brake manufacturer’s recommended torque settings.

I hope this guide helps you with checking your brakes. This information will be great as a guide for those who already have a decent working knowledge of their bicycle and for those who are getting into repairing their own bike. Please have your owner’s manual handy for specific information regarding your brakes.

I would like to thank Gino Sena the owner of Cyclepath North York for the use of his shop and a few of his bikes for some of the photos in my article and also the good folks at Opus bikes, Hayes and Avid for some of the products that were featured here.

SRAM recently created a channel on YouTube with how-to videos showcasing SRAM, RockShox, Avid, and Truvativ service and installation. So far the most popular SRAM channel videos cover how to bleed Avid brakes, how to rebuild a RockShox Monarch shock, and how to change the SRAM X0/X9 chain. Most of the newer videos cover mountain bike components but there are a few road component videos in there as well.

There’s nothing like having an expert mountain bike mechanic walk you through an install for the first time and these videos are pretty much the next best thing. Now if SRAM could just come out with a robot to do the actual repairs to my bike

Disc brakes are now found on mountain bikes of nearly every price point and they are quickly becoming the standard. Of the multitude of types and brands, disc brakes fall simply into one of two categories: hydraulic or mechanical disc brakes. Mechanical disc brakes are generally cheaper (cost-wise), but not necessarily cheaper in quality. Both systems, as wonderful as they are, do need periodic inspections much like the brakes on your car. Seeing that a fraction of riders use a computer on their bike, I personally recommend inspecting your brakes in number of rides. I propose that you thoroughly inspect your brakes every 25th ride at the very least, or if you feel a loss in braking performance.

Here I will cover adjusting and servicing mechanical disc brakes including exchanging brake pads, servicing rotors, checking and servicing cables, and ensuring the proper functionality of the braking system. Note: the following photos may not be the same as your brake set-up but they will represent most of the systems out there.

Before your get started you need to have the correct tools for the job. The list below are the typical tools required for inspecting and servicing your mechanical disc brakes.

• 3, 4, 5mm Allen sockets
• T25 socket
• Brake cable housing cutters
• 120gt sand paper
• Needle nose pliers
• Alcohol wipes to clean rotor of finger prints
• Torque wrench

Brake lever inspection

One of the first things to inspect when you are servicing your mechanical disc brakes is the function of the brake lever and the calipers actuation lever. Apply and release the brake looking at the actuation arm (what the brake cable attaches to at the caliper). Check to see that it swings freely and does not hang up, that is, the arm returns to fully released position. If the arm does hang up, look for corrosion or possible obstructions. Usually some cleaning with penetrating oil followed by a thicker lubricant will loosen the arm.  Now, check the movement of the brake lever itself. Apply and release the lever, it should be loose. Put a bit of lube on the pivot pin to ensure proper operation of the lever. Finally, torque the cable anchor bolt to 55 in-lbs +/- 5 in-lbs.

Cable routing inspection

Next, inspect the brake cable and the routing of the cable. Look for any fraying (loose strands of the cable) or kinking of the cable or housing. Consider replacing the cables and housing if there are frays or kinks found, otherwise you will risk poor braking performance on your next ride.  Or, if the current brake cables have been on your bike for 2-3 years, it’s a good idea to replace them now.  I recommend a quality sealed cable system like those available from Gore, Jagwire, or Avid.

Removal and replacement of brake cables

When replacing the brake cables, measure the lengths of the old cable and housings to determine the proper cable routing and new lengths. Err on the long side when cutting cables as the cable length should not be too short. If the cables are too short they will limit the full range of steering. Be cautious by replacing one cable at a time since the lengths of the front and rear brake cables are very different. When cutting cables use proper cable cutters that leaves a nice flush finish to the cable ends. Always use new cable ferrules (the steel ends) to finish your job, even these little steel ends wear out.

To remove the old cable, first loosen the bolt that holds the cable in place on the brake caliper, and then pull the cable out from the housing. Loosen the adjustment barrels on the brake lever and squeeze the brake lever so that the cable is exposed enough to remove it from the slotted hinge in the brake lever.

