When I started riding back in the early 1990s, there was basically just one flavor of mountain biking but today MTB categories can get a little confusing. I found this helpful chart over on the Turner website and I think it does a good job illustrating some of the divisions you’ll find in mountain biking find today. The arrows and text below the chart were added for the purposes of this post.

Right off the bat you can see the spectrum of riding from XC to Downhill and everything in between. Notice how the plot gets higher and more jagged as you move to the right, representing technical difficulty (not necessarily climbing or aerobic difficulty). It’s also cool to think of this as a progression chart - beginners can move from XC to AM and beyond as skills improve.

I really like how this chart can be used to show ranges rather than discreet points along the spectrum. In this particular chart, the shaded green area represents recommend usage for the Turner 5.Spot. Notice how it isn’t just a Trail or All Mountain bike. Based on the geometry and travel (5.5″ rear) this bike works well for XC, Trail, and AM riding.

The spectrum approach is also helpful for classifying riders. Most of us enjoy a variety of terrain and saying someone is strictly a Freerider or Downhiller usually doesn’t tell the whole story.

But wait, this chart has one more trick up its sleeve! Most mountain bike trails themselves can’t be readily classified into one type or another. A mellow XC trail may have 5 foot drops in places or even a freeride area that’s 5 miles into the trail. Other trails may have short bursts of All-Mountain style terrain with XC-type fireroads connecting sections. In fact I imagine some trails could cover the entire spectrum from XC to Downhill while others fit more neatly into a single category.

Some generalities about mountain bikes can be made from this chart and I’ve added arrows describing just a few trends you can expect to see when purchasing a new mountain bike. As you move from left to right, travel (front and rear) should increase while weight will follow roughly the same trend. Price, on the other hand, isn’t so easy to classify. For example, remember this $7,000 XC hardtail from Interbike? Finding a DH bike that costs half that amount wouldn’t be too hard (nor would finding a DH bike costing 50% more).

Now, if it were possible to create a mountain bike that could cover the entire chart from XC to DH that would be the holy grail. Maybe the Cannondale Simon will deliver on that dream one day

Not only does Manitou make a decent MTB fork, but you have to check out Manitou’s line-up of ISX dampers. I was lucky enough to get my hands on an ISX-6 and I must say it shows some promise to be a great damper. Out of the box it has all the things I need and want in a damper and none of the things I don’t need - kinda like it was custom made for me! Anyhow, the Manitou ISX-6 (MSRP $609) is made for those who fall into the all-mountain to gravity range of riders where weight is not too much of an issue (my 190 x 50mm unit weighs 418grams with spacers). Even at that weight it’s still as light if not lighter than some of its direct competitors.

The Manitou ISX-6 rear shock comes with independent high and low speed compression dampening adjustments, rebound adjustment, volume control (which controls spring rate near the end of travel), and spring rate (air pressure). These are all the controls you need for everything from stuttery, rutted, rocky trails to big drops that would normally cause your bike’s rear end to bottom out.

Installing this unit on the bike really should be done by a person who knows what they are doing, mainly because you need to know which adapters are required for your bike (all shocks are sold without adapters). Once you or your mechanic install the correct mounting hardware, you’re ready to get busy setting up the damper.

First things first: set the sag by following the instructions supplied with the shock. The instructions are very specific and require you to set the shock by adding air into the reservoir first (red cap). Pump that side up to at least 150psi to start. Next, make sure the high and low speed circuits are fully open as you add air into the main chamber. Adjust sag by adding or taking away pressure from the main air spring (black cap). Although this part sounds complicated, Manitou includes a handy measurement chart for dialing sag in exactly. Serious riders know that sag measurement is critical for optimizing travel path and positioning and once you have it dialed in correctly, it’s nirvana.

After setting the sag I worked on adjusting compression. To be honest I found the compression settings a bit difficult - I ended up with the high speed compression (black knob) 3 clicks from full on and then fiddled with the low speed compression (red knob) only. My goal in setting high speed compression is to find the point where coming off a drop won’t cause the wheel to blow through its travel too quickly. For the low speed compression setting, I found the point where there was as little pedal bob as possible when sitting and pedaling.

Once the compression was set, I worked on rebound (blue knob) to find the point where bumps don’t buck me off the saddle. During ride one I played with the rebound - two clicks +/- here and there - until I found the perfect setting. With the ISX-6 dialed in I could launch off drops with a controlled compression and even return without overshooting or bouncing too much.

