I’m sure many of you already read my review of the Maxxis Ardents - if you haven’t what are you waiting for? OK, now that we’re all up to speed, I have another great set of tires from Maxxis that are perfect for those who don’t quite have the clearance for using the Ardents but need the same level of grip and control.

The Maxxis Minions come in two versions: a double-ply, 2.5″ DH monster and a more XC-friendly, single-ply 2.35” tire ($53 MSRP). The thinner, 2.35″ tires are just wide enough that they provide the rider with the extra control and traction that comes with more rubber plus the added volume to help reduce pinching and rim dings.

The Minions are sold as specifics meaning that the front tire tread pattern is different from the rear tire tread pattern. Clearly this is a good idea because front and rear tires have different functions. The front tread pattern is designed to roll efficiently and provide extra traction under braking as well as cornering. The rear tire is designed to keep itself clean and provide traction for acceleration as well as braking. Below you have the images of the tread patterns, front tire on the left and the rear on the right.

Installing these was painless and took me all of 10 minutes. This time I used new tubes also from Maxxis (FR-specific tubes that are 1.2mm thick) and a dusting of talcum powder. I inflated the tires to 40PSI (my usual beginning pressure) and I was off to the trails.

I decided to take these tires to 3 stages in Collingwood for the first test ride. I chose 3 stages for its fast rolling hills and switchbacks along with its variety of terrain types (rock gardens, hardpack singletrack, river crossings, and a few softer spots that never see the sun).

Starting off on a series of rolling hills that switch back to back and up and down gave me a good indication of how well the Minions hold a line while accelerating and decelerating. I was really impressed with how smoothly the tires rolled and how little energy was required to move these tires, thanks in part to the double row of center knobs. When I got comfortable and began to really lean hard into corners I got the same warm fuzzy feeling I got with the Maxxis Ardents. Tire squirm was virtually non-existent with zero additional roll or pitching. The Minions delivered true tracking through corners.

Smashing these into rock gardens and rougher terrain I felt comfortable enough right away to pretty much go at the pace that I usually like to travel - fast or faster :). All kidding aside, the Minions felt like they were tracking like a well-behaved bloodhound. Even when the tread got wet these did a decent job holding their own over rocks and rough roots. On especially smooth, slick rock and slimy, mossy roots the Minions didn’t grip so well, but then again, what tires do?

All in all, if you’re thinking about getting these tires I’d say go for it. Of course if you’re a pure XC racer kind of person then these may not be for you - stick to something skinnier and lighter.

My overall impressions for the pair

8 out of 10 for climbing
8 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
8 out of 10 for loose conditions
8 out of 10 for cornering
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specs from Maxxis:

Durometer 60a rubber compound
Usage: All Mountain / Freeride
Conditions: medium to wet
Size: 26 x 2.35
Weight: Rear 835 grams (foldable) / Front 830 grams (foldable)

Thanks to the folks at Maxxis for providing these tires for review.

Introducing the 2010 Opus Nelson 1 (MSRP $4160.00 CDN), the much anticipated freeride bike that has been 2 years in the making. With a full 7-inches of travel front and back, this machine is purpose built. A floating shock incorporated in a VPP-style suspension manages the rear travel and a Totem coil fork up front with a onepointfive steering tube will keep you on the path, what ever that path may be.

With full head of steam on your hands you’re gonna need to stop this beast so Opus decided to use Avid Code brakes front and back, with a 8″ rotor up front and a 7″ rotor in back, giving you just enough stopping power to tame that wild beast. The Nelson is tricked out with SRAM components including a Truvativ Holzeller 36T crank, SRAM X9 trigger shifter, and SRAM X9 long cage rear derailleur. Seat post, stem, and bar are all FSA Gravity-Lite components. Novatec hubs keep things rolling (135mm through axle rear, 20mm front) and the hoops are Mavic’s 28mm wide EN521 32 hole rims. Geax Neuron 230 TNT tires provide the rubber to meet the trail.

Taking a closer look at the Nelson you can see this machine is built for abuse. With large, oversized, manipulated top and down tubes and a one and a half inch head tube, this front triangle can take any abuse that bike parks and downhill slopes will dish out.  The folks at Opus (Quebec, Canada) really spent time figuring out what their customers wanted in a freeride bike. Most of the initial product testing was done in BC with many tweaks made as a result of those sessions. Taking a quick look at this bike you can see the time was well spent considering durability and ease of maintenance.

Case in point: the oversized rear end allows you to use a 12×135mm through axle rear wheel which will save a bit of weight compared to a 12×150mm but also noticeably stiffens up the rear triangle. The use of oversized bearings on the pivot points, along with the oversized brace between the left and right seat stays, contribute to the overall strength and stability of the rear triangle and suspension. Up front you have the 180mm travel, 40mm stanchion Totem coil fork combined with a one and a half inch steering tube which takes care of front end stability and strength.

As with any FS mountain bike, getting the Nelson dialed in requires setting the front and rear suspension for your weight and riding style. On the front end, the Totem Coil has Mission control settings and Dual Flow rates that need to be customized. Using the guide provided on the Rockshox website, I started off with their recommendation of 4-4-1, and then went from there for my personal taste of a slightly more plush ride (I hit many rock gardens and I need a softer compression for that). I ultimately found that my low speed (silver knob) setting was 6 clicks and since I’m on the heavier side (195lbs) I ended up with 14 clicks rather than the 12 that they recommended as a starting point.