Tighten the cable adjustment barrel about two threads from all the way in and insert the new cable. Route the cable in the same way the old cable was routed. Try lubing the housing with a small amount of synthetic oil to get the cables through the housing if needed (do not add oil if you are using Gore or Avid Flak Jackets). Finally, attach the cable to the brake caliper and torque the cable anchor bolt to 55 in-lbs +/-5 in-lbs.

Removal and inspection of brake pads

Before you get started on inspecting the brake pads, remove the wheel from the bike so you can better access the pads. Then remove the brake pads from the caliper to inspect their thickness and condition.  Look for a minimum thickness of 1mm and check the condition of the pad making sure they are not galled or contaminated with grease or oil.

There are various methods of removing your brake pads and some brake pads are removed by unscrewing a pin out of the caliper allowing the pads to drop out. Other brakes may have a small clip that holds the pad to the pistons, and still others are held in place with a magnetic piston. If you are unsure how to remove the pads, check your brake manufacturer’s owners manual or website for details. Usually the device that holds the pads in place is opposite the way the pads come out of the caliper.

Brake pads that are thicker than 1mm may not need to be replaced but should be cleaned and sanded. Lay medium close coat sand paper on a flat surface, and with a circular motion lightly rub the brake pad on the sand paper for a few seconds at a time or until the pad surface is flat and uniform. Before you reinstall the pads quickly check that the thickness is still greater than 1mm. If your brake pads are less than 1mm thick, install new pads.

Remember that your brake pad may have a return spring (placed between the pads), a cotter pin or a bolt that holds the pads in place. Otherwise, your system has a retaining spring on the back of your pad. Once you have finished servicing your pads or decided to replace them, you can install them into the caliper. One at a time, slide the pad back into the caliper paying attention to the alignment clips or holes that hold the retaining pin/clips. Then put in the retaining device in place (if you have a cotter pin remember to spread it out so the pin doesn’t work its way free). Finally, give the pads a tug to make sure they do not fall out.

Rotor inspection and cleaning

The next task is to recondition the rotors by removing any glaze that may have accumulated on them. Remove the rotor if it is attached with T25 torx bolts or a Shimano centre lock. You can service the rotor while still attached to the wheel if you don’t have the tools to remove the rotor from the hub, just be careful to keep your fingers clear.

Fold medium sandpaper around a straight block to create a flat sanding surface. Rub the sand paper tangentially on both sides of the rotor’s braking surfaces. Now the rotor should look new with cross hatching marks (small scratches) at 33 degree angles from one another.

If you removed the rotor from the wheel, reinstall the rotor and torque the bolts back at 55 – 60 inch-pounds. When applying torque to the bolts, it should be done evenly and not in a circular pattern. Last, clean the rotor off with a clean cloth and alcohol to remove any oil or fine metal particles. Replace your wheel and check the operation of the brakes.

Brake pad adjustment

Ideally the brake pad position should be set so that when the brake lever is depressed half way, the wheel should lock up. There should be very little space between the brake pads and rotor; this space should be about the thickness of a business card. This spacing can be adjusted on all mechanical disc brake systems using a dial or Allen key for the outboard pad (above, left) and adjusting cable tension for the inside pad. Some manufactures like Avid (above, right) have an inboard pad adjustment as well, again adjust the pad so that you have the space of a business card between them.

Get the proper spacing on the outboard brake pad by making adjustments with the dial or Allen key. If the spacing is too wide on the inboard brake pad, use the adjustment barrel either on the caliper or the brake lever to take up the slack. A small turn of the adjustment barrel surprisingly changes the brake lever travel a lot.

Torque inspection

Once you have the pads adjusted, the rotors and pads cleaned, and your cables lubricated, check the amount of torque on your entire braking system, particularly the caliper bolts, caliper adapters, and the brake levers. Remember to always follow your specific brake manufacturer’s recommended torque settings. Use a torque wrench to make any needed adjustments.

Typical torque values:
International standard (I.S.) caliper mount bolts are 110 in-lbs +/- 10 in-lbs (M6 x 18.5mm);
Post mount caliper mount bolts  are 80 - 90 in-lbs (Avid)

I hope this guide helps you with checking your brakes. This information will be great as a guide for those who already have a decent working knowledge of their bicycle and for those who are getting into repairing your own bike. Please have your owners manual handy for specific information regarding your brakes.

