You have probably heard terms like 3×9, 2×10, or 1×9 thrown around in discussions about mountain bike gearing. In case you are not familiar with the jargon, here is a quick review.

When someone says 3×9 (pronounced “three by nine”) they are referring to the setup of the chain rings and cassette on their bike. The number 3 is how many chain rings they have on the front and 9 is the number of cogs on the cassette. Therefore a 1×9 would be 1 chain ring and a 9 speed cassette, etc. You get the idea.

A typical 3×9 crankset from RaceFace.

Additionally, chain rings and cassettes come in different sizes. Both are measured by the number of teeth they have, and if you’re mathematically inclined you can use this info, along with the wheel diameter and length of your crank arms, to calculate your total effective gear ratio. I am not mathematically inclined, so let’s just skip that part.

For years mountain bikes have employed a triple front chain ring and a 7, 8, or 9 speed cassette. This is a tried and true design and it gives you an extremely low granny gear for long, steep climbs, and a decent big ring for haulin’ the mail on flat or downhill sections.

However, there are some limitations to this setup.

Weight: Three chain rings weigh more than two … or one.

Clearance: When crossing logs, rocks, etc, the big ring can scrape, and bent or broken teeth are generally the result. (On the chain ring, not necessarily your teeth.)

Crossing Your Chain: This is discussed at length in this forum post but here are the cliff notes. Every rear derailleur has a range of gears that it can handle. It is usually expressed as a number of teeth, and on a typical 3×9 system it will be somewhat less than the difference between your largest chainring and smallest cog, or vice versa. Shifting into one of these extremes will result in poor pedaling efficiency and will accelerate wear on your chain and gears.

Derailleur Cage Length: The greater the difference between your large and small gears, the longer your derailleur cage needs to be to take up the chain slack. The longer the derailleur cage is, the more likely it is to get whacked on stuff.

One obvious solution is to just get rid of the big ring and maybe replace it with a bashguard. Many riders, especially here in Colorado, have done just that, leaving the small and middle rings. This is a workable solution, however without that big ring, long stints on the flats can be really tedious.

A ‘ghetto’ 2×9 setup with a bashguard installed.

So what is a modern mountain biker to do?

Enter the 2×10 setup!

But wait, isn’t that essentially what the bashguard setup is? 

Not exactly…

A typical 3×9 setup will have something like a 44t-32t-24t chain ring setup, (t = number of teeth) and an 11-34t cassette. There are some variations such as older 8 speed cassettes with 11-30t or 32t, and newer 10 speed cassettes with 11-36t. The latter is the norm on most 29ers.

So what those clever bike engineers have done is take the traditional triple chain ring and “split the difference” with a two ring setup. The current offerings from SRAM employ a 26t-39t setup, whereas Shimano has a 26t-38t or a 28t-40t.

Okay, I get the concept, but why do I care?

Admittedly, a 2×10 setup is the very definition of compromise, as there isn’t as big of a big ring and the granny gear is a little less granny and a little more gear, but there are some advantages.

Weight: Comparing otherwise identical Race Face Turbine crank sets, the double shaves 55 grams off the weight of the triple.

Clearance: While not as radical as the old school two ring setup, the new style 2 speed cranks are still smaller than the traditional big ring so it will scrape less (and yes, there are bashguards for a 39t big ring).

Crossing Your Chain: This is my favorite feature. On a 2×10 setup you can use all 10 gears with either chain ring; there is no chain crossing. On the trail this simplicity is awesome.

Derailleur Cage Length: Depending on your exact setup, you can most likely get away with a shorter, mid cage rear derailleur.

I recently made the switch from 3×9 to 2×10 and I am completely sold on the concept, however, it may not be for everyone. The slightly smaller big ring isn’t much of an issue, but out here in the mountains the lack of a true granny gear is very noticeable. I found myself needing to keep up a slightly higher cadence in order to avoid stalling out when climbing. It was brutal at first, but once I got used to it, I really liked it. And after a month or so, I found myself significantly faster on climbs.

There is nothing wrong with a traditional 3 chain ring approach or a homebrew 2x with a bashguard, but if you’re bored with your current setup and want to shave a little weight while losing some complexity, then you should definitely give 2×10 a try.

It happens to the best of us… if you ride enough, it’s almost guaranteed that you’ll get saddle sores sooner or later. They’re uncomfortable, even painful, and they threaten to make every biking experience a nightmare, and in some cases they can keep you off your bike completely!

Simply put, they are the biker’s bane.

For those who don’t know, saddle sores come in 3 stages:

1. Skin abrasion.
2. “Folliculitis, which looks like small, reddish acne.”
3. Abscesses.

(Source)

I personally tend to catch them when they reach stage two, and I hope to high heaven that I never have to experience stage three! But the best defense is a good offense, and if you can prevent them and keep these sores to a minimum, then so much the better!

What sort of photos were you expecting?

Saddle Sore Prevention

1. Make sure your bike fit is correct
Team Judson says, “If your seat is too high, your hips rock on each pedal stroke and strum your soft tissue across the nose of the saddle. The result is irritated skin and a greater chance of infection.” Correct bike fit is a prerequisite for so many things related to excellent mountain biking that hopefully this is not an issue. If in doubt, see a professional fitter or your local bike shop.

2. Make sure you have a good saddle
The importance of having a high-quality saddle that fits your butt well cannot be understated! Of course, everyone prefers a different saddle because everyone’s butt is different. The key is to experiment, find a saddle that works well for you, and stick with it!

3. Ride a dualie
I personally had never had saddle sores… until this year. And this year is the first that I’ve spent most of my time riding hardtails. Coincidence? I think not. All of the jarring from the roots, rocks, and other trail obstacles is rough on your entire body, and particularly your taint. Riding a full suspension bike will drastically reduce the amount of rubbing taking place down there.

4. Choose a good chamois
Using a high-quality chamois will definitely improve your chances of avoiding the dreaded biker’s bane. Whatever you choose, make sure there are no seams in your chamois!

5. Keep clean
Try to always ride with a clean chamois. Re-using a dirty one will encourage growth of all sorts of nast-inducing bacteria. At the very least, make sure your chamois is dry. Riding with a pair of shorts that is still wet with yesterday’s sweat guarantees you’ll be rubbed raw!

6. Lube up
One of the best things you can do to reduce friction and avoid stage one (skin abrasion) is to lube up. There are expensive chamois creams available which are designed to provide maximum glide, but if you’re looking for a low-cost alternative, consider Vaseline.

7. Get clean when dirty
Try to get out of your riding shorts and get clean as soon as possible after a ride. Hanging out with your nether regions swimming in your own sweat is, again, an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. Even if you can’t shower immediately, at least make sure to change into dry clothes.

8. Ride less
Just kidding!

Saddle Sore Treatment

If you ride enough, you are bound to be afflicted with the Biker’s Bane at some point. While prevention is the best course of action, when the crotch-acne does strike, it’s crucial to know how to treat it properly.