Now it’s time to set the rear suspension sag. The medium-sized Nelson comes with a 400 lb spring which may sound like a lot but for those who are heavier than 200 lbs, you’ll need at least a 450 or 500 lb spring. Once the sag is set at about 25 - 30% (preloading the coil), you can work on rebound. Here you’re looking to set the shock so that the bike won’t spring up too fast. Start with a little rebound and hit a few bumps in rapid succession. If you feel like you’re getting bucked off the back of the bike, keep adding clicks until the ride smooths out. You’ll know when you go to far when the rear end starts to lose travel over each bump.

Descending

Well, once the suspension is dialed in, the slack 66 degree head tube, 68 degree seat tube, and fairly generous 50mm stem will place you in a comfortable position, ready to roll! Now with numbers like these this bike is meant to do one thing very well: point down and go. The great thing about the Nelson is just how well the bike descends and I found that the faster the bike started to go, the better it handled. Keeping up speed on the Nelson seems to be the trick to make it work its magic.

One comment that I made with a few of my crew on a photo shoot was how easy it was to take the bike over drops. I found that 3 to 6 foot drops were nothing for the Nelson. Just to give you an idea, picture yourself going over a sidewalk curb at medium speed - that’s how the Nelson felt on the 3 to 6 footers. For the brave, 10 to 12 foot drops are actually even more fun. Taking a look at the drop pic below you can see that the bike just soaks up the impact like it’s nothing, If you look carefully you can also see that the bike used all its travel on this particular jump. Hey, when you’re a freerider you learn how to use everything you’ve got - in this case I had 7 inches! Nailing jumps like the one below was simple and easy but with a bike like this you have to remember to keep your weight slightly behind the bottom bracket. Due to the oversized construction I found that off big hits the rear triangle sometimes brushed on my calf if my knees were tucked in a bit.

Pictured below is the 10ft drop sequence.

Here is a short video on the OPUS Nelson 1 at Kelso’s DH run.

Cornering / Railing

At low speeds this bike did fairly well cornering, however the slack head angle would probably cause the steering to feel a bit heavy if it weren’t for the wide 28-inch bars. At speed the bike behaved totally different and allowed me to use hip motion to change direction rather than steering input. With the wider bar and short stem the Nelson placed me in a perfectly centered position to allow for rapid changes in direction. Hitting berms and twisty sections between trees was a breeze and fun.

Upgrades

Having some time to play with the bike I managed to do some part swapping and found a few upgrades that would make this great bike even better. For starters, the wheels that come with the Nelson are decent and work well however I found that slapping on a set of Mavic Crossmax SX wheels with a set of Maxxis Ardents (2.40 instead of 2.30) made the bike stick so much better in the corners and the lighter mass of the wheels made this come out of corners a bit quicker. I also found myself wishing I had my Crankbrothers Joplin mounted on this bike so I could change the seatpost height without stopping. Up front a Hammerschmidt would give you a granny gear as well as the overdrive for pointing downhill. Plus the added clearance of a Hammerschmidt would also be a benefit when hitting big obstacles.

Overall

For my first time out on a freeride bike I would have to give a big thumbs up for the Nelson. It’s a fun ride, a solid build, and a no nonsense set-up that doesn’t ever harsh the flow. The frame is solid and the choice of front and rear suspension gave me a comfortable ride with no issues. If I had $4200 CDN to spend on a bike I would certainly give the Nelson serious consideration. If your budget isn’t quite that high, OPUS also has the Nelson 2 which is downgraded a bit with X-7 shifting, Husselfelt cranks, and a Domain fork but at just $2960.00 CDN. Sweet.

Specs from OPUS:

Nelson 1
Frame:      7005-T6 Aluminium triple butted alloy 150mm travel VPP
Color:       White, gloss
Shock:      Fox DHX 4.0  8,75 X 2,75
Fork:        Rock Shox Totem coil - MCTL, 180mm 1.5″ steerer galv. finish
Headset:  FSA OrbitT Z 1.5 Deepcup Semi Integrated
Bar:         FSA Gravity-Lite 710 9-4, 25MM rise, 31.8
Stem:       FSA Gravity-Lite 1.5 STEM 60mm
Grips:       Velo VLG975 lock-on
Shifting:   Sram trigger X9
Brakes:     Avid Code - 203-185mm galv finish, 203-185mm rotors
BB:           Truvativ Howitzer BB
Cranks:    Truvativ Holzeller 36T, galv. finish
Rear D.:    SRAM X9 long cage
Cassette: Sram PG 950 11.28T 9 spd.
Chain:       Sram PC951, Powerlink
Wheels:    Mavic EN521 Black, Disc 32 hole Novatec 992-991 Black - gold
Tires:        Geax Neuron 230 TNT
Saddle:     Selle San Marco Ischia, black
Seatpost: FSA Gravity -Lite SP 31.6mm, black

Just a quick thanks to my bud Ryan for helping with the video as well as the nice folks at Opus for sending the bike over for allowing me to hit the slopes for my test.

Maxxis is a name in MTB tires that needs no introduction. The company has been around for over 40 years producing high quality tires for almost everything that rolls, especially mountain bikes. This time around I tested the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 (MSRP about $50) which is one of the newer, large volume tires for the freerider / trail rider.