I would like to thank Gino Sena the owner of Cyclepath Northyork for the use of his shop and a few of his bikes for some of the photos in this article, also the folks at Hayes for some of the products that were featured here. Check back here and in the forums for more how to articles. Next up: brake servicing tips for hydraulic MTB brakes.

One thing that can ruin a mountain bike ride very quickly is a mechanical breakdown on the trail. On your long and lonely walk back to the trailhead you’ll have plenty of time to consider this: a quick, regular bike maintenance check might have prevented your on-trail breakdown. Of course some breakdowns just aren’t avoidable so in a follow-up post I will talk about some things you should consider packing in your hydration pack just in case.

To make sure you don’t walk out on your next MTB adventure I recommend inspecting your rig weekly or bi-weekly. Most of the checks discussed below require a multi-tool and torque wrench at a minimum but you may want to consider a bike-specific tool kit as well.  For those of you who have more carbon fiber than an F1 team, pull out your torque wrench AND the torque tables that are usually included with your bike - cracked carbon tubes will make a grown man cry!

I like to start on one end (usually the front) and work to the back of the bike to make sure I don’t miss anything. Here’s the 13-part checklist I use in my weekly maintenance routine:

1. Check the bolts that hold the handlebar to the stem. If there are 4 of them tighten them in an alternating crisscross pattern and make sure that the gap between the bar and stem is uniform. Be sure to check the exact torque amount for your bar, particularly if you’re rockin’ carbon bars up front. For example this Race Face bar wants 55- 65 in/lbs.

2. Check the torque on your steering tube clamp bolts - for my tube clamp I use 65-70 in/lbs. Also check to see if your steering is straight.

3. Grab hold of your brake levers and shifter pods and see if they securely attached to your bars. Also make sure that the brake lever, when applied, does not touch the handle bar. Check each shifter pod for excessive dirt and correct operation. As always, check your brake lever and shifter manufacturer’s website for proper torque settings.

4. Take a look at your fork and fork seals and make sure the fork is clean and there are no leaks. Make sure the seals are in good condition and that they have not worked their way loose from the fork lowers. Jounce the fork a few times to make sure it is working properly and no funny noises are heard. Also check to see that the settings (air pressure, etc.) on your fork are correct for your body weight and riding style.

5. Moving down to what I consider the most important part on a mountain bike: the brakes. I don’t care how good a bike is, if the brakes don’t work well the whole bike won’t ride well. I had a few times when brakes failed me and well - let’s just say that was a hard way to learn my lesson. Make sure that the bolts that hold the caliper are torqued to the correct amount. Hayes wants them torqued to 110 in/lb for brakes that have a mounting bracket and for post mounts you torque them to 80-85 in/lbs. While you’re at it check the torque on bolts that hold the rotor in place. They are torqued at 55-80 in/lbs.

6. If you have a full suspension bike it’s time to check the pivots and bolts for correct torque. What most people don’t realize is that many of those bolts are alloy or other materials and can be permanently damaged when too much force is applied to them so be careful here and use a torque wrench.

7. Check the rear damper for correct sag and check for leaks as well.  Also check the bolts that hold the damper in place for correct torque. To check for sag first set the ‘O’ ring on the shock all the way to the top and then sit on the bike gently - do not bounce. Get off the bike and measure the distance from the ‘O’ ring to the air sleeve. If your bike has literature that tells you the distance then go by that; otherwise a rule of thumb would be 20 – 30% sag for all-mountain riding and 10 – 20% for XC riding. Use your high pressure pump to add air to the air chamber unit you reach the correct sag value. Always remember settings are a personal thing so set them to your liking for the terrain you’ll be riding.

8. Shift the front derailleur into the middle ring and then check the spacing between the cage and the top ring - it should be no more than 4mm and no less than 2mm. Also double check that the derailleur cage is parallel with the chain rings. Check that there is no crud like leaves or small twigs that could stop the front derailleur from functioning.