The final control is the volume control which controls the shock at the end of its stroke. There are four settings and I ended up at the 3rd setting which ramps up spring rate for the 6+ foot drops I was taking.

On the trails I felt confident with the ISX-6 controlling the rear suspension. I found on fast descents and hitting multiple roots and drops that the rear end of the bike was far more stable than with my previous shock.

At this point I’d like to pause and offer a brief physics lesson. If you consider the saddle as a level or a gauge of how your bike is tracking, when the saddle goes up on a bump this means the suspension is working but not fast enough (my old shock did this). The transfer of energy is not complete and the wheel is following the disturbance and forcing the bike to move instead than the shock. This can also be an indicator that you are near the limit of the shock’s travel.

With the ISX-6 I noticed far less bike movement and the saddle was more stable than with my previous set-up. This made a big difference in the overall ride quality for me - more plush, yet fully under control without that wallowy feeling.

Taking the ISX-6 to the limit, I hit a few of my favorite rock garden waterfalls. These sections are 50 foot long steep descents of just rock and trees where you have to change direction at least 4 times as you thread yourself between some large trunks. This can be a daunting task, but with the help of superb ISX-6 enabled tracking in the rear it was a piece of cake with tons of control. These sections are great at measuring wheel control and the ISX-6 passed with flying colors!

All in all, the ISX-6 is a decent shock with great small and large bump compliance. It’s light enough for long leg trail bikes and tough enough to take bigger hits and thread rough terrain.  Many thanks to the folks at Manitou for tuning tips to unlock this shock’s potential!

Cheers.

If you’re in the hunt for a great All Mountain bike tire at a decent price, look no further than the Prowler MX from WTB ($50 MSRP). Aggressive, talon-like knobs will help you navigate the trail like a jungle cat so you can catch even the fastest prey!

Installing these tires on my Easton Havoc wheels was a snap and required just a few minutes. I did myself a favor and used heavy duty tubes along with some talcum powder to improve performance and reduce friction in the tire. I inflated the tires to 40 psi and was off to the trails!

I wanted to hit as much varied terrain as I could since WTB says this tire can handle wet to dry terrain as well as loose to rough. Fortunately Kelso and Blue Mountain have plenty of both.

On hard packed surfaces the Prowler MX tires did fairly well and didn’t vibrate too much. Both tires had decent traction and didn’t feel squirmy like other aggressively patterned tires I’ve ridden. Rolling efficiency seemed decent and I didn’t feel like I had to labor too much to maintain my speed.

Under climbing and braking the Prowlers were great and did not lock up or slip unexpectedly. Even when braking on very hard surfaces such as rock and hard roots the tires did a good job stopping without sliding. At times when the tires did lock up, they tended to remain in line - no wandering - thanks to the pronounced transition knobs. On climbs the ramped knobs kept the tread firm on the ground without slipping. Extra siping (small grooves) on the knobs adds even more edges for an overall higher level of grip.

I guess the shining point on the Prowler MX tire is its ability to take corners in a variety of conditions. I loved the way these tires gripped in softer, dusty trails. When the terrain got technical, tight, and twisty - these tires just kept hanging on and worked exceedingly well. I also loved this tire’s ability to bite down on the fallen log runs without slipping (that is a big plus for me at least). The corner knobs on Prowler MX tires have almost double the number of blocks and are also siped to increase gripping.

Overall, the Prowler MX is a great tire that will really boost your riding performance and enjoyment. If you haven’t tried a set now may be the time!

My overall impressions:

8 out of 10 for climbing
8 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
9 out of 10 for loose conditions
8 out of 10 for hardpack
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specs from WTB:

Durometer 53a  DNA rubber
GMA 54/60
Usage: All Mountain / Freeride
Conditions: Wet to dry / Loose to Rough
Size: 2.3″
Weight: 869grams

A little while back a few people were looking for bash guard recommendations in the forums and today I have a great product to tell you about. The e*13 Turbocharger ($49.95 MSRP) is tough as nails and light as hell which makes this a great choice for any freeride or DH rider. e*13 claims the Turbocharger is both the lightest and strongest bash guard ever made - who said you can’t have it all?

