WTB offers the LaserDisc DH wheelset as a low-cost, lightweight alternative for gravity riders who ride hard. I posted a preview of this wheelset last winter and now I’m finally ready to give my full review after months of thrashing. I conducted my rides on some of the most demanding trails in Whistler and Vancouver, so these wheels took quite a pounding. To see how they fared, read on…

The Ride

The WTB LaserDisc DH wheels bolted onto my Banshee Legend MK II effortlessly and lowered my bike’s weight by over a pound. A quick parking lot test revealed a bike that had a livelier feel with faster acceleration. Dropping weight in the wheels means a lower rotational mass which is much more noticeable than weight reduction elsewhere on a bike. Needless to say, losing a full pound in wheel weight makes a big difference in the ride. Unless you’re already running a race-light wheelset, you will notice a difference too. These wheels may be light but I wanted to see how they would hold up against the world’s most demanding trails.

For the first month of testing I was surprised by how well these wheels held up. I pounded them on the rocky, pothole filled trails of Whistler and the Shore and they stayed straight and flat-spot free. I was surprised because normally I destroy wheels pretty quickly. Could these be the perfect DH wheels?

Well the LaserDisc’s are good but certainly not perfect. After a month of thrashing the rear wheel un-tensioned itself and I put a good sized flat spot in it. From this point on, the wheel de-tensioned, went out of true and flat spotted every 2 or 3 rides (after re-tensioning of course). The result is that I now have a rear wheel with 3 flat spots, some side to side wobble and loose spokes. The front wheel fared much better with just 1 minor flat spot. On a positive note, the hubs still run as fast and smooth as they did when they were new.

It may sound like these wheels didn’t hold up very well, but readers should know that I put much more strain on my equipment than the average rider. I have a plow-through­-everything-quickly mentality, am 6’3” 200lbs with riding gear, and I ride the roughest, rootiest, rockiest trails in Canada. These wheels held up well for a month, so they will likely hold up for a full season under a lighter, finesse rider who frequents smoother trails. As someone who is tough on bike equipment, I’m used to breaking stuff; replacing the rims (edit: and spokes) should make these wheels good as new since the spokes and hubs have held up well.

The Verdict

If you’re a privateer racer or performance-minded downhiller looking for a lightweight, inexpensive wheelset, consider the WTB LaserDisc DH. These wheels do well on smooth, pedal-friendly tracks, though they’re not quite up to steep, burley tracks because they’re so lightweight. They are not bombproof, but will add horsepower to your bike when pedaling. I can’t think of a lighter DH wheelset at this price point, making the WTB LaserDisc DH wheels a great buy for the right rider.

Thanks to WTB for the test product.

This is pretty much it. My little red rocket. The Dream Machine. The Monster. Here is the Banshee Legend II that I finally have all built up and ready to rip. It took me a while to get it (nearly) complete – I’m actually still waiting on two items that should be arriving shortly. But other than that, it’s done. I can’t wait until the slopes open for the season.

I first managed to get the bike together and out on the trail late in the season last year where I tested out some great products from Rockshox, Avid, and SRAM. Since then I added the final touches of bling from Loaded as well as Deemax Ultimate wheels from Mavic. Those early test rides on the Easton wheelset and Answer products really whetted my appetite for the main course.

The frame is a Banshee Legend II in medium:

Head angle: (63.8°) Seat angle: (70.5°)
Wheelbase: 1171mm / 46.1″
Bottom bracket height: 348mm /13.7″

If you don’t understand those angles and measurements, let me break it down for you: this frame is a purpose-built DH racer, designed for speed and fast cornering. The ultra-low BB keeps the center of gravity down low while the long wheelbase is great for stability.

The suspension arrangement is what Banshee calls their VF4B (Virtual Floating Four Bar) suspension. Now you might say it looks like someone else’s design but let’s face it: unless you have a single pivot, multi-link, suspension configs almost all look alike. However, there are actually small differences in pivot placement that make a big difference in performance. The virtual center region where the Legend II pivots is also different from other bikes. The short lower link, positioning of the links, and lengths of the links make for an ideal axle path. This path starts arcing up and to the rear (perfect for absorbing square edged bumps) in the first bit of travel; from the middle to the end of its path, the axle goes up and forward (reduces chain growth and pedal feedback).

Up front I’m running the Manitou Dorado Pro. I did have the BoXXer WC on there, but for now I’m running the Dorado Pro. I just received the Loaded AmX Rizer bar, a beast of a bar at 31″ wide and 328 grams. The AmX Rizer features 8° back sweep and 4° up sweep which is just right for me. Connecting the bar to the Dorado I have the Loaded AmX direct mount stem set at 45mm length (adjustable to 50mm as well).

Completing the controls, I’m rocking Formula’s ONE brakes (I also run the 2011 Avid Codes) and I love the levers because they take up virtually zero room on my bars and have a great feel (never mind the power and excellent modulation). The shifter is  a SRAM 10spd X0 (presently my favorite) with 1×10 gearing.

Now let’s talk about the high performance drivetrain. The Descendant cranks are from Truvativ and I’ve added the e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention device to keep the SRAM PC 1091 chain in line. For now the pedals are Xpedo XMX12ACs which have a great feel and provide a wide foot plate. I’m also looking forward to trying Spank’s new Spike pedals soon. Although I don’t plan on doing much sitting on this bike, the saddle is a WTB Valcon mounted on a Loaded X-Lite seatpost.

On the back I have the SRAM X0 short cage 10spd derailleur on an OG1090 11-25 rear cassette. Talk about great shifting. Despite the fact that the rear cassette is the road version, it works great with the X0 rear derailleur. Wheels are the iconic Mavic Deemax Ultimates (12x150mm rear) which are super light for DH (under 2,000 grams) and oh so smooth.

Now all this is tied together by two other important things: the rear shock and tires. I’m running the Rockshox Vivid Air which provides an excellent feel while controlling the wheel nicely. For tires I went with the ITS Invader 2.5″. At about 1100 grams each, they offer a decent mix between weight and durability. The Invader is also what is considered an all conditions tire, perfect for the Ontario landscape where I do most my riding. Lately I’ve noticed North Shore type features popping up around here so I’m excited to see how these tires perform in a variety of conditions.