The Ardent is categorized for aggressive trails and medium to wet conditions with an emphasis on cornering control. If you look carefully at the photo below you can see two rows of very sharp and aggressive side knobs which will really grab and hold your line through the corners. Featuring a 60 TPI casing and 60a rubber compound, these tires will take rocky abuse and should last a long time.

Installing the Ardents along with a set of the Maxxis Freeride tubes (26x 2.20- 2.50, 1.2mm thick) on my Mavic Crossmax SX rims (removing the tubeless valve stems), took very little time at all. In fact I spent more time gathering the talcum powder and necessary tools to remove the valve stem than actually installing the tires and I didn’t even need a tire iron. The job took about 5 minutes per tire to dust up the tubes with powder and slip the Ardents on the rim (minding direction). Inflated the tires to 40psi and I was off.

I decided to take the tires to the 3-stages trail which is right next door to two great spots - Blue Mountain and Kolapore. 3-stages features a run that’s about 1km of just winding downhill with tight and twisty turns, lots of rooted sections and rock gardens plus tight singletrack which provides a great cardio workout. Basically 3-stages is the perfect place to put these tires through their paces!

Climbing with the Ardent tires was pretty awesome, especially considering this is meant to be an all-purpose tire. The aggressive multifaceted center tread really keeps this tire going in almost any type of terrain, grappling at everything and propelling the rider forward. Even getting caught up on rooted sections going up or down didn’t sway this tire’s progress. Likewise, the stable casing and tread really kept this tire pointing in the desired direction without any hints of wandering. The tough casing also helped absorb the abuse of step descents without a hint of trouble even when barreling through rock gardens and rooted terrain. This tire is like a laser with exacting tire placement on demand.

The Ardents really made me feel comfortable in the corners and I quickly learned to trust them when hitting the turns hard. With tons of grip and absolutely no squirm, I never even felt the tire roll when I was threading my way through tough rock gardens.

While the Ardent tires will run comfortably on nearly any trail surface, they really shine on terrain that is slightly on the softer side of things. I found that the great traction the Ardents offer drops off a bit when hitting dry hardpack or dust over hardpack. The tire basically seems to push more when it encounters hardpack and in these conditions it gets just good traction - not great. Hitting rivers and muddy spots was a no-brainer as these tires shed the gunk and kept moving along, ready for more.

‘

Overall I gotta say the Ardent is one of my favorite tires in this size category. They are not uber-expensive, they wear well, they’re super stable, and most of all they offer tons of traction. These tires are like the stability control system on a Porsche Turbo: they make anyone look like they are as good as an F1 driver.  I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending these to anyone who loves to ride.

My overall impressions:

9 out of 10 for climbing
9 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
9 out of 10 for loose conditions
9 out of 10 for cornering
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specs from Maxxis:

Durometer 60a rubber compound
Usage: All Mountain / Freeride
Conditions: medium to wet
Size: 26 x 2.4
Weight: 855 grams

When I started riding back in the early 1990s, there was basically just one flavor of mountain biking but today MTB categories can get a little confusing. I found this helpful chart over on the Turner website and I think it does a good job illustrating some of the divisions you’ll find in mountain biking find today. The arrows and text below the chart were added for the purposes of this post.

Right off the bat you can see the spectrum of riding from XC to Downhill and everything in between. Notice how the plot gets higher and more jagged as you move to the right, representing technical difficulty (not necessarily climbing or aerobic difficulty). It’s also cool to think of this as a progression chart - beginners can move from XC to AM and beyond as skills improve.

I really like how this chart can be used to show ranges rather than discreet points along the spectrum. In this particular chart, the shaded green area represents recommend usage for the Turner 5.Spot. Notice how it isn’t just a Trail or All Mountain bike. Based on the geometry and travel (5.5″ rear) this bike works well for XC, Trail, and AM riding.

The spectrum approach is also helpful for classifying riders. Most of us enjoy a variety of terrain and saying someone is strictly a Freerider or Downhiller usually doesn’t tell the whole story.

But wait, this chart has one more trick up its sleeve! Most mountain bike trails themselves can’t be readily classified into one type or another. A mellow XC trail may have 5 foot drops in places or even a freeride area that’s 5 miles into the trail. Other trails may have short bursts of All-Mountain style terrain with XC-type fireroads connecting sections. In fact I imagine some trails could cover the entire spectrum from XC to Downhill while others fit more neatly into a single category.

Some generalities about mountain bikes can be made from this chart and I’ve added arrows describing just a few trends you can expect to see when purchasing a new mountain bike. As you move from left to right, travel (front and rear) should increase while weight will follow roughly the same trend. Price, on the other hand, isn’t so easy to classify. For example, remember this $7,000 XC hardtail from Interbike? Finding a DH bike that costs half that amount wouldn’t be too hard (nor would finding a DH bike costing 50% more).