1. Keep it clean
When you know for sure that you have saddle sores, doing all of the prevention steps mentioned above is infinitely more important! The last thing you want is for them to get any worse. Your main line of defense will be to keep your crotch as clean as a baby’s bottom (ok, cleanER than a baby’s bottom).

2. Medicate
Team Judson recommends that you “treat it with an over-the-counter acne gel containing 10% benzoyl peroxide. Perhaps even more effective is the topical prescription product called Emgel (erythromycin). If a sore is getting out of control, ask your doctor about a course of oral antibiotics.”

I would add that a simple triple antibiotic cream, if administered religiously, will also eliminate saddle sores. I haven’t personally tried any of the medications recommend by Team Judson, but maybe next time. (Please let there not be a next time!)

3. Ride a dualie
Yes, I know I already mentioned this under prevention. But if you’ve been riding a hardtail, switching over to a full suspension bike for a while can give your taint a much-needed break.

4. Stop riding
I was kidding when I mentioned this under “prevention,” but now I am dead serious. Taking a couple days off to heal up is much better than letting this progress to an even worse stage, which could possibly force you to take an even longer break from the bike. If you let the saddle sores get way, way out of control and they get seriously infected, you could even be facing surgery. Of course, that’s a worst-case scenario.

Conclusion

Saddle sores truly are one of the curses of our existence as bikers. I’ll spare you any more details about how uncomfortable they can be. But with the above prevention and treatment techniques, you can now do everything in your power to fight the bane and stay in the saddle as much as possible!

Do you have any tips or tricks to add to the lists above? Feel free to share them in the comments section below!

Ask any roadie and they will tell you that mountain bikers survive on a diet of burritos, pizza and beer or soda. While that is mostly true, it turns out that good nutrition helps out no matter what kind of cycling you do.

Food preferences are fairly subjective, so you will need to experiment a little to see what tastes good and works for you, but this should give you some ideas to try out.

There is a plethora of scientific research about sports nutrition, and if you are training for a race, you will want to consult an expert. This is intended to be a guide for recreational riders looking to do better than the stereotypical cheeseburger and Coke.

 photo credit: jameskadamson

Before the Ride

It is important to eat enough before a ride so you have the fuel to get started, but you don’t want anything so heavy that it will make you sick under heavy exertion. If I have a couple of hours before a morning ride, I will eat a breakfast burrito or sausage, egg and cheese bagel. But if I’m riding right away, I will instead do oatmeal or a bagel with cream cheese. Apples and bananas are also an excellent choice, or maybe even a pop-tart or cereal/granola bar, if that’s your thing. If coffee is your morning pick-me-up, have it, but also drink plenty of water or sports drink before you arrive at the trailhead. For an after work ride, I like a Clif bar or $0.99 chicken sandwich from the drive thru on my way to the trailhead.

During the Ride

Staying fueled and hydrated on the ride is crucial for avoiding cramps, headaches or outright bonking. While riding, try to eat one energy snack every 30-60 minutes in the saddle, depending on the intensity of the ride. I like to bring a hydration pack with water and a bottle with sports drink. I drink the water as needed throughout the ride, and the sports drink every time I stop for a break. In addition to flavor preferences, also consider the delivery method of various energy snacks. If you’re on a laid back rec ride with frequent stops, clif bars and other “hands-on” foods will be fine. If you’re in a race or any ride with minimal downtime, gels and other “one-handed” items are the ticket. For the latter situation, I love the Hammer Gel flask. It holds the equivalent of 5 packets of gel and the ounces are marked on the side for easy nutrition monitoring. I have also seen riders duct tape energy gel packets to their bike stem, allowing the packs to be ripped off / opened with one hand. The tabs don’t end up on the ground and the duct tape is available for trailside repairs if needed. Genius! But I still prefer the flask…

After the Ride

With all that extended effort behind you, your body will be craving fluids to make up for any hydration deficit, and protein to rebuild broken down muscle tissue. To kill two birds with one stone, check out a protein recovery drink like Hammer Nutrition Recoverite or Muscle Milk.

Now you can hit Sonic and grab that bacon double cheeseburger dripping with awesomeness. Or maybe a pizza is more to your liking. Chicken and fish are healthy alternatives, but whatever your preference, have a sensible meal, hydrate as much as needed, and check out the aforementioned protein drinks.or even regular milk.

As a side note, alcohol does not really help your biking nutrition in any way. It has no place on the actual ride, and it usually hurts more than it helps before or after. As always, use your head and enjoy responsibly and you’ll be fine. Just don’t expect to get rid of your beer gut with more beer.

Here are some energy foods I have tried and liked. Your preferences and mileage may vary.

• Hammer Nutrition Products – Hammer is a sponsor of a club I belong to so I have tried most of their stuff
• Gu
• Jelly Belly Sport Beans – great for kids
• Clif Shot Bloks – also great for kids
• Clif Bars
• Powerade
• Honey Stinger Waffles – these are 160 calories of pure awesomeness, soaked in honey. If you haven’t tried them yet, go get one right now!

As I mentioned before, taste preferences are purely subjective so I recommend making a trip to the local sporting goods store and getting one of each thing that looks interesting. Over your next few rides, see what tastes good. Learn what feels right in your body, and soon you’ll have your riding nutrition plan dialed in!

Logs – they’re a fundamental part of mountain biking in most areas of the country since where there are trees, there are trees that fall.  Many riders hate logs and would like to see all of them cut off the trails.  Others, like me, really enjoy riding them and are always wondering just how big we can go.  But part of enjoying riding logs is knowing how to ride them.  A few years ago trek7k wrote a post on a few different ways to ride over a log but in this post I’m going to provide a little more detail and insight into what he called the ‘speed hop’.

When you know how to ride them, logs are an enjoyable part of the mountain bike experience.  Photo: Brian Reynolds

The goal here is to get over the log as smoothly and safely as possible.  Done right, you don’t even have to slow down – if you’re quick enough and your timing is super precise.  This move can be used on all sorts of things, pretty much any time you have to go onto or over something.  Rocks, bridges, even curbs in your neighborhood can be ridden in style with the speed hop.  You can also ride some really big stuff this way.  This is, in my opinion, the best way to get over things tall enough to hit your chain ring.  Bashing your chainring into stuff is hard on you, your bike,and  your wallet plus it’s not smooth and it forces you to slow down.

The Approach

You want to be in the ready, or “attack” position: off the saddle, knees and elbows bent, weight centered over the bike, pedals level.  Do NOT try to ride over a log sitting down with your cranks vertical.  It will not work.  And yes, I’ve seen someone try this.  It resulted in a 10ft nose wheelie to tuck and roll over the bars.  Luckily the only thing damaged was his ego.

First Wheel Up

Pick the front wheel up.  Get you weight back over and behind the rear wheel axle, and pull the bars toward your chest.