In its current state the bike weighs in under 40lbs. – 37 lbs. to be exact – and it’s still bulletproof. Weight savings come from several areas, starting with the innovative Interspoke milling on the Mavic rims. Banshee carefully selects tubing thicknesses and machined shapes while including titanium pivot hardware. The Vivid Air and the Sram OG-1090 rear cassette shed massive amounts of weight over competing products, accounting for a whole pound of savings together. The final little bits of weight fell off by replacing stock hardware bolts with titanium and alloy parts.

In case you’re interested here are the build details:

Frame: Banshee Legend II
Fork: Manitou Dorado Pro  / Rockshox BoXXer WC
Rear shock: Rockshox Vivid Air (240mm x 76mm) (9.5″x3.0″)
Seatpost: Loaded X-Lite
Saddle: WTB Valcon (Silverado Syndicate on order)
Cane Creek XX II headset
Stem: Loaded AmX direct mount / Answer -ONE (not shown at this time)
Bar: Loaded AmX riser bar (790mm / 31″) / Answer ProTAPER 780 DH
Bar Grips: ODI Ruffian
Brakes: Formula ONE 208mm rotors F/R / Avid Code (not shown)
Shifters: SRAM XO 1×10
Wheels: Mavic Deemax Ultimate
Tires: ITS 26 x 2.5″ Invader tires
Cranks: Truvativ Descendant / GXP BB 83mm 165mm lengths
Cassette: SRAM OG 1090
Chain: SRAM PC1091
Pedals: Xpedo XMX12AC
Extras: Alloy rotor bolts from Ashima, Titanium hardware for brakes, Titanium hardware for rear shock.

Based on a few early test rides I’ve found this bike loves all the lightweight components; in particular the lighter Deemax wheels actually showed increased precision and tracking. I love pitching the bike in corners and the feeling of control I get with the bike in the air. In the hands of a pro rider I can imagine some spectacular whips coming outta this bike!

One interesting thing I noticed so far is that for my body type (5’9″, 190lbs with 31″ inseam and regular arm length), a 50mm or 45mm stem works well with a riser bar; otherwise, running a 55mm stem with a flatter bar works equally well. A 30-31 inch bar seems to offer a good mix between control while limiting over-steering.

Speaking of control, I found with a properly tuned suspension I didn’t get a lot of the diving I normally expect from a long-legged trail machine. Keeping my weight centered or further back and nailing the brakes coming into sharp corners, the bike remains civil without that pitch feeling I’ve had on other machines. The front and rear suspension work well together to keep this ride stable (time spent setting up the shocks is key!). And when things do get rough, I absolutely understand why so much time was involved in the development of this bike. The Legend II feels pretty forgiving – hitting rocks didn’t seem to be much of an issue. The bike tracked nicely over that kind of stuff.

Once I get more seat time in and experiment a little with settings and parts, I’ll post further updates. Stayed tuned for more!

Syncros offers their FR wheelset to the DH/Freeride crowd as a high quality wheelset for a reasonable price. Back in the spring I previewed this wheelset so if you missed it or want to check out the specs, click here. Many of the top riders on the North Shore ride these wheels so I was excited to test them out for myself. My tests took place on the toughest, roughest trails in Whistler, on the North Shore and in Kelowna.

The Ride

The first thing you notice about these wheels is their distinctive styling – the white really pops out on the trail and in pictures and sets your bike apart from the rest. But as soon as you saddle up, what you’ll really appreciate is that the bearings roll fast and the hubs are smooth – and they remained so through the duration of my tests.

I tested these wheels under the most extreme conditions possible, mounting them on my Banshee Legend MKII and pounding them mercilessly on the rough, rock strewn, jump infested trails around Vancouver, British Columbia. I have a “plow through anything” mentality and at 6’3”, 195 lbs, my equipment takes far more abuse than the average rider dishes out. Given the extreme nature of the testing, the Syncros FR wheels held up fairly well.

I did my best to destroy these wheels. I rode them down steep rock faces, big jumps, rough landings and rock strewn race courses. They sustained some damage during testing but never catastrophically failed.

The front wheel still runs straight and true after 3 months of testing and only 1 spoke needed re-tensioning. Rear wheels always take more punishment than the front and this showed during testing. My first flat spot occurred early on but after tightening the spokes and straightening the rim, the wheel was good to good go for another month until I encountered a particularly nasty race course that resembled a dry riverbed. That trail, combined with a few more weeks on the shore and in Whistler, caused a couple more flat spots in the rear rim. By then the rim was pretty haggared and the flat spots caused the spokes to loosen prematurely.

The largest flat spot occurred at the seam which is pinned with no welding like some more robust wheels on the market. Welding the seam instead of just using sleeves would greatly increase the strength of this rim (but the trade-off is this would probably increase the price). That being said, I put these wheels through hell and they held up better than many other wheels I’ve tested.

The Verdict

If you’re looking for a relatively strong, middle-weight DH wheelset that won’t break the bank, consider the Syncros FR wheels. They aren’t nukeproof but will be plenty strong for the average downhiller or freerider. As long as you’re not casing lots of jumps or mindlessly plowing into rock gardens, these wheels should last a solid season or more.

Thanks to Syncros for providing these wheels for testing.

For 2011, SRAM is offering 10spd drivetrains throughout the line but that doesn’t mean they’ve dropped the 9spd option and for good reason – the nine speed drivetrains still work great. Choosing the best option is really about what you want to get out of your bike.

Usually whenever people talk about drivetrains they’re talking about both front and rear systems (2×10, 3×9, etc.). But what about drivetrains for slopestyle bikes? You know, those over-sized freeride and downhill mountain bikes that mostly just go down the hill.

For those who aren’t familiar, the term freeride means to make it down a hill on a bike with no rules and no set course using the most creative lines possible. Today’s freeride bikes are pure art with about 7 inches of travel yet they’re still capable of responding to tight and twisting turns. Because freeride bikes mostly ride downhill they typically don’t need a front derailleur and feature a beefed up chain retention system around the crank. So the driveline is usually a 1×9 set up – but what about 1×10?