Now, if it were possible to create a mountain bike that could cover the entire chart from XC to DH that would be the holy grail. Maybe the Cannondale Simon will deliver on that dream one day

Not only does Manitou make a decent MTB fork, but you have to check out Manitou’s line-up of ISX dampers. I was lucky enough to get my hands on an ISX-6 and I must say it shows some promise to be a great damper. Out of the box it has all the things I need and want in a damper and none of the things I don’t need - kinda like it was custom made for me! Anyhow, the Manitou ISX-6 (MSRP $609) is made for those who fall into the all-mountain to gravity range of riders where weight is not too much of an issue (my 190 x 50mm unit weighs 418grams with spacers). Even at that weight it’s still as light if not lighter than some of its direct competitors.

The Manitou ISX-6 rear shock comes with independent high and low speed compression dampening adjustments, rebound adjustment, volume control (which controls spring rate near the end of travel), and spring rate (air pressure). These are all the controls you need for everything from stuttery, rutted, rocky trails to big drops that would normally cause your bike’s rear end to bottom out.

Installing this unit on the bike really should be done by a person who knows what they are doing, mainly because you need to know which adapters are required for your bike (all shocks are sold without adapters). Once you or your mechanic install the correct mounting hardware, you’re ready to get busy setting up the damper.

First things first: set the sag by following the instructions supplied with the shock. The instructions are very specific and require you to set the shock by adding air into the reservoir first (red cap). Pump that side up to at least 150psi to start. Next, make sure the high and low speed circuits are fully open as you add air into the main chamber. Adjust sag by adding or taking away pressure from the main air spring (black cap). Although this part sounds complicated, Manitou includes a handy measurement chart for dialing sag in exactly. Serious riders know that sag measurement is critical for optimizing travel path and positioning and once you have it dialed in correctly, it’s nirvana.

After setting the sag I worked on adjusting compression. To be honest I found the compression settings a bit difficult - I ended up with the high speed compression (black knob) 3 clicks from full on and then fiddled with the low speed compression (red knob) only. My goal in setting high speed compression is to find the point where coming off a drop won’t cause the wheel to blow through its travel too quickly. For the low speed compression setting, I found the point where there was as little pedal bob as possible when sitting and pedaling.

Once the compression was set, I worked on rebound (blue knob) to find the point where bumps don’t buck me off the saddle. During ride one I played with the rebound - two clicks +/- here and there - until I found the perfect setting. With the ISX-6 dialed in I could launch off drops with a controlled compression and even return without overshooting or bouncing too much.

The final control is the volume control which controls the shock at the end of its stroke. There are four settings and I ended up at the 3rd setting which ramps up spring rate for the 6+ foot drops I was taking.

On the trails I felt confident with the ISX-6 controlling the rear suspension. I found on fast descents and hitting multiple roots and drops that the rear end of the bike was far more stable than with my previous shock.

At this point I’d like to pause and offer a brief physics lesson. If you consider the saddle as a level or a gauge of how your bike is tracking, when the saddle goes up on a bump this means the suspension is working but not fast enough (my old shock did this). The transfer of energy is not complete and the wheel is following the disturbance and forcing the bike to move instead than the shock. This can also be an indicator that you are near the limit of the shock’s travel.

With the ISX-6 I noticed far less bike movement and the saddle was more stable than with my previous set-up. This made a big difference in the overall ride quality for me - more plush, yet fully under control without that wallowy feeling.

Taking the ISX-6 to the limit, I hit a few of my favorite rock garden waterfalls. These sections are 50 foot long steep descents of just rock and trees where you have to change direction at least 4 times as you thread yourself between some large trunks. This can be a daunting task, but with the help of superb ISX-6 enabled tracking in the rear it was a piece of cake with tons of control. These sections are great at measuring wheel control and the ISX-6 passed with flying colors!

All in all, the ISX-6 is a decent shock with great small and large bump compliance. It’s light enough for long leg trail bikes and tough enough to take bigger hits and thread rough terrain.  Many thanks to the folks at Manitou for tuning tips to unlock this shock’s potential!

Cheers.

If you’re in the hunt for a great All Mountain bike tire at a decent price, look no further than the Prowler MX from WTB ($50 MSRP). Aggressive, talon-like knobs will help you navigate the trail like a jungle cat so you can catch even the fastest prey!

Installing these tires on my Easton Havoc wheels was a snap and required just a few minutes. I did myself a favor and used heavy duty tubes along with some talcum powder to improve performance and reduce friction in the tire. I inflated the tires to 40 psi and was off to the trails!

I wanted to hit as much varied terrain as I could since WTB says this tire can handle wet to dry terrain as well as loose to rough. Fortunately Kelso and Blue Mountain have plenty of both.

On hard packed surfaces the Prowler MX tires did fairly well and didn’t vibrate too much. Both tires had decent traction and didn’t feel squirmy like other aggressively patterned tires I’ve ridden. Rolling efficiency seemed decent and I didn’t feel like I had to labor too much to maintain my speed.

Under climbing and braking the Prowlers were great and did not lock up or slip unexpectedly. Even when braking on very hard surfaces such as rock and hard roots the tires did a good job stopping without sliding. At times when the tires did lock up, they tended to remain in line - no wandering - thanks to the pronounced transition knobs. On climbs the ramped knobs kept the tread firm on the ground without slipping. Extra siping (small grooves) on the knobs adds even more edges for an overall higher level of grip.

I guess the shining point on the Prowler MX tire is its ability to take corners in a variety of conditions. I loved the way these tires gripped in softer, dusty trails. When the terrain got technical, tight, and twisty - these tires just kept hanging on and worked exceedingly well. I also loved this tire’s ability to bite down on the fallen log runs without slipping (that is a big plus for me at least). The corner knobs on Prowler MX tires have almost double the number of blocks and are also siped to increase gripping.