Set Up The Pivot

Let the front wheel land on top of the log.  As it is falling down onto the log move your weight forward and prepare for the hop.

Up and Over

Now hop straight up, not forward!  Use the front wheel as a pivot point for the bike.  Suck your legs up to lift the rear wheel off the ground, rotating your wrists can help with this too.  You want the rear wheel to go over the log, so hop just high enough.  No need for a huge hop if the log is only 6″ around.  Extend your arms to push the bike out in front of you and over the log, keeping your weight to the rear, just in case the rear wheel hangs up on the log.  If your weight is forward and the rear wheel hits the log you might take one of those famous trips Over The Bars.

The rear tire might land on top of the log, or on the back side.  That’s fine, you’ll hardly even notice.  It’s also okay if it clears the log completely.  Generally, the faster you go, the more likely it’ll clear the log completely.

One more tip:  if you’re going fast, you’ll actually start to hop before your front wheel touches the log.  If you don’t you’ll hit your chainring… which doesn’t usually end well when you’re going fast.

Ride Away

Now just ride away in style, at the same speed you were before, and without hardly even feeling a bump.  But be nice – don’t laugh at your friends who had to stop and walk over the log.  It is okay to laugh at the guy who just bent a tooth on his $100+ XTR chainring though. 

Moving Pictures

Here’s the video all of the screen shots from above were pulled from.

So how do you feel about logs?  Love?  Hate?  Indifferent?  Tell us in the comments section below!

Big thanks to Tyler and David for help with the video.

NO BRUNCH!!!

We’ll come back to that in a minute…

If you’re reading this article chances are good you’ve heard your buddies raving about how awesome it is to ride at night or perhaps you want to check out 24 hour racing. Whatever the reason, you’re intrigued and you want to give real, “on purpose” night riding a try.

 photo credit: jp3d2k

As the days get shorter, night rides can be a great way to extend the season as long as the weather allows. Hitting the trails in complete darkness also creates a completely different viewpoint of the trail. While daytime lends to seeing the scenery and other big picture stuff, darkness narrows your focus to just what’s in the beam of your light. It becomes just you and the trail. Obstacles look different, the smells are more noticeable, and occasionally the night looks back at you…

Gearing up

Clothing: Once the sun drops, even if the ambient temperature says 60° or warmer, it will feel colder. The cold will be most noticeable in your extremities, so if you have some warmer gloves and shoes, you’ll want them. A vest or light jacket will round out your night-time clothing needs. It’s also a good idea to wear reflective clothing if you’ll be sharing part of your route with cars.

Eyewear: The first time I rode at night with decent lighting I was shocked at how much gravel my front tire kicked up! If your regular riding shades have clear or yellow lenses, you can use those. Otherwise look at getting some clear protective eyewear. Home Depot carries safety glasses in the $5 – $20 range or you can get modestly priced shooting glasses at sporting goods retailers.

 photo credit: xJason.Rogersx

Lights: A decent light is a must-have for serious after dark riding. The first few times I tried night riding I used a 70 lumen Princeton Tec head lamp that happened to snap into my helmet visor. I convinced myself it was good enough and I was able to muddle along the trail without killing myself. Later, when I raced in a 24 hour race for the first time, I borrowed two 350 lumens lights; one for my handlebars, and one on my helmet. I was blown away by the difference! Suddenly I could ride at full speed over technical terrain – in the middle of the night! The point is, for serious night riding, you need a serious light. The cycling light market has exploded recently, with advances in LED and battery tech making them brighter and more affordable than ever. Here are a handful of suggestions to get you started, but definitely ask around at the LBS and among other night riders. Like all things bike related, there are as many opinions as there are consumers.

Magic Shine 900.  This is the light I have and I love it. It’s under 100 bucks and mounts in seconds. My light has held up well and its 700 actual lumens are perfect as a single light for recreational riding. My only complaint is that when it’s helmet mounted it’s noticeably heavy and sticks up in a way that can snag on overhead branches. (It comes with a bar mount, helmet mount is an extra $10).

Spoke Grenade SG-1000. A little more money, a fair amount brighter. They also ding you for the helmet mount. Come on guys, really?

Amoeba. These are hand-made by a fellow mountain biker right here in Colorado. The light, battery, and charger will set you back $220, and it sticks to your helmet with velcro. He also sells car chargers, bar mounts and upgraded batteries, and he may even create a custom light for you if you have lots of money and a convincing personality. Several of my riding buddies have this model and its biggest advantage is how it mounts. It lays pretty much flat on your helmet (see photo left), with the light head in front and the battery in back for a compact and counterbalanced fit that won’t weigh you down or catch on branches. Brilliant!

Light & Motion Seca 1400. This is an example from the high end of the scale. It may cost $560, but picture the headlights from a German sports sedan mounted on your handlebars. Yeah, it’s that bright.

Whatever model you choose, if you get just one, you’ll want it on your helmet, so that it points where you’re looking. The ultimate setup is two lights, one on the bars and one on the helmet, but for non-racing use, one light in the 600+ lumen range is fine.

Although it’s not strictly necessary, a small tail light can be handy to prevent getting rear-ended if you stop suddenly. This model is small, inexpensive and mounts easily to a hydration pack or jersey pocket.

Choosing a trail

For your first ever night ride, you may not want to go on that black diamond gnar-fest that you shred during the day. Lights tend to flatten trail obstacles, making it hard to judge the height of drops and the size of rocks. Assume that every obstacle is bigger than it looks and practice riding by ‘feel’ until your eyes adjust to the way things look under the lights. Starting out with an easier trail that you know really well will help. Once you get more practice, head back to the technical stuff and go nuts.

One thing to keep in mind is that not every trail or park area is open at night. A lot of trails where I live are in county open space parks that close an hour after sunset. Park Rangers are usually ok with rides ending later than that, but they can and will write you a ticket for heading out after the park is closed. Just do a little research and make sure it’s legal.

That’s it! Put on some warm clothes, get a decent light, practice on some easy trails, and soon you’ll be a seasoned night rider. You might even find yourself preferring it over daytime riding!

Oh, as for that opening comment, enjoy this video about Ben Stiller’s first night mountain bike ride.

“What does mountain biking mean to you?”

This question is posed all the time in forums, blogs, videos, and magazines. It can be a tough question to answer because there are so many things that make mountain biking such a rewarding lifestyle. I know that for me, and for many of you, one of the most rewarding aspects of mountain biking is getting to enjoy some of the wilder, more unsullied places on the planet. There is something peaceful and pure in nature that speaks to us, that calms the spirit.

That blissful escape from the urban world is destroyed when you reach a scenic overlook only to find someone’s garbage lying on the ground.

Sometimes I hate people. This trail-side trash heap totally ruins the scenic beauty of this spot. Green Mountain, Blue Ridge, Georgia.

For me, this picture represents the beauty and grandeur of nature that I head out on the trail to find. Trail 401, Crested Butte, Colorado.