I guess you could call the e*thirteen Turbocharger a “next generation” bash guard. Typically bash guards were solid pieces of plastic that were bolted to your crank in place of the outer ring on your chain set. In the old days it wasn’t uncommon to see these units weighing over 200 grams, which, to many people (myself included), was a little too heavy to be worth the trouble. My Turbocharger officially weighs in at 86 grams (for the 36t model) which is far better than my previous 300 gram bash guard. Much of the weight reduction comes a patent-pending design that removes excess material that doesn’t directly provide strength to the guard.

To install one of these to your bike you’ll need to know what size you need, which is a simple matter of counting the number of teeth you middle chain ring has (it should be either 32, 36, 0r 40). If you have a middle chain ring with 32T you would get the 36T bash guard. If you have 36T to 40T get the larger size of 40T. Choose from either black or white to match your ride.

Depending on your crank configuration you may also need to order long chain ring bolts due to the thicker bash guard (sold separately). If your bolts just thread on with one or two turns that is not enough and you need those longer bolts - this is not something you want to fly off on the trail! Installing the bash guard is super simple and can be done using either a 5 or 6mm allen key. Remove the outer ring and install the bash guard, making sure you align the reliefs of the bash guard with the crank arms. The e*13 sports captured aluminum inserts to prevent crushing due to over tightening which will definitely save heartache for many overzealous home mechanics.

Hitting the trails with the e*thirteen Turbocharger was awesome. I lost 200 grams on my bike and gained a nice strong bash guard that can take a beating on the trails at Kelso without slowing me down. Actually the Turbocharger took repeated beatings and smashes on logs and rocks without cracking or even complaining. Riding along I didn’t get any creaking or grinding which proves this is a high quality guard. Aside from protecting from over tightening, the aluminum inserts also seem to discourage hit-induced crushing and cracking that may cause movement over time.

I would have to say that the e13 Turbocharger bash guard is a great addition to the e*13 line up. If you’re out to get a high quality bash guard, this is the one to get. It’s lightweight, strong, and features dual crank arm reliefs just in case you manage to crack it - I dare anyone to try!

More Turbocharger details are available at e13components.com. A quick thanks to the folks at e*13 for the chance at testing out the new Turbocharger. Cheers!

This review is for those who spend all their time pointing their bikes down hill; for those who live for the double diamond; and for anyone who is confident at the sight of mega gnarly rock strewn terrain. Yeah, that’s right, this is for the crazy people who call themselves downhillers or freeriders.

Schwalbe just introduced a new dry tire, the Wicked Will ($83.55 MSRP) for riders who love to toss their bikes down the nastiest terrain you can imagine. The new “Curve Claw” blocks on the sides of the tread produce a tremendous amount of cornering grip and the low block design makes this a very fast rolling tire. The Wicked Will tire is perfect for those who find themselves bombing down high speed runs with tight and twisty hardpack berms.

These heavy weight tires (1370grams each!) are clearly designed to be ridden downhill and looking at them they’d be right at home on a dirt bike. Installing the Wicked Wills took 3 tire irons and a bit more work than usual due to the tight fit, two ply construction, and stiff side walls. I added a little soapy water to the sidewalls to seat the beads perfectly on the rim and went with 35 psi in the front and rear. As always, follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing any tires and make adjustments for your own preferences. Now for the fun part!

Tracking down the slopes with the Wicked Wills was great thanks to the extra mass of the tire which helped me keep the bike pointing in the right direction. Pedaling hard on the flats, these tires didn’t skip a beat and kept me moving to the next section without slowing my momentum or shimmying side to side.

Taking the Schwalbe hard into corners was awesome - I couldn`t believe the amount of extra traction that these tires delivered compared to the previous set that I had on! Coming off the corners I almost forgot that I needed to slow for upcoming technical trail features (TTFs). I really appreciated the stability the Wicked Will tires offered as they minimized unwanted side to side movement and kept my steering on track.

Under braking the tires held up well and did not lock up unexpectedly. Even when braking on very hard surfaces such as rock and hard roots the tires did well at stopping without slipping too much. On the rare occasions when the tire did start to slip, the tire never moved sideways. Rather it just locked and remained on line.

The Wicked Will is a great DH-specific tire that will get you down any slope with ease. The super tough sidewalls help prevent snake bites due to bashes from rocks or logs (I did lots of that on the slopes) and the slipped knobs and curve claw blocks on the sidewalls will keep you on your line with laser-like precision. If you give these tires a shot you won’t be disappointed!