Well to explore the differences, I installed the 2011 9spd X0 and the 2011 10spd X0 on my Opus Nelson and Banshee Legend II. No front derailleurs allowed – just a set of proper retention devices up front to protect the chains, rings and cranks (I really like the e*thirteen retention devices since they’re both lightweight and tough as nails).

Since both bikes are mainly used for riding down hill, I set up each using a tight DH-oriented cassette. For the 9spd drivetrain I used SRAM’s PG 970 (11-23) cassette and for the 10spd I used the SRAM OG-1090 (11-25) cassette (yup, that’s from the top tier Red group). The Red group cassette was pretty damn expensive (about $250) so you may want to consider that when choosing a 10spd cassette. The OG-1090 comes in at 160g compared to the less expensive but heavier, 225g 10spd PG-1070.

I also wanted to get maximum clearance from rocks and branches so I configured both drivetrains with  short cage derailleurs which are recommended for FR/DH applications (plus I get even more weight savings). Now both the 9spd and 10spd X0 systems share technologies and some material choices. Adjustments are identical between the two but that’s about where it ends.

The new 10spd X0 rear derailleur is very different from the 9spd version. The new forged link design and maximized knuckles offer an improvement over previous designs and the new pulley cage is pretty bling too. Just like the 9spd derailleur, the 10spd features a carbon outer cage, just without the flashy carbon weave as a finish layer.

Setting up both systems is pretty much the same – cable routing, housing lengths, and limit screw settings are critical for optimal performance. With everything on a DH bike vibrating to hell and back, taking your time here is a good thing. I did find the 10spd set-up took a few minutes longer than the 9spd which might sound surprising at first. But think about it: You want to control 10 gears in the same space where there were 9 gears before and something has to improve for this to work. That something is precision. Cable tension here is paramount – a small amount of tension one way or the other could toss everything off. I also found the spacing between the cassette and derailleur pulley to be critical which can add to the set-up time.

Once the derailleurs have been set and the limit screws all taken care of, installing the chains took just a few minutes. The 10spd chains use what is called the “Powerlock” link instead of the “Powerlink” used with 9spds chains. Once you get your chain to the right length, the Powerlock link locks the chain together (a one time shot, unlike the Powerlink which can be reset). Try to get the chain length right the first time before locking it in place or else have a few Powerlocks handy.

At the shifter end, things look very similar. Both shifters have the same feel to them and feature an adjustable shift lever. Installing the cable in each is simple and straightforward – just remove the “impulse” cover screw and thread the cable.

The anodized Redwin finish on the 9spd X0 is flawless as is the jet black and red finish on the 10spd. The little extra bits of titanium and stainless steel hardware from SRAM also complement the look.

Now, the real question is: how did they perform? Well in a few words – great, fantastic, awesome. Truly, both systems worked well. They shifted quickly and efficiently once they were configured correctly. I noticed the 10spd up-shifted a bit faster (mostly due to the tighter spacing) and both systems worked equally as well under power and didn’t complain when the slopes got rough. The spring tension on both derailleurs worked well at keeping chains on cassettes.

I didn’t get a chance to test the drivetrains in muddy conditions this time (I’ve already broken both my clavicles and I’m really not in the mood to do that again) so I can’t really comment on mud shedding. I can tell you the larger ratio cassettes all have spider supports with plenty of space to clear out mud and debris while the tighter cassettes do not. The OG-1090 is made from a solid forged form of heat-treated chromoly that has been machined rather than drilled with mud-clearing relief holes. If you live in an area where it’s mostly dry this doesn’t matter much to you and for me, I try to stay off the slopes when it’s raining (too many slick rocks).

As far as durability is concerned, so far so good. I haven’t tanked it bad enough on the drive side of either bike to see anything snap off or even come up with scratch. The short cage derailleurs do a nice job tucking the drive train in and keeping it safe and improving clearances through rock gardens. I’m a little curious about what might happen to the carbon plate in the event of a crash so I’ll keep you posted if I unwittingly go into test mode.

Maybe in the near future when the 10spd becomes a standard on DH bikes, the good folks at SRAM will consider producing a version specifically for DH riders. Today the Santa Cruz Syndicate Steve Peat Replica bike is one of the few 10spd DH bikes on the market and it features a road cassette! (the PG-1070)

Thanks to SRAM for sending down the XO for testing. Check out SRAM.com for more details on the XO as well as other great products for 2011.

When it comes to gravity riders, depending on who you talk to you get two basic types: those who care about the weight of their rig and those who pretend not to care about weight. But let’s face it, weight kills performance: both on the rider and on the ride. The more weight the bike has to carry, the slower a rider can change direction and speed, which limits their performance wailing down slopes at speeds that would make Mario Andretti messa his shortsa.

Clearly Rockshox is familiar with speed (not the messing shorts bit) and based on their commitment to top riders on the World Cup circuit, they have come up with inventive ways to save on weight. And I’m not talking about small savings here – I’m talking about a good 400 grams in savings on a single component which is huge.

The Technology

Witness the Vivid Air RC2 mountain bike shock. Essentially RockShox found a way to convert a coil shock into an air shock, which wasn’t easy by any means. Think of it: trying to get an air spring to behave like a steel spring – seems like a daunting challenge. Taking a look at the exploded view below, you can see for yourself that it really isn’t very simple at all. But then again not everything can be.

While the Vivid Air may look a bit complex with its dual air chambers, it’s basically very similar to the original Vivid coil shock. A modified shock body (J) has been machined smooth and now serves as part of the air spring. Parts (A)-(E) as well as (N) belong to the dual chamber air spring. Everything else is pretty much the same as the Vivid coil. All of this combines to achieve a coil spring-like feel – minus the heavy coil. Comparing spring rates between the Vivid Air and the Vivid coil shows they are nearly the same with the exception of the last few millimeters in travel where the Vivid coil ramps up a touch faster than the Vivid Air.

What you don’t see in the new Vivid Air is the hot rod compensation pellet which is built into the bypass rod. When heated (during extended runs), the pellet expands and adds additional rebound force. Some of you might scoff and say plastic isn’t durable enough but rest assured, the hot rod is a well engineered addition to the rebound rod.