We can all help protect the majestic beauty of the mountains, forests, meadows, and deserts that we ride in by choosing to Leave No Trace.

LNT Mountain Biking

There are seven main principles of Leave No Trace outdoor ethics. In addition to just listing the main principles, I’ll add some of my thoughts on how it can be specifically applied to mountain biking:

1. “Plan Ahead and Prepare”

This is a good rule for any trip into the forest. Know where you’re going, what the area will be like, and pack everything you think you’ll need.

2. “Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces”

This is very important for mountain bikers! Ever heard the saying: “Keep singletrack single”? The trail is meant to be followed. If you don’t have the skills to ride a particular section of trail, don’t blaze your own trail around it. If you do it, someone else will follow your tire marks. Riding off the established trail accelerates erosion and degrades the purity of the singletrack experience.

Please, if you can’t handle the difficulty of a specific section of trail, just get off and walk.

3. “Dispose of Waste Properly”

Pack it in, pack it out. One of the things that inspired me to write this post in the first place was finding trash all over my local trail system after a recent race. Does it really take you that long to put your half-eaten gel packet back in your pocket? And if you can pack in an extra tube for when you get a flat tire, why can’t you pack your flat tube back out with you?

I picked up all of this trash in less than a quarter of a mile. Perhaps the water bottle was more “lost” instead of “tossed,” but the tube and sweat rag are unacceptable.

For other sorts of waste in the backcountry, I refer you to these directives from LNT.org:

• “Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished.”
• “Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.”
• “To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.”

4. “Leave What You Find”

If you want to take something from a natural environment, please just take a picture. Leave whatever you’re photographing there for everyone else to enjoy too!

5. “Minimize Campfire Impacts”

This really only applies to mountain bikers who are bikepacking, but please try to use preexisting fire rings.

6. “Respect Wildlife”

These ideas really apply to everyone at all times, including mountain bikers.

7. “Be Considerate of Other Visitors”

This is especially important for the mountain biking community. Learning to yield the trail properly to other users goes a long way towards amiable interactions with other user groups and trail access in the future. In case you aren’t aware, the technical rules of yielding are as follows:

• Hikers yield to horses.
• Mountain bikers yield to horses.
• Mountain bikers yield to hikers.
• The downhill rider yields to the uphill rider.

As we’ve discussed in a recent forum thread, this last one doesn’t always make the most sense. But when in doubt, stick to these guidelines, and it can help alleviate stress for everyone.

It Only Takes One

It only takes one person to ruin the purity of nature for everyone else by leaving trash on the ground, carving their initials in a tree, or spreading dirty toilet paper across the forest floor.

On the other hand, sometimes it only takes one person to pick that piece of trash up to restore the woods to its former natural glory.

Don’t be the first person… be the second.

What are your thoughts on Leave No Trace MTB ethics?

There’s a big race coming up.  You’ve spent weeks, or even months, preparing yourself, riding as much as possible, watching what you eat, and even ditching friends and family so you could train.  You are ready… or, at least as ready as you will be!  The last thing you want is a mechanical to put you out of the race, wasting all the hard work you’ve put into preparing for the race.  Here are some tips to make sure your bike is as ready to race as you are.

If you have to travel to race, be sure to take everything you need.  Make a list, check it twice.

“Success depends upon previous preparation, and without such preparation there is sure to be failure.”

While I’m not sure if Confucious really said that, I am sure it’s good advice.  Getting the bike ready starts long before the race, two or three weeks out actually.  You wouldn’t wait to do all of your training until the day before, would you?  So why wait to check the bike until the day before?  The night before a race is NOT the time to be doing major work on your bike!  Starting early will give you time to replace any worn parts (which you probably don’t have laying around and will have to order) and get them broken in before the race.  Here’s what you should look into:

Tires:  Check your tires for wear and damage.  Inspect the sidewalls and the tread, look for cuts, bulges, embedded debris, anything that could cause a failure.  If you’re not confident in a tire, replace it.

Brake Pads:  How much life is left in your brake pads?  Is it enough to get you through that 50 mile race if it rains?  Having an extra set to carry with you just in case isn’t a bad idea.  Brake pads are like toilet paper – there are nasty consequences for running out.

A tire failure can ruin your day in a bad way.  Make sure they’re up to the task.

Stans:  How long since you last topped off the sealant in your tubeless tires?  If you shake the wheel and don’t hear Stans splashing around inside, you need to add some more.

Drivetrain:  If your ride is shifting smooth, then great, move on.  If it’s not good, figure out why and get it fixed.  Take it to your favorite LBS and let them tune it up, replace what’s worn out (chain, cassette, cables, etc).  If you had to replace the cables, be glad you’re smart and got it done early.  Now you have time to break them in and get the initial “stretching” over with and get the system re-tuned so it’s running like a sewing machine on race day.

Hidden Dangers:  When was the last time you checked your chainring and cleat bolts?  Probably never, right?  Most of us never think about them.  Well now is the time to check – I’ve read too many race reports where someone lost one of these critical bolts and were not able to finish the race.  You don’t want to be That Guy.  (example:  3 days before the 50 mile Fools Gold my buddy Ross discovered that 2 of his chainring bolts were missing and another was loose!)

A well tuned and clean drivetrain goes a long way towards having a good day on the bike.

Final Prep

On the night before the race you need to get all of your stuff taken care of.  That way, the morning of the race you don’t have anything to do except get dressed and get to the start line.  Get your clothes laid out, food prepared and ready, pack your hydration pack with whatever tools you’re taking.  Here’s a good checklist for prepping your bike the night before:

Tire Pressure:  Get your tires aired up to whatever pressure you plan on using.

Drivetrain:  Wipe away as much dirt and grime as possible and re-lube your chain.  A smooth, quiet drivetrain goes a long way toward making you feel good on race day.

Hidden Dangers:  Check those chainring and cleat bolts one more time.

Check your cleat bolts!

Go Get Some

Alright, you’re ready – get some sleep, you’ll need it!  In the morning all you have to do is eat, fill up your bottles/hydration pack, get to the venue and put on your riding clothes.  Oh, and don’t forget to take that all important pre-race potty break!

I’m not sure if you know this, but Crested Butte is a long way from the Front Range of Colorado. It took us hours of driving (with a few stops thrown in) to make it to Crested Butte and we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening running various errands in town, finding a campsite, and setting up camp. We weren’t able to hit singletrack again until the next morning.

The Goblin at the campsite, just itching to get out and shred!

The next morning, the ladies were interested in hitting the singletrack too, so I picked out a nice, easy ride that would hopefully still be fun for all: The Lower Loop. This would be my sister-in-law’s first mountain bike ride ever, and my wife only rides once in a great while, so I wasn’t really sure how things would go. This ride did have several convenient bailout options in case they weren’t up to the challenge.