Overall, the Prowler MX is a great tire that will really boost your riding performance and enjoyment. If you haven’t tried a set now may be the time!

My overall impressions:

8 out of 10 for climbing
8 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
9 out of 10 for loose conditions
8 out of 10 for hardpack
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specs from WTB:

Durometer 53a  DNA rubber
GMA 54/60
Usage: All Mountain / Freeride
Conditions: Wet to dry / Loose to Rough
Size: 2.3″
Weight: 869grams

A little while back a few people were looking for bash guard recommendations in the forums and today I have a great product to tell you about. The e*13 Turbocharger ($49.95 MSRP) is tough as nails and light as hell which makes this a great choice for any freeride or DH rider. e*13 claims the Turbocharger is both the lightest and strongest bash guard ever made - who said you can’t have it all?

I guess you could call the e*thirteen Turbocharger a “next generation” bash guard. Typically bash guards were solid pieces of plastic that were bolted to your crank in place of the outer ring on your chain set. In the old days it wasn’t uncommon to see these units weighing over 200 grams, which, to many people (myself included), was a little too heavy to be worth the trouble. My Turbocharger officially weighs in at 86 grams (for the 36t model) which is far better than my previous 300 gram bash guard. Much of the weight reduction comes a patent-pending design that removes excess material that doesn’t directly provide strength to the guard.

To install one of these to your bike you’ll need to know what size you need, which is a simple matter of counting the number of teeth you middle chain ring has (it should be either 32, 36, 0r 40). If you have a middle chain ring with 32T you would get the 36T bash guard. If you have 36T to 40T get the larger size of 40T. Choose from either black or white to match your ride.

Depending on your crank configuration you may also need to order long chain ring bolts due to the thicker bash guard (sold separately). If your bolts just thread on with one or two turns that is not enough and you need those longer bolts - this is not something you want to fly off on the trail! Installing the bash guard is super simple and can be done using either a 5 or 6mm allen key. Remove the outer ring and install the bash guard, making sure you align the reliefs of the bash guard with the crank arms. The e*13 sports captured aluminum inserts to prevent crushing due to over tightening which will definitely save heartache for many overzealous home mechanics.

Hitting the trails with the e*thirteen Turbocharger was awesome. I lost 200 grams on my bike and gained a nice strong bash guard that can take a beating on the trails at Kelso without slowing me down. Actually the Turbocharger took repeated beatings and smashes on logs and rocks without cracking or even complaining. Riding along I didn’t get any creaking or grinding which proves this is a high quality guard. Aside from protecting from over tightening, the aluminum inserts also seem to discourage hit-induced crushing and cracking that may cause movement over time.

I would have to say that the e13 Turbocharger bash guard is a great addition to the e*13 line up. If you’re out to get a high quality bash guard, this is the one to get. It’s lightweight, strong, and features dual crank arm reliefs just in case you manage to crack it - I dare anyone to try!

More Turbocharger details are available at e13components.com. A quick thanks to the folks at e*13 for the chance at testing out the new Turbocharger. Cheers!

This review is for those who spend all their time pointing their bikes down hill; for those who live for the double diamond; and for anyone who is confident at the sight of mega gnarly rock strewn terrain. Yeah, that’s right, this is for the crazy people who call themselves downhillers or freeriders.

Schwalbe just introduced a new dry tire, the Wicked Will ($83.55 MSRP) for riders who love to toss their bikes down the nastiest terrain you can imagine. The new “Curve Claw” blocks on the sides of the tread produce a tremendous amount of cornering grip and the low block design makes this a very fast rolling tire. The Wicked Will tire is perfect for those who find themselves bombing down high speed runs with tight and twisty hardpack berms.

These heavy weight tires (1370grams each!) are clearly designed to be ridden downhill and looking at them they’d be right at home on a dirt bike. Installing the Wicked Wills took 3 tire irons and a bit more work than usual due to the tight fit, two ply construction, and stiff side walls. I added a little soapy water to the sidewalls to seat the beads perfectly on the rim and went with 35 psi in the front and rear. As always, follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing any tires and make adjustments for your own preferences. Now for the fun part!

Tracking down the slopes with the Wicked Wills was great thanks to the extra mass of the tire which helped me keep the bike pointing in the right direction. Pedaling hard on the flats, these tires didn’t skip a beat and kept me moving to the next section without slowing my momentum or shimmying side to side.

Taking the Schwalbe hard into corners was awesome - I couldn`t believe the amount of extra traction that these tires delivered compared to the previous set that I had on! Coming off the corners I almost forgot that I needed to slow for upcoming technical trail features (TTFs). I really appreciated the stability the Wicked Will tires offered as they minimized unwanted side to side movement and kept my steering on track.

Under braking the tires held up well and did not lock up unexpectedly. Even when braking on very hard surfaces such as rock and hard roots the tires did well at stopping without slipping too much. On the rare occasions when the tire did start to slip, the tire never moved sideways. Rather it just locked and remained on line.