9. Ok, now we’re at the second most important part on the bike: the rear derailleur. Check to see that the rear derailleur and chain is cleaned and oiled in the pivot points and that the stops are correct and haven’t been moved. Run the bike through each gear to make sure each one shifts crisply. If your shifting isn’t smooth and you don’t know how to make adjustments you can use the image below as a guide. Check to make sure that the main pivot bolt is torqued, 55-65 in/lbs.

I am using 3rd from the high side as a model.  Basically look at the driveline from behind and make sure that the chainline is straight . If the upper pulley is a bit to the right wanting to up shift then you need to tighten the cable. If the upper pulley is to far to the left it will want to down shift you need to slacken the cable.

10. Check the chain for any bent links as well as stiff links. If the chain is bent it is usually best to get a new one. See this post for more on changing your a rear cassette and chain.

11. Check your cassette for bent teeth and wear. If the teeth begin to look like sharks teeth its time to get a new cassette. It may also be a good time for an upgrade. Pictured above is the Sram 990 cassette with 991 chain - good quality without breaking the bank.

12. Check the torque on the rear brake caliper bolts just like you did on the front wheel. The mounting bracket is torqued to the frame at  approximately 110 in/lbs and the caliper at about the same (doublecheck your manufacturer’s torque guide).

Check the amount of brake material that is left in the brakes pads as well. If it looks like you have less than 1mm, time to change them. Less than 1mm is considered unsafe.

13. Finally check the torque on the 6 bolts that hold attach your brake rotors to your wheels. If you have Shimano center lock you need to remove the wheel and use the special tool for that.  The 6 bolts are torqued at 55-80 in/lbs.

Well folks I hope this helps you enjoy more riding and less walking. Just like an automobile we need to keep up with our bikes and maintain them. Hope this guide helps keep you from walking out.

Whether you’re on the trail or in your driveway, it’s no big deal to fix a flat mountain bike tire. In the ideal situation, all you need is a pump, tire levers, and a new tube.

If your tire still has some air pressure left in it, release the air by pressing in on the tire valve. Depending on the type of valve your tire has, you may need to unscrew the pressure release or use your fingernail to press the release valve.

Next, pull the tire away from the rim. You may need to use your tire lever to get the tire started, once it’s out you can trace around the rim to quickly remove one side of the tire. Repeat the process for the other side of the tire wall. Don’t forget to remove the screw locking ring if your tubes have one.

Remove the tire and tube from the rim. Check the rim to make sure there isn’t anything ganky on the rim that could have caused your flat. Pay particular attention to the rim tape covering spoke connections inside the rim and replace as necessary. Run your hand through the tire itself to check for thorns or other sharp objects. If something causes you to bleed there’s a good chance that it’ll pierce your tire as well.

Now you’re ready to start putting things back together. Inflate your new tube with just enough air to give it some shape. This will help you place it in the tire easily. Place the tube completely inside the tire like a hot dog in a bun. Find the valve hole on your wheel and place the valve stem in the hole.

Start working one side of the tire onto the rim. You should be able to use your hands for most of it, once you’ve made your way around most of the tire you may need to use your levers to pop the tire wall bead inside the rim. Repeat for the other side (note: the second side may be more difficult than the first, especially for tight fitting tires).

Before you begin inflating your tire it’s important to make sure the tube isn’t pinched between the rim and the tire (called a pinch flat). Start at a known point on the tire (I usually start at the valve) and work your way around the tire looking for pinches. When you get back to your start point, flip the tire and check the other side all the way around.

Now you’re ready for the fun part: pumping. Inflate your tire to a reasonable pressure. My pump has a gauge that’s marked for different types of bike tires. It recommends 30-60 psi for mountain bike tires but it’s really up to you. If you like a squishy ride or you like to use your tires as a poor man’s suspension, keep the pressure low. If you’re riding hardpack you may want to go for a higher pressure which will help you go faster. I personally prefer staying at the high end of the range because I’ve found that I get fewer flats on the trail at higher pressures.

This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket. With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain. Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools. A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

a crank-puller,

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key. This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller. This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle. Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

NOTE: This bike is equipped with a chainguide. For our purposes here, I’ll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

NOTE: On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so “lefty-loosey, righty-tighty” will not work here. This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power! Keep that in mind, so if you’re trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won’t budge, try turning it the other way. There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

There! You’re done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process. Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE! When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten! Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs. Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.