According to the map, the trails started on the opposite side of the Slate River from the access road. It was a pretty serious mountain river, so I was a little worried that our posse would get deterred from our singletrack goal before we ever actually saw it. Fortunately, when we reached the trailhead we saw a sturdy wooden bridge spanning the river that would keep us well above the snowmelt.

Getting ready to ride!

According to the guidebook I was using, this route would be 9.9 miles long with only 475 feet of climbing. That’s flat – most rides in Georgia have more climbing than that! We decided to get most of the elevation out of the way early with a quick climb up the Gunsight Pass Road to the Upper Lower Loop trail. Despite the confusing names, we ended up on the right piece of singletrack.

Andrew on the Upper Lower Loop trail.

Finally, we were riding singletrack! Our camp was set up, we had 4 full days ahead of us with no more serious driving to do, and it was time to enjoy the trails that we had driven over 1,500 miles to ride! And these trails were so worth the effort, too. The dirt was perfectly tacky and the singletrack undulated along the side of the mountain like a gently flowing stream. It wasn’t gentle enough to completely turn the brain off, though: rocky sections would crop up unexpectedly, ensuring that we paid sufficient attention to where we were going. But of course, they just served to make things more interesting! I rocketed along this true singletrack roller coaster with utter reckless abandon!

Despite the great trail, I was a little distracted. I’m used to riding singletrack in the deep forests of North Georgia where scenic views are a rarity. My entire local trail system has maybe 2 or 3 spots that are worth a pause. Riding in Crested Butte was entirely different! Save for the occasional stand of aspen trees, the trail ran through lush, green mountain meadows. The entire valley around the sinuous blue strand of the Slate River was colored in various shades of green and ringing it in were gray rocky peaks towering majestically over us small creatures and our wheels. The scene was truly phenomenal!

I stopped for a minute to take in the grandeur and shoot a couple photos when I realized that I had dropped everyone long ago. But in a minute, Andrew came pedaling up.

Sometimes I think that as advanced mountain bikers we sometimes take our skills for granted. I know I forget how challenging even relatively smooth singletrack can be to a beginner. As I waited for everyone else to catch up, I reminded myself to dial it back a little bit and just enjoy the trail and the company!

Mount Crested Butte in the distance.

As we approached the junction with the Lower Lower Loop trail, I spotted an option with a berm running into a little jump.

Despite the fact that I was riding a hardtail 29er, I had to at least give it a shot:

I couldn’t get the kind of pop I wanted off of such a small lip with such big wheels, but it was fun to try!

When we reached the big junction near the Lower Lower Loop trail, we realized that we had a number of different options. We found a wide, graveled doubletrack leading to town as well as a narrower, rockier section of singletrack. Naturally, I chose the singletrack.

After another mile or so of riding, we reached Peanut Lake Road, which would have taken us straight into town, but again we spotted another singletrack option off to the right. After a little more pedaling we had almost reached the town of Crested Butte, and trails began to branch off in all directions!

Crested Butte has its own little singletrack trail system attached directly to the west side of town with most every branch of trail dumping out on a different street. We dropped right off of the singletrack into a neat little neighborhood. I turned around and asked my wife, “Can we please buy that house?” as I pointed to a home that was literally 5 feet away from the beginning of the trail. How awesome would it be to have singletrack literally out your front door? Well, many of these houses do, and even if you live on the other side of town, you’re still less than 5 minutes of pedaling from the beginning of a trail. How cool is that?

Since we had pedaled all the way there, we decided to take a couple of minutes to cruise through downtown and check out some of the sights. I don’t want to go into it in too much detail in this post, but I don’t know if I’ve ever seen as many bicycles in one town as I saw in Crested Butte.

A couple of the more interesting bikes we found.

After cruising around for a little while, we decided to hit the trail back to the truck so we could get some lunch. The first section on the way back was a repeat of what we had just ridden, and the ladies decided to stick to the smoother, easier trail while we men busted down the singletrack.

As we reached the junction with the split off onto the Lower Lower Loop trail which we hadn’t ridden yet, I thought we would have to continue on doubletrack for a ways until I spotted a singletrack splitting off to the left. Andrew followed me and we rode down it for a ways, until I heard some yelling behind me. I turned around to see my wife yelling that we had gone the wrong way, despite the fact that I was pretty sure we were riding in the right direction. However, they revolted, and continued on down the doubletrack while Andrew and I headed up into the woods on the singletrack. Since we were all heading the same direction, I was pretty sure we could meet up quickly.

This amazing section of trail must not have been the a part of the main loop, as it was much narrower and a little more technical than anything we had ridden so far. The singletrack dove into a tight aspen grove, threading through narrow gaps in the trees. The dirt was wonderfully dark and tacky. Yes, dark is an understatement: this was absolutely gorgeous black dirt. Georgia has nothing approaching the blissful tackiness of the black dirt hidden amongst Colorado’s gray aspen trees!

After a little bit of climbing through the aspens, the trail popped out into an open field and turned back down towards the doubletrack, losing what elevation we’d gained in a wonderful rush of wildflowers and bermed turns. All too suddenly, it was over.

In a couple of minutes we were reunited with our wonderfully strong-headed women and we picked up the last section of singletrack. The remainder of the Lower Lower Loop trail was just as swoopy as the Upper Lower Loop, if not even more so, with fewer rocks to navigate. It was also much closer to the Slate River, offering up even more breathtaking scenery that kept our eyes off the trail where they should have been.

We were almost done with our ride when I led us the wrong direction up an unwanted detour on the “Boy Scout Trail,” which climbed steeply along the side of a waterfall. After having already ridden 10 miles at 9,000 feet , my sister in law had put in a respectable effort for her first mountain bike ride ever, and she was very ready to be done! When the trail got seriously steep I was pretty sure that this climb wasn’t a part of the plan, and with the help of the map and my GPS I guided us back down the mountain and out to our truck… the right way this time.

Our first ride in Crested Butte had been quite an adventure, and it was just the first of many!

Do you remember the first time you saw someone riding a singlespeed (SS) mountain bike?  I bet your first thought was “what do they think they’re doing out here without any gears?  Don’t they know they have to ride up hills?”  I also bet you were immensely confused when they rode away from you on a climb – I know I was!  After my first SS encounter I walked away with the conclusion that you must have to be a beast to ride a SS MTB – I mean, it’s gotta be really hard, right?  I’m going to let you in on a secret:  singlespeeding isn’t nearly as difficult as you think.  Heck, I rode almost exclusively on a SS for over a year, and trust me – I’m not that strong.

I wanted to do a post that might convince some of you to give singlespeeding a try for yourselves.  There are already tons of blog and forum posts on the interweb about the benefits of SSing (light, simple, quiet, builds strength, etc.) so I decided to do something a little different.  I lent my 29er singlespeed to five non-singlespeed riding buddies to get their thoughts.  These guys and gal are normal riders, they’re not slow, but not that fast either.  They might do a race or two every year for fun, but they primarily ride because they enjoy it.  That’s what it’s all about after all!