The Wicked Will is a great DH-specific tire that will get you down any slope with ease. The super tough sidewalls help prevent snake bites due to bashes from rocks or logs (I did lots of that on the slopes) and the slipped knobs and curve claw blocks on the sidewalls will keep you on your line with laser-like precision. If you give these tires a shot you won’t be disappointed!

A big shout out to the folks at SunRingle for the STR8 Track wheels, and the folks at Schwalbe for the chance to give these tires a serious test run.

My overall rating:

5 out of 10 for climbing
9 out of 10 for cornering
8 out of 10 for rolling and efficiency
7 out of 10 for loose condidtion
10 out of 10 for hardpack
9 out of 10 for stopping in a straight line

Specifications from Schwalbe:

• Downhill, Double Casing, Wire Bead
• 26 x 2.50 only
• Gooey Gluey compound
• 1370 grams
• 20 - 50 psi
• 2 x 67 EPI (TPI)

The Fox Talas 36 RC2 fork is just the ticket for those who like to travel through the air with the greatest of ease while avoiding going splat upon landing. Fox has revamped its entire product line for 2010 and I just had to try the latest arrival: the Fox TALAS 36 RC2 (now with FIT damper). This fork is impressively stout, more adjustable than a NASCAR, and lightweight for its class (less than five pounds). How did Fox manage to cram so many features into such a lightweight package? Well, for starters the new FIT damper reduces the amount of oil required which in turn reduces the fork’s weight. FIT technology also eliminates the chance of oil aeration (turning from fluid to foam) which translates into better control throughout your ride.

Installation

Seeing that this fork is not cheap, do not attempt to install this one unless you have all the tools handy and are competent enough for the task. Let’s face it: when a bike part costs more than a thousand dollars it’s not something you want to make a mistake on unless you’re Donald Trump (and I’m guessing he doesn’t do his own MTB work). Now, having said that, once the steering tube and star nut are installed, the rest of the installation is actually a snap. Just make sure you have enough brake hose for full travel and the correct amount of load on the quick release skewers at the axle.  Always follow the recommendations on the included interactive installation CD when setting the sag and use the table provided by Fox to set the correct pressure for your weight. Above all, remember to weigh yourself in full gear with water, otherwise you will be off and will need to add more pressure later.

Before setting up this fork I strongly recommend riding around a parking lot or on the street while jouncing the fork for a while to get all the fluids where they need to be.  This one step I never skip - and keep in mind the “showroom push down” doesn’t cut it.

Setup

After bouncing around for a bit to get all the fluids well circulated I got down to business setting up my fork. The TALAS has four settings: air pressure (spring rate), low speed compression, rebound, and high speed compression. The images below show the controls for the TALAS  rebound, high speed and low speed compression and finally the height control.

Sag is controlled via air pressure and is the first thing that needs to be set. Just follow the included CD instructions on selecting a starting pressure and you should be well within the ball park. This fork allows you to roll with either 100, 130, or 160mm of travel so I chose to use the fork’s full 160mm length for my sag measurement. Fox recommends a 20% sag which translates into 32mm at a 160mm length.

Low speed compression is set using the small blue knob and stacked dials on the right fork leg (they are covered with a black screw cap). When setting the low speed compression you’re looking for the point where you can hit the brakes or accelerate without having the bike pitch excessively. Ride hard and hit the brakes, noting how much the bike pitches forward. You don’t want too much movement but at the same time you don’t want the fork to stay rigid. Ultimately you need the fork to follow the trail and thankfully this setting can be tweaked both on and off the trail.

Rebound is the next setting to manipulate and you also can do this one the trail. Here you’re looking for a controlled return to ride height after the fork compresses. You don’t want the fork to feel like it’s tossing you off the bike on return (too little rebound) nor do you want the fork to come up so fast that it feels like the fork is losing travel over multiple bumps (too much rebound).

For me the high speed compression (big blue knob) setting was a bit more challenging and I ended up using more of a “seat of the pants” approach to get it dialed in. Most riders will probably only need to set this once after finding a satisfactory amount of control but those who live and breathe traveling through the air will probably want to play with this setting more often. Adjust your high speed compression setting so the fork doesn’t blow through its entire travel too quickly when taking a big hit. Keep adding damping until you have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact.

On the trails with the TALAS 36

On rutted, rooty trails the fork followed the trail as if my tire was glued to the ground.  During my test rides there was never an instant when I felt the fork lose control over the front wheel. Granted, I was using a fairly lightweight but strong wheel set-up (Eskar S-works 2.3 and Sun-Ringle STR8 Track wheels), but clearly the fork took control and managed the wheel nicely over rutted braking areas without a single complaint.

Flying over larger jumps, drop downs, and waterfall rock gardens I felt very confident and in full control of the bike. The 160mm fork with its 36mm stanchions and the 20mm quick-release really kept everything aligned upon landing and soaked up jumps as if they were just bumps. Nailing every jump without having the front end want to bury itself in the dirt or push me off the bars was just fantastic. I love a fork that can do that!

Climbing with the TALAS is what I really liked because I could go from 160mm to 130mm to 100mm in just two clicks without having to remove a glove. This feature is a must for those who intend to toss this fork on an all-mountain or trail rig. At 160mm travel, climbing can be a bit tough and yes the steering will wander a touch (put a wider bar on and this is a non-issue). But turn the travel down to 130mm or even 100mm and you’ll have a steeper head angle and your weight will be better distributed over the bars - now you’re climbing with the rest of the group. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying you will be as efficient as your buddy on his XC rig, but at least you can keep up!