Adjustments

The Vivid R2C features a host of adjustments. The most obvious one is the air spring pressure which means no more pesky coil spring swaps. There’s also the external low speed compression adjustment plus beginning and end stroke adjustments. These four dials give you pretty much everything you need to get your rig wailing down them slopes pinned and sticking to the trail. What you don’t get (which you’ll need to purchase separately) are the frame adapters. I opted for the three piece solution rather than the two piece aluminum set; it’s a bit more costly but a longer-lasting solution for your bike.

Installation and Set-up

Looking at the Vivid Air you might assume it’s larger than a coil shock but that’s not really the case. The overall diameter is only a few millimeters larger than a coil shock but since you can’t see through the Vivid Air that makes it look bigger. Installation works the same as it does for any other unit out on the market today – just make sure you install the shock so that you can get to all the adjustments and make sure the reservoir doesn’t strike anything when your suspension moves. Install the shock with no air and cycle the suspension to make sure you’re clear – easy peasy.

Setting up the Vivid Air is pretty much the same process as the Vivid coil except that you’re going to add or remove air from the single valve on the air can (it sets up the negative spring automatically via internal compensation ports). In my case I needed 30% sag on my Banshee Legend II, so knowing the stroke of the shock (76mm) and multiplying it by 0.30 I get the sag measurement (76mm x 0.30= 23mm). With that I just added air into the shock until I reached my measurement. Unfortunately the Vivid Air doesn’t have the sag gradients that grace many other Rockshox products; instead the gradients are printed on the reservoir sticker

With the sag set, it was time to head out to the slopes to fully set up the shock. Using my experience with the Vivid coil shock, I started off with the compression settings and quickly found that the Legend got a lot of traction with 4 clicks on the compression dial. The terrain that I was riding featured a mix of rocky, rooted terrain with hard patches and soft stuff in and around. With this set up I found I had good control over the wheel on the rough stuff while still tracking the terrain nicely.  On landing big jumps, the compression setting did well controlling the bike without too much fuss.

After the compression was set I started looking at the rebound settings. I tuned the beginning  stroke rebound (which plays a major roll on rockgardens) so that I didn’t get a bucking sensation out back when the wheel tried to return after those hits. The sweet spot for me was right about 9 clicks.

Lastly I set the end stroke rebound (for bigger hits) which was by far the most fun to set up. Essentially I was sessioning a few jumps and dialing the shock until I ended up at 5 clicks. I found the Banshee and the Vivid worked great together, mostly due to the initial rear wheel travel (designed into the geometry) which gave great control over the bike when hitting harder, squared-edged stuff. This also allowed me to dial back on the adjustments, resulting in more wheel sensitivity without sacrificing control.

Overall the Vivid Air feels great and performs like a champ. As a result I have a bike that is a pound and a half lighter, I don’t have to play with springs, and I have good control over my bike with a coil-like feeling. I’m definitely looking forward to playing around with the Vivid Air to see how much more I can get out of it in the future. The only drawback I can see is that the price for the Vivid Air is a few dollars more than the coil version. At about $630 MSRP it’s not cheap but to get a coil shock down to race weight the only other option is to upgrade to a titanium spring (which adds another $200 at least). To me that makes the Vivid Air a great value.

I would like to thank Tyler Morland and the good folks at Rockshox for setting up the Vivid Air for a review.

Looking at the photo above you might be thinking: are these Avid Codes?!? Yup they sure are. Totally revamped and improved for 2011 and you can see the difference right away. Gone is the clunky over-sized design; instead, the new Codes feature a sleek, lightweight profile that is very close in concept to the rest of the Avid brake line up. Fortunately the Codes keep many of the unique features that make them durable and reliable enough for gravity riders.

Crashing is inevitable for those who ride the slopes at high speed and the new Avid Code brake levers still feature the “Bend Zone” that allows the lever to flex which prevents damage to the lever body. The new levers also feature the same ultra-durable, 3-cartridge bearing pivot system as the previous generation Codes.

The 2011 Code system weighs in at 410 grams for the 160mm post mount version and the updated lever sports the same Taperbore technology as the rest of the 2011 Avid brake line-up. The integrated reservoir and pad contact adjustment is also featured on the new Codes as is an adjustable reach knob (shown above). The adjustable reach option is a wise addition to the brake since DH riders often have widely varying preferences for lever-to-bar distances. The new finish and graphics are something to behold – the whole set-up almost looks like surgical equipment!

The new Avid Codes still utilize a four piston caliper but this time around they feature a top loading pad (my personal favorite feature on a brake – other than stopping) and a caliper that has had a bit of the fat trimmed off with an adjustable banjo for that perfect fit. The caliper is a forged 2-piece unit that uses two bridge bolts compared to the four bolts that were used in previous versions. Thanks to the re-design, the new caliper is just as stiff or even stiffer. For friction material you’re getting a steel backing plate with organic linings which makes for a quieter brake. Inside, the brakes are running on DOT 5.1 fluid which keeps things crisp with great modulation. The Tri-align mounting system is perfect for frames that may not be perfectly straight and allows you to install the brakes in a fraction of the time it might normally take.

Speaking of installation, you get everything you need for each brake (front and rear) – just make sure to order the correct version for your needs and application. Although the calipers and levers are the same for front and rear, the hose lengths, rotors, and adapters are different. My set (shown above) came with front and rear 203mm G3 Cleansweep rotors. Following the easy instructions from Avid (these seem to get better every year), make sure you pay attention to the rotor bolt “star” installation section. Torque the T25 bolts down with a torque wrench and your rotor is good to go.

Following that, install the adapters as needed, and torque them in place. Finally, you’re ready to install the brakes to your bike. You can either fasten down the caliper or the levers first; I like to start with the calipers so I can run the cables exactly the way I want. Install the CPS caliper hardware loosely at first and run the cables up to the bars, fastening them to the frame with cable ties. [Side note: I used to love those snaps that some frames come with until mine popped off at the wrong time and I got a hose torn off. Lesson learned.] Now, at the bar end it’s just a matter of setting the correct angle and spacing, fastening the split clamp down with the supplied stainless steel hardware and torquing everything in place. Lastly, if necessary, shorten the hose.