A big shout out to the folks at SunRingle for the STR8 Track wheels, and the folks at Schwalbe for the chance to give these tires a serious test run.

My overall rating:

5 out of 10 for climbing
9 out of 10 for cornering
8 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
7 out of 10 for loose condidtion
10 out of 10 for hardpack
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specifications from Schwalbe:

• Downhill, Double Casing, Wire Bead
• 26 x 2.50 only
• Gooey Gluey compound
• 1370 grams
• 20 - 50 psi
• 2 x 67 EPI (TPI)

The Fox Talas 36 RC2 fork is just the ticket for those who like to travel through the air with the greatest of ease while avoiding going splat upon landing. Fox has revamped its entire product line for 2010 and I just had to try the latest arrival: the Fox TALAS 36 RC2 (now with FIT damper). This fork is impressively stout, more adjustable than a NASCAR, and lightweight for its class (less than five pounds). How did Fox manage to cram so many features into such a lightweight package? Well, for starters the new FIT damper reduces the amount of oil required which in turn reduces the fork’s weight. FIT technology also eliminates the chance of oil aeration (turning from fluid to foam) which translates into better control throughout your ride.

Installation

Seeing that this fork is not cheap, do not attempt to install this one unless you have all the tools handy and are competent enough for the task. Let’s face it: when a bike part costs more than a thousand dollars it’s not something you want to make a mistake on unless you’re Donald Trump (and I’m guessing he doesn’t do his own MTB work). Now, having said that, once the steering tube and star nut are installed, the rest of the installation is actually a snap. Just make sure you have enough brake hose for full travel and the correct amount of load on the quick release skewers at the axle.  Always follow the recommendations on the included interactive installation CD when setting the sag and use the table provided by Fox to set the correct pressure for your weight. Above all, remember to weigh yourself in full gear with water, otherwise you will be off and will need to add more pressure later.

Before setting up this fork I strongly recommend riding around a parking lot or on the street while jouncing the fork for a while to get all the fluids where they need to be.  This one step I never skip - and keep in mind the “showroom push down” doesn’t cut it.

Setup

After bouncing around for a bit to get all the fluids well circulated I got down to business setting up my fork. The TALAS has four settings: air pressure (spring rate), low speed compression, rebound, and high speed compression. The images below show the controls for the TALAS  rebound, high speed and low speed compression and finally the height control.

Sag is controlled via air pressure and is the first thing that needs to be set. Just follow the included CD instructions on selecting a starting pressure and you should be well within the ball park. This fork allows you to roll with either 100, 130, or 160mm of travel so I chose to use the fork’s full 160mm length for my sag measurement. Fox recommends a 20% sag which translates into 32mm at a 160mm length.

Low speed compression is set using the small blue knob and stacked dials on the right fork leg (they are covered with a black screw cap). When setting the low speed compression you’re looking for the point where you can hit the brakes or accelerate without having the bike pitch excessively. Ride hard and hit the brakes, noting how much the bike pitches forward. You don’t want too much movement but at the same time you don’t want the fork to stay rigid. Ultimately you need the fork to follow the trail and thankfully this setting can be tweaked both on and off the trail.

Rebound is the next setting to manipulate and you also can do this one the trail. Here you’re looking for a controlled return to ride height after the fork compresses. You don’t want the fork to feel like it’s tossing you off the bike on return (too little rebound) nor do you want the fork to come up so fast that it feels like the fork is losing travel over multiple bumps (too much rebound).

For me the high speed compression (big blue knob) setting was a bit more challenging and I ended up using more of a “seat of the pants” approach to get it dialed in. Most riders will probably only need to set this once after finding a satisfactory amount of control but those who live and breathe traveling through the air will probably want to play with this setting more often. Adjust your high speed compression setting so the fork doesn’t blow through its entire travel too quickly when taking a big hit. Keep adding damping until you have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact.

On the trails with the TALAS 36

On rutted, rooty trails the fork followed the trail as if my tire was glued to the ground.  During my test rides there was never an instant when I felt the fork lose control over the front wheel. Granted, I was using a fairly lightweight but strong wheel set-up (Eskar S-works 2.3 and Sun-Ringle STR8 Track wheels), but clearly the fork took control and managed the wheel nicely over rutted braking areas without a single complaint.