My bike, a Vassago Jabberwocky.  25.16lbs of steel-framed, one-geared, big-wheeled goodness.  And yeah, it’s got a bell. 

Rider #1 – BrianW

STATS Age: 40 | Years Riding: 19 | My Bike:  Giant Yukon (hardtail, 26″ wheels, aluminum frame)

Thoughts on the singlespeed:

Within the first 2 minutes on the Keg Creek trail I was reaching for phantom shifters. The one thing that I noticed and could get used to was how quiet a singlespeed is. Just the tires on the dirt. Never knew how noisy the derailleurs were. Also seemed like as soon as I pushed down on the pedal there was power, no delay at all.

I was worried about two climbs: the first one, going up Boulder Creek, was a lot easier than I expected. On the steep rooty climb just after the “Bed Rock” crossing I managed to go up half way before losing momentum and walking the last portion. To be honest though, I struggle up this one even with a geared bike. Long ascents were not as bad – I got off the saddle a bit more than I normally would. Overall the climbs were not as bad as I thought they would be. I am also certain that given a few weeks on a singlespeed that the climbs would be a non-issue. It did seem that you needed to go a certain speed or cadence or else you might be walking.

The downside that I noticed was on long downhills – I wanted to put it into a higher gear to get more speed. Eventually I overcame this by picking up the cadence.  I also rode a section of paved road from Keg to Bartram (in Wildwood) to see how I would like it. Again I was reaching for phantom shifters. And again I had to overcome by picking up the cadence. I believe over time these problems would be non-issues.

Overall I did not miss the gears and the quietness of a singlespeed trumped the few times I really wished I had them.

Less (complexity, noise, weight, parts, maintenance) is more (fun).

Rider #2:  David K.

STATS – Age:  43 | Years Riding:  3.5 | My Bike:  ’09 Cannondale Rize Carbon 1 (carbon/aluminum framed 5″ travel full suspension bike, carbon Lefty fork, 26″ wheels)

The ride: Rode at FATS – Skinny (ccw) -> Brown Wave (ccw) -> Great Wall (cw)
20.2 miles. 1:58 riding time (surprisingly, not slower than on my geared FS bike)
Met Paul F. in parking lot and we decided to ride together. He rode behind. I always ride faster/push a little harder with someone behind me. I rode every hill without stopping; even the 2-mile climb out of Great Wall (cw).

The experience:

• Several new variables with this bike: single speed, 29er, hard tail.
• Frame might be too big, stem too long, and seat too far back. Overall though, it wasn’t a bad fit.
• Never stood and pedaled so much out of the saddle (i.e., climbing). On geared bike, I just sit and spin most/all hills.
• Quiet. Although, not due to lack of gears but the lack of chain slap (I could hear the chain slapping on Paul’s bike).
• Going up hills was not nearly as punishing as I feared (I was very surprised). However, not sure if it was the SS, 29er wheels, or the knowledge that if I didn’t get enough speed or pound hard enough I would get stuck? Knowing that there isn’t an easier gear available is a great motivator for hills.
• I’m not that fast downhill so needing/wanting a higher gear wasn’t an issue for me.
• It’s hard to qualify but, once rolling, there seemed to be more power to the wheels (lack of RD?) and more momentum when coasting (29er tires?).
• Actually, I think some climbs might have been easier than on my geared FS bike.
• I tried to shift with the dingle bell a few times (subconscious thumb movement).
• Riding a single speed/hard tail probably makes you a better/stronger rider: standing and pedaling out of saddle, focusing on technique during turns or watching the trail ahead to maintain speed/momentum.
• Here is a shocker: If I had extra money, I would think about getting a SS 29er. Mostly as a “penance” bike for the day after a bad ride or when I bag a ride due to laziness. No cheating hills with a single speed.
• Won’t give up my geared FS bike, but I can see where a SS might be nice to have for more variety (i.e., switching up trails and bikes) or for training.
• A few times (long, slight uphill grade, seated) getting the bike rolling faster felt like moving a ton of bricks (might be that my legs were getting tired).
• Most of the time though, once the bike was rolling, it kept rolling.
• Really impressed at how (relatively) painless it was to stand and pedal those hills. I wouldn’t have guessed.
• My casual observations have been that most folks start off with a hard tail, move to a full suspension and, if they’ve caught the fever, eventually get a singlespeed.  Never thought of myself progressing to the third stage but this ride has me thinking.

No shifters makes for a simple, clean, uncluttered cockpit.

Rider #3:  Tom Z.

STATS – Age:  44 | Years Riding:  10 | My Bike:  2001 Gary Fisher Tassajara  (hardtail, 26″ wheels, steel frame)

I don’t know why I was so surprised at how much I enjoyed my trial singlespeed ride.  After all, I spent the first 13 – 14 years of my life riding a singlespeed bike.  And we rode everywhere then – through woods, fields, in the clay pit behind my house.  Gears were something your mom had on her bike – a 3-speed cruiser.  You were a sissy if you had a 10-speed (which the rest of us were secretly envious of).

So I chose the Turkey Creek Trail to ride as it is representative of 75 – 80% of the riding I do.  It really didn’t take long to get accustomed to not having shifters.  Maybe because I have been struggling with rear derailleur issues for so long, but it felt very liberating to ride without gears.  The ride was definitely quieter.  Yes, I had to come out of the saddle a few times more that I normally would have.  I didn’t realize how dependent I had become on a geared bike – down shifting out of habit in the face of an obstacle rather than powering over or up it.  The trail was very trashy from recent storms – a lot of trees and limbs down to climb over and around.  Despite that, I thought my ride time was pretty good – 55 minutes in (7 miles) and about 5 minutes less out.  On this trail, I found myself wanting a higher gear more often than a lower one.  If I was slower than normal, I think it was on the flat and downhill sections when I normally would have pushed into a higher gear.

The bottom line is, now that I have a new geared bike (3 x 10), I convinced myself to convert my old bike to SS.  I’m looking forward to riding it on some more challenging trails.  Maybe my opinions will change when I have to do more climbing.  Hopefully I will get stronger.

Trent rode the SS with platform pedals.  Photo:  Trent S.

Rider #4:  Trent S.

STATS – Age: 34 | Years Riding: 10+ | My Bike:  2011 Specialized Camber Elite 29er (full suspension 29er)

First impressions @ Skinny – like most of the trails at FATS, Skinny starts with a long section of downhill and very, very quickly (within 50 yards of the parking lot) I ran out of spinning speed.  I love going fast, so not being able to do so under my own pedal-power was frustrating at first.  I caught myself trying to pedal a few times where I clearly couldn’t match my rolling speed.  After I accepted the fact that gravity and a light touch on the brakes would dictate my top speed, I got into it.