The chart below shows the subjective brake performance of the new 2011 Avid Codes.

Once all that assembly stuff was out of the way I had to take these brakes out on the trail. This time around I installed the brakes on a brand new bike – my Banshee Legend II project bike – so I really didn’t know what to expect. Having ridden the older Codes (and honestly not liking them), I had a dim view of what was to come.

After putting these brakes to the test I’m happy to say the new Codes ride very differently than the older units. Avid really improved the brakes’ modulation – previous models worked more like on/off switches in many cases. I guess the revamped lever was part of the trick. Now when I ride I can play with the lever a bit to better control the wheel and I can still stop the bike in a hurry. After burnishing the pads I found I got surprisingly high levels of stopping power.

I also got a nice feel throughout the stroke when applying the brakes. At first contact there seems to be a very quick build of friction and stopping power with a high amount of torque. In some cases I found that I had to ease off the lever a touch as torque continued to build from the pads heating up. The second I got off the lever, the release was immediate with zero drag. Doing this often on some other brakes often leads to brake fade. Even over long runs the lever never went mushy. The Codes are definitely “one-finger brakes” thanks to the high braking forces – perfect for those of us who love gravity, are on the heavier side, or are just plain hard on our brakes.

Overall the 2011 Avid Code brakes ($235 MSRP) are impressive and offer a big upgrade over previous generations. Improved modulation, durable construction, and consistent performance make these a great choice for anyone who rides hard.

Thanks to the folks at Avid for sending down these brakes for a review.

Hi folks, I hope you enjoyed the Holiday Season. I also hope Santa was good to you as well. So… what did you do over the break? Anything interesting show up under the tree for ya? I ended spending some time over the break at Joyride 150, an indoor bike park up in Toronto, Canada much like the two Ray’s down in the States. I gotta say, indoor bike parks are a good idea for the whole family because there’s something for everyone.

I ended up riding indoors 4 times in 2 weeks, taking my XC, trail and DJ bikes out for spins. I rode just about everything they had to offer from the two pump tracks on my DJ bike to the challenging skinnies on my trail bike to the XC track with my XC bike. Joyride also has progressive jumps and a vert park for those who dare to enjoy air. Believe it or not, indoor riding is a great way to stay in shape and sharpen up your riding skills during the “off season.” I spent a ton of time learning a sweet new tail whip move on the progressive jumps, something I always wanted to do on the slopes but was a bit too shy to try. The idea of sucking dirt and rocks just doesn’t appeal to me so a controlled environment like the one at Joyride (high skill, low consequence) is perfect for building skills.

During some of my visits to Joyride 150 there up to 280 riders, not to mention families hanging around and watching everything from a few folks honing their trials skills to others nailing 360-degree backflips and tail whips into the foam pit. The great thing about many indoor parks is that they’re usually close enough to a hotel and other attractions that can add to the experience of your mini vacation if you have to travel. Fortunately I live very close by so I get to ride pretty much whenever I like!

Mark Summers, one of the owners at Joyride 150, explained how he got the idea to open the place after taking his own mini vacation a few years back with his family. He said he loved the idea so much they had to do it here (Toronto) and it was just a matter of finding a location big enough to do it (Joyride is 80,000 sq ft). These days Joyride is well established and has partnered with local hotels for deals and family packages. This, in turn, has lured more and more out of state visitors.

Well needless to say I continue to have a great time at Joyride and find that I use the facilities often when testing new products as well. I can always count on some of the key features to be there so I can evaluate products without second guessing if it’s the product or the terrain that is making a difference.

New MTB Gear

The photos below show a sneak peak of some hotly anticipated skid lids I just received. The new T2 from THE is for the gravity park folks and the new XAR is for all of you who want a lightweight XC / AM lid with superior protection and fit.

Speaking of products and parts and stuff – Santa (and his manufacturing reps) recently sent out some of the new 2011 items for product review. Look for product tests from Giro, POC, THE, Mavic, Fox and more to help you gear up for the upcoming riding season!

Looking further into 2011, we also have more cool contests on tap as well. Thanks to your word of mouth, singletracks has been growing and with growth comes notoriety (which helps us get great prizes for giveaways). Just above is my Opus Nelson FR bike which this year is sporting the all new Fox 36 Talas 180 FIT RC2 and a SRAM XO 9spd drivetrain in red.

My DH project bike, the Banshee Legend II, has been coming along nicely as well. Here is a glory shot of the bike just waiting to hit the slopes! The build now comes in at just a hair over 36lbs. with dual ply rubbers from ITS. The new Mavic Deemax Ultimate wheels, in case you’re wondering, are under 2,000 grams (1,965).

We’re stoked for mountain biking in 2011 and hope you are too! Stay tuned and stay well everyone.

Happy New Year.

Today I have something from Truvativ that has just been “declassified” from the company’s Blackbox technology group. The Descendant crank has actually been around since 2009 and was initially tested by Peaty himself. And unlike some cranks out there that are all about the bling, the Descendant crank is all about the business of performing on the slopes.

The Descendant crank arms are made from forged AL-7050-TV, the same material that’s regularly used in aerospace landing gear and bulkhead construction. The cranks share the same forging technology and design techniques as the Holzfeller but that’s basically where the similarities end. Truvativ managed to get the Descendant’s weight down to 822 grams which is especially impressive considering that the SRAM X9 crankset that I reviewed just a little while back comes in heavier at 845 grams. Sure the X9 has two chain rings but remember, the Descendant is made for the gravity crowd where parts have to be beefier, stiffer, and stronger. Just think about it – that’s about 240 grams lighter than the Holzfeller, 150 grams lighter than Saint, and 100 grams lighter than RaceFace Atlas FR!

Of course weight savings are great but they don’t mean squat if a crank can’t endure the abuse of DH and FR mountain biking. On any bike the crankset is the most important link between man and machine and it’s really a spot where you don’t want unnecessary flexing. Fortunately the Descendant over-delivers on the promise of high strength and stiffness (more on that later).