Flying over larger jumps, drop downs, and waterfall rock gardens I felt very confident and in full control of the bike. The 160mm fork with its 36mm stanchions and the 20mm quick-release really kept everything aligned upon landing and soaked up jumps as if they were just bumps. Nailing every jump without having the front end want to bury itself in the dirt or push me off the bars was just fantastic. I love a fork that can do that!

Climbing with the TALAS is what I really liked because I could go from 160mm to 130mm to 100mm in just two clicks without having to remove a glove. This feature is a must for those who intend to toss this fork on an all-mountain or trail rig. At 160mm travel, climbing can be a bit tough and yes the steering will wander a touch (put a wider bar on and this is a non-issue). But turn the travel down to 130mm or even 100mm and you’ll have a steeper head angle and your weight will be better distributed over the bars - now you’re climbing with the rest of the group. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying you will be as efficient as your buddy on his XC rig, but at least you can keep up!

Descending with this fork on a few ski runs at Blue Mountain, ON was ridiculously fun - I just cranked the fork up to its full travel (160mm) and went. At speed with this fork I felt like I was on rails with the added comfort of total control when landing jumps. I also found I didn’t need to add steering corrections when I hit patches of rocks or roots. Going fast and flying over doubles is what this fork lives to do.

Final notes on the TALAS

This fork rocks and Fox gives you everything you could possibly want in a lightweight, neat package. Not only do you get a highly capable fork that is very light for its size and travel but you also get a fork that can be dialed in precisely for any riding style. Overall this is a great buy so give your LBS a shout to see if you can get a test ride on a Fox TALAS 36 RC2 - I’m betting you won’t be disappointed. Just don’t let sticker shock deter you - in mountain biking you almost always get what you pay for!

Cheers

How I Rate the Fox TALAS 36 RC2

Specifications from Fox:
WEIGHT (1 1/8″ steerer): 4.99 lbs (2.26 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ straight steerer): 4.90 lbs (2.22 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ taper steerer): 4.95 lbs (2.25 kg)
TRAVEL: 6.3 inches (160 mm) TALAS travel adjust 160-130-100
ADJUSTMENTS: Low speed compression, High speed compression, Travel (160-130-100mm), Air spring pressure, Rebound
LOWER LEG: 20QR thru-axle system; post-style disc brake mounting
STEERER: Standard: 1 1/8″, Optional: 1.5″ or 1.5″ Taper
SPRING: Air
FORK COLOR: Titanium
INTENDED USE: DH, FR, AM

Just a quick thanks to the good folks at Fox Racing Shox’s for the TALAS fork and Opus Bikes for their great bikes that they produce.

SUNringlé has done it again, updating and improving the STR8 Track wheel set for those who like to spend time flying through the air as part of their regular riding routine. The STR8 Track wheel set (MSRP $560.00) is just as at home on tight rocky singletrack as it is landing 7 foot+ drops. Having been tested by extreme riders like Cedric Graica you can be sure these wheels can take on anything your trails can deliver. The STR8 Track wheels are not to be confused with a freeride wheel set which would be a little beefier, but for what these have been designed for (all-mountain, heavy trail use), they fit the bill nicely with room to play.

I decided to install these wheels on my 5.5 rig with a Manitou Minute 20mm front fork, and after torquing new disks and installing tires and a fresh cassette, I was off to the trails. For the test ride I stuck with my usual tires (Eskar S-works 2.3) since I already know how the tires behave and I can concentrate on the wheel itself. At 1984 grams per set these are just a touch lighter than the Mavic Crossline (2045g) wheel set I tested last month, however the STR8 Track wheels are 2mm wider and feel more rigid than the Mavic Set. The rigid feeling on these wheels is due to the 32 Wheelsmith DB14 double butted steel spokes plus a much welcomed wider and deeper rim.  Once you  get moving it’s hard to want to stop (even the camera man had a hard time catching me). These wheel are just too much fun!

A great thing I noticed while testing the STR8 Track wheels on the trail is the smoothness of the wheel set - they roll great and do not flex laterally even when tossed into a high G bank turn. Another welcomed attribute is the relatively quiet but positive engagement of the freehub. I have found these wheels light and responsive enough and they work well traveling over skinnies and obstacles without hesitating to change direction quickly. The lacing of the spokes results in great control while the optimized spoke tension helps take the edge off impact when take big hits.