The first thing I noticed was that instead of barreling down the trail like I do on my 29er FS and grabbing handfuls of brakes moments before potential disasters at big hits or sharper-than-expected turns, I was rolling at a more leisurely speed and found myself enjoying setting up jumps and smoothly carving through corners.  Sure the overall pace of the ride was slower, but it ended up being more enjoyable.  Later in the ride, I also seemed to have more energy than normal.  It could be attributable to knowing I needed to beat the rain back to the Jeep, but I like to think that it was due to the single speed.  Normally I like rolling along in the big ring, pushing hard gears.  With the single speed, I had no choice but to enjoy the ride at a more leisurely pace and it saved my legs for the uphill battle back to the parking lot.  Normally at that point, my quads are starting to feel it and there are a few hills I dread.  Now, even though I was climbing in a tougher gear than I’d normally try to attempt, I had some reserves that pushed me through the steep spots.

I was riding platform pedals again.  If the Jabberwockey’s geometry were a little different, it’d be a lot like riding my old BMX through the woods.

@ Canal trail – Again, a single speed is best in the woods.  It felt really slow riding through the neighborhood on the way to the trail.  Reminds me of when I was a kid riding a BMX.  The easiest thing to do is stand up, pedal as fast as you can for a few moments, then cruuuuise….and repeat.  Once on the canal trail…well, I was concentrating more on getting back to the house in time for Stacey to pick me up for our trip to Beaufort to really notice many differences…except a whole new respect for single speed riders who fly through the woods.  Don’t know how they do it.  There are so many spots on the trail where you could really pick up some speed, but I didn’t manage to do that.  Maybe I’ll try again with clipless pedals.

Bottom line – I’d love to have one.  As a second bike.

Rider #5:  Stacey W.

STATS: Age:  30 | Years Riding:  2.5 | My Bike:  Giant XTC2 (hardtail, 26″ wheels, aluminum frame)

The advantage of riding the single speed on a trail that I’m familiar with allowed me to anticipate and better prepare for the climbs.  For instance, when a tight turn came just before a climb (knowing I couldn’t drop it down a gear to make the climb easier), I didn’t wimp out by squeezing the brakes.  I kept all the momentum I could, went wider and leaned harder into the turns, which is what I should be doing anyway!  It’s good “basic training” and brought me back to the fundamentals of riding (momentum, shifting weight etc).

The workout was more intense and I enjoyed the exertion I felt afterwards. I’d love to have a single speed for a second bike!

Stacey enjoying the ride to the trail.  Photo:  Trent S.

Told You So!

As you can see, everyone enjoyed riding the singlespeed, even if they didn’t think they would.  The proof is in the pudding they say, so here’s my proof:  BrianW, David, Tom, and maybe even Trent are all converting their old bikes to singlespeeds.

Keep an eye on the Singletracks blog – soon I’ll have a Tech How-To post showing you how to convert your own bike to a singlespeed!  It’s a cheap way to try SSing without buying a whole new bike, it’s easy, and it is a great way to get your old bike out of the garage and back on the trails again.

Thanks to Brian, David, Tom, Trent, and Stacey for trying the bike and taking the time to write up their thoughts on it.

What do YOU think about SS MTBing?  Ever tried it?  Tell us what you think in the comments section.

Have you been watching the Tour de France? Are you seeing what those spandex-clad fellas are getting themselves into? Dozens of hungry looking guys with really bad tan lines tossing themselves onto the asphalt at 50 mph with naught but some stretchy fabric and garishly-colored styrofoam beanies to keep their insides inside. They accept the risks of pursuing their passion as we do. The main difference is that when we hit the trails (and sometimes when we hit the trails) we’re on our own. No support car, no camera crew, no guy dressed up like a devil capering on the sidelines.

So there you are: out on the dirt with a ration of hurt. It could be you or your bike, but as we all know when things heat up and the trails get rough, all sorts of carnage can occur. An errant stick kicks up into your spokes and you’ve suddenly got a very expensive single speed. You went into that turn a little too hot, lost grip on the front wheel, and performed a spontaneous verification of gravitational consistency (you fell your ass down). All the myriad things that can happen when you’re way out in the wilderness should get you thinking about a plan for getting yourself back out with a minimum of drama. So like the Boy Scouts say: “Be Prepared.”

PART 1: Fix the bike

Much of the following depends on  your specific bike, so the more you know about how to work on your rig and the various parts, the better. I’ll simply list the tools, spares, and doodads I carry when I’m out on my 26″ hardtail.

A. 2 spare 26″ inner tubes (I never hesitate to carry this extra weight, since I’ve had more than one ride where I got two flats). If you’ve got tubeless I’d still recommend carrying a tube since, you know, sharp things are everywhere.

B. Patch kit. In addition to the two tubes I always carry a patch kit. The old school kind with glue, sandpaper and patches. Remember: if you don’t know how to use the patches they’re pretty useless on the side of the trail. Ask Sheldon Brown about it, you’ll get more info than you ever knew existed about tires, tubes, and wacky beards. If you’ve never heard of Sheldon Brown, well, shame on you.

C. Multi-tool. My latest favorite is a Topeak Hexus for a few reasons: it has a Torx head for disc rotor bolts, it has a chain breaker, since getting rad sometimes gets chains busted, and it also has a little curve of wire attached to the chain tool that blew my mind. The wire holds the two ends of a broken chain together so you can use the chain tool to rejoin the ends. Huzzah!

D. Tire levers. The Topeak Hexus is doubly sweet since it incorporates tire levers into the body of the tool.

E. Zip ties. Or if you’re from north of the border, Zap straps. That one always cracks me up, eh?

F. Master link. Chainpocalypse? No problemo, just use your chain tool to pop out the bad link and click it back together with this handy little fella. Remember to get the corresponding speed correct; 9 speed link for a 9 speed chain, 10 speed link if you’re one of those fancy rich dudes.

G. 2 hex bolts for clipless pedal cleats if you ride them. Seriously, you’ll never need these until you don’t have them. And they’re so small, just throw them in a dime bag tiny zip lock baggy for a rainy day.

H. Tire pump. There are tons on the market, find one you like and always have it. But remember this: no mini pump was designed for heavy use so don’t use it as your primary pump every time you’re heading out for a ride. I think it was BikeSnob who said that owning a quality floor pump is one of the things that separates actual cyclists from people who occasionally ride bikes. I concur.

The author’s best side. Photo credit to Brian McKinney

Part 2: Fix your broke ass

A. Bring plenty of water. A simple rinsing of the affected area is a great start to the healing process. Plus you’ll be hydrated and ready to get to the trailhead (or landing zone for the Medivac).

B. A clear head. One of the most valuable things I learned in survival training (yes, I actually did this) was “If you need to panic, get it out of the way, then get down to business.” Take stock of the situation and make the right decisions, don’t just spaz out because you’ve got a little boo boo.

C. Ride with a buddy. The probability of you and your bro breaking yourselves at the same time is menudo. He or she will be the one to ride out for help if your ride goes seriously pear shaped. Reward them with beer once you get out of the ICU. And not Bud either, the good stuff.