Another great thing about the new Descendant crank is the options that are offered. With three crank arm lengths (165, 170, 175mm) and two chain ring options (36 or 38) along with 73mm or 83mm bottom bracket options you’re pretty much covered. Now speaking of the bottom bracket (a sore spot for many cranks), the new Team GXP bottom bracket comes with Gutter seal technology and a new forged cup design. The gutter seal basically keeps junk out and reduces seal drag which means more power goes toward turning the crank instead of overcoming drag.

Unlike multi-ring cranks, the chain ring on the Descendant doesn’t feature shift ramps. Instead, the rings are machined from AL-7075 T and cut to a 4mm thickness so they’re still compatible with the present 8, 9, or 10spd systems. The chain ring is held in place with steel bolts and I opted to run an e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention system rather than risk bashing off the frame’s ISCG tabs. Although it might look better to show off the crank and ring, I decided to work with the strength of the crank’s spindle and bolted up the bash guard there instead. Besides, it’s cheaper to replace a bash guard than to replace a frame if the tabs get bent.

Installing the cranks was a piece of cake using a standard 16-notch external BB tool. Follow the easy to understand, full color instructions for proper spacer installation. Also remember to use a high quality grease to lube the cups before installation and add a touch of lube to the spindle before installing the non-drive side of the crank. As always, torque everything down precisely using a digital torque wrench like the D-Torq DX from Topeak. Remember, when it comes to torque, too much of a good thing is no good at all.

Hitting the Trail

I was really impressed with the solid feel of the Descendant crank on my Banshee Legend II. While hitting step-downs and decent-sized jumps I immediately noticed the stiffness of the cranks upon landing. I had no worries about things bending because I really didn’t felt much flex at all. Even when pedaling hard on the flats the crank felt rock solid with zero visible wobble. Even after casing it a more than a few times and bashing the cranks on rock gardens, the cranks stayed straight with just a few scratches on the ends of the crank arms.

Let’s face it, if the Descendant crankset is good enough to carry pro mountain bikers like Peaty to 17 podium finishes, 7 world cup wins, and the top three places the 2009 World Championships, it’s good enough for you and me. At just $185 MSRP you’re getting a lot of crank for your money.

Thanks to the folks at Truvativ for sending up the Descendant crank for review.

Pssst – hey you on that DH bike – wanna drop some weight and increase performance on your rig? I though so. At 5.98lbs, the BoXXer WC is probably the lightest 200mm DH fork on the market today – the next closest contender I know of is the 6.4lb Manitou Dorado MRD – so you’re looking at a good half pound off that front end of yours. The weight savings alone are huge but there are many more refinements to be had with the Rock Shox World Cup BoXXer.

Let’s start with the outside of the fork and work our way in. The BoXXer is available in 4 colors this year: red, white, and black plus the new super cool Keronite finish. Keronite is basically a very hard ceramic finish that can be applied to aluminum, magnesium, and titanium. The process is similar to that of a plasma coating except it’s far more advanced and precise. The process actually works at a molecular level, changing the base material to a ceramic surface, resulting in a super hard surface with enhanced base material properties. Having had a few of my projects treated with Keronite, I can say it is simply amazing.

Other external changes include re-tooled knobs to save weight and new graphics with the World Cup championship colors. The familiar etched graphics on the stanchions and pressure chart on the fork leg are nice touches and help with sag set up on the go. The BoXXer features post mounts to increases the stiffness of the brake assembly over older IS standards; many of the newer brakes being produced are post mount compatible.

Internally the BoXXer has a host of new features over last year’s 2010 model. For one thing, RockShox put the fork under a microscope to reduce friction (something of a bother from last year’s model). The engineers looked at everything from seals to bushings and re-designed the damper cartridge and the Solo air spring assembly to eliminate friction points. RockShox kept the 35mm 7000 series aluminum stanchions, which are hard anodized for long life and lower friction (stiction), the lower magnesium legs with the power bulge, and of course the high performance Maxle Lite DH 20mm axle.

The re-worked Dual Flow adjustment (high – low speed rebound) and the tuned Mission Control DH valving (high-low speed compression) really perk up this fork for 2011. Although it takes a bit of time to set everything just right, the effort really pays off in the end. The re-worked valving truly changes how the fork behaves over fast, rough terrain and absorbs the larger features that you’ll find anywhere. The internals sport a totally upgraded Solo unit (which can be retro-fitted into the 2010 model, though not the Race version), but unfortunately the new damper won’t fit – sorry. I checked simply because I have a few friends who own the 2010 WC and they were interested in upgrading after riding my 2011 version.

Installing the BoXXer WC (1-1/8″ aluminum steering tube) was pretty easy – it’s just a matter of measuring twice and cutting once. As always, read the manual and torque the bolts in place with a quality torque wrench. Remember spacing between crowns must be 156mm ±2mm. The minimum the stanchion length is exposed on the top crown is 2mm so before cutting the steering tube (if you’re going with a direct mount stem) it must extend 2mm from the top of the upper crown. Other than that business, all is good.

Dialing it in

Setting up the BoXXer WC took a good solid day of riding plus a break-in period. I found the fork needed a little time to get everything seated and felling creamy smooth. With the BoXXer it’s important to follow the RockShox tuning recommendations to get the fork set up right – that is, unless you have your own world-cup tech on speed dial. Get the air spring pressure set first (sag) by jouncing the fork a few times to equalize the pressures in the positive and negative chambers. I found the BoXXer-specific pump to be great – the large air volume this pump delivers is helpful – otherwise you might be there all day with a standard shock pump.

Once the sag is set it’s time to configure the beginning stroke rebound dampening (first 25% of travel). This really should be done on the trail and not on the streets. Find a familiar section of trail and session it. Add one or two clicks at a time to the small knob on the bottom (hold the larger knob to keep it from turning). You want the fork to return fast, but not so fast that it stings the hands or feels like it’s going to toss you off the bike. Next, set the end stroke rebound (for coming off bigger hits) where the travel range goes from 25% to 100%. Again, you’re looking to avoid getting bucked off the bike. Too much of either the high or low speed rebound and you get what’s called packing down – basically losing more and more travel with every hit.