Overall I have to say the SUNringlé STR8 Track wheels are worth every penny - hit your local bike shop and take a look at these, especially if you’re on the north side of 200lbs. Being at that weight myself, (with full gear and water) I know that finding a set of wheels that will withstand serious trail abuse can be difficult. But look no further, these fit the bill and at their cost you can afford a new set of your favorite rubber as well!

Now the Official information from SUNringlé:

Use: All Mountain / Disc
Front Hub: 32 Hole Sunringlé Jumping Flea (Black)
Rear Hub: 32 Hole Sunringlé Dirty Flea (Black)
Rim: Black anodized welded Equalizer, Width: 31mm Disk brake only
Spokes: Wheelsmith DB 14 double butted spokes - black finish
Nipples: Wheelsmith alloy black
Lacing: 3 Cross (Fr/ Rr)
Weight: 1984g

Cheers folks - and remember to keep the rubber side down! Avoid the big trees - they don’t move!

Imagine this: you’re in the groove, feeling the flow of the trail, and you come to a steep downhill section. If you’re like me, instead of launching straight into it you probably stop, adjust your seatpost, and kill the flow before you get to the best part. If this sounds familiar, Crank Brothers should be your new best friend. They say you can’t buy your friends but if you have $285 (MSRP) the Crank Brothers Joplin R will be your convenient, ride enhancing trail buddy. The post is available in only two sizes 30.9 and 31.6 so for now this great post is limited to those frame seatpost sizes (the Joplin R isn’t friends with just anyone).

When you receive the Joplin, it comes beautifully packaged - I almost didn’t want to remove it and actually considered having it framed. All kidding aside it came well packaged with no chance of  shipping damage and included everything I needed minus a few tie wraps. Installing it was very easy but there are a few things you should consider doing first before you go and stuff the seat post in your frame.

Check the remote lever to see if it actually fits on your bar - I had a hard time fitting the remote on my RaceFace Next SL carbon bar. I have heard from others that installation may be difficult on some Easton Carbon bars as well, so be sure to confirm it fits before you plunk down the cash. If all is good then installation is a snap - just keep the installation instructions handy during assembly.

Once you install the post and run the cable  (you may need to shorten it as necessary), compress your suspension to see if the cable will rub on any linkages.  Make sure you place the nylon tubing on the exposed cable that runs to the actuation lever and visually inspect that you have clearance between the actuation lever and the saddle (have someone sit on the saddle or place a weight). You may have to adjust your seat angle a bit.

I set the remote on the left hand side, seeing that I use that hand less and other than grabbing the front brake when I ride I rarely use the front derailleur. So it makes sense to have the Joplin on my left.

On the trails, the old scenario was to come to a steep descent, stop and dismount, lower the seat post, remount the bike, roll back a bit, then go down. Talk about harshing the flow. But no longer - now when I know there is a steep descent I just actuate the lever, sit on the seat to lower it, release the lever, and ta-da - down it stays, and down I go. When I clear the steep descent, a pull of the remote brings the seat back up to the original seat height. I can then continue pedaling efficiently at the correct ride height. To that end the Joplin is flawless and great - I couldn’t ask for a better solution. The seat post does not creak and the seat stays set at whatever height that I set it at.

After a few rides I did notice one thing that put a slight damper on this otherwise excellently engineered seat post. I noticed that the seat developed a bit of play which allowed the seat to wiggle a small amount (for some people this could be an issue). After visiting the Crank Brothers website they mentioned that it is normal to have some play and that anything less that 10mm movement is acceptable.  The post that I am testing presently has 6mm movement.

My final two cents worth:

The Joplin R is a great seatpost which will totally change the way you ride and the amount of fun you will have on the trails - it inspires confidence and enhances rider control . If you don’t sweat the details and you do maintain this post, it will be a great upgrade. The downside is that the post has a bit of play and unfortunately the Joplin at present only comes in two sizes: 30.9mm and 31.6mm.

Get out there and kick it.

Cheers.