Descending with this fork on a few ski runs at Blue Mountain, ON was ridiculously fun - I just cranked the fork up to its full travel (160mm) and went. At speed with this fork I felt like I was on rails with the added comfort of total control when landing jumps. I also found I didn’t need to add steering corrections when I hit patches of rocks or roots. Going fast and flying over doubles is what this fork lives to do.

Final notes on the TALAS

This fork rocks and Fox gives you everything you could possibly want in a lightweight, neat package. Not only do you get a highly capable fork that is very light for its size and travel but you also get a fork that can be dialed in precisely for any riding style. Overall this is a great buy so give your LBS a shout to see if you can get a test ride on a Fox TALAS 36 RC2 - I’m betting you won’t be disappointed. Just don’t let sticker shock deter you - in mountain biking you almost always get what you pay for!

Cheers

How I Rate the Fox TALAS 36 RC2

Specifications from Fox:
WEIGHT (1 1/8″ steerer): 4.99 lbs (2.26 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ straight steerer): 4.90 lbs (2.22 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ taper steerer): 4.95 lbs (2.25 kg)
TRAVEL: 6.3 inches (160 mm) TALAS travel adjust 160-130-100
ADJUSTMENTS: Low speed compression, High speed compression, Travel (160-130-100mm), Air spring pressure, Rebound
LOWER LEG: 20QR thru-axle system; post-style disc brake mounting
STEERER: Standard: 1 1/8″, Optional: 1.5″ or 1.5″ Taper
SPRING: Air
FORK COLOR: Titanium
INTENDED USE: DH, FR, AM

Just a quick thanks to the good folks at Fox Racing Shox’s for the TALAS fork and Opus Bikes for their great bikes that they produce.

SUNringlé has done it again, updating and improving the STR8 Track wheel set for those who like to spend time flying through the air as part of their regular riding routine. The STR8 Track wheel set (MSRP $560.00) is just as at home on tight rocky singletrack as it is landing 7 foot+ drops. Having been tested by extreme riders like Cedric Graica you can be sure these wheels can take on anything your trails can deliver. The STR8 Track wheels are not to be confused with a freeride wheel set which would be a little beefier, but for what these have been designed for (all-mountain, heavy trail use), they fit the bill nicely with room to play.

I decided to install these wheels on my 5.5 rig with a Manitou Minute 20mm front fork, and after torquing new disks and installing tires and a fresh cassette, I was off to the trails. For the test ride I stuck with my usual tires (Eskar S-works 2.3) since I already know how the tires behave and I can concentrate on the wheel itself. At 1984 grams per set these are just a touch lighter than the Mavic Crossline (2045g) wheel set I tested last month, however the STR8 Track wheels are 2mm wider and feel more rigid than the Mavic Set. The rigid feeling on these wheels is due to the 32 Wheelsmith DB14 double butted steel spokes plus a much welcomed wider and deeper rim.  Once you  get moving it’s hard to want to stop (even the camera man had a hard time catching me). These wheel are just too much fun!

A great thing I noticed while testing the STR8 Track wheels on the trail is the smoothness of the wheel set - they roll great and do not flex laterally even when tossed into a high G bank turn. Another welcomed attribute is the relatively quiet but positive engagement of the freehub. I have found these wheels light and responsive enough and they work well traveling over skinnies and obstacles without hesitating to change direction quickly. The lacing of the spokes results in great control while the optimized spoke tension helps take the edge off impact when take big hits.

Overall I have to say the SUNringlé STR8 Track wheels are worth every penny - hit your local bike shop and take a look at these, especially if you’re on the north side of 200lbs. Being at that weight myself, (with full gear and water) I know that finding a set of wheels that will withstand serious trail abuse can be difficult. But look no further, these fit the bill and at their cost you can afford a new set of your favorite rubber as well!

Now the Official information from SUNringlé:

Use: All Mountain / Disc
Front Hub: 32 Hole Sunringlé Jumping Flea (Black)
Rear Hub: 32 Hole Sunringlé Dirty Flea (Black)
Rim: Black anodized welded Equalizer, Width: 31mm Disk brake only
Spokes: Wheelsmith DB 14 double butted spokes - black finish
Nipples: Wheelsmith alloy black
Lacing: 3 Cross (Fr/ Rr)
Weight: 1984g

Cheers folks - and remember to keep the rubber side down! Avoid the big trees - they don’t move!

Imagine this: you’re in the groove, feeling the flow of the trail, and you come to a steep downhill section. If you’re like me, instead of launching straight into it you probably stop, adjust your seatpost, and kill the flow before you get to the best part. If this sounds familiar, Crank Brothers should be your new best friend. They say you can’t buy your friends but if you have $285 (MSRP) the Crank Brothers Joplin R will be your convenient, ride enhancing trail buddy. The post is available in only two sizes 30.9 and 31.6 so for now this great post is limited to those frame seatpost sizes (the Joplin R isn’t friends with just anyone).

When you receive the Joplin, it comes beautifully packaged - I almost didn’t want to remove it and actually considered having it framed. All kidding aside it came well packaged with no chance of  shipping damage and included everything I needed minus a few tie wraps. Installing it was very easy but there are a few things you should consider doing first before you go and stuff the seat post in your frame.