Now, set up the low and high speed compression. Low speed compression allows you to to balance trail sensitivity and fork dive – basically changing how the fork feels. Too much compression and the fork tends to skip over some of the bumps and feels very harsh; too little and the fork dives when hitting the brakes and cornering. Once you get the low speed set, dial in the high speed setting for big drops, rock gardens at speed, etc. The goal here is to get maximum control over the wheel. You don’t want the fork to blow though the travel on the big hits so add more compression until you get a controlled compression. Too much snaps the wrists back and stings; too little and it feels like the bike bogs down and gets wallowy.

The final setting is the end stroke adjuster which changes the volume of the air chamber during the fork’s last 20% of travel. Reducing the volume will ramp up the spring rate, yielding a more progressive feel. This is one of those settings that is totally subjective, depending on the rider. If I was going from a drop to flat I would add more end stroke (for my 200lb. weight I’d add about 4 turns).

Ok, even though some of this might sound more complicated than a NASA checklist, don’t worry. The tuning guide that RockShox includes is easy to follow and understand and Rockshox encourages you to play with the settings. I ended up downloading the guide and printing out a few of the “My Favorite Setting” charts to remember what I liked best during testing. All the controls were easy to use except the bottom out dial – I recommend having a 2.5mm allen key handy and being prepared to remove the air from the air spring to adjust it. I did take the knob off and added a tiny touch of synthetic lube to the seal before replacing it to see if that would help. This gave me marginal improvement and was really the only small issue I found with this fork.

Hitting the Trail

I installed the BoXXer WC on my Banshee Legend II and it definitely stepped up the Legend’s game. Once the fork was broken in I spent a bit of time re-setting the dials and had a really good time. The lightness of the fork really made it easy to control the bike and on low speed, technical rock gardens and general gnar I felt consistent control over my front wheel.

Taping the powerful 2011 Code brakes would cause almost any bike to dive like a submarine but I found with the compression set midway at 6 clicks and the low speed at 4 clicks, the fork struck a good balance between traction and control. Even on taxing rock gardens where the suspension travel got a real workout I still maintained perfect control over the bike without having it pack down underneath me. On rock gardens there’s always the chance of a glance causing the bike to slip sideways; some forks will twist in this situation. On the BoXXer I didn’t notice any flex – the bike always tracked where I wanted it to go.

Big hits with the BoXXer were just too fun. The lighter weight allowed me to move the bike a bit more without a lot of extra body effort. The lighter weight also seemed to increase performance of the bike as well. A lighter fork reduces sprung mass to a degree, particularly if the reduction in mass is on the fork lowers.

Overall the BoXXer WC works very well and any racer should be happy with this unit with little worry about maintenance. So my last two cents? Try 0ne out for yourself,  I’m sure you will be impressed. If you have a 2010 model and don’t want to fork out the cash for a new one, get yourself the air cartridge (fits WC and Team models only) for a nice performance boost.

Ok, so how much does this wonder of modern mountain bike technology cost? Well as far as world class forks are concerned, I can say the BoXXer is right in line at $1,700 MSRP. Now if that is a bit more than you can afford, test out the Team or Race versions. These forks are a bit heavier and feature a coil spring which can be more difficult to tune but are definitely worth a look.

A big thanks to Tyler Morland from RockShox for setting sending up the BoXXer WC for a review. Another thanks to my good friend Michael Chan for taking those snowy shots. Stay tuned for a write up on a few other exciting products from Rockshox as well as SRAM. Next up: the Rockshox Vivid Air.

Ohhh yeah! Finally, after what seemed like ages of waiting, my Banshee Legend II is ready to ride – and this past weekend I got to break it in. After the final parts arrived on Wednesday while I was work, I spent the evening getting everything cut, measured, installed, and torqued in place (more on that in a few).

A project bike like the Banshee Legend II is not something you can slap together and hope for the best. It’s important to look at what you’re going to be doing with a bike like this before you even spec the first part. Flying over rock gardens, drops, step ups, and almost anything else, you gotta make sure the bike (and you!) survive.

Just after arriving home from Interbike back in September, I was stoked to unbox the Banshee Legend II frame. At that point I already had some of the major components handy so I got most of the bike assembled. I installed a Cane Creek XXc headset and moved my Dorado fork over to the new rig. With a frame that’s worth a lot of $$, you may want to get a pro to do this part of the build, or at least invest in a headset press. I added an Answer DH direct-mount stem and my favorite handlebars, the Answer 780 DH, which pretty much completed the front end.

For stopping power I installed a set of Formula ONE brakes and the like-new Havoc DH wheel set I had on hand from last year (gotta hand it to Easton for building such a great set of wheels).

Then, a few weeks back a nice box of components arrived at my doorstep from SRAM with X.O shifting and the new Descendant crank (same one Peaty rides with). Now some may wonder why I decided to put a 10-speed drivetrain on a DH bike (many riders may argue a 9 or even 6 speed cassette is good enough). Three reasons: I’m not interested in butchering a cassette just to get a six-speed drivetrain, 10-speed spacing is tighter so shifting speed increases, and, perhaps most importantly, I’m no pro so I need a few extra gears when I actually have to pedal on the flats.

After another long night of installation and getting all the gears perfect and shifting amazingly on the stand, I had to wait on a rear shock and possibly a matching front fork. Well just last week a rather large box arrived, once again from SRAM. I got everything I needed to finish up the Legend plus two other bikes I’m building for next season (get ready for some interesting reviews and great products). This delivery added the new Vivid Air RC2, the BoXXer WC, and the new Code brakes. So yup, I had work to do. Off with the Dorado and on with the BoXXer as well as installing the Vivid and the new Codes. Looking at the bike I realized that this is turning out to be an almost all-SRAM DH bike.

Finishing off the bike with pedals, grips, saddle, and seatpost, I was still a few hours away from completion. Getting the cable and hose lengths just right is important and shouldn’t be rushed. After all, perfection is in the details so I ended up using Gore cables (love those so much!) for the rear derailleur to make sure the shifting is as smooth as possible. In fact these cables from Gore are a bit different from previous versions; unfortunately I can’t tell you how yet (they’re still top-secret). Anyhow, I also spent some time bleeding the Codes after I shortened the hoses; now I was ready for testing!