The Mavic Crossline wheelset ($399.00 MSRP) is new for 2009. Mavic released these wheels for those of us who are on a budget but want a true Enduro wheelset. You can buy the wheels as a set or individually but your choice of colors is limited to black, black, or black (though they do have some cool new rim graphics). The wheels come with almost everything you need - a quick release skewer for the rear, rim tape for both wheels, and even a special tool for adjusting the rear hub bearings. Unfortunately the Crossline wheelset doesn’t come with a front quick release so you’ll need to pick up an adapter that sells for about $12 to convert to a 9mm configuration.

Some highlights of the Crossline wheels:

Tough 21mm internal wide rim
28 straight pull, steel spokes
Oversized hubs with large cartridge bearings
A new ITS-4 freewheel. Mavic uses an entirely new transmission with 4 pawls and 4 bearings  to reduce the rotation of the wheel before it engages from 17 degrees down to 7.
Weight: 2045 grams per pair - front wheel: 965 grams, rear wheel: 1080 grams
Disc brake specific profile: no braking surface on the rims
Pinned rim joints
6106 Aluminum
8.5 mm valve hole diameter
QRM+ bearings
Aluminum front and rear axle
Oversized aluminum front and rear bodies
20×92mm front axle (adapters needed)
12×135mm rear axle

I was stoked to try these puppies out on the trails at Kelso Conservation area (one of the stops on the O-Cup DH circuit) and I tried to find some really rough stuff just to see how rugged these wheels really are. Compared to the regular wheel set that I usually ride these were a blast. The first thing I noticed with the Mavic Crosslines is the different sound the freehub makes compared to older versions of Mavic’s product line-up. I was also pleased when pedaling from a stop - there is virtually instant engagement of the gears with little movement of the crank before the cassette grabs the wheel (which is great for very slow speeds when you need to hammer over a log, ride a skinny or slam through a rock garden). I felt very little flex when cornering, even while nailing birms and switchbacks. These wheels track very well and inspire confidence, felling solid beneath the bike.

Although Mavic advertises these as Freeride wheels I would have to call them “light” Freeride/Enduro wheels.  After a few drops (5′ to 7′), table tops, step ups, and rock gardens on an extreme singletrack run I felt pretty confident about the wheels. Despite the thrashing the Crosslines held true with no signs of problems, other than a sight ding (my bad for under-inflating my tires).

The steel spokes on the Mavic Crosslines (and Freeride/Enduro/All-Mountain wheels in general) are a great choice because steel spokes have a higher tolerance for abrasion and will hold up to branches, rocks, and an occasional dropped chain (I don’t use a chain retention device). On this test I even caught a large branch in my rear wheel which ripped the derailleur off without damaging a single spoke - talk about tough!

Overall these wheels are well worth the coin, and I would recommend these to anyone, even to those of us who are on the heavy side. In a time when everyone is watching their well earned dollar these wheels won’t break the bank and are cheap enough that if you do break them you won’t have to give up an arm or a leg to replace them (you probably broke an arm or leg when you broke your wheel anyway so you won’t want to give up another!).

Cheers… Now get outside and hit the trails!

Photo courtesy of Doug LePage via Revelstoke Times Review.

Mountain biker Sam Brown, who was featured in the New World Disorder 3 film, died in a Spokane, WA jail two weeks ago after being arrested for piloting a helicopter filled with 150 kilos of marijuana across the US/Canadian border. At this point the cause of death is still inconclusive and our prayers go out to Sam’s friends and family during this emotional time.

Sam inspired a ton of mountain bikers and the article I read points to tribute forum threads on some of the Canadian mountain bike websites as evidence of the positive impact he had on so many riders. Sam’s biggest claim to fame is envisioning and riding the “Deconstructed Wheel” pictured above - a hamster-wheel looking contraption that featured prominently in New World Disorder 3.

Brown had been working toward his helicopter pilot’s license but had not yet received his official papers. The helicopter he was flying was reported stolen and supporters say Sam was simply tied up with the wrong people at the wrong time. Whatever the case, the mountain biking world lost an innovative and fearless rider - we’ll miss you Sam.

For those who like to ride fast down a steep downhill or if you live life on the edge waiting to hit your brakes at the last possible minute, Hayes Stroker Ace brakes may be perfect for you. Hayes has upped the ante once again with the Stroker Ace brakes; these babies have a slightly larger and thicker brake lever than the otherwise identical master cylinder of the original Hayes Strokers and an all new mono-bloc forged 4 piston caliper (like a F1 brake caliper). I just finished testing the Hayes Stroker Ace brakes and these new features plus the larger brake pads have delivered an eye popping experience.