D. You’ll notice I’m not recommending you ride prepared with gauze, band-aids, antibacterial ointment and an air cast. Let’s face it; grams are important to those who want to tear it up. More important than a first aid kit in your Camelback, all you really need is common sense. Don’t get in over your head – let someone know where you’re riding and for how long, bring a friend, and don’t get (too) stupid.

None of these silly points of advice replace a sound mind and good judgement. It’s simply a mildly entertaining blog post with a few goofy internet pictures and some half baked ideas from a guy who barely avoids getting run down in traffic. Good luck out there and remember: chicks dig scars but you’ve got to stay alive to reap the benefits of their attention.

Mountain biking the Bookcliffs area near Fruita, CO.

“I’m just glad to be out here instead of sitting at home on the couch eating ice cream and watching TV.”  This is what a 60+ year old told me on the Left Loop at the Tsali bike trail in Western North Carolina.  Made sense to me.  So we all have a choice as we age. Work to stay active and in good health or develop an inactive lifestyle that leads to poor health.  What if you could find an activity that is more fun than a video game on steroids, smell the fresh air, see nature in all its natural beauty while getting the best cardio exercise any gym could ever offer? At age 65 I discovered mountain biking and immediately became hooked.

Slickrock trailhead in Moab.

My wife, Bonnie and I were driving back from an extended snow ski vacation out west and the thought occurred to me that I really needed to find a new exercise activity since I had given up jogging due to knee cartilage problems. A friend who had started mountain biking some years earlier had previously recommended it as a great sport. So my wife and I discussed the pros and cons and decided to buy entry level bikes and give it a try.

I had ridden bikes as a kid – living in a rural area, the bike was my main mode of transportation to a friend’s house or to the ball field. So in my mind bikes were for kids and besides, those guys I saw on the side of the street on bicycles in sissy tight pants, Chinese fireworks shirts, and Star Wars helmets definitely did not seem to fit my style. But we got the bikes and helmets anyway – that’s all I could stomach in the beginning.

We rode the paved trail at the Flatwoods Park in Tampa, FL as a starter. Bonnie wanted to stay with the paved and hardpacked surface trails, but I wanted to try the singletrack trails to see what it was like.  As it turned out my first experience on a true mountain bike trail was at Panther Town Valley near Cashiers, North Carolina. We were visiting the  area with some friends and I had brought our bikes along for the trip. So a friend and I bought a trail map at the local outdoor store, drove to the trailhead and headed out like any pro biker would.  I remember going downhill leaving the trailhead, going faster and faster, the adrenaline rushing and thinking “man oh man this is really a lot of fun!”  We proceeded to get totally lost on the trail (no markings), ended up going in a big circle and amazingly found ourselves back at the trailhead start. But the big story was – I was totally hooked on mountain biking after this.

Lock 4 trail in Tennessee.

So 2 years later and lots of bike trail rides I can recommend to any senior looking for a great sport – give mountain biking a try. You can choose your own pace and trail difficulty and advance at your own leisure.

The vast majority of mountain biking videos shot with point-of-view cameras really aren’t worth the time it takes to watch them. Despite the access to excellent equipment, there are 2 main reasons for this poor video quality:

1) Unimaginative camera angles.

2) Poor editing.

Hopefully in my last post I was able to provide you with enough camera mounting ideas to get your creative juices flowing, helping you leave behind the same old overused camera mounts.

In this post, I will address the second point, “poor editing,” and will hopefully help you add a little zest to your trail videos.

Software

Whenever I mention to people that I just uploaded a new video or I’m in the process of making a new video, the first question is always: “What program did you use to edit it?” The thing of it is, I just use Windows Movie Maker to edit my videos, and it comes standard on most Windows computers. Even with this basic program I am able to produce decent mountain bike videos that I think are actually enjoyable to watch.  iMovie works even better.

Sure, a fancy video editing package has more options and might be able to do a slightly better job. But as Jeremy Hazard, pro-level photographer and accomplished videographer, commented on the last post: “I think some people miss the point a bit – POV cams are for just that – they’re not intended to capture high quality footage for use in major motion pictures  ” This is all about having fun and creating entertaining videos, and that can definitely be done with an inexpensive editing program.

Purpose

As with any production that borders on the artistic, you must first identify your purpose before you begin. Are you trying to showcase the trail? Are you trying to showcase the rider’s abilities? Or are you just attempting to create an entertaining bike video that’s sort of original? Your purpose will determine how you cut the video.

In my opinion, the major editing error that most helmet cam vids  make is the absolute lack of editing. Those long, continuous 10 minute shots bore me to death! The only time one really long shot for the entire length of the video works is if your sole purpose is to showcase the trail. Even then, if the trail is boring and has some climbs in it, that might still be a bad idea!

Here is a video where I used one long clip, and my purpose was to just show how sweet this entire downhill is:

Cut the Climbing

As a general rule of thumb, when I’m editing, I begin by cutting out all of the climbing. People only want to watch the really interesting parts of your ride, and if you’re grinding uphill for 10 minutes (or even 15 seconds), they are going to get bored. Clip out the climbing.

Since the whole shot (above) is downhill and it’s pretty fast-paced and only a couple of minutes long, I think it still works pretty well. However, bear in mind that if you create a video showcasing a single section of a trail like this, the number of people that will want to watch the video is probably less than if you created a vid featuring cool riding and shooting, unless the trail is truly outstanding.

Camera Angles

Yes, I know that I’ve already spent about a thousand words talking about camera angles. Now’s the time to take what you’ve learned, and apply it. Take all of those different camera angles and incorporate at least 2 or 3 different ones into your next video. And don’t just use one, switch to the second, and then switch to the third at the end. Try varying them throughout the video, utilizing multiple short clips instead of just a few long ones.

Check out this video for a little idea of what the finished product could look like:

Transitions

One thing that annoys the heck out of me when I am watching a mountain bike vid is a large number of cheesy, overdone transitions. A few key transition effects can really make a video pop, but when someone tries to incorporate every single feature that their software package has into one 3 minute video…. it looks cheesy, and distracts from the riding.

Personally, I generally stick with fade in/fade out transitions (black and white), and a simple dissolve. Sometimes, I even incorporate hard cuts from one clip to another. Break the thinking that you need a different transition whenever there’s a new video clip, and you will be well on your way to editing success.

Music

Nothing spells “boring” like a music-less sports video. Music should almost be considered mandatory, unless you’re just posting a raw 30-60 second clip. Music keeps the viewer entertained and engaged, and can add real life to your movie!

When selecting the song that you want to use, trying to choose music that you think your target audience will enjoy may help boost the popularity of your video. However, in my personal experience, there is no way that you can ever satisfy everyone. So instead, I suggest that you choose something that you enjoy. As long as you like your video and are proud of your work, that’s mission accomplished in my book!

Your Turn:

What editing tactics do you think really make a mountain bike video come to life?