This weekend I took the Legend II to a local area where I could do some DH pre-testing (rock gardens, step downs, jumps, gaps and table tops abound). After a few runs I realized many of the components need a break-in period before they’re operating at full performance. Needless to say I still had a blast and I can’t wait to get more serious test rides in on my project bike.

I am very greatful to everyone who helped make this bike happen. Folks like Tyler Morland (Avid, Rockshox) Morgan Meredith (SRAM), Jay MacNeil (Banshee), Lois Mabon (Gore), Richard Travis (Manitou), Tom Porter (Answer), Christoph Vogl (Formula), Toby Henderson from THE, and Mark Reidy who reps Easton.

Stay tuned for more reviews on these great products and hopefully some more great AM-DH reviews on other items not yet installed!

Cheers

This year I’ve been sporting THE Industries’ Storm protective gear on the trail and I’m happy to say I’ve avoided injury so far. In fact my wife is probably the most appreciative – she gets pissed every time I come home with a broken bone. I was lucky enough to get the upper suit guard and lower two-piece F-1 guards hot off the production line which has given me plenty of time to put this gear through its paces.

Earlier this year I had a nasty crash after casing a large step down (about 10 ft) and I did a perfect 720° degree rotation according to my buddy. I got up from the crash without a scratch anywhere that was covered with protection. Other than nailing some soft tissue on the seat of the bike, everything was OK and I was up and going the next few days. Some spectators thought for sure I had broken a bone or two but sure enough, the Storm gear did its job perfectly.

Upper Suit Guard

So let’s talk details. Starting off with the Upper Suit Guard, you get a form fitting mesh fabric as a base with one zipper which allows you to get in and out without much difficulty. There are basically four main elements to the protection on the upper armor: front chest pad, armored back, shoulder cups, and two-piece elbow/forearm protectors.

The front chest pad attaches directly to aeroprene and is not removable. It’s flexible enough that it doesn’t distract you when you ride unlike other systems that can feel like you have a plastic plate hanging off your jersey. The pad is split enough to allow it to move with you and conforms to your body as you bend and move.

The armored back panel reminds me of an armadillo’s shell. Like many others on the market, the back protection is articulated to allow for body movement. This section is a generous 9-inches wide, traveling from the base of the neck to the small of the back, all over a backing of vented aeroprene. To hold everything in place the guard is zipped up top to the fabric and velcro-ed to the waist belt at the bottom.

The shoulder cups and two-piece elbow and forearm protectors are permanently attached to the shirt. Underneath each of these hard points you have also have aeroprene to take the edge off impacts while giving the suit an overall comfortable fit.

Two Piece Knee and Shin Guards

This year THE added two piece knee and shin guards to the Storm line-up. I actually got a chance to play with both the pre-production and final versions so it was neat to track the changes that were made to improve the comfort and utility. For example, the pre-production units straps that were a bit too short (read: tight), especially for riders on the north side of say 160 lbs. The final version also addressed a small issue with the buckle that was causing a slight bunching at the strap.

There are two major points on each knee/shin guard plus one smaller one, all of which are fixed to padding that’s both comfortable and breathable. The hard points are riddled with micro-vent holes to allow airflow which results in a cooler feeling pad.

Performance

Using and abusing the Storm Protective Gear on the slopes and trails all around Ontario I can say these units got a good season of usage. The funny thing about reviewing items like armor is that if you’re lucky you can go an entire season without actually experiencing an accident which can make it tough to put things to the test. And no, I haven’t considered purposely crashing as part of my testing process.

Fortunately I did have a few organic over-the-bar excursions plus plenty of arm and shoulder checks against trees and brush. I also experienced the occasional run-in with rocks and some bar wrenching tree hits – you know, the usual stuff. From all that I can happily say this year I didn’t break a bone and where the armor covered me I didn’t get a single bruise or scrape. Now spots where the armor left off (like my thighs and butt) did sustain some damage but that’s another story.

THE claims the Storm Protective Gear is cool running and for the most part it is, though there were definitely times when I broke a sweat in my full get-up. On the longer runs I was generally able to cool down to a more comfortable level – remember, it’s all about air flow. For more mellow runs I typically go with just the shin and elbow guards for maximum comfort. Surprisingly my legs always felt fresh without a hint of being hot with the guards on. I did notice when using the knee and shin guards together the second strap from the top bunched up a bit and felt uncomfortable at times. To remedy that I simply didn’t use it which didn’t affect the performance of the guard.

The Storm Protective Gear – both the upper and lower gear, as well as the elbow guards – are well thought out and are definitely worth the coin. At $149.99 MSRP for the F-1 Upper Suit and $79.99 MSRP for the F-1 Storm two-peice knee and shin guard, you get good protection at a reasonable price. And if you don’t see yourself sailing between the trees and rocks at high speeds, you can cover just your arms with forearm and elbow guards for $59.99.

I love the protection and performance I got this summer from THE’s Storm Protective Gear and I’m looking forward to what’s next from THE in the coming years! For solid body armor on the trail it’s hard to find a better value than THE Storm.

Thanks to the folks at THE for providing the Storm Protective gear and guards for review. For more information check out THE’s website.

The Red Bull Final Descent series wrapped up last week when 121 riders saddled up at Angel Fire Resort in New Mexico for a shot at $5,000 in cash prizes. The object was simple: complete the most downhill runs in 12 hours. The race ran into twilight hours which added an additional challenge as riders strapped on lights for the final laps. Exhaustion + darkness + DH racing = epic racing conditions.

Ryan Sutton of Crested Butte,CO  and Jackie Harmony of Sedona, AZ took home the Pro Solo honors with 33 and 31 laps respectively, and both swept the series in the process. The race format allows riders to choose from several courses to get down the mountain and only one rider / bike is allowed on each lift chair. If you’ve ever ridden DH at a lift-serviced resort you know it’s tiring – just getting in 5 runs is an epic day. These guys (and gals) did six-times that amount at Angel Fire!