The Stroker Aces advertised brake system weights of 440g (6” rotors) and 520g (8″ rotors) are slightly less than my measurements of 452g (for my 6” rear rotor) and 552g (for my 8” front rotor). Installing the new brakes was pretty straight forward and there was even enough hose for long travel bikes. I have tried riding with a 7” rear disc and found the braking was too powerful back there for my riding style. The 6” rear disc works well for me and it even saves some weight!

Now on to how well the Stroker Aces actually performed on the trails. It took a few runs to break in the pads and two caliper adjustments to finally get the Aces set up just right.  During my testing, I evaluated several aspects of the brakes performance including noise level, rotor and pad durability, brake modulation and release, biting force, torque, and fade.  The following chart is a summary of my observations.

I was really impressed with the modulation of these brakes and gave it a high rating of 9 out of 10.  The Stroker Aces really had a lot of control despite the large pad size and four pistons.  There was moderate braking torque when first applying the brakes.  After subsequent applications of the brake, the forces built up and I gradually had to back off the amount of braking required.  Usually when you keep applying brakes they tend to fade or need more force, but these do the opposite.  After changing the brake fluid to DOT 5.1, I found the brake actuation to be a little better.

I rated the silence of these brakes a six out of ten. It was a very wet day when I noticed the rotors and pads generating some noise that was difficult to remove.  The noise was at slow speeds and did not occur at high speed application of the brakes.  Last, the rotors and pads held up well to my testing, there was hardly any sign of wear on either part.  I’ll be keeping the Stroker Aces on my rig to see how they do in the long run though.

Overall, these brakes work extremely well and if you have a long legged all mountain, black diamond or DH mountain bike, get yourself a set of Hayes Stroker Aces and you won’t be disappointed!

Dirt Diggler DH trail in Fernie, British Columbia. Photo posted by birdman.

Ok, so I’m not a freerider - not even close. My riding style is probably best described as cross-country or off-road touring - you know, somewhere below wanna-be freerider and freeride poseur. But I’ve been thinking about freeriding alot lately and I’ve decided that freeriding is pretty much the future of mountain biking. Here’s why.

First of all, freeriding is fun to watch. Sure, it’s also fun to watch a blur of riders race around a cross-country mountain bike course but, like many endurance sports, cross-country mountain biking isn’t very spectator friendly. Freeriding, on the other hand, is full of death-defying moves on artfully crafted trails and stunts. Even non-mountain bikers drool over freeride videos posted on YouTube while the best selling mountain bike DVDs are almost entirely freeride-focused. Freeriding is just the inspiration many need to start mountain biking and today’s new riders are more likely to admire the guys from the Collective Films than Gary Fisher or Joe Breeze.

Freeriding is also accessible. With the US and Canada seeing increasing urbanization (and suburbanization) it’s becoming more and more difficult to site and build large scale mountain bike trail networks. Freeride courses, on the other hand, can be much more compact since stunts can be combined in different ways each time around the course. Freeride stunts can even be found indoors at places like Rays Indoor MTB Park and kids who live in cities can use urban or trials rides to hone freeriding skills.

Unlike cross-country mountain biking, freeriding also makes for a more social mountain biking experience. Instead of falling into a heads-down paceline on the local MTB trail, freeriders are a bit like snowboarders as riders watch each other attempt stunts and offer encouragement (or derision if merited ). Of course other mountain bikers socialize but it’s usually before or after the ride. Freeriders get to socialize during the ride.

Finally, freeriding just might be the future of mountain biking because it can be a little dangerous and that makes it cool. The stunts and jumps themselves are dangerous but there’s also a sense of anti-establishment running through freeride culture, much like in the sport of skateboarding. In a time when IMBA an others preach sustainable trails and professional stunt construction, freeriding is attractive because it’s so free. Riders are free to ride where they want, however they want, whenever they want - like in the early days of mountain biking. Just think: the opposites of free riding would be called “restrained riding” or “expensive riding” - and neither of those sound like any fun

Yep, I may not be a freerider yet but I’m definitely starting to get the fever. The great thing about freeriding is that it’s all about skills progression and anyone can get started no matter what type of bike you ride. Check out the freeride forums here on singletracks or browse freeride bikes and photos here to get educated!