Check the remote lever to see if it actually fits on your bar - I had a hard time fitting the remote on my RaceFace Next SL carbon bar. I have heard from others that installation may be difficult on some Easton Carbon bars as well, so be sure to confirm it fits before you plunk down the cash. If all is good then installation is a snap - just keep the installation instructions handy during assembly.

Once you install the post and run the cable  (you may need to shorten it as necessary), compress your suspension to see if the cable will rub on any linkages.  Make sure you place the nylon tubing on the exposed cable that runs to the actuation lever and visually inspect that you have clearance between the actuation lever and the saddle (have someone sit on the saddle or place a weight). You may have to adjust your seat angle a bit.

I set the remote on the left hand side, seeing that I use that hand less and other than grabbing the front brake when I ride I rarely use the front derailleur. So it makes sense to have the Joplin on my left.

On the trails, the old scenario was to come to a steep descent, stop and dismount, lower the seat post, remount the bike, roll back a bit, then go down. Talk about harshing the flow. But no longer - now when I know there is a steep descent I just actuate the lever, sit on the seat to lower it, release the lever, and ta-da - down it stays, and down I go. When I clear the steep descent, a pull of the remote brings the seat back up to the original seat height. I can then continue pedaling efficiently at the correct ride height. To that end the Joplin is flawless and great - I couldn’t ask for a better solution. The seat post does not creak and the seat stays set at whatever height that I set it at.

After a few rides I did notice one thing that put a slight damper on this otherwise excellently engineered seat post. I noticed that the seat developed a bit of play which allowed the seat to wiggle a small amount (for some people this could be an issue). After visiting the Crank Brothers website they mentioned that it is normal to have some play and that anything less that 10mm movement is acceptable.  The post that I am testing presently has 6mm movement.

My final two cents worth:

The Joplin R is a great seatpost which will totally change the way you ride and the amount of fun you will have on the trails - it inspires confidence and enhances rider control . If you don’t sweat the details and you do maintain this post, it will be a great upgrade. The downside is that the post has a bit of play and unfortunately the Joplin at present only comes in two sizes: 30.9mm and 31.6mm.

Get out there and kick it.

Cheers.

The Mavic Crossline wheelset ($399.00 MSRP) is new for 2009. Mavic released these wheels for those of us who are on a budget but want a true Enduro wheelset. You can buy the wheels as a set or individually but your choice of colors is limited to black, black, or black (though they do have some cool new rim graphics). The wheels come with almost everything you need - a quick release skewer for the rear, rim tape for both wheels, and even a special tool for adjusting the rear hub bearings. Unfortunately the Crossline wheelset doesn’t come with a front quick release so you’ll need to pick up an adapter that sells for about $12 to convert to a 9mm configuration.

Some highlights of the Crossline wheels:

Tough 21mm internal wide rim
28 straight pull, steel spokes
Oversized hubs with large cartridge bearings
A new ITS-4 freewheel. Mavic uses an entirely new transmission with 4 pawls and 4 bearings  to reduce the rotation of the wheel before it engages from 17 degrees down to 7.
Weight: 2045 grams per pair - front wheel: 965 grams, rear wheel: 1080 grams
Disc brake specific profile: no braking surface on the rims
Pinned rim joints
6106 Aluminum
8.5 mm valve hole diameter
QRM+ bearings
Aluminum front and rear axle
Oversized aluminum front and rear bodies
20×92mm front axle (adapters needed)
12×135mm rear axle

I was stoked to try these puppies out on the trails at Kelso Conservation area (one of the stops on the O-Cup DH circuit) and I tried to find some really rough stuff just to see how rugged these wheels really are. Compared to the regular wheel set that I usually ride these were a blast. The first thing I noticed with the Mavic Crosslines is the different sound the freehub makes compared to older versions of Mavic’s product line-up. I was also pleased when pedaling from a stop - there is virtually instant engagement of the gears with little movement of the crank before the cassette grabs the wheel (which is great for very slow speeds when you need to hammer over a log, ride a skinny or slam through a rock garden). I felt very little flex when cornering, even while nailing birms and switchbacks. These wheels track very well and inspire confidence, felling solid beneath the bike.

Although Mavic advertises these as Freeride wheels I would have to call them “light” Freeride/Enduro wheels.  After a few drops (5′ to 7′), table tops, step ups, and rock gardens on an extreme singletrack run I felt pretty confident about the wheels. Despite the thrashing the Crosslines held true with no signs of problems, other than a sight ding (my bad for under-inflating my tires).

The steel spokes on the Mavic Crosslines (and Freeride/Enduro/All-Mountain wheels in general) are a great choice because steel spokes have a higher tolerance for abrasion and will hold up to branches, rocks, and an occasional dropped chain (I don’t use a chain retention device). On this test I even caught a large branch in my rear wheel which ripped the derailleur off without damaging a single spoke - talk about tough!

Overall these wheels are well worth the coin, and I would recommend these to anyone, even to those of us who are on the heavy side. In a time when everyone is watching their well earned dollar these wheels won’t break the bank and are cheap enough that if you do break them you won’t have to give up an arm or a leg to replace them (you probably broke an arm or leg when you broke your wheel anyway so you won’t want to give up another!).

Cheers… Now get outside and hit